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Official JVC DLA-RS46 / DLA-X35 owners thread - Page 4

post #91 of 903
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragon Reborn View Post

I had a chance to do some PS3 gaming on my JVC. I played about 30 minutes of F1 2010. I used to play this a lot and would place in the top 250 in lap times on the Playstation Network, so I do have a fair bit of experience racing. I am not a FPS kind of gamer.
Using my racing wheel, at no time did I feel the game was laggy. Paddle shifting while using manual transmission was quick and responsive. Steering was equally responsive. The JVC was set to Natural mode, and with CMD set to off. Setting CMD to low or high noticeably smoothed motion, but there seemed to be slightly more lag; however, wheel responses were still playable, maybe just not as quick.
Sorry, but I can't do any definitive lag measurements.

Thanks for posting this. Even though I don't plan on using the JVC for gaming, prefer it on my 30" HP ZR30W. I can't wait to try and see how FSX feels on a 120" screen. Should be epic!
post #92 of 903
post #93 of 903
Thread Starter 

Thank you for the review, kraine. It has been added to post #1. smile.gif

One thing I have to disagree with ... Are you sure about those audible noise measurements? Because in low lamp mode, the JVC is MUCH MUCH MUCH quieter than my Optoma HD72 which was rated at 27db, so I'm inclined to believe it really is ~21-22 db as stated in the literature. And in high lamp mode, it is only a little louder than my Optoma, I'd guess in the high 20s or low 30s.

Also, did you experience any of these 3D ghosting issues that have been reported online?
post #94 of 903
Just running my first calibration on my X35. I'm using Chromapure autocal with my Lumagen. I've got a good greyscale straight away and even gained some brightness over my initial quick and dirty settings due to a brighter colour temperature (the default 6500K was a little too red) and I've decided to clip at 245 rather than show 255 (I used to clip at 235 with my HD350 so even that is an improvement). I went from 92 Lux peak white to just over 100 lux on my 1.5 gain screen. This is at minimum zoom and aperture at -15 so I'm enjoying the maximum contrast and still getting around 14fL (100 Lux x 0.929 x 1.5).

I'll post some results later to show the initial as found calibration and then the autocal results. I've done the gamut using both standard and wide so I can compare which gives the best results along with my Lumagen.
post #95 of 903
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragon Reborn View Post

Thank you for the review, kraine. It has been added to post #1. smile.gif
One thing I have to disagree with ... Are you sure about those audible noise measurements? Because in low lamp mode, the JVC is MUCH MUCH MUCH quieter than my Optoma HD72 which was rated at 27db, so I'm inclined to believe it really is ~21-22 db as stated in the literature. And in high lamp mode, it is only a little louder than my Optoma, I'd guess in the high 20s or low 30s.
Also, did you experience any of these 3D ghosting issues that have been reported online?

I have to agree. Going from 21db to 31db is not a small but a major jump in audible noise.
Others have said low lamp in the 45 and 46 were very similar. The big move was the higher noise in high lamp on the 46 compared to the 45.
post #96 of 903
Just a few results to show how the colour gamuts measure up at 75%. These are with the CMS in my Lumagen set to 'Off'. I hadn't realised that changing the colour space setting effects the greyscale, so my second autocal was a waste of time as I didn't redo the greyscale (colour space set to Standard) when I changed the colour space to Wide for the second attempt at CMS. rolleyes.gif Anyway, as the lamp will drift so quickly I'll get chance to run a full autocal in Wide another time.

This also means that only the standard colour space result below had the white set correctly (see the dE vaules), though the 'off' setting is still only 0.7dE for white so plenty good enough. I'll recheck the wide readings another time and repost them.

X35 colour space off 75%.pdf 1062k .pdf file

X35 colour space standard 75%.pdf 1062k .pdf file

X35 colour space wide 75%.pdf 1063k .pdf file
post #97 of 903
Thread Starter 
I may be missing something here, but what exactly is the point of having the RJ45 LAN port if I can control the JVC using the remote control? I've heard about an upcoming JVC iPhone app, but again, what would that do that the remote can't? Not trying to be a smart-*** about it, just genuinely curious. smile.gif
post #98 of 903
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragon Reborn View Post

I may be missing something here, but what exactly is the point of having the RJ45 LAN port if I can control the JVC using the remote control? I've heard about an upcoming JVC iPhone app, but again, what would that do that the remote can't? Not trying to be a smart-*** about it, just genuinely curious. smile.gif

The Lan Port was used for firmware upgrades in the past. I think they now have a hidden usb port on the new models.
post #99 of 903
Came home to a pleasant surprise. It wasn't scheduled to be delivered until tomorrow, but UPS came a day early.

post #100 of 903
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by rwestley View Post

The Lan Port was used for firmware upgrades in the past. I think they now have a hidden usb port on the new models.

Ok thanks. If that's its only real use, then it's probably not even worth it to run cat5 in the ceiling to keep it permanently connected.
post #101 of 903
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragon Reborn View Post

Thank you for the review, kraine. It has been added to post #1. smile.gif
One thing I have to disagree with ... Are you sure about those audible noise measurements? Because in low lamp mode, the JVC is MUCH MUCH MUCH quieter than my Optoma HD72 which was rated at 27db, so I'm inclined to believe it really is ~21-22 db as stated in the literature. And in high lamp mode, it is only a little louder than my Optoma, I'd guess in the high 20s or low 30s.
Also, did you experience any of these 3D ghosting issues that have been reported online?

Hey Dragon Rebond smile.gif About my noise measurement, I totally agree the X35 is very quiet in low mode lampe mode but with my sound meter and in my environnement, I'm not able to get a measure under 30DB so 31DB is a very good value.
post #102 of 903
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by wildcard011 View Post

Thanks for posting this. Even though I don't plan on using the JVC for gaming, prefer it on my 30" HP ZR30W. I can't wait to try and see how FSX feels on a 120" screen. Should be epic!

Zombie10k just posted some lag results: 80ms

So, still not a projector for the hardcore gamer and probably just for the casual gamer.

Added his result to post 1.
post #103 of 903
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragon Reborn View Post

I finally got my JVC mounted. For aesthetics, I wanted this as close to the ceiling as possible, so that's why there's no extension pole. The lens centre ends up being 7.5" from the ceiling drywall, and will be 11.5" above the screen top.

Dragon-Are you projecting on a 16:9 or 2.35:1 screen? I'm guessing 16:9 since your lens is above the top of screen. I'll be using a 2.35:1 screen and my understanding is that I need to have the center of the lens no higher than the top of the screen in order for the lens memory to keep both 16:9 and 2.35 images on the screen. Is that correct?
post #104 of 903
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post

Dragon-Are you projecting on a 16:9 or 2.35:1 screen? I'm guessing 16:9 since your lens is above the top of screen. I'll be using a 2.35:1 screen and my understanding is that I need to have the center of the lens no higher than the top of the screen in order for the lens memory to keep both 16:9 and 2.35 images on the screen. Is that correct?

Here's my setup:

I have a 100" 16:9 screen with the lens 11.5" above the top of the screen. Screen height is 49" which, in calculations, should allow up to 14.7" of vertical shift (80% of screen height). I also have top/bottom masking panels that I move into position when needed for 2.35:1, making the lens 17.5" above the screen.

I'm not sure about your question. Do you have an anamorphic lens? Or were you planning to zoom in on 2.35:1 content and allow for the black borders to spill onto the wall (or blackout cloth etc...)?


Edit: either way, wouldn't you still be able to shift up to 80% of your screen height? ... which would still allow you to place the projector above the top of the screen?
Edited by Dragon Reborn - 12/11/12 at 9:36am
post #105 of 903
80 ms lag frown.gif
JVC is hopeless from a gamer point of view...
post #106 of 903
^ go the 2 projector setup route, works well for me.
post #107 of 903
Quote:
Originally Posted by straxjam View Post

80 ms lag frown.gif
JVC is hopeless from a gamer point of view...

I wonder if there is some sort of panel or hardware limitation preventing them from improving this since people have been asking for improvement here since the RS1 and no progress has been made. I would think a gaming mode which turns off all processing, etc.....could be incorporated to get some improvement, but maybe not? confused.gif
post #108 of 903
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Toe View Post

I wonder if there is some sort of panel or hardware limitation preventing them from improving this since people have been asking for improvement here since the RS1 and no progress has been made. I would think a gaming mode which turns off all processing, etc.....could be incorporated to get some improvement, but maybe not? confused.gif

Do you think that an adjustment of the "advanced" picture settings would help?

E.g. setting sharpness and noise reduction values to zero, and color space to off.
post #109 of 903
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragon Reborn View Post

Here's my setup:
I have a 100" 16:9 screen with the lens 11.5" above the top of the screen. Screen height is 49" which, in calculations, should allow up to 14.7" of vertical shift (80% of screen height). I also have top/bottom masking panels that I move into position when needed for 2.35:1, making the lens 17.5" above the screen.
I'm not sure about your question. Do you have an anamorphic lens? Or were you planning to zoom in on 2.35:1 content and allow for the black borders to spill onto the wall (or blackout cloth etc...)?
Edit: either way, wouldn't you still be able to shift up to 80% of your screen height? ... which would still allow you to place the projector above the top of the screen?

I have a 2.35:1 screen without an anamorphic lens. I'll be using the lens memory feature to go between 2.35 and 16:9. 2.35 images will fill the screen and 16:9 will be zoomed down with vertical black bars. I was under the impression that even with lens memory, I wouldn't be able to do this with consistent results if the lens was above the top of the screen. Are vertical lens shift settings saved as part of the lens memory feature, in addition to zoom settings?
Edited by Spaceman - 12/11/12 at 10:21am
post #110 of 903
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragon Reborn View Post

Do you think that an adjustment of the "advanced" picture settings would help?
E.g. setting sharpness and noise reduction values to zero, and color space to off.

Your guess is as good as mine. smile.gif I doubt that these adjustments would help, but dont know for sure.
post #111 of 903
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragon Reborn View Post

Do you think that an adjustment of the "advanced" picture settings would help?
E.g. setting sharpness and noise reduction values to zero, and color space to off.

Depending on what other processing (if any) you are going to do then the choice of colour space might be impacted: Wide might be a better option for those with Lumagen or DVDO outboard CMS, but without external CMS I'd suggest that Standard seems to be pretty good judging from my measurements last night prior to my calibration.

I've left my sharpness (and detail) at zero as I did with my HD350 as anything above zero starts to effect the chromaplate burst pattern causing ringing or other effects. I use my Darbee to help provide the effect of sharpness anyway. I know some like to crank up the setting, but it only seems to add ringing (in the form of a white line round dark objects and visa versa) and on my older HD350 I reckon it caused a kind of micro judder as well.
post #112 of 903
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelvin1965S View Post

Depending on what other processing (if any) you are going to do then the choice of colour space might be impacted: Wide might be a better option for those with Lumagen or DVDO outboard CMS, but without external CMS I'd suggest that Standard seems to be pretty good judging from my measurements last night prior to my calibration.
I've left my sharpness (and detail) at zero as I did with my HD350 as anything above zero starts to effect the chromaplate burst pattern causing ringing or other effects. I use my Darbee to help provide the effect of sharpness anyway. I know some like to crank up the setting, but it only seems to add ringing (in the form of a white line round dark objects and visa versa) and on my older HD350 I reckon it caused a kind of micro judder as well.

I think he was asking in reference to lag and if those type of changes could improve things in that area.
post #113 of 903
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post

Dragon-Are you projecting on a 16:9 or 2.35:1 screen? I'm guessing 16:9 since your lens is above the top of screen. I'll be using a 2.35:1 screen and my understanding is that I need to have the center of the lens no higher than the top of the screen in order for the lens memory to keep both 16:9 and 2.35 images on the screen. Is that correct?

The center of the lens can be a max of 30% image height above the image and work for lens memory on a 2.35 screen. This of course is based on not using any horizontal lens shift. the use of horizontal lens shift subtracts from the available amount of vertical lens shift.
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post #114 of 903
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelvin1965S View Post

Depending on what other processing (if any) you are going to do then the choice of colour space might be impacted: Wide might be a better option for those with Lumagen or DVDO outboard CMS, but without external CMS I'd suggest that Standard seems to be pretty good judging from my measurements last night prior to my calibration.
I've left my sharpness (and detail) at zero as I did with my HD350 as anything above zero starts to effect the chromaplate burst pattern causing ringing or other effects. I use my Darbee to help provide the effect of sharpness anyway. I know some like to crank up the setting, but it only seems to add ringing (in the form of a white line round dark objects and visa versa) and on my older HD350 I reckon it caused a kind of micro judder as well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Toe View Post

I think he was asking in reference to lag and if those type of changes could improve things in that area.
Correct. smile.gif

Maybe Zombie10k could chime in on this since he has the tools needed to measure lag accurately?

Regarding sharpness, I did turn down the sharpness to 10 & 10 on the Natural profile because the default of 30 & 10 was definitely causing haloing. I think Cinema default was 20 & 10 (which I also turned down to 10 & 10 for now). No Darbee.
post #115 of 903
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post

I have a 2.35:1 screen without an anamorphic lens. I'll be using the lens memory feature to go between 2.35 and 16:9. 2.35 images will fill the screen and 16:9 will be zoomed down with vertical black bars. I was under the impression that even with lens memory, I wouldn't be able to do this with consistent results if the lens was above the top of the screen. Are vertical lens shift settings saved as part of the lens memory feature, in addition to zoom settings?

Yes, The JVC projectors have independent memory for lens shift, zoom and focus. So you could actually have two or more different aspect screens and different throw distances and as long as you do not exceed the throw, zoom or lens shift requirements you could hit both screens properly.
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post #116 of 903
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post

I have a 2.35:1 screen without an anamorphic lens. I'll be using the lens memory feature to go between 2.35 and 16:9. 2.35 images will fill the screen and 16:9 will be zoomed down with vertical black bars. I was under the impression that even with lens memory, I wouldn't be able to do this with consistent results if the lens was above the top of the screen. Are vertical lens shift settings saved as part of the lens memory feature, in addition to zoom settings?

Quote:
Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 5 View Post

Yes, The JVC projectors have independent memory for lens shift, zoom and focus. So you could actually have two or more different aspect screens and different throw distances and as long as you do not exceed the throw, zoom or lens shift requirements you could hit both screens properly.


Spaceman: in fact, it can store up to 5 lens settings in memory (shift, zoom, focus). And the lens setting can be locked if needed. And so far, the memory setting function has been perfectly accurate.

Edit:
But if you can, place it at the shortest throw since you'll lose some lumens when zoomed into 2.35:1. The ProjectorCentral calculator should help you with that.
Edited by Dragon Reborn - 12/11/12 at 11:37am
post #117 of 903
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragon Reborn View Post

For some reason, that's the only part of the HDMV disc that won't play. It gets hung up. Thanks anyways, I just realized there is a MP4 download version that I'll try.

Update: the MP4 files played fine on my PS3 (with USB stick attached).

My convergence was perfect for the vertical bars. Horizontally, only blue was off by ~ 1/2 a pixel, but since the X35 only allows for 1.0 pixel adjustments, I left it alone. But I can see how this would drive some OCD types batty. wink.gif
post #118 of 903
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragon Reborn View Post

Correct. smile.gif
Maybe Zombie10k could chime in on this since he has the tools needed to measure lag accurately?
Regarding sharpness, I did turn down the sharpness to 10 & 10 on the Natural profile because the default of 30 & 10 was definitely causing haloing. I think Cinema default was 20 & 10 (which I also turned down to 10 & 10 for now). No Darbee.

Oh I see. redface.gif I thought you meant more generally, I'd overlooked the lag part as it's off my radar.

Highly recommend trying the Darbee as it saved me buying the X55 just for the Eshift (I already have the CMS covered by Lumagen anyway). Probably find that even on 10 & 10 there is some ringing, but likely only noticeable on test patterns, so if you prefer it, then why not? smile.gif
post #119 of 903
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelvin1965S View Post

Oh I see. redface.gif I thought you meant more generally, I'd overlooked the lag part as it's off my radar.
Highly recommend trying the Darbee as it saved me buying the X55 just for the Eshift (I already have the CMS covered by Lumagen anyway). Probably find that even on 10 & 10 there is some ringing, but likely only noticeable on test patterns, so if you prefer it, then why not? smile.gif

I agree re: Eshift, especially since I sit at 1.7-1.8x.

But that doesn't rule out a future Darbee purchase. Other expenses for now. smile.gif
post #120 of 903
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragon Reborn View Post

Correct. smile.gif
Maybe Zombie10k could chime in on this since he has the tools needed to measure lag accurately?

I've tried toggling all the settings I could find, it's still ~80ms.
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