Klipsch RW-12d on sale for $299 at Newegg.com again today! - Page 42

^^ What he said..

In my room there is hardly a difference between "Flat", "depth" and "Punch"... the only difference from my measurements was that punch boosted around 60hz by 3-4 DB

I should have mentioned that. Depth seems to be what most people are settling on. Whether flat or not, it seems to be the preferred setting by most.

I changed mine to DEPTH and play a few movies and music, and it seemed to sound better. Punch sounded more pronounced / more power, but with Depth is sounded a little bit more smooth. So I kept it at Depth.

That's how I feel. I like the smooth "low" it seems to give. Anyway I paired this with the BIC America F12 and woah, what a combo. Depth that rips at my gut and punch that punches me in the chest. And so much more effortless without muffled sound like with the BIC alone.

Question though, is the hz (I think) setting what dictates when the sub is "called upon"? I have been thinking of lowering them but right now I have both the subs set at 80 and at about half volume. It's almost too much bass, (not muffled bass, just strong overpowering bass). What would be a good setting to put the depth sub on vs the punch sub. Should the BIC be set just a tad higher or lower? Right now it sounds great but I want to perfect it.

I would suggest for you to try it out. Change the hz and see which one you end up liking. I'm thinking of getting a second sub. I might go with another RW12D. I'm not sure. I like the SVS 1000's for $500.

Good idea or bad idea?

Get two subs and have one set for depth at 80hz and the other for punch at 120hz.

Bad.. IIRC anything above 80 hz becomes less "omnidirectional" it will probably sound off when the one plays over the 80hz mark the sub will sound more localized rather than seem to fill the room.

actually whether a device emits sound more or less omnidirectionally has to do, at least with typical sub designs, with the fact that the wave length is much longer than the dimensions of the cab so it wraps around. Whether sound is localizable is completely unrelated, although the thing you usually see is ineed that folks can localize with crossovers above 80 Hz. There are, or were, massively expensive odd looking speakers from Germany that were truly omnidirectionally in the higher frequencies, and I promise you they still allowed "imaging" and localization . . . despite their omnidirectional radiation pattern. can't pull the name out of my head. they look like they have origami fire hydrants on top of them. That's the driver that covers the higher frequencies.

 

Try it and see if you like it.  IMO the point of two subs is to amplify bass and even out the "feel" of the bass and the sound of the base around the room . . . two subs is to even the bass response sound around the area of your room room, not just to amplify the volume from one place.  I would set them both the same, listen for a while, and then play with uneven settings to see if that were more pleasing to you.

 

In my HT I have a Martin Logan Depth i sub--three balanced and powered 8" woofers in one box . . . Pretty amazing . . . But all three woofers are never set independently . . .  One setting is duplicated automatically for all three.  While I am content with the sound of the one 3 woofer powered sub sound, I am thinking about getting another ML Depth i to place on the opposite side of the room to balance the feel in every listening position in the room, even though the volume with the one is fine for the room.

 

My RW-12d is in a setup in a much smaller room, with just one listening/viewing  position . . . A second RW-12d in that room would only increase volume in the room with one listening position and would be unnecessary for me in that room, since I could not tolerate without ear damage full volume in the little room 6 ft. away from the single current RW-12d I have.

 

Hope that helps a little.

I think it would be a better idea, if you get two of this. To set one at maybe 75 and depth and the other just slightly above at 85 and punch. 120hz would be just way too high. You'd be hearing boom even with people's voices.

Unfortunately, if you want the "right" answer to that question, you're going to need measurement software such as Room EQ Wizard, which is a great free program with a moderate learning curve:

http://www.hometheatershack.com/roomeq/

I use it with my two mismatched subs and a DSP1124P to get everything to play together nicely.

The easy answer to your question is to just turn down the volume on the subs until you can hear/feel them but they don't call attention to themselves. A SPL meter is also helpful for "level matching," and is an inexpensive way of getting started in room analysis.

And try to remember that sometimes "sounds great" is actually better than "perfect."

You are probably right there. Mine are probably way louder than "normal". But I didn't spend $500 on two different subs to have normal bass. As long as it only shows up when it's supposed to, and sounds clean, I actually want it to be overpowering.

Thats pretty obvious as much as you mention "chest thump".

Thump thump, thump thump. Wait, did my heart skip a beat? Who cares. Thump thump.

$289.99 with ref code EMCYTZT3114 through 3/17.. I suspect Klipsch is continuing to make this sub despite it being "discontinued" for several years, and why not, its a great sub for the money. Keep buying and I'm sure they'll keep producing.

I have an energy s10.3,would this sub be a noticeable upgrade?My room is 11 x 17 with 8 ft ceilings.

Not really. The Energy is probably a little more accurate but the rw has more output. For a room that size I would not say that it is worth the money. If you want to make a real step up you will have to spend more than $300.

As a replacement? No. As an addition? Sure.

+1 I didnt think about that.

Considering buying this sub but was going thru the thread and I see that no one knows if this sub is being put together by Klipsch or someone else.. Are the parts original or some replacement..Can someone shine in before I pull the trigger.....Thanks
Edited by endy0430 - 3/17/13 at 7:04am

What's the validity of your above when compared to all other industries and the origin of their product mix?

The point of my question, is it about consumer satisfaction or point of origin?

Klipsch is still willing to honor the warranty on this product. That should tell you something.

Pull said trigger. Enjoy.

I couldn't recommend them more. I have two of the newer ones and have not had any issues with them. They are awesome!!

It wouldn't be an upgrade as a replacement.

Well I bit the bullet just ordered the sub hopefully it will arrive without any problems.

I got my other Klipsch RW-12d subwoofer the other day. No port tube problem either! Hooked them up and I'm lovin' it!

What volume (+/- dB) do you guys set your subwoofer and receiver?

Other peoples settings would be meaningless. What kind of receiver do you have?

I initially set the RW-12D's volume to 0db and ran my Yamaha's YPAO program. It set the sub to -10db.

The next time I ran YPAO I set the RW-12D to -10db. YPAO set the sub to -10db again. Can't say I understand this, but it sounds good!
I tweaked the sub to -3db and went with it.

Probably because -10 is as far as it can display. It may have actually been -20. So when you turned the sub down it was still too high and you still got the max - reading. Thats why you should keep running it until THE AVR reads close to 0.