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Official JVC DLA-RS46 / DLA-X35 owners thread - Page 7

post #181 of 794
12/14/12 at 5:19am
Quote:
Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 5 View Post

One thing to keep in mind, when projecting onto a wall, it is very hard to determine if the image is square. This is because you do not have a perfectly square frame to project against. If the image is not perfectly square, then focus can't be completely uniform edge to edge.

I think what Mike is trying to convey is not the square shape that a frame makes but having the plane of the wall exactly match the plane of the lens. This of course would have really nothing to do re the shape or outline of the frame but as to whether the wall is perfectly flat like a stretched fabric on a frame would be . One could indeed project a rectangle (the 16/9 one generated by the chips on a wall and simply measure the top and bottom and the sides getting them the same Top and bottom of course longer than the sides and even measure with a protractoe to get 90 degrees without having a frame to mimic. But unless the wall is flat and most aren't, the focus could be off.
Edited by mark haflich - 12/14/12 at 6:14am
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post #182 of 794
12/14/12 at 5:21am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Holiday121 View Post

Anyone care to safe some of there picture settings? As far as gamma and 6500k etc etc?
This is my first projector so not really sure how its supposed to look

From all reports so far, the JVC is pretty good right out of the box already, but I'd also be interested if anybody would like to share their settings. smile.gif

It's been mentioned that Cinema or Natural modes are quite good, set color space to standard, set gamma to 2.2 (or just leave as is), and that's a pretty nice picture as is. For bat-cave movies, I set the iris to -15; for room-lighting TV, I leave it at 0. Then I used the AVS calibration tools (link in post #1) to do a basic calibration of brightness and contrast which gave me -1/+1 for contrast/brightness for bat-cave mode, and -2/+2 for TV mode. After that, I think I set the Black Level adjustment set at 1.

Hopefully, Zombie10k, Art et al. can present their own settings soon.
Edited by Dragon Reborn - 12/14/12 at 5:27am
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post #183 of 794
12/14/12 at 5:44am
Quote:
Originally Posted by mark haflich View Post

I think what Mike is trying to convey is not the square shape that a frame makes but having the plane of the wall exactly match the plane of the lens. this of course would have really nothing to do re the shape or outline of the frame but as to whether the wall is perfectly flat like a stretched fabric on a frame would be . One could indeed project a rectangle (the 16/90 one generated by the chips on a wall and simply measure the top and bottom and the sides getting them the same Top and bottom of cpurse longer than the sides and even measure with a protractoe to get 90 degrees without having a frame to mimic. But unless the wall is flat and most aren't, the focus could be off.

Yes. Even if the wall is perfectly flat and in horizontal and vertical plane, it is very easy to have the projector rotated right or left and or up/down a tiny bit. This makes the image slightly trapezoidal shaped. Some times this can be hard to see on a wall, when there is no frame. If an image is trapezoidal because the projector is rotated slightly right or left, then the middle can be in focus and neither end will be in focus. The same can happen up and down. If rotated slightly to one side and tilted slightly up or down, then all edges will be out of focus if the center is focused.
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post #184 of 794
12/14/12 at 6:01am
Code:

Thanks for the tips ill try them out and let you know
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post #185 of 794
12/14/12 at 8:17am
After mounting, how can I ensure the lens is perpendicular to the screen?
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post #186 of 794
12/14/12 at 8:22am
Bring up the zoom pattern which is a series of squares (or might be shift/focus). You can then tilt or twist the protector to make sure that the pattern isn't trapezoidal (you may have to use the lens shift to put the image back onto the screen), I tend to do this with the projector zoomed small so the pattern fits inside the screen area. It's easier for me as my X35 is stood on top of a bookcase, so I just have to turn it and adjust the legs, but if it's a ceiling mount then it might be a bit more tricky to do.
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post #187 of 794
12/14/12 at 8:42am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragon Reborn View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by HyperReality View Post

On the remote, quickly press UP DOWN RIGHT LEFT ENTER

What is this, a Konami projector? ;-)
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post #188 of 794
12/14/12 at 8:59am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragon Reborn View Post

Here you go: http://f.cl.ly/items/1L012i3B1g130y0x1d2v/NEC_pattern_1.jpg
Not sure. Was this sound in 2D or 3D mode? Low or high lamp? I can't say I've heard this myself, but I can check when I fire it up next.

Great, thank you!

It was in 2D mode, low lamp.
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post #189 of 794
12/14/12 at 9:06am
Quote:
Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 5 View Post

One thing to keep in mind, when projecting onto a wall, it is very hard to determine if the image is square. This is because you do not have a perfectly square frame to project against. If the image is not perfectly square, then focus can't be completely uniform edge to edge.

Thanks Mike. That makes sense. I doubt I will have it 100% completely square until it gets officially mounted.
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post #190 of 794
12/14/12 at 9:13am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragon Reborn View Post

From all reports so far, the JVC is pretty good right out of the box already, but I'd also be interested if anybody would like to share their settings. smile.gif
It's been mentioned that Cinema or Natural modes are quite good, set color space to standard, set gamma to 2.2 (or just leave as is), and that's a pretty nice picture as is. For bat-cave movies, I set the iris to -15; for room-lighting TV, I leave it at 0. Then I used the AVS calibration tools (link in post #1) to do a basic calibration of brightness and contrast which gave me -1/+1 for contrast/brightness for bat-cave mode, and -2/+2 for TV mode. After that, I think I set the Black Level adjustment set at 1.
Hopefully, Zombie10k, Art et al. can present their own settings soon.

I set up with the User mode, which I've subsequently calibrated. I used the following settings, but found that the colour temp measured a bit too low once I got my meter out, though this will vary from example to example and also dependent on room/screen/ancillary equipment too.

User 1:
Contrast, brightness, colour and tint at zero as confirmed by the AVS HD709 basic patterns.
Colour temp 6500K
Custom gamma set to 2.3
Standard colour space
Sharpness/detail to zero
Black level to +2 (I'm going to revisit this as I think my black level is slightly raised having done some more checking last night)
Aperture at -15 (gives me 100 Lux at 16:9 setting) which equals 14fL on my 1.5 gain screen).
CMD OFF

I have User 2 set the same but the iris at -8 or -9 for use with 2.35:1 content with my A lens.

When I did my calibration I changed the colour temp to Custom colour temp and picked 6500 but then changed red gain to -10 and blue gain to -11 for 0.3 dE at 100%. In my case the Lumagen does the rest, so no need for further adjustments. Note that I left the RGB offsets at 0 to avoid raising the black level or crushing dark scenes.

Also, just to comment that there shouldn't be any need to have different brightness and contrast setting for 'TV' or 'Bat cave' mode: The correct setting with the black not being clipped and the lowest black floor is all that is needed. Perhaps if watching with some ambient light then maybe need to raise the brightness just to avoid black crush, but otherwise one correct setting should apply for both modes IMHO.
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post #191 of 794
12/14/12 at 9:48am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelvin1965S View Post

I set up with the User mode, which I've subsequently calibrated. I used the following settings, but found that the colour temp measured a bit too low once I got my meter out, though this will vary from example to example and also dependent on room/screen/ancillary equipment too.
User 1:
Contrast, brightness, colour and tint at zero as confirmed by the AVS HD709 basic patterns.
Colour temp 6500K
Custom gamma set to 2.3
Standard colour space
Sharpness/detail to zero
Black level to +2 (I'm going to revisit this as I think my black level is slightly raised having done some more checking last night)
Aperture at -15 (gives me 100 Lux at 16:9 setting) which equals 14fL on my 1.5 gain screen).
CMD OFF
I have User 2 set the same but the iris at -8 or -9 for use with 2.35:1 content with my A lens.
When I did my calibration I changed the colour temp to Custom colour temp and picked 6500 but then changed red gain to -10 and blue gain to -11 for 0.3 dE at 100%. In my case the Lumagen does the rest, so no need for further adjustments. Note that I left the RGB offsets at 0 to avoid raising the black level or crushing dark scenes.
Also, just to comment that there shouldn't be any need to have different brightness and contrast setting for 'TV' or 'Bat cave' mode: The correct setting with the black not being clipped and the lowest black floor is all that is needed. Perhaps if watching with some ambient light then maybe need to raise the brightness just to avoid black crush, but otherwise one correct setting should apply for both modes IMHO.

Great info in this post, Kelvin, thanks!

My "TV" mode includes having 6 potlights (at half illumination) and 4 wall sconces on, but I hear what you're saying. smile.gif
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post #192 of 794
12/14/12 at 10:34am
Then your TV mode may well need the black floor raising a little to be able to see the lower % for shadow detail with some lights on. I don't tend to bother as if I have the projector on and a single lamp at the back of the room such as if I'm having a 'TV' dinner eek.gif then I just use my 2.35:1 setting (the one with more iris opened) to combat some of the ambient light assuming I'm watching 16:9 which most TV seems to be anyway.

I meant to say that if that's your bat cave in your avatar then it looks a really nice set up you have there. cool.gif
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post #193 of 794
12/14/12 at 12:10pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelvin1965S View Post

Then your TV mode may well need the black floor raising a little to be able to see the lower % for shadow detail with some lights on. I don't tend to bother as if I have the projector on and a single lamp at the back of the room such as if I'm having a 'TV' dinner eek.gif then I just use my 2.35:1 setting (the one with more iris opened) to combat some of the ambient light assuming I'm watching 16:9 which most TV seems to be anyway.
I meant to say that if that's your bat cave in your avatar then it looks a really nice set up you have there. cool.gif

Thanks, and yeah, that's my HT. smile.gif

And by "bat-cave," I just meant lights off in the theatre. I know some folks have here have totally black theatres, wall-to-wall and floor-to-ceiling. tongue.gif
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post #194 of 794
12/14/12 at 4:24pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jcorbin View Post

Great, thank you!
It was in 2D mode, low lamp.

I've put my ear up to all corners of the projector and I don't hear any ringing or other odd noise. Maybe if you need to get your switcher/firmware update, you can ask JVC to investigate that noise too?

On another note, I accessed the service menu and confirmed that my unit has the problematic switcher, 2012.9.26.1

Also, there is a convergence test pattern in the service menu!
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post #195 of 794
12/15/12 at 2:56pm
Hello, I would like to know if anyone tested an X35 with Darbee against an X55 to know if Eshift2 is really worth it? Kelvin maybe?

I reserved an X35 but I'm still wondering if I should leap towards the X55.

Thanks!
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post #196 of 794
12/16/12 at 1:58am
No, I've only seen an X55 with a Darbee on and off with Eshift on and now my own X35 with a Darbee. I think I missed a trick as I could have got the dealer to demo the X55 with Eshift off and Darbee on, then compare X55 Eshift on and Darbee off. It was a little rushed so I didn't get to try everything that I would have liked. What I can say is that with the X35 installed in my room, properly set up and the Darbee on 50% HD I don't feel at all like the poor relation. For me the X35 was more of an impulse purchase compared to the X55: Initially I just wanted a white unit to better fit in with some decoration changes we are making in the room and I figured that any newer model would give some PQ improvement over my black HD350, I'm just surprised that the improvement is so noticeable.

It's a tough call which model you go for as I believe the price difference for you is much less. In the UK the X55 is £2,100 more (ie virtually twice the price of the X35 especially if it's the 2D only package that I got which means no glasses or emitter). I already had a Lumagen Mini3D, so that takes care of the CMS (and then some with the 125 point CMS and autocal cool.gif), plus I had the Darbee and my Isco II lens. I don't think I'd be any better off if I sold those 'accessories' and bought the X55 instead, especially as I like not having any overspill from using an A lens.
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post #197 of 794
12/16/12 at 2:13pm
Hey Everyone, Anyone had the X30/ RS45 and upgraded to the x35/RS46? If so do you notice it being any brighter? I currently have the RS45 with a 100" SI black Diamond 1.4 gain screen and seems dim to me. I've got about 475 hours on the bulb.
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post #198 of 794
12/16/12 at 5:45pm
Is RS46 an overkill just for 2D use? I have Panasonic 4000 now so memory zoom is awesome, but I don't/ won't watch any 3D at all,
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post #199 of 794
12/16/12 at 6:03pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by yourtoys7 View Post

Is RS46 an overkill just for 2D use? I have Panasonic 4000 now so memory zoom is awesome, but I don't/ won't watch any 3D at all,
Do you mean is it too expensive to use for only 2D? Because there are many projectors that are more that doesn't do 3D and cheaper projectors that do 2D. If you want the 2D quality, its the JVC
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post #200 of 794
12/16/12 at 6:15pm
No, maybe the 2D is not best as 3D focus is shifting, so I'm paying for 3D (not sure how much), but essentially waisting money on 3D side of it. I'm only looking for 2D and besides old 250 model they don't make 2D only.
Anyone came from Panasonic 4000 model or others to JVC?, how big of a change was it?...
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post #201 of 794
12/16/12 at 7:14pm
Thanks for your input Kelvin. Over here in Canada, as you were saying, the difference is around a 1200$ between X35 and X55, so not as steep as in your neck of the woods. You seem like a happy camper with the X35. I have only seen the X30 and Sony's w50 and the Panasonic 8000, because X35 and X55 are not yet up for demo in stores around here. I liked the X30 better than the Sony, even if the Reality Creation bit is nice. The guy at the store had the Panny against the Sony and he switched from one to the other while playing the Dark Knight opening scenes and the Sony was clearly one step ahead in most aspects. I noticed that the opening traveling scene with the buildings, the X30's weakness was some clipping in rendering the building windows. Hope this is cared for in the newer projectors, while not a real game changer for me. I'll wait for a real demo of the X55 soon and make my decision after. The w50 is between the two JVC price wise but with no lens memory shift and has a less film like look for me. It's still a serious contender. I'm starting with the custom Wall-of-Sound that's going to be behind the acoustic screen to give me time.

Cheers,
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post #202 of 794
12/16/12 at 10:02pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragon Reborn View Post

I'm also using near-max vertical lens shift (with about 3" to spare on a 100" screen), and no horizontal shift ---> good uniform focus. And prior to ceiling installation, I had tested focus with no lens shift just to be sure, and it was good, edge to edge to edge. smile.gif

Folks,
How much vertical lens shift is available i.e. how far above the top of the screen can the center of the lens be located?

Also, does the lens have an automatica cover (like the epson 5010s)
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post #203 of 794
12/16/12 at 11:17pm
The JVC R46 does not have automatic lens cover. You have to take it out and put it in yourself
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post #204 of 794
12/17/12 at 4:22am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bytebuster View Post

Folks,
How much vertical lens shift is available i.e. how far above the top of the screen can the center of the lens be located?

For maximum vertical lens shift (with no horizontal shift), the lens can be placed 80% of the screen height above the screen centre. See post #1 for setup/placement tips. With any horizontal shift, vertical lens shift is reduced.
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post #205 of 794
12/17/12 at 5:32am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Holiday121 View Post

The JVC R46 does not have automatic lens cover. You have to take it out and put it in yourself

There is a lens cover for the RS46? Mine came with the plastic clear one for shipping, but I have found no lens cap in the box to put on/off the projector.
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post #206 of 794
12/17/12 at 6:03am
Got my RS66 a few days ago. Will not be able to ceiling mount it for a few days but just in a temporary setup the results so far are excellent. Pixel alignment is spot on. Corner to corner seems very uniform and this is with plenty of vertical lens shift.
Lots of flexibility with User modes. Settings I made for sports worked exceedingly well over yesterday's NFL games. When switching back to HBO I immediately knew it was time for the switch to one of the Cinema modes. BluRay presentation looks amazing so far.
Using the Darbee at about 50 setting for added detail in all modes.
I still like the high lamp mode on my 100 inch screen but I notice less difference than with previous JVC projectors.
If you like to tweak colors and gamma the menu allows for all kinds of experimentation.
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post #207 of 794
12/17/12 at 6:09am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Neowulf View Post

There is a lens cover for the RS46? Mine came with the plastic clear one for shipping, but I have found no lens cap in the box to put on/off the projector.

That is the only lens cover that the RS46 has. Remember the lens is coated with an anti static coating. Dust is usually not a problem. The cover is good, if you have a low mounted projector and have little ones that might want to touch the lens. One of my projectors has been shelf mounted for 6 years and it does not have a lens cover. I have never had to clean the lens.
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post #208 of 794
12/17/12 at 11:43am
Quote:
Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 5 View Post

That is the only lens cover that the RS46 has. Remember the lens is coated with an anti static coating. Dust is usually not a problem. The cover is good, if you have a low mounted projector and have little ones that might want to touch the lens. One of my projectors has been shelf mounted for 6 years and it does not have a lens cover. I have never had to clean the lens.

Thanks Mike.

LOVING the projector btw. I don't have a digital camera, all I have is this crappy IPhone to take pictures, and it doesn't do justice to the quality of this projector and the screen. But here is a shot at 11 feet away:




And Here is 4 feet away off right




All "blur" and "noise" is the phone. You don't see it on the screen.


Absolutely happy with my purchase.


14 ft throw to a Monoprice 120" screen.
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post #209 of 794
12/17/12 at 2:45pm
Would you be so kind as to post some photos of dark content with the black bars ? Also could you give your impression of how dark the bars appear ? Thanks and take care.
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post #210 of 794
12/17/12 at 3:18pm
Last night I threw in a DVD (Pirates of the Caribbean 1 - Curse of the Black Pearl) and it was an awful transfer. Other movies didn't seem so bad so it could be that particular movie but I'm worried that I never noticed it on 720p. Yes I know the resolution just about doubles again from 720 to 1080

My Panasonic is upconverting to 1080p but any thoughts on trying to output in native DVD res (480p) and letting the JVC upconvert? Does it have that capability?
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