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Official JVC DLA-RS46 / DLA-X35 owners thread - Page 51

post #1501 of 2067
Quote:
Originally Posted by petercw2 View Post

Anyone else has been trying out a PS4 on their RS46?

I've experienced no "lag", but what I have noticed is that the professional calibration settings for watching BluRay, etc seems VERY dark and flat for gaming. The settings that make my image look so wonderfully natural for video/BR, just seems to be lacking for graphics.

Was just wondering if anyone else has found some good alternate settings to switch over to when gaming versus BR?

Also, does anyone have suggestions on the best video output settings for the PS4? (yes, I did look over at the PS4 forum too)...

thanks!

what settings have you tried on the ps4?
I don't have one, but I've got a ps3 and 360 hooked up to mine, and I've had almost the complete opposite experience. the lag is noticeable(but not enough to stop me from playing 99% of games), and the video settings work equally well for movies and games.

i'm thinking there's probably a setting on the ps4 that is turned on, or not turned on that doesn't match your projectors settings. the only things I can think of off the top of my head is if there's a 'darkness' setting, or 'hdmi black level' setting that you can try. next to check would be the dynamic range(limited/full). I don't think color gamut would make the image look dim, but it might be something to check on as well.

if i'm not mistaken, my ps3 has different settings for games and blurays, so the ps4 could be similar. if that's the case, just check the settings for video, and make sure your game settings match
post #1502 of 2067
Thanks... I will do that.. it's also possible that my expectations for "next gen" are just a little too high for launch games.
post #1503 of 2067
Quote:
Originally Posted by petercw2 View Post

Thanks... I will do that.. it's also possible that my expectations for "next gen" are just a little too high for launch games.
You may need to adjust the settings, a lot of the time games are too dark, especially for night levels. PS4 graphics don't look immensely better than PS3, better? yes, $400 better?...not quite. Once developers dig into the console, games should start looking amazing in a year or two. Hopefully more games will be programmed for the PS4, I read its based on x86 architecture, so it should be simpler.

I'll be getting a PS4 in a couple years when the price drops and there are a handful of Greatest Hits titles...so buy up! smile.gif
Edited by Dreamliner - 12/1/13 at 11:07pm
post #1504 of 2067
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dreamliner View Post

You may need to adjust the settings, a lot of the time games are too dark, especially for night levels. PS4 graphics don't look immensely better than PS3, better? yes, $400 better?...not quite. Once developers dig into the console, games should start looking amazing in a year or two. Hopefully more games will be programmed for the PS4, I read its based on x86 architecture, so it should be simpler.

I'll be getting a PS4 in a couple years when the price drops and there are a handful of Greatest Hits titles...so buy up! smile.gif

yeah, now that you mention it, when that 'adjust brightness' thing comes on at the start of many games, i usually turn it way up(i like to see what's hiding in the shadows, haha). so that might be part of it too
post #1505 of 2067
I use a Harmony (900 RF) remote and when shutting down, my Denon receiver turning off interrupts the double-press button sequence for the RS46, I figured out how to get the Harmony to 'press' Power Off enough times to ensure the projector shuts off:

Open up your Harmony software and go to:

Devices>(Projector) Settings>Advanced Setup.

Click Next a few times to get to the 'Which command will Power Off your device?' screen.

Add a handful of 'PowerOff' commands, that should do the trick!


Edited by Dreamliner - 12/3/13 at 10:50pm
post #1506 of 2067
thanks for the heads up! Which one do you use? I'm trying to decide on one.
post #1507 of 2067
Quote:
Originally Posted by 316 View Post

thanks for the heads up! Which one do you use? I'm trying to decide on one.
I have a Harmony 900, it's RF because my gear is in another room. cool.gif

Looks like the new version is the Harmony Ultimate, looks pretty cool.
post #1508 of 2067
Im looking at that one and the Logitech - Harmony Smart Control which I can use my ipad with..I think they are the same with the exception of the hand held remote being fancier on the ultimate? My gear will be in a separate room as well but your projector is in the same room where you use the remote right? It serves in both rooms?
post #1509 of 2067
Quote:
Originally Posted by 316 View Post

Im looking at that one and the Logitech - Harmony Smart Control which I can use my ipad with..I think they are the same with the exception of the hand held remote being fancier on the ultimate? My gear will be in a separate room as well but your projector is in the same room where you use the remote right? It serves in both rooms?
Right. The Harmony remote sends IR commands to devices in the room with you from the remote itself, the Hub sends IR or Bluetooth (PS3 etc) commands to your gear in the 'equipment room'.
post #1510 of 2067
The harmony smart control is limited to only 8 devices ultimate can control 15 devices and different remotes are differences between them the only problem with smart remote is itsto easy to accidentally turn projector on other then that i love it
post #1511 of 2067
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dreamliner View Post

I use a Harmony (900 RF) remote and when shutting down, my Denon receiver turning off interrupts the double-press button sequence for the RS46, I figured out how to get the Harmony to 'press' Power Off enough times to ensure the projector shuts off:

Open up your Harmony software and go to:

Devices>(Projector) Settings>Advanced Setup.

Click Next a few times to get to the 'Which command will Power Off your device?' screen.

Add a handful of 'PowerOff' commands, that should do the trick!

 

I believe Harmony has the ability to add a delay or pause between commands.  I have a Samsung TV that takes a several seconds to boot up after turning it on.  The Harmony was sending the command to switch TV inputs before it was fully on, so I added a delay before the input command was sent and then it would work fine.

post #1512 of 2067
Is there a digital vertical image shift adjustment on this projector like the Panasonic 8000 has to move the image with a scope screen to stack both of the letterbox bars on top of the picture?
post #1513 of 2067
No, just the optical lens shift.
post #1514 of 2067
What projectors besides the Panasonic have this feature?
post #1515 of 2067
Is it a big enough reason to not buy a JVC?

I use the lens shift memory for this and it's 100% accurate and repeatable. Takes less than two seconds to get into position.
post #1516 of 2067
Quote:
Originally Posted by StevenC56 View Post

What projectors besides the Panasonic have this feature?
My Panasonic AE7000 & AE8000 stacked the bars on the bottom (perhaps this has to do with mounting?). I actually prefer the way Panasonic handles it, all the projector has to do is ZOOM to change aspect ratios. The JVC makes sure the content is always center on the image panel and lens but the motorized lens physically moves. I will say though, unless your walls are pure white and you are standing in pitch blackness you won't see any 'over spray'.
Edited by Dreamliner - 12/5/13 at 12:47am
post #1517 of 2067
Quote:
Originally Posted by StevenC56 View Post

What projectors besides the Panasonic have this feature?

A Lumagen Radiance can do vertical shift for any display.
post #1518 of 2067
To clarify, it can vertically reposition how an image with an aspect ratio greater than the chip aspect ratio lies within the chip frame.
post #1519 of 2067
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dreamliner View Post

My Panasonic AE7000 & AE8000 stacked the bars on the bottom (perhaps this has to do with mounting?). I actually prefer the way Panasonic handles it, all the projector has to do is ZOOM to change aspect ratios. The JVC makes sure the content is always center on the image panel and lens but the motorized lens physically moves. I will say though, unless your walls are pure white and you are standing in pitch blackness you won't see any 'over spray'.

Yes, the 2.35 image is always centered, but you can shift the 2.35 image to the top, middle or bottom of the screen, as long as you have the lens shift to do so. In other words do not set the projector so that it is using max vertical lens shift for your 16:9 image.
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post #1520 of 2067
Calibration update as promised earlier in this thread:

I ran a calibration check last night on my X35 on it's 16:9 setting (I have a separate one for 2.35:1 with lens which I'll do tonight). The pre calibration measurement confirmed a similar gamma 'droop' that the older models used to have, though perhaps not as extreme as I remember from before. This was at 330 hours and the last calibration was done at 100 hours. Please note that I use a Lumagen Mini3D so my settings will be quite different to other X35 owners, so I won't post the settings (please don't PM me for them either).

I think I may have adjusted the RGB gains at 100% before I started this calibration hence why the 100% dE is very small. Also I'm using 'Wide' colour space as my Lumagen can correct the colours if they start off oversaturated.

Hopefully this attachment will work otherwise I will try to screenshot the gamma section. GreyscaleFilm04Dec2013.pdf 2421k .pdf file

NOTE: I manually adjusted the greyscale afterwards to remove the drop at 90%. The above attached file is an Autocalibration using Chromapure and Lumagen Mini3D with only the basic set up of brightness, contrast and 100% whitebalance performed manually prior to starting the autocal.
post #1521 of 2067
Quote:
Originally Posted by ahmadka View Post

Is there any decent 3rd party ceiling mount for the RS-46 which is cheaper than the Chief ones, SLB281 or RPA281 ?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Schwa View Post

I use this Peerless mount and it works great. You'll just need slightly longer screws than those included -- you can get them at your local hardware store.

Peerless mounts are every bit the, uh, "peers" of Chief mounts so I wouldn't worry about their quality. Peerless also offers custom mount plates (as opposed to the universal "spider" mount) that can be used as well, but the spider mount looks damned near custom anyway.

I've used Peerless mounts with my Sony VPL-HS10, Sony VPL-VW60, and my current RS4810, and I've never had a single problem with any of them. I'll continue to use Peerless when my RS4910 arrives.

I also use the Peerless PRGUNV and it is built well and holds my RS-46 with no issues. The gears make adjusting the mount a breeze. Not some cheap $40 - $50 mount but not as expensive as the Chiefs either so it's a good option in between to save but not sacrifice on quality IMO.
post #1522 of 2067
Quote:
Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 5 View Post

Yes, the 2.35 image is always centered, but you can shift the 2.35 image to the top, middle or bottom of the screen, as long as you have the lens shift to do so. In other words do not set the projector so that it is using max vertical lens shift for your 16:9 image.

So, is it possible to position a JVC to center the 16:9 image and have both of the letterbox bars on a 2.35 movie on top of the image using a scope screen?
post #1523 of 2067
Quote:
Originally Posted by stevelup View Post

Is it a big enough reason to not buy a JVC?

I use the lens shift memory for this and it's 100% accurate and repeatable. Takes less than two seconds to get into position.

Please clarify what you are able to do with your JVC.
post #1524 of 2067
Quote:
Originally Posted by StevenC56 View Post

So, is it possible to position a JVC to center the 16:9 image and have both of the letterbox bars on a 2.35 movie on top of the image using a scope screen?

Eh? On a scope screen, there are no letterbox bars on a 2.35 movie. That's the whole point.

The JVC can do what you want (whatever that is, exactly) by using its motorized lens shift and lens memory to switch between 1.78 and 2.35. That's one of the major benefits of the lens memory. It's called the "zoom method" for CIH.
post #1525 of 2067
Quote:
Originally Posted by StevenC56 View Post

Please clarify what you are able to do with your JVC.

Exactly what you asked... Move the image so there are no black bars at the top (or bottom) when watching 'scope material.

You can so anything you like with the lens memory. Shift, zoom and focus - you can save 10 presets.
post #1526 of 2067
Quote:
Originally Posted by StevenC56 View Post

So, is it possible to position a JVC to center the 16:9 image and have both of the letterbox bars on a 2.35 movie on top of the image using a scope screen?

I think you are talking about Vertical bars for 16:9 on a scope screen no? If so I beleive the answer is no. However with the Lumagen and an ANAMORPHIC lens yes. No black bars vertical or horizontal on the scope screen.
post #1527 of 2067
There is a masking feature that would allow you to display 16:9 content on a scope screen without the black bars. Why anyone would ever want to do that is beyond me though!
post #1528 of 2067
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelvin1965S View Post

Calibration update as promised earlier in this thread:

I ran a calibration check last night on my X35 on it's 16:9 setting (I have a separate one for 2.35:1 with lens which I'll do tonight). The pre calibration measurement confirmed a similar gamma 'droop' that the older models used to have, though perhaps not as extreme as I remember from before. This was at 330 hours and the last calibration was done at 100 hours. Please note that I use a Lumagen Mini3D so my settings will be quite different to other X35 owners, so I won't post the settings (please don't PM me for them either).

I think I may have adjusted the RGB gains at 100% before I started this calibration hence why the 100% dE is very small. Also I'm using 'Wide' colour space as my Lumagen can correct the colours if they start off oversaturated.

Hopefully this attachment will work otherwise I will try to screenshot the gamma section. GreyscaleFilm04Dec2013.pdf 2421k .pdf file

NOTE: I manually adjusted the greyscale afterwards to remove the drop at 90%. The above attached file is an Autocalibration using Chromapure and Lumagen Mini3D with only the basic set up of brightness, contrast and 100% whitebalance performed manually prior to starting the autocal.

Hi,
Did you tried to start from Standard?
It is possible to obtain better results?

Regards
post #1529 of 2067
No point in me using Standard as Wide allows oversaturation that my Lumagen can then correct. Though when I checked last year Standard does give quite good results if you haven't got an external CMS to use to correct the colours fully.

Note that the attachment I put up was for greyscale ONLY. I ran the 125 point autocal afterwards and got 'perfect' colours on that run. The purpose of my post was just to confirm that we still have that gamma 'droop' after a time which the older models suffered from.
post #1530 of 2067
Kelvin. I have the same setup as you, but in my case the lumagen is not able to rein in the oversaturated colors. It just makes slight adjustments and the colors are still way off after the 125p calibration if i start in wide mode.
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