Klipsch RW-12d on sale for $299 at Newegg.com again today! - Page 41

Yup, $750 is different. 

I'm sure you'll be happy with your choice.

Any idea how this stacks up compared to the Infinity PS-212? (Currently the high bidder on one for like 50 bucks!) I was also looking at a Klipsch for 60 dollars on Craigslist. I doubt I'll get any sub better than the RW-12D for 299.99 new.

Just received mine this evening. Yes, the port tube was loose, but I have skinny arms and just reached into the tube and pressed it back into place. Seems like it will stay as it feels tight against the rim. I'll keep checking it to see if it becomes loose again. This subwoofer is huge too! Very impressive!

I tested it with "The War of the Worlds" scene where the tripod bellows. Wow! What a shake! The opening beach scene of "Saving Private Ryan" really kicks you in the chest too!

Now, for the juicy questions ... what are the best settings for this subwoofer? FLAT? PUNCH? How many dB?

Oh ... I'll definitely pick up another one to place on the opposite side of the room.
Edited by Colton - 3/12/13 at 5:40pm

Do the sub crawl if you have flexibility on placement. Set mine to Depth, LPF to off, Phase at 0, I had to run it down to about -20 and run Audessey or any room correction you have. In my room the Audessey had it about -4db. After that I tweaked my main speakers back to small upped the crossover to 80 in fronts and 110 for surrounds and backs jacked the sub up to -1 (+3 from Aud setting). Now saved on the sub as 'movies'. I am very happy. Enjoy!

I was wondering why anyone would choose the Candence over the Klipsch, not saying anything against the choice just saying I have never seen anything that would make me think of it. The specs sure don't show it as good, but I know those can deceive.

There is a pro review with measurements that shows the cadence has a high rolloff. RW-12d would be much better for HT.

What is a "sub crawl" and how is it done?

Place the subwoofer at your main listening position and play some music or a movie scene with lots of bass. Get on your hands and knees and "crawl" around the perimeter of the room. Listen and note where the bass sounds strong and tight. That will most likely be the best position for your subwoofer.

Here is one article on it http://www.audioholics.com/tweaks/speaker-setup-guidelines/crawling-for-bass-subwoofer-placement

In brief: Put the sub in your main listening position yes, up in the sofa or chair, best would be ear height but I didn't go that far. Then play your favorite song, movie chapter or maybe better pink noise, Crawl around on the floor in the places you could possibly place the sub and find the position with the best bass response. Put your sub there.
Edit it would be a good idea to make a video of you doing this so we can see if you did it right.

Here's a good video.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AV3oLLMgS-M

You are going to need a really long RCA cable for the bear crawl though. I've been thinking about doing it, but my RCA cable isn't that long.

No, he was actually wondering about the SVS vs Hsu subs.

there is more to a sub then just specs and measurements, how it sounds is also very important. And the user that wanted to know about the Cadence vs Klipsch wanted a sub just for music. Now I havent listened to both these subs yet but from what I have gathered from reviews and user feedback, the Cadence is better geared towards music. So I would have to agree with the user that recommended the Cadence over the Klipsch for music. Now if it was for HT, it's hard not to recommend the Klipsch. I'll have the Cadence in 2 days and hope to have the Klipsch sometime after that so I can compare them. But money is tight and I might not be able to get the Klipsch so hopefully I can find someone close by that has it. Either way, I'll report back on the Cadence in the Cadence thread

FYI . . . Sale with code ended 11 march.  Newegg kicked sale on again yesterday with no coupon code.  On sale at $299 with free shipping . . . as long as they last. . . They might be making more still with old stock.  

 

I have a pair of Heresy 1.5s.  You say, there is no such thing.  True, but 1.5 is the unofficial nomenclature for Heresyes built after the early modern Heresy was discontinued and they started building Heresy IIs.  Some late year 1984s and came stock with some parts from Heresy Is and some parts with Heresy IIs . . . Until they ran out of old Heresy I parts from the stock bins all together.  

 

These late build 1984 Heresys with some 1985 parts are unofficially referred to as Heresy 1.5.  

 

So, it is possible there upon discontinuing no,new Klipsch RW12d parts were made, but as long as parts were in stock, Klipsch would continue to build RW12Ds from parts no longer made, but still in stock.  So, say a year from now, when there are no more NIB RW12Ds, you may be able to call Klipsch to get a part replaced under warranty, or buy parts 10 years from now, saw a frill, if they still have it in stock and if that NOS of that part is still in hand with Klipsch.

 

So, for the RW-12D no new parts are manufactured after are secured, but subs would continue to be built long after discontinuation if there are enough parts on hand to continue making them . . . To move them, they are of course discount, and made, until one of the parts is emptied out of stock . . . Then, magically no new discontinued RW-12ds enter the pipeline.

 

Are the RW12-D's discontinued?  Yes.  Are new parts being made? Some third,party parts, sure.  Can a discontinued sub still be assembled new?  Yes, as long as all of the  on hand/supplied parts are available.  When one unique part of the RW-12d becomes unavailable, (say, the cabinet), then when the leftover parts prove not enough to assemble one sub all of the remaining parts on hand become NOS part for sale, parts to be sold individually until they are gone.

Looks like with the V.me promo code it can be had for $270. Newegg only lets you use one promo code at a time and normaly this sub is $300+ change with a promo code bringing it to $299 or $280. Today it is $299 flat, so add in the VMEPROMOMAR13 promo and pay with V.me and it should hit $270. Nice deal.

I love this subwoofer so much I'm going to purchase another one. That should keep my guests more than satisfied when the boom booms happen on screen.

I changed my setting to DEPTH and it really feels good. Would it be smart to set the other one (when I get it) to the same or mix it up and set it to PUNCH?

... and ordered with the V.me discount!!! Saved me $30!!! THANK YOU!
Edited by Colton - 3/13/13 at 4:51pm

I'm going to guess, set the 2nd to punch. I'm paring this with a BIC F12 and I think comparing it to your situation, in my case the BIC provides the punch and the Klip the depth. That's just my thoughts.

 

IMO, Let your eq (room balancing) software built into your AVR decide, if your avr eqs two subs simultaneously like some do.

 

Otherwise,, I recommend you set both subs the same to start . . . Listen for a while that way (hours or days) for your ears to experience and establish a baseline for your real world experience; then start tweaking one of the subs  . . To see what you like best.  Tweak with them both . . . They are your subs . . . Do it your way.  :-)

 

Or, get an SPL meter, and REW software on your laptop/computer and let the measuring and stats tell you what you are supposed to like, if measurable statistical results are more in your comfort zone.

Those of you with port tube problems (IE: anyone who bought from newegg). Is it a matter of pushing it back into place or pulling? It is large at the front end and small at the far end when putting arm inside. And it seems to get pretty snug if I pull it toward the opening. I did that and now it's pretty snug is that the right way or is there a fitting on the bank end I'm supposed to push it to?
Edited by Elrowyn - 3/14/13 at 8:46am

You would pull it toward the opening in the front. It just kind of slides into place. If looking at the sub you would put your hand in and pull towards yourself. You will notice when it is back in place properly. There shouldn't be any gaps.

My arm/hand were too big to grip all the way in so I just put my hand in as far as I could and made a fist. I then turned my hand to put pressure on the sides and pulled down.

You have done it properly and there is nothing in the back to be concerned about. If you dont glue it or something it may rattle or vibrate loose. Keep an eye on it.

yep that's what I did.

And to the question of flat, depth, or punch? I like depth myself. That's the mode that I feel gives that feeling of deep bass without any struggle. When I put it in punch mode it just seems to feel simular to my BIC and I don't want a $300 woofer that feels about the same as the one I'm replacing.

I haven't needed to glue the port tube. No rattles or vibrations so far and it fits very snuggly.

I have been leaving it on depth for now..esp for movies. I could see switching to punch for music though.

That is what most people do. Depth provides more of the very low freq that are more in movies. Punch provides more of the mid bass that you would hear more in music.

FWIW after doing meansurements in my own room.. The only difference between depth/punch is about 3-4 DB's in the 60HZ range

Good stuff, will use that tip.

I'll set both subwoofers to DEPTH and enjoy!

Can anyone please explain to me the difference between PUNCH and DEPTHoptions.... Like in dumbness terms please lol.

I can't really notice much difference in the two. I've been trying to find one setting that works for boths music and movies.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1390563/klipsch-rw-12d-omnimic-frequency-response-graphs

Take a look at the graphs and it'll show you the difference. Depth has the flattest response.

Flattest response in that room. Not the same thing, but might be a good indicator. Best would be to take measurements in your own room. Room plays a huge role.

From what I remember flat is supposed to be the flattest, depth was to add a bit at the lower end, punch a bit more in the mid bass range...