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Official JVC DLA-RS46 / DLA-X35 owners thread - Page 21

post #601 of 2096
Quote:
Originally Posted by pjneder View Post

A post about using a Chief ceiling projector mount and RS46.

When I got this beast out of the box, I realized that I would not be able to use the pre-existing mount I had for my old Optoma DLP (weighed maybe 3lbs). Since I did not order one from AV-S when I got the RS46, I went to a local high-end store and paid a bit more for a Chief mount having read in earlier posts that it would work. I bought the RPAU. There are actually two parts to this mount, the RPAU which screws onto the 1.5" NPT pipe and the SLBU, which is the plate and legs that mount to the projector.

Now the fun starts....

The RS46 is a very large and quite heavy projector. To support this Chief came up with a special plate that get to all of the mount holes. It is the SLB281. My problem was that I was impatient to get my PJ up and I didn't want to spend the extra $115.

The SLBU that comes in the kit does not have legs long enough to reach all 4 mount holes! However, if you are a tiny bit handy, this is easily fixed with a few $ of parts from your local hardware store. smile.gif I bought the following parts list:

section of 1"x1/4" bar steel
2x 10mm hollow spacers
2x M5x40mm bolts <--- These go into the projector
2x 3/16 fender washers
pack of 5mm washers
2x 1/4" "License Plate" machine screws <---- These go into the center plate
2x 1/4" lock washers

Total ~$15 at Home Depot

I put the plate on 2 of the 4 included legs and centered it on projector. The resulting measurements showed me that I needed a leg with 6" OC (on center) holes and a leg with 6.25" OC holes. I added an inch at each end after the hold. I used a hacksaw to cut a piece at 8.25" and one at 8". I then drilled a hole on each piece sized for the M5 bolt and a slightly larger hole for the 1/4" screw. Mount everything up as in the pictures below. Make sure and use the fender washer against the projector to spread the load out and not crack the plastic housing. No need to over tighten the M5 bolts, just get them snug enough such that there is not movement.




Does not require much skill, but it does require *some* skill, so do not attempt if you are uncomfortable with any of these steps. No warranties or guarantees implied! Use at your own risk! eek.gif

This saved me ~$100 + shipping + waiting for several more days. I also have the complete RPAU universal mount for any future projector I might use.

Have fun.

You did not save $100. The 281 plate is not extra. Rather than buy a RPAU, you needed an RPA281. It costs the same as the RPAU and it holds the JVC better. Your local dealer should have known this or researched what you needed.
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post #602 of 2096
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xank View Post

Nooooo! Make it bigger! smile.gif Congrats.

As for your geometry problem, check out this post:

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1458735/alignment-issues-with-sony-hw50es#post_22978766

Xank,

Thanks. I spent a LOT of time on the ladder last night and got it to be a little bit better. I am now almost convinced that there might be a slight bow in the screen itself. It seems like no matter how hard I try I always end up with something a little bit off. I understand the 3d rotational aspect of how to adjust out the mis-alignments. In the end, if I get it mostly there, I am compromising a bit somewhere. Keystone, tilt, or cushion ends up somewhere. Maybe I am still just challenged and don't have the right adjustment zen. The good news that the focus seems pretty consistent across the screen. Which gets me back to thinking that maybe I'm still off adjustment wise.

Still, it looks pretty darn good now thanks to the tutorial.
post #603 of 2096
Quote:
Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 5 View Post

You did not save $100. The 281 plate is not extra. Rather than buy a RPAU, you needed an RPA281. It costs the same as the RPAU and it holds the JVC better. Your local dealer should have known this or researched what you needed.

Thanks Mike. I should have had Craig send me one when I ordered but I made that mistake at first. The local guys here are not really JVC dealers, and the RPAU was the only thing they had in stock. Again, my impatience put me on that path more than anything else. Thanks for the clarification. Since there is no savings, I would recommend to just buy the SLB281 and skip all of the crafting!
post #604 of 2096
Yeah, that is the only reason I posted. Did not want others to think going the route you went would save them $100. When instead, it cost extra time, money and does not hold the projector as well. If the arms have any flex or droop to them, it puts extra stress on the mount connections. A lot of leverage can be generated because of the long arms and heavy weight of the projector. Not saying it is going to fail, but it is not as good as using the correct mount.
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post #605 of 2096
When the JVCs using the current chassis first came out, Chief didn't have a dedicated playe for them. JVC was loudly criticized for not getting together with Chief so that a plate would be available at the time JVC shipped. Remember that is months after the projector is first shown.

Anyhow Chief said use are universale plate, the one that uses arms. Unfortunately as you found out the arms are not long enough for the thing to work with tyhe holes drilled in the plate by Chief. This subject was discussed in the forum years ago and solutions devised that cost $0. Basically, you attach the long dimension of the plate accross the width rather than along the length of the projector and enlarge one hole or drill one new one. I don't remember. But when this problem arose my company when installing JVCs just modified the plate with a drill. Took about 30 seconds in the field and we never had to even mention it to the customer. once the plate is mounted, any extra hole could never be seen.

If you screen is bowed you will see a curved line. If so shim the screen to get rid of the bow.


The biggest problem with figuring alignment is the left right rotation around the pipe. The other two adjustments are very easy. Its because one did not mount the lens at the horizontal center of the screen. Its tough to mount it at the right spot because of walls not being parallel etc. anyhow, one has to twist in so much correction that the image or large parts of it go off the screen. Horizontal lens shift can get you back but there is only a limited amount of it and using a lot will optically deteriorate part of the image as you approach the circumference of the lens with the exit imager. but that's another subject. Another solution is to get a lateral shift bracket accessory for your mount and with that you can in essence move the mount LATERALLY without physically changing the mounting point on the ceiling.
post #606 of 2096
Quote:
Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 5 View Post

Yeah, that is the only reason I posted. Did not want others to think going the route you went would save them $100. When instead, it cost extra time, money and does not hold the projector as well. If the arms have any flex or droop to them, it puts extra stress on the mount connections. A lot of leverage can be generated because of the long arms and heavy weight of the projector. Not saying it is going to fail, but it is not as good as using the correct mount.

Mike, I will edit my original post to reflect that further reading should be done. However, I can say with confidence that there is no droop or flex in the 6" of 1/4" steel bar that I used. I would say by observation that my home made legs are pretty much as good as the Chief legs for transferring the vertical load from plate to mount point.

That being said, you remain correct that the correct plate is the best option.
post #607 of 2096
Quote:
Originally Posted by mark haflich View Post

If you screen is bowed you will see a curved line. If so shim the screen to get rid of the bow.

My screen is suspended from a 45deg ceiling wall. Checking for bow is tricky and shimming even trickier. I have some ideas on how I can do it, IF I can verify there is anything to fix.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mark haflich View Post

The biggest problem with figuring alignment is the left right rotation around the pipe. The other two adjustments are very easy. Its because one did not mount the lens at the horizontal center of the screen. Its tough to mount it at the right spot because of walls not being parallel etc. anyhow, one has to twist in so much correction that the image or large parts of it go off the screen. Horizontal lens shift can get you back but there is only a limited amount of it and using a lot will optically deteriorate part of the image as you approach the circumference of the lens with the exit imager. but that's another subject. Another solution is to get a lateral shift bracket accessory for your mount and with that you can in essence move the mount LATERALLY without physically changing the mounting point on the ceiling.

Thanks for the tips. Every time I dial in rotation and the shift I end up with trapezoidal shapes, so I've about figured that I have the horizontal planes aligned. This could be exactly what you mention, a very subtle optical error introduced from the 2 directions of lens shift I have. I will keep tweaking it and try some measurements on the screen for planar shape. Experimenting is tricky. I can't just swap in another screen or wall real quick to try something out. smile.gif Getting a lateral shifter would be nice for checking, but I won't buy one unless I know for sure that it does exactly what I need.

Cheers.
post #608 of 2096
Quote:
Originally Posted by pjneder View Post

Thanks for the post, that should be helpful. Since you are good with 3d geometry you will get this. The screen is suspended from a 45deg sloped wall. I'm already only 13' away. Any increase is screen size puts a larger screen closer to me! Trust me, I've been trying to justify an even bigger screen but I'm having a hard time making it work in my room. cool.gif

I sit 11' away from my 106" screen in my smaller theater room & it feels just fine. A 90" screen from 13'would seem way to small to me.
post #609 of 2096
eek.gifmad.gifeek.gifmad.gif Input failure?

HAS ANYONE SEEN THIS?!?!?

I was switching between input devices via my Onkyo and all of the sudden the screen took on a purple cast to everything. I tried different devices, I tried turning everything off and back on and it did not help. I tried setting to different modes (Film, User1, etc). Then I took the cable at the PJ from HDMI-2 and put it in HDMI-1 and it looks ok. I went back to HDMI-2 and the same thing. It seems as if one of the inputs has a major problem.

Any ideas?
post #610 of 2096
Quote:
Originally Posted by pjneder View Post

Xank,

Thanks. I spent a LOT of time on the ladder last night and got it to be a little bit better. I am now almost convinced that there might be a slight bow in the screen itself. It seems like no matter how hard I try I always end up with something a little bit off. I understand the 3d rotational aspect of how to adjust out the mis-alignments. In the end, if I get it mostly there, I am compromising a bit somewhere. Keystone, tilt, or cushion ends up somewhere. Maybe I am still just challenged and don't have the right adjustment zen. The good news that the focus seems pretty consistent across the screen. Which gets me back to thinking that maybe I'm still off adjustment wise.

Still, it looks pretty darn good now thanks to the tutorial.

Just zoom you're picture out so there is a slight bit bleeding on to the frame, picture is now perfect.
post #611 of 2096
I happened across another review for the X35 and thought I would share.

http://reviews.cnet.com/home-theater-projectors/jvc-dla-x35b/4505-7858_7-35616134.html
post #612 of 2096
Quote:
Originally Posted by pjneder View Post

Mike, I will edit my original post to reflect that further reading should be done. However, I can say with confidence that there is no droop or flex in the 6" of 1/4" steel bar that I used. I would say by observation that my home made legs are pretty much as good as the Chief legs for transferring the vertical load from plate to mount point.

That being said, you remain correct that the correct plate is the best option.

Chief does not make a mount with four legs for use with the JVC projectors. If you do not have any downward flex, you are in good shape. smile.gif
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post #613 of 2096
does anyone use a panamax power conditioner with thier jvc proj or simiiar conditioner ? do they have a built in surge protector already?
post #614 of 2096
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1Myke View Post

does anyone use a panamax power conditioner with thier jvc proj or simiiar conditioner ? do they have a built in surge protector already?

I use a Furman IT Reference 7i. It has built in surge protection that has saved several projectors and bluray players and it cleans up the picture quite a bit.
post #615 of 2096
Quote:
Originally Posted by pjneder View Post

eek.gifmad.gifeek.gifmad.gif Input failure?

HAS ANYONE SEEN THIS?!?!?

I was switching between input devices via my Onkyo and all of the sudden the screen took on a purple cast to everything. I tried different devices, I tried turning everything off and back on and it did not help. I tried setting to different modes (Film, User1, etc). Then I took the cable at the PJ from HDMI-2 and put it in HDMI-1 and it looks ok. I went back to HDMI-2 and the same thing. It seems as if one of the inputs has a major problem.

Any ideas?

Did you try with another cable too? Nevertheless similar thing happens sometimes with my HD-750 and Yamaha receiver, but turning all off does help there.
post #616 of 2096
Thread Starter 
We tried the Samsung SSG-4100 glasses with Wreck-It Ralph. They worked well and are much much much lighter on the nose (and wallet) than the JVCs.

The movie had a lot of depth but little or no pop-out, but overall, a fun 3D presentation.
post #617 of 2096
Dragon: Was that used with the standard RF emitter? I'm not interested in 3D myself, but for the price of the emitter and 2 pairs of those glasses (from UK Amazon) I might be interested just for a few 3D films my son would like to watch.
post #618 of 2096
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelvin1965S View Post

Dragon: Was that used with the standard RF emitter? I'm not interested in 3D myself, but for the price of the emitter and 2 pairs of those glasses (from UK Amazon) I might be interested just for a few 3D films my son would like to watch.

Yes. As soon as the Samsung glasses were powered on, they synced automatically with the JVC emitter. No fuss. We only have a handful of 3D movies too, so the Samsung's are a fantastic option.

Wreck-It Ralph is a good one for the kids, and not bad for me either ... a nice throwback to my 80s arcade days.

One thing I forgot to mention about the Samsung glasses. They are not rechargeable. They use a flat dime-sized battery.
post #619 of 2096
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by walterappleby View Post

I happened across another review for the X35 and thought I would share.

http://reviews.cnet.com/home-theater-projectors/jvc-dla-x35b/4505-7858_7-35616134.html

Quote:
Originally Posted by kaotikr1 View Post

Art's review is up....

http://www.projectorreviews.com/jvc/dla-x35/index.php


Thanks, guys. Added the links to post #1.
post #620 of 2096
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragon Reborn View Post

We tried the Samsung SSG-4100 glasses with Wreck-It Ralph. They worked well and are much much much lighter on the nose (and wallet) than the JVCs.

The movie had a lot of depth but little or no pop-out, but overall, a fun 3D presentation.

So how do these glasses feel? They are priced right but they look strange with the design so I wanted to make sure. They have a newer 5100 model that is even less money that looks the same. Does anyone know the difference?
post #621 of 2096
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Cutter View Post

So how do these glasses feel? They are priced right but they look strange with the design so I wanted to make sure. They have a newer 5100 model that is even less money that looks the same. Does anyone know the difference?

Although they have a strange look to them, the Samsung glasses perform just as good as the JVC, and fit my face much better. The Samsung's were much more comfortable for me ... on my face, the JVC really dig into my nose and they sit too close to my eyelashes.
post #622 of 2096
I'll second the recommendation for the Samsung glasses. They are nice and light, and fit very comfortably over my prescription glasses. I haven't compared the new JVC glasses to them, but the Samsungs are a lighter shade than JVCs older IR glasses.
post #623 of 2096
Thanks for the info on the Samsung glasses. It's a much better option for my wife & kids when they want to see 3D. As for myself, give me the 2D version anytime. smile.gif
post #624 of 2096
Does anyone here speak German?

http://www.takeoffmedia.de/journalismus/testberichte-heimkino-hardware/bildwiedergabe/testjvcx35x55.html

There is a one hour video review of the x35 and x55 models with comparisons to Sony and Epson units as well.

And I can't understand any of it. :-(
post #625 of 2096
Quote:
Originally Posted by walterappleby View Post

Does anyone here speak German?

http://www.takeoffmedia.de/journalismus/testberichte-heimkino-hardware/bildwiedergabe/testjvcx35x55.html

There is a one hour video review of the x35 and x55 models with comparisons to Sony and Epson units as well.

And I can't understand any of it. :-(

We were discussing this back in January.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1434826/sony-hw50-benq-w7000-epson-5020-jvc-rs55-jvc-rs-46-jvc-rs4810-jvc-rs56-mini-shootout-2012-2013/3270#post_22893860

I translated the breakdown comparison and a few who spoke german made some comments after the post above. This reviewer also owns a Sim2 lumis as well.

germanreview3.jpg
post #626 of 2096
Quote:
Originally Posted by rmaddog View Post

Ditto. I got my RS46 pre-order confirmed yesterday as well. Wonder when it will actually get here? Sometime soon but regardless I have slacked and my room isn't near ready so I need to get my tail into high gear! This is my first projector and I am pretty excited.

There are 21 pages of posts dedicated to this projector here: http://www.avsforum.com/t/1442525/official-jvc-dla-rs46-dla-x35-owners-thread
post #627 of 2096
Is there a way to either get a readout as to the amount of shift (from center) that is currently being used or to reset the lens to the completely center position. When I was first setting up the projector (in a temporary position) I think I applied a small amount of lens shift, but now I don't remember how much or if I even did. I'm ready to mount the projector and I'd like to reset it to center before I do (no need in applying lens shift if it isn't needed right).

*Edit*
Uh maybe just hit the "Lens Center" option from the menu. I swear I didn't see that last time I had the PJ on, but then I post this and go to try something out and there ya go... smile.gif
Edited by tpag2000 - 3/17/13 at 3:07pm
post #628 of 2096
I am just about to order an X35B after trying to decide between it and the Epson 5020UB, Optoma HD8600 and Panasonic AE8000. It was part of a special that includes 3d glasses, emitter, ceiling mount and spare bulb. Hoping for a decent improvement over my older Epson 1080UB.
post #629 of 2096
Quote:
Originally Posted by filmbuff2 View Post

I am just about to order an X35B after trying to decide between it and the Epson 5020UB, Optoma HD8600 and Panasonic AE8000. It was part of a special that includes 3d glasses, emitter, ceiling mount and spare bulb. Hoping for a decent improvement over my older Epson 1080UB.

How much was this deal & where did you find it?
post #630 of 2096
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jbkbs View Post

How much was this deal & where did you find it?

Just a reminder about forum rules: don't discuss projector pricing/deals in the thread ... send a PM.
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