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Official JVC DLA-RS46 / DLA-X35 owners thread - Page 27

post #781 of 2107
I bought this projector strictly for 2D.
For anybody who care about 3D,i think that the Sony is a better one then JVC.
post #782 of 2107
Quote:
Originally Posted by anm View Post

thanks. I need very good 3D performance, if not best in class. JVC seems to be on the bad side.

That honestly depends what you mean by very good 3D performance? If it is about crosstalk, then the new range is very good and probably on par with the Sony. If you are talking about brightness in 3D, then the Sony will likely do better. However, whether you actually need more brightness depends on your screensize and screen material/gain. I only have an 80" screen and when I watched Silent Hill 3D yesterday with the aperture fully open on high bulb, it was painfully bright at times and I ended up closing the aperture down. And that is with a screen material that actually has negative gain (grey material)
post #783 of 2107
It does an admirable job with 3d.Very little crosstalk.How much 3d can 1 watch anyways.I like 3d but still watch 2d 95% of the time.Theres just not that much available.
I was very pleasantly suprised.The Hobbit looked absolutely incredible.Not even a hint of crosstalk.
post #784 of 2107
I am very curious how i will use the iris aperture on my X35 with my Da Lite JKP Affinity 1.1 gain and 110" diagonal.
On my previous JVC HD 750 it was on 0 (fully open).
JonStatt, can you comment how noisy is your lamp in low mode Vs the previous models aka HD 750?
post #785 of 2107
Quote:
Originally Posted by maximus74 View Post

I am very curious how i will use the iris aperture on my X35 with my Da Lite JKP Affinity 1.1 gain and 110" diagonal.
On my previous JVC HD 750 it was on 0 (fully open).
JonStatt, can you comment how noisy is your lamp in low mode Vs the previous models aka HD 750?

Fully open from new? (i.e. new bulb). That does seem surprising and means you would not have been getting the higher contrast the projector is capable of. I am at short throw with my projector too which of course means brighter output.

In terms of noise. I have had a 950, X7, X70 and X75. The X70 and X75 sound very similar and were both a bit quieter than the X7. It is too long ago for me to remember the 950. But I seem to recall the X7 was a bit noisier than the 950 in low lamp. So I am guessing that the new models are similar to your 750 in low bulb. But high bulb is noisy with the new range. The projector is above my head. But of course, with the sound playing, it drowns it out unless you get absolute silence. The new bulb is 10W higher in power output, but I am still surprised they found the need to raise the fan speed so much. I should also add that if you lined 5 X35 projectors, you would find slight variances in the noise. There is not just one fan in there, but several (can't recall but its like 3 or 4). And there is always some luck with resonances/interactions etc, and even whether its upside down or not. This is not just JVC...I found this with my older Sony projectors too. I am always amazed though that the fans are so reliable in general on these projectors (touches wood) because it is always the bit that fails in my PC, water cooler etc etc. When we go laser, perhaps we can do away with all these noisy fans?
post #786 of 2107
Me too i was almost at short throw with my previous HD 750,and with iris at 0 i was at ~13 fl.(150 hours on the lamp).
Even in this way the contrast was very good compared with the competitors,but of course i would love to be able to clamp down the iris on X35.
I expect that my new X35 will be much brighter then HD 750 and i hope to be with Iris aperture at -7.
Thanks
Edited by maximus74 - 5/7/13 at 4:59am
post #787 of 2107
Wondering what the latest F/W on the RS46 is? Thanks in advance.
post #788 of 2107
Does anyone have a RS46 with a serial # greater than 177xxxxx ?
post #789 of 2107
I just received mine.The serial number begins with 177xxxxx
I hope i have time to install my new projector today,if not tomorrow for sure.
I have a little problem to align perfectly the screen to my projector.
The front wall were is my screen is not perfectly even from side to side.I know i have to adjust perfectly the screen with the water bubble.
Any help will be appreciated.
Thanks
post #790 of 2107
I have my first projector X35, set up in our dedicated HT for almost 1 week now.

I used the Disney WOW BR to set the typical Contrast, Brightness, Sharpness, Color and Hue.

I am running the lamp on Low and 6500 for the Color Temp.

The picture looks really good to us, however we really have nothing to compare it to.

Is there a tutorial somewhere that explains and shows how all the other adjustments on this project should be adjusted to optimize the Picture Quality?

One that is somewhat in Laymen Terms?

I would hope that there is something out there......
post #791 of 2107
Does anyone have any recommendations for kid size 3D glasses. I currently have the newest JVC RF emitters and glasses.
post #792 of 2107
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by majek 60 View Post

I have my first projector X35, set up in our dedicated HT for almost 1 week now.

I used the Disney WOW BR to set the typical Contrast, Brightness, Sharpness, Color and Hue.

I am running the lamp on Low and 6500 for the Color Temp.

The picture looks really good to us, however we really have nothing to compare it to.

Is there a tutorial somewhere that explains and shows how all the other adjustments on this project should be adjusted to optimize the Picture Quality?

One that is somewhat in Laymen Terms?

I would hope that there is something out there......

http://www.avsforum.com/t/948496/avs-hd-709-blu-ray-mp4-calibration
post #793 of 2107
Well I just sent my RS46 off to get the 3D firmware update, it's gonna be a rough 2 weeks without it. I timed it perfectly as Game of Thrones is taking a week off, so it SHOULD be back in time for the next episode. smile.gif

Gotta say it makes me angry to my core that I just had to spend $60 to fix JVCs screw up, but I'm trying to swallow it as best I can.
post #794 of 2107
Hi,
My screen is DA-LITE JKP AFFINITY HD Progressive 1.1 gain.
In the Screen Adjustment Mode Table,there is only for 0.6 and 0.9 gain.
Does anybody know if is better to left this feature to off?

Regards
post #795 of 2107
Quote:
Originally Posted by maximus74 View Post

Hi,
My screen is DA-LITE JKP AFFINITY HD Progressive 1.1 gain.
In the Screen Adjustment Mode Table,there is only for 0.6 and 0.9 gain.
Does anybody know if is better to left this feature to off?

Regards

There is an adjustment for screen gain but not screen size?

Would be strange as they are both directly related.
post #796 of 2107
Has anyone used the RS46 on a 2.35:1 Cinemascope screen while zooming+lens shifting? In particular I want to know if the "black" of the top/bottom bars when zoomed off a cinemascope screen are dark enough.
post #797 of 2107
Quote:
Originally Posted by pjneder View Post

Has anyone used the RS46 on a 2.35:1 Cinemascope screen while zooming+lens shifting? In particular I want to know if the "black" of the top/bottom bars when zoomed off a cinemascope screen are dark enough.

I use the RS-46 on a 125" 2.35:1 screen. My screen hangs on a medium gray wall and when zoomed in to fill the screen, I don't see the upper or lower spill over at all.
Edited by PurdueCanon - 5/22/13 at 10:54am
post #798 of 2107
Quote:
Originally Posted by PurdueCanon View Post

I use the RS-46 on a 125" 2.35:1 screen. My screen hangs on a medium gray wall and when zoomed in to fill the screen, I don't see the upper or lower spill over at all.

Thanks for the answer. I'm going to order a 2.35:1 upgrade screen soon but I wanted some confirmation that it would not be a mess.

Cheers!
post #799 of 2107
Quote:
Originally Posted by pjneder View Post

Thanks for the answer. I'm going to order a 2.35:1 upgrade screen soon but I wanted some confirmation that it would not be a mess.

Cheers!

White walls, they can be seen. Any medium to dark color hides the black bars. If we can help you give us a call.
Reply
Reply
post #800 of 2107
Quote:
Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 5 View Post

White walls, they can be seen. Any medium to dark color hides the black bars. If we can help you give us a call.

That is very helpful. I have a pending project to paint my ceiling dark grey/black, now based on this I will paint the front wall grey as well. Looks like I have a fair amount of painting to do as part of the screen upgrade.

Home Theater == always a project in waiting. smile.gif
post #801 of 2107
For reference, we used behr ultra "Ashes" for the walls and Behr Ultra "Elephant skin" on the ceiling. Gray is a really tough color to judge in store and even on wall using the testers. It's also very sensitive to different light sources within a room. If you are only painting one wall, or if you have a dedicated theater, then this is less of an issue. In multi purpose rooms, I recommend painting several test swatches in the room to verify your choice.

Good luck with your screen update and related projects.
post #802 of 2107
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelvin1965S View Post

Not suffering the issues you mention, but just to comment that 'off' and 'wide' are fairly similar in their oversaturation when I measured mine. Standard is the closest to rec709 out of the box. Changing the colour space does seem to effect the colour temperature so you will need to adjust the whitebalance depending which colour space you use. Without calibration equipment all you could do for B&W is try different colour temp options such as 5500 or 6000 but even these might require RGB adjustment: Node each mode has separate RGB settings 'memory' even if you select the same colour temp so any adjustments have to be done per mode.

Some are more susceptible to the JVC's motion blur, though having come from an older HD350 to the X35 I found motion has been improved. However, I would recommend that you check the sharpness and detail enhance settings since I have had motion issues on my old HD350 with these set too high (which IMHO means pretty much anything a click or two above zero). Also make sure that the various NR options are set to a minimum too (depending which mode you are using they may be on by default).

I have tinnitus so can't comment about the ringing noise, though I'm sure my son or OH would have commented if there was a problem.
Hi,Kelvin1965S
My X35 is almost the same when colorspace is in Standard or Off.
Wide of course is over saturated and is benefical to use it with Chromapre auto cal 125-points,
In my case when i use default Custom to 7000K and colorspace: Standard, is spot on to 6500K without any adjustments,and of course in this way i have the maximum light available without using high lamp.
I made an auto cal with colorspace in Standard,with good results,but i wonder if is better to use colorspace:Wide
You can share your thoughts regarding the best way to prepare the X35 for Chromapure auto cal?
I did,t expect X35 to be so much brighter than my previous HD750,so it was a very fine surprise when i saw that i was able to use my new X35 with the aperture at -12 and i have ~13.5fl on my Da-Lite JKP Affinity 1.1 and 110"diagonal.smile.gif
post #803 of 2107
Here is a question for any of you who have owned a RS45 before: Is it worth upgrading from a RS45 to a RS46 ? Is there any considerable improvement in either 2D or 3D performance (based on a current 177xxxxx serial number unit) ? Aside from the significant difference in price, would the 4810 be the better way to go ?
Thank you.
-Melgon
Edited by Melgon - 5/24/13 at 1:04pm
post #804 of 2107
4810 is a bigger jump since it has E-Shift 2. I would not upgrade from an RS-45 to RS-46, and I've seen both. The 3D is better on the RS-46, but the only real 2D improvement is better color accuracy and redesigned lamps. The 3D is ok for watching movies, but it's still probably going to be a bit rough with ghosting once the hours on the lamp gets up there.
post #805 of 2107
Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

4810 is a bigger jump since it has E-Shift 2. I would not upgrade from an RS-45 to RS-46, and I've seen both. The 3D is better on the RS-46, but the only real 2D improvement is better color accuracy and redesigned lamps. The 3D is ok for watching movies, but it's still probably going to be a bit rough with ghosting once the hours on the lamp gets up there.

Thank you, coderguy. In that case I will hang on a little longer to my RS45 and wait for JVC's announcements at CEDIA.
-Melgon
post #806 of 2107
Over 300 hours on my x35.No noticeable drop in brightness.Still absolutely no ghosting
whatsoever..Not even a hint guys,even with Crosstalk cancel at max brightness.
I think the big improvement with this current JVC series is all the wrinkles and there were a few have been ironed out.
Not hearing about any lamp failures or dimming yet from the wider community.
post #807 of 2107
Quote:
Originally Posted by merc10 View Post

Over 300 hours on my x35.No noticeable drop in brightness.Still absolutely no ghosting
whatsoever..Not even a hint guys,even with Crosstalk cancel at max brightness.
I think the big improvement with this current JVC series is all the wrinkles and there were a few have been ironed out.
Not hearing about any lamp failures or dimming yet from the wider community.

Not everyone can see crosstalk unless its an extreme level of it. It depends how our brains are wired. I have had an X7, X70 and now X75. I have also seen an X35. I can tell you that ALL of them, from now, out of the box DO have crosstalk. However the latest models are substantially better for Blu-ray. Nevertheless there are ways to provoke it. Try watching a 60Hz source such as TV, and then enable the 2D->3D conversion and its crosstalk city. That being said perhaps it still won't cross your tolerance threshold.

I was very critical of the X70 for crosstalk as were others. I had friends over and they wondered what I was moaning about as they couldn't see it. Also, with different scenes, depending if you are right eyed or left eyed, you may or may not see the same thing as someone else. Just like we are right or left handed, we are also right or left eyed. To see this hold a finger up near your nose and let your eyes blur so that you see two fingers. One will be more ghost like than the other. Close one eye in turn and figure out which eye it is that sees the solid version and you can work out which type you are.

Consider the infamous tree scene in the IMAX Grand Canyon title. If you are right eyed you will not see the crosstalk but if you are left eyed you will for that scene. If you turn the glasses upside down, this reverses.

I noticed the X7 crosstalk performance was better for Blu-ray than the X70 but less bright. The X75 achieves the brightness of the X70 but the crosstalk performance of the X7. I had a theory that the X7 actually refreshed at 96Hz for Blu-ray (24*4), but that the X70 was at 120Hz. I think they may have gone back to 96Hz again. I state this theory, because I also noticed that the crosstalk of side by side 50/60Hz, or PS3 720p/60 Frame packed, is still not great and doesn't show the same level of improvement as Blu-ray.

A while ago it was hypothesized that projectors may vary from unit to unit. This was disproven by people taking shots through the lenses of glasses which revealed the same amount of crosstalk, but the human factor could not be ignored! Some people tune into it...some people do not.

Note: This does not factor in the increased crosstalk that does take place on individual units as the bulb dims and generates less heat (earlier models)
post #808 of 2107
Quote:
Originally Posted by JonStatt View Post

Not everyone can see crosstalk unless its an extreme level of it. It depends how our brains are wired. I have had an X7, X70 and now X75. I have also seen an X35. I can tell you that ALL of them, from now, out of the box DO have crosstalk. However the latest models are substantially better for Blu-ray. Nevertheless there are ways to provoke it. Try watching a 60Hz source such as TV, and then enable the 2D->3D conversion and its crosstalk city. That being said perhaps it still won't cross your tolerance threshold.

I was very critical of the X70 for crosstalk as were others. I had friends over and they wondered what I was moaning about as they couldn't see it. Also, with different scenes, depending if you are right eyed or left eyed, you may or may not see the same thing as someone else. Just like we are right or left handed, we are also right or left eyed. To see this hold a finger up near your nose and let your eyes blur so that you see two fingers. One will be more ghost like than the other. Close one eye in turn and figure out which eye it is that sees the solid version and you can work out which type you are.

Consider the infamous tree scene in the IMAX Grand Canyon title. If you are right eyed you will not see the crosstalk but if you are left eyed you will for that scene. If you turn the glasses upside down, this reverses.

I noticed the X7 crosstalk performance was better for Blu-ray than the X70 but less bright. The X75 achieves the brightness of the X70 but the crosstalk performance of the X7. I had a theory that the X7 actually refreshed at 96Hz for Blu-ray (24*4), but that the X70 was at 120Hz. I think they may have gone back to 96Hz again. I state this theory, because I also noticed that the crosstalk of side by side 50/60Hz, or PS3 720p/60 Frame packed, is still not great and doesn't show the same level of improvement as Blu-ray.

A while ago it was hypothesized that projectors may vary from unit to unit. This was disproven by people taking shots through the lenses of glasses which revealed the same amount of crosstalk, but the human factor could not be ignored! Some people tune into it...some people do not.

Note: This does not factor in the increased crosstalk that does take place on individual units as the bulb dims and generates less heat (earlier models)

Jon, this is great info, I forgot about the preferred eye affects how crosstalk is seen.

I closely studied the Pre-firmware RS46 and the RS4810 in a stack. There is a difference in contrast / detail between the 2. Whatever they did to make this change to reduce the x-talk, it makes me think there was a way to do the same exact thing to the RS55/X70. The pre-firmware RS46 appeared identical in every way compared to the RS55.

RS46/X35 Pre-firmware


3D-Shootout15.jpg

RS4810

3D-Shootout16.jpg

RS46/X35 Pre-firmware

3D-Shootout13.jpg

RS4810

3D-Shootout14.jpg

Also, the pre-firmware RS46 had much less image noise in 3D than the RS4810, so that's further indication that something with the signal was tweaked. it wasn't visible from seating distance, but was a clear difference close up.

I also noticed that turning up the crosstalk control from 0 -> 8 didn't really impact the x-talk that much. It made it brighter, so for the little extra that it revealed, I would probably run it at 8 just to get decent lumen out. There was a ~300 delta between CT @ 0 and CT @ 8


I can tell you that on the Sharp 30K 3D DLP it doesn't matter if one is left eye or right eye, there is no chance of crosstalk on the DLP's. biggrin.gif

sharp4.jpg
post #809 of 2107
Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post


Also, the pre-firmware RS46 had much less image noise in 3D than the RS4810, so that's further indication that something with the signal was tweaked. it wasn't visible from seating distance, but was a clear difference close up.

I also noticed that turning up the crosstalk control from 0 -> 8 didn't really impact the x-talk that much. It made it brighter, so for the little extra that it revealed, I would probably run it at 8 just to get decent lumen out. There was a ~300 delta between CT @ 0 and CT @ 8




Based on the fact that the first RS46s had the wrong firmware that behaved like last year, I would agree with you, that if JVC wanted, you could probably update last years models with the new 3D firmware! If true, it is a bit naughty that JVC don't offer it, even as a cost offering.

Interesting about the noise difference. The biggest thing I see is the reduced edge sharpening on the newer firmware, which of course helps crosstalk. I found that crosstalk cancel up to +6 just made the image brighter. But I found those last 2 clicks really did make crosstalk worse.
post #810 of 2107
I have a question. I have a JVC rs46 that runs to a onkyo 818. They claim that the video processor in it is pretty good. Should I let the onkyo video do some work for video or should I run it straight through to JVC?
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