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AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › Subwoofers, Bass, and Transducers › Klipsch RW-12d on sale for $299 at Newegg.com again today!
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Klipsch RW-12d on sale for $299 at Newegg.com again today! - Page 58

post #1711 of 2776
Siva...your signature caught my eye

"All men are frauds. The only difference between them is that some admit it. I myself deny it."

I posit that it applies to women too. In fact in a much larger dosage biggrin.gif

but I digress.

I don't do the crawl. I just walk around the room. After all I am not going to be watching movies in the crawl position. biggrin.gif
post #1712 of 2776
Quote:
Originally Posted by sivadselim View Post

Again, I do not think the sub crawl is very useful. wink.gif

I think it's better just to stop our discussion, because I agree with that statement. The sub crawl will only show if there is a dramatic difference in overall response at one place over the other. I have tried one of those sweeps after taking a measurements of subs where the response was pretty bad, and I could easily hear a substantial change in volume where a huge dip to peak was. For whatever that's worth smile.gif
post #1713 of 2776
is this true? i read one of the comments from new egg. so i guess i should turn off the knob and the back of the sub after using it. even i set it up to AUTO ON mode.

Giving this item 1 egg because of the amplifier. The amplifier dies if you don't unplug it after each use. This is what klipsch told me. The heat from the power expands the wires on the connections. After its unplugged, they cool down and shrink never to be played again. It does have an auto power cutoff, but its not for the amp. Its a 240$ fix minus shipping costs. Because of this I no longer will buy klipsch products. Could be why this sub is priced 700$ below retail.
post #1714 of 2776
Quote:
Originally Posted by caloyzki View Post

is this true? i read one of the comments from new egg. so i guess i should turn off the knob and the back of the sub after using it. even i set it up to AUTO ON mode.

Giving this item 1 egg because of the amplifier. The amplifier dies if you don't unplug it after each use. This is what klipsch told me. The heat from the power expands the wires on the connections. After its unplugged, they cool down and shrink never to be played again. It does have an auto power cutoff, but its not for the amp. Its a 240$ fix minus shipping costs. Because of this I no longer will buy klipsch products. Could be why this sub is priced 700$ below retail.

That is a pretty serious flaw. Who did you call at Klipsch to get that info? Why hasn't anyone else heard that?
post #1715 of 2776
Quote:
Originally Posted by ProfD View Post

That is a pretty serious flaw. Who did you call at Klipsch to get that info? Why hasn't anyone else heard that?

this comment is not from me, from one of the previous owner who also purchased this sub from newegg.

btw, also when i recieved my sub, when i am opening the box, i heard a rattle sounds inside the sub. and see its a tube from the hole of the sub. i am wondering if that will cause anything from the sound of the sub while playing? i havent tried to make it loud, someone got experinced this tube flying after delivery?
post #1716 of 2776
Quote:
Originally Posted by caloyzki View Post

is this true? i read one of the comments from new egg. so i guess i should turn off the knob and the back of the sub after using it. even i set it up to AUTO ON mode.

Giving this item 1 egg because of the amplifier. The amplifier dies if you don't unplug it after each use. This is what klipsch told me. The heat from the power expands the wires on the connections. After its unplugged, they cool down and shrink never to be played again. It does have an auto power cutoff, but its not for the amp. Its a 240$ fix minus shipping costs. Because of this I no longer will buy klipsch products. Could be why this sub is priced 700$ below retail.

If that were true, there would be tons of complaints of dead amps from people in this thread.
post #1717 of 2776

That's the port tube. See the million posts above about fixing it.

Don't panic. Enjoy.

post #1718 of 2776
Quote:
Originally Posted by cel4145 View Post

If that were true, there would be tons of complaints of dead amps from people in this thread.
i know. maybe he is making up story about the sub.
post #1719 of 2776
Quote:
Originally Posted by LastButNotLeast View Post

That's the port tube. See the million posts above about fixing it.
Don't panic. Enjoy.

I just stuck my arm inside the port and pushed it back in place. So far I've been using it and it hasn't came loose.
post #1720 of 2776
Deleted by wvu80, due to a misunderstanding on my part.
Edited by wvu80 - 4/13/13 at 8:54am
post #1721 of 2776
Quote:
Originally Posted by caloyzki View Post

pls go on this link and read the comment number 7, and you will see it from there who comment about that. it wasnt from me i am just posting it here if that is true. to see is to believe or to read is to believe i guess.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=82-780-078&SortField=0&SummaryType=0&Pagesize=10&PurchaseMark=&SelectedRating=1&VideoOnlyMark=False&VendorMark=&IsFeedbackTab=true&Keywords=%28keywords%29&Page=1#scrollFullInfo

Mr. Coloyzki, my sincerest apologies. I didn't realize you were quoting from another post you had found on Newegg. It was that other poster from NEWEGG that looked suspicious to me.

I deleted my entire post (above) because I didn't want to cast any doubts about you, your reputation is solid.
+++

And your use of the English language is fine. smile.gif
post #1722 of 2776
its all good sir. God is good all the time.

btw, how can i adjust the crossover settings on the sub? i am using movie mode but i dont see any crossover settings. thanks.
post #1723 of 2776
Quote:
Originally Posted by caloyzki View Post

btw, how can i adjust the crossover settings on the sub?
If you are using the AVR's crossover setting(s), you should be bypassing the sub's crossover. I don't know what the setting for that might be. "LFE Mode" maybe? Read the manual.
post #1724 of 2776
Quote:
btw, how can i adjust the crossover settings on the sub?
If, as suggested in this post, you set Lowpass to "Lowpass OFF LFE Mode" - given that your AVR will be handling bass management, incl. the crossover - try setting Lowpass to "Lowpass ON". (The low-pass filter (LPF) is the "crossover" on your sub.)

Oh, and read the manual (PDF). smile.gif
post #1725 of 2776
Quote:
Originally Posted by sivadselim View Post

If you are using the AVR's crossover setting(s), you should be bypassing the sub's crossover. I don't know what the setting for that might be. "LFE Mode" maybe? Read the manual.
i dont see it on the included manual. i am using denon 1612 avr, and run the audysy multeq. that was i am thinking too, maybe LFE mode from the sub.
post #1726 of 2776
Quote:
i dont see it on the included manual. ...
From the manual:
Quote:
“Lowpass” - This screen is used to adjust the subwoofer’s upper frequency limit to achieve a proper blend with your system’s main speakers. A higher frequency (Hz) is typically used with smaller, bass limited main speakers and a lower frequency setting is customarily used with larger floorstanding models. This filter can be adjusted from 40Hz to 120Hz, as required, or defeated if the low pass filter function is being performed by your system’s electronics. Use the Left/Right cursor keys to adjust the lowpass filter. To defeat this filter press and hold the Right cursor key until “Lowpass OFF LFE Mode” is displayed. Refer to your surround processor’s owner’s manual for more Bass Management information. From this screen press the down or up cursor key to access other control settings.
post #1727 of 2776
Quote:
Originally Posted by eljaycanuck View Post

If, as suggested in this post, you set Lowpass to "Lowpass OFF LFE Mode" - given that your AVR will be handling bass management, incl. the crossover - try setting Lowpass to "Lowpass ON". (The low-pass filter (LPF) is the "crossover" on your sub.)

Oh, and read the manual (PDF). smile.gif
thanks. this is what i exactly set my movie mode before running the aud. multeq. i set it lowpass OFF LFE mode. i guess i did the right thing? but i am not really sure when i read the audysy faq 101 it says that set the crossover all the way up, before running the aud. maybe lowpass ON LFE mode? how did you set up youres before you run aud?

anyone know what is the IR code on the sub? trying to sync with my universal remote.
Edited by caloyzki - 4/13/13 at 6:35pm
post #1728 of 2776
Quote:
Originally Posted by cel4145 View Post

If that were true, there would be tons of complaints of dead amps from people in this thread.

Agreed. I also think if that were true there would be a lot more posts across the Net pointing to this. I'm confident after all the years I've owned Klipsch products they're not going to sell a product with such an obvious and wide spread flaw. As some posts are created by folks upset with the company for some other reason so they try and give them a bad name.
post #1729 of 2776
Quote:
Originally Posted by caloyzki View Post

anyone know what is the IR code on the sub? trying to sync with my universal remote.

The codes are in the Harmony database. I was able to find these hex codes. Good luck.

 

 

 

philips-pronto-klipsch-subwoofer-codes.zip 15k .zip file
post #1730 of 2776
I am guessing that someone will have to walk him trough it, step by step...
post #1731 of 2776
Quote:
Originally Posted by LastButNotLeast View Post

The codes are in the Harmony database. I was able to find these hex codes. Good luck.



philips-pronto-klipsch-subwoofer-codes.zip 15k .zip file

Thank you. Hopefully my direct tv will work.
post #1732 of 2776
Has anyone done a comparison of the RW-12D vs. the Klipsch Sub-12HG? The HG is downward firing and I wonder how that would matchup with a roughly 10 year old RW-12. Would they work well together or is the 12D a better fit. Amazon has the 12HG at the same price as Newegg has for the 12D. Always happy with Amazon and almost no experience with Newegg. Thanks
post #1733 of 2776
The RW-12d is available, new, from Newegg with a new subwoofer warranty that is supported by Klipsch. Based on what's been reported on AVS, it would be safe to say that it seems that many hundreds of RW-12d's have been bought by readers and posters on this forum myself included and anybody with problems have been made whole by either Newegg or Klipsch with nothing more then normally expected inconveniences that returning a big sub like this is going cause.

As to matching up subs and them getting along with each other, both versions will play and get along well with the RW-12 but to get the best out of any combination, I would recommend using a room measuring program like REW to guide your integration efforts. There's very little that I see in difference other than the RW-12D has a ceramic cone which I would expect to deliver tighter bass than the Sub-12's fiber composite cone.

-
Edited by BeeMan458 - 4/14/13 at 4:02pm
post #1734 of 2776
Quote:
Originally Posted by dsinger View Post

Has anyone done a comparison of the RW-12D vs. the Klipsch Sub-12HG? The HG is downward firing and I wonder how that would matchup with a roughly 10 year old RW-12. Would they work well together or is the 12D a better fit. Amazon has the 12HG at the same price as Newegg has for the 12D. Always happy with Amazon and almost no experience with Newegg. Thanks
An RW-12D is a much better match for an RW-12 than the Sub12. NewEgg is just fine.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BeeMan458 View Post

.............the RW-12D has a ceramic cone which I would expect to deliver tighter bass than the Sub-12's fiber composite cone.
seriously? rolleyes.gif
post #1735 of 2776
Quote:
Has anyone done a comparison of the RW-12D vs. the Klipsch Sub-12HG? ... Would they work well together or is the 12D a better fit. Amazon has the 12HG at the same price as Newegg has for the 12D. Always happy with Amazon and almost no experience with Newegg.
I'd pair an RW-12d with another RW-12d. Also, I've read - and I understand from limited personal experience - that the Sub-12 can become boomy if the crossover is set too high (i.e., significantly above 80Hz). Not sure if this is also an issue with the RW-12d.

As for Newegg.com, it has a good reputation.
Quote:
There's very little that I see in difference other than the RW-12D has a ceramic cone which I would expect to deliver tighter bass than the Sub-12's fiber composite cone.
Curious: All other things apparently being equal, what is it about the RW-12d's ceramic cone that would make it deliver "tighter bass" than the Sub-12's composite cone?
Edited by eljaycanuck - 4/14/13 at 4:23pm
post #1736 of 2776
Quote:
Originally Posted by dsinger View Post

Has anyone done a comparison of the RW-12D vs. the Klipsch Sub-12HG? The HG is downward firing and I wonder how that would matchup with a roughly 10 year old RW-12. Would they work well together or is the 12D a better fit. Amazon has the 12HG at the same price as Newegg has for the 12D. Always happy with Amazon and almost no experience with Newegg. Thanks

This unit has a bit less RMS and Dynamic power than the RW 12D and is/was priced at a lower point than the RW 12D to begin with. I prefer the cone material of the RW 12D, the Cerametallic, to the other as well. I think it produces a tighter and more accurate sound and is still being used on their upper end woofers and speakers. I think that's a big plus.

I'm biased too when it comes to forward vs. down-firing. I think the edge goes to the front firing speaker, IMO. I've had both and the front firing seems to play louder and is more accurate. The down firing sound can lose something depending on the floor type below it too. They say that with a sub, the frequency is too low and that you can't tell the difference, but after having both types, I think the front firing definitely gives a better sound. I also believe that you can still somewhat direct the speaker sound waves because not all frequencies are that low. At least you can exchange it if you don't like the sound.
post #1737 of 2776
Quote:
Originally Posted by eljaycanuck View Post

As for Newegg.com, it has a good reputation.
Curious: All other things apparently being equal, what is it about the RW-12d's ceramic cone that would make it deliver "tighter bass" than the Sub-12's composite cone?

My understanding, stiffer material delivers tighter bass.
post #1738 of 2776
Quote:
Originally Posted by sivadselim View Post

seriously? rolleyes.gif

Regarding cone material? Based on what I've read on the matter .....yes, seriously.
post #1739 of 2776
Quote:
My understanding, stiffer material delivers tighter bass.
FWIW: http://www.data-bass.com/myths
Quote:
7. Cone material affects the sound
For low frequencies, the cone on a subwoofer makes no difference in the sound whatsoever, end of story.

The only remote possible affect it could have is in the case of a metal cone or very stiff composite cone that resonates at a high frequencies and buzzes. However this frequency would be up around 500 to 2000Hz and unless you play the subwoofer at those frequencies, you’ll never hear it. . The cones sole job to push air, not break and ideally not be too heavy. But they don’t change the tone, pitch or sound of a subwoofer whatsoever.
post #1740 of 2776
Quote:
Originally Posted by eljaycanuck View Post

FWIW: http://www.data-bass.com/myths

You asked a question and I answered it. I'm not getting into an argument over what I read and shared.

Either which way, either sub asked about will play and get along well with the SW-12 model subwoofer and for the reason cited, my vote goes to the RW-12D as the differences between the two subs in marginal at best and to me, the cone material is the stand out difference.
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