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Official JVC DLA-RS46 / DLA-X35 owners thread - Page 43

post #1261 of 2067
I have a 1.1gain 106" 16:9 screen and it's time to upgrade the projector smile.gif. I'm not a gamer and don't like 3D. Primary use will be 50/50 HDTV / movies. I have a light controlled room but prefer some light when watching sports. I need to mount the projector 16.5' from the screen. Should the RS46 be the only one to look at? I'm coming from higher end (8 yrs ago, anyway) DLP with a very sharp picture. Will I be happy with the sharpness of the JVC?
post #1262 of 2067
Quote:
Originally Posted by mbroder View Post

I have a 1.1gain 106" 16:9 screen and it's time to upgrade the projector smile.gif. I'm not a gamer and don't like 3D. Primary use will be 50/50 HDTV / movies. I have a light controlled room but prefer some light when watching sports. I need to mount the projector 16.5' from the screen. Should the RS46 be the only one to look at? I'm coming from higher end (8 yrs ago, anyway) DLP with a very sharp picture. Will I be happy with the sharpness of the JVC?

The JVC has a good lens and provides a sharp image, but you might want to step up the the RS4910. The 4910 gets you 4K E-shift, 3 year warranty, accepts 4K input and a full CMS. Those are big plusses over a 46. Please call us for preorder pricing.
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post #1263 of 2067
Sounds good, but above the budget.
post #1264 of 2067
Quote:
Originally Posted by Craig Peer View Post

Not that I know of. However, I plan on spending time this week comparing the HD Pro 1.3 engineering samples to my StudioTek 130, and the HD Pro 1.1 to my Cima Neve 1.1. Just for fun !! I'll let you know what I think.
Sweet! I look forward to hearing your thoughts.
post #1265 of 2067
I'm also interested in your findings. smile.gif

Thanks
post #1266 of 2067
How does the x35 handle motion on fast action scenes in movies and sports on broadcast TV?
post #1267 of 2067
Anyone?
post #1268 of 2067
Quote:
Originally Posted by mijotter View Post

How does the x35 handle motion on fast action scenes in movies and sports on broadcast TV?

Not as good as a DLP. When I watch basketball I usually enable the CMD and a few notches less of AP. I find that the CMD smooths out the fast motion quite well. It introduces the SOE (Soap Opera Effect) immediately so not great for regular TV or movies. It's easy enough to create user profiles and then you can discretely select these UP's via various remote control methods.
post #1269 of 2067
Thanks. Anyone else with their opinions?
post #1270 of 2067
I'm sure it depends on the settings, the signal path and any other gear and the processing that occurs as well as what each person's personal tolerances are. That being said... I watch sports on my RS46 all the time and I don't find it problematic for my eyes.
post #1271 of 2067
Good to know. Trying to decide between the JVC x35 and the Panasonic ae8000 and I can't do it! lol. Has anyone noticed any annoying noises coming from the x35? The Panasonic seems to have a high pitched whining noise. How loud would the JVC get in normal?
post #1272 of 2067
In normal lamp, non high altitude mode, the 46 is whisper quiet. I sat with it 3ft from my head and never could hear it. I also agree the motion handling isn't bad at all, they've come along way since the RS1. And CMD is great for sports and video games.
post #1273 of 2067
Quote:
Originally Posted by mijotter View Post

Good to know. Trying to decide between the JVC x35 and the Panasonic ae8000 and I can't do it! lol. Has anyone noticed any annoying noises coming from the x35? The Panasonic seems to have a high pitched whining noise. How loud would the JVC get in normal?

Have you seen this thread? http://www.avsforum.com/t/1449508/help-me-choose-jvc-rs46-vs-panasonic-ae-8000

What are your priorities/preferences and what is causing you to struggle with the decision? Is it a particular feature, $$$...???
post #1274 of 2067
Quote:
Originally Posted by walterappleby View Post

Have you seen this thread? http://www.avsforum.com/t/1449508/help-me-choose-jvc-rs46-vs-panasonic-ae-8000

What are your priorities/preferences and what is causing you to struggle with the decision? Is it a particular feature, $$$...???

2D movie picture quality is numero uno along with lens memory.

Motion capture with sports is second.

So you can see my dilemma. According to everything i've read, the JVC is better at 2D movie watching and the Panny better with sports motion capture. But I think neither one is bad in either of these areas as well.

Room is a dedicated HT with 100% light control. Dark gray walls and ceiling and black carpet.

Honestly I started my HT build solely for the purpose of finally watching HD movies on a big screen with surround sound. The sports motion capture just popped up recently when my wife decides she wants direct tv now and wants to host the Super Bowl.

On a side note the gaming lag, does that refer to games played online? Or gaming in general even if it's an old N64 or a Wii?
post #1275 of 2067
Thoughts Please?
post #1276 of 2067
Having owned several projectors and installed more that I've had a long-term chance to see firsthand the long-term pictures they throw their is Nothing the Panasonic does that puts it ANYWAY way close to the Jvc . They are not that compareable picture wise at all.
post #1277 of 2067
Quote:
Originally Posted by mijotter View Post

Thoughts Please?
JVC all the way...no contest here .
post #1278 of 2067
Even sensitive to RBE, I'll take a DLP over Panny ( or Epson, owned several in the past of both brands) any time. My favorites are still JVC and Sony.

Have fun shopping.
post #1279 of 2067
Had my RS46 for just under a month now, and I'm very happy with it. I've been playing with 3D over the last couple of nights, and overall haven't been that impressed...

I'm not seeing much in the way of crosstalk, so that's not my concern, it's more that I'm not seeing any 3D much at all either. Before anyone asks, yes I am sure that I have the glasses paired and turned on correctly!

I'm wondering exactly what the Parallax setting in the menu is for. I've tried playing with this, and found that it increases the distance apart of each view (at least that's how it appears when you take off the glasses). When parallax is set to 0, it seems that the image is fine without glasses on, in fact it's basically 2D.

The more I think about 3D, the more it seems that the size of the screen will be very critical in terms of the distance apart of the two views. If the content was mastered on a 42" screen, and we then play it back on an 84" screen, the distance between the two views will be doubled! Perhaps this is the purpose of the parallax control?

I'm going to do some more research tonight about this, but I'm wondering if anyone can elaborate on the reasons and action of the parallax control.
post #1280 of 2067
So I sent my rs46 in for the 3D ghosting repair over a month and a half ago. The part is back ordered, I guess from Japan. No ETA for the repair. Has anyone been through this with JVC? Would they consider replacing the projector if they cannot fix it?
post #1281 of 2067
Quote:
Originally Posted by nezil View Post

Had my RS46 for just under a month now, and I'm very happy with it. I've been playing with 3D over the last couple of nights, and overall haven't been that impressed...

I'm not seeing much in the way of crosstalk, so that's not my concern, it's more that I'm not seeing any 3D much at all either. Before anyone asks, yes I am sure that I have the glasses paired and turned on correctly!

I'm wondering exactly what the Parallax setting in the menu is for. I've tried playing with this, and found that it increases the distance apart of each view (at least that's how it appears when you take off the glasses). When parallax is set to 0, it seems that the image is fine without glasses on, in fact it's basically 2D.

The more I think about 3D, the more it seems that the size of the screen will be very critical in terms of the distance apart of the two views. If the content was mastered on a 42" screen, and we then play it back on an 84" screen, the distance between the two views will be doubled! Perhaps this is the purpose of the parallax control?

I'm going to do some more research tonight about this, but I'm wondering if anyone can elaborate on the reasons and action of the parallax control.
My Oppo Blu Ray player has a 3D setting where I tell it exactly how large my screen is. Could that have something to do with it? I've always left the parallax in the default position, I've just found moving one way or another either creates crosstalk or moves the crosstalk around.

Also what content have you viewed on it so far in 3D?
post #1282 of 2067
Well I've just finished doing some tests, and frankly, I have no idea what was happening last night when I was having issues. Tested this evening with Coraline, Brave and Despicable Me, and all worked flawlessly.

I think the issues was either TMT was set to 2D, the Panasonic 3D glasses that I was using were set to 2D, or Nvidia 3D Vision was set to off. Any one of these things could have caused the problem, but I'm sort of surprised I didn't notice that last night.

All's well that ends well I guess.

Still interested to know what the Parallax setting is for if anyone knows.
post #1283 of 2067
Quote:
Originally Posted by nezil View Post

Well I've just finished doing some tests, and frankly, I have no idea what was happening last night when I was having issues. Tested this evening with Coraline, Brave and Despicable Me, and all worked flawlessly.


Still interested to know what the Parallax setting is for if anyone knows.

It fixes ghosting/seeping images on certain 3D files... if you play a 3D image and pause it, then play with the setting, you will see what it does... for most things I find the neutral setting to be the best. Some downloaded SBS 3D videos, it does seem to improve.
post #1284 of 2067
What is the best way to calibrate black levels? Is there a certain calibration disc? I would need/want something to reference. Just want to make sure my calibrations are as accurate as they can be.

Also, if anyone would care to share their calibration as a foundation for my own I would appreciate it. You can PM me if you wish. Never owned a projector in my life.
post #1285 of 2067
I'm actually in the same situation as you. Knowone really ever posted their full calibration on here but just the regular basics.

For some odd reason I think my projector is performing way lower then it can and it's driving me nuts.

I know the 46 does not have cms so paying 450 for a calibration really that worth it or should I buy a setup myself
post #1286 of 2067
People don't usually post their calibration settings because they aren't worth copying due to all the variables in lamps, projectors, ancillary equipment and of course environment. Plus in my case I use an external video processor for CMS and detailed greyscale/gamma calibration.

However, you have access to the free AVS HD709 disc, which you burn to DVD blank, but then it should play as an AVC HD disc (ie as if it were a BluRay). It has basic patterns with flashing bars to set the brightness (flashing black bars) and contrast (flashing white bars).

This is the thread, which I also suggest reading the first few posts and the instructions which should tell you all you need to know. Without a meter you can' really adjust any more than the brightness and contrast IMHO, but ensuring these are set correctly makes a big difference.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/948496/avs-hd-709-blu-ray-mp4-calibration

If it helps these settings should at least prevent you from being wildly out of calibration, but my above comments still stand:

HDMI to 'Normal'( to clip white above 235, Superwhite if you wish to go to 254 for some reason, I don't recommend 'Enhanced' though some do use it).

Colourspace 'Standard' (should be closer to rec709 than 'Wide' or 'Off' which will cause grossly oversaturated colours).

Sharpness and detail to 0 (or use test patterns to confirm anything above this doesn't cause noise or ringing; higher values also effects motion in my experience).

All the noise reduction settings to zero (unless you like a soft image), likewise any of the 'advanced' settings that I can't think of right now.

Hope that helps.
post #1287 of 2067
JVC RS46 or Panasonic AE8000?

I'm looking for a projector that has lens memory for my 136" 2.35 screen in a pitch black room. I'm coming from a Panasonic AE7000 which I had a few issues (blob, flicker, real bad 3D). I'm debating the RS46 vs AE8000. I'm still working on getting fully caught up on this thread but I'm getting less excited over the JVC the more I read. I also think I may feel the same way after I start reading the 8000 thread.

With the JVC, I'm a bit concerned with the smearing issue (most noticeable on text), the ringing sound some notice and also the dimness that a lot seem to complain about. If I get another Panasonic, I'm worried about flicker, dust blobs etc...

Anyone here switch from a AE7000 or AE8000? Anyone have experience with both the AE8000 and RS46?

biggrin.gif
Edited by Dreamliner - 10/27/13 at 7:27pm
post #1288 of 2067
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Edited by v8888v - 11/19/13 at 4:46pm
post #1289 of 2067
I've installed a few JVC projectors and 2~3 of the Pann.8000's and their not that close in real life conditions . The JVC has a much better pic and the Pannay is not that much lower in price if you look around.....[tongue.gif:cool:;)Talk to Mike {avs5} here on the forum,you may be pleasently suprised!!!]
post #1290 of 2067
I have 3 questions I'm hoping current owners can address:
1) I've read some reviews note a 'screen door' effect in bright scenes. If I sit 13' away from a 136" 2.35 image, will I see this?
2) Some reviews have noted dither noise, is this very noticeable?
3.) How warm does the surface on the side of the projector with the lamp get? (cool, warm, hot to touch)?

My AE7000 had no screen door effect more than 4 feet away...it was pretty great. Also, there wasn't any added 'noise' that I saw in the image...just curious, as I've never owned a JVC before.
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