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New to DIY? FAQ's in here - Page 3

post #61 of 83
Wow, I hadn't looked at this FAQ in a while, and I must say it's looking mighty good! Congrats and thanks to Gorilla83 and all other contributors.

Here's something to add to the WinISD troubleshooting section:


Q: I'm running WinISD on Windows 7, and when I try to exit the program, I get the error message "Access violation at address 00000000. Read of address 00000000". I have to use Task Manager to shut it down.

A: Download the latest version at http://www.linearteam.org/download/winisd-07x.exe. This version is not linked from the Linear Team home page, but WinISD author Juha Hartikainen links to it from his Twitter account.
post #62 of 83
Very good thread Gorilla. I agree that it should be a sticky.
post #63 of 83
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by popalock View Post

Haven't seen this mentioned yet and it looks like it would fit nicely under the "wiring section" of your consolidated post.

Need an idea of the size of wire you need for your application?

Speaker Wire Size Selector Assistant

*Credit - This post by Bill Fitzmaurice.

Thanks PL - added the link to the wiring section.

Quote:
Originally Posted by filtor1 View Post

Today I went searching for threads about router bit selection. Is there any way, maybe under the router section, you could add recommendations for manufacturers of quality bits? I found several threads on the subject and thought it may another idea to add to an already very comprehensive FAQ page.

I've been meaning to elaborate in the woodworking section. The bit selection for each user will vary by how often they will use it, and of course their budget. At the lower end of the price spectrum, the MLCS bits (amazon has them) work very well. I've used many of my MLCS bits dozens of times without a single hiccup. Get 1/2 shank whenever possible - assuming your router supports them. If the bits will be used for more of a profession than a hobby, check out something by Freud. Woodcraft sells a great selection of very high quality bits as well.
Quote:
Originally Posted by rock_bottom View Post

Wow, I hadn't looked at this FAQ in a while, and I must say it's looking mighty good! Congrats and thanks to Gorilla83 and all other contributors.

Here's something to add to the WinISD troubleshooting section:


Q: I'm running WinISD on Windows 7, and when I try to exit the program, I get the error message "Access violation at address 00000000. Read of address 00000000". I have to use Task Manager to shut it down.

A: Download the latest version at http://www.linearteam.org/download/winisd-07x.exe. This version is not linked from the Linear Team home page, but WinISD author Juha Hartikainen links to it from his Twitter account.

Thanks - I wasn't aware of that new version so I'll be installing that myself. smile.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by A9X-308 View Post

Very good thread Gorilla. I agree that it should be a sticky.

Thank you sir - it's becoming more comprehensive each week thanks to the members here. cool.gif
Edited by Gorilla83 - 2/11/13 at 5:29am
post #64 of 83
Sticky !!!
post #65 of 83
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dstew100 View Post

Sticky !!!

Dave - You ready to enter into the DIY world yet? biggrin.gif
post #66 of 83
Quote:
Originally Posted by mtbdudex View Post

Bump - Mod sticky please, these get buried in the daily posts.....

mtbdudex, I reported your post to the moderators - never done that before. Under selections like "profanity" etc. I chose "other" and quickly also asked if they could make this thread a sticky, I hope enough other people do something similar because you are right, if any thread deserves to be a sticky it's this one.
post #67 of 83
Quote:
Originally Posted by carp View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by mtbdudex View Post

Bump - Mod sticky please, these get buried in the daily posts.....

mtbdudex, I reported your post to the moderators - never done that before. Under selections like "profanity" etc. I chose "other" and quickly also asked if they could make this thread a sticky, I hope enough other people do something similar because you are right, if any thread deserves to be a sticky it's this one.

Good idea - I just did the same for your post, with this comment to Mod for the reason "other" [edit] I deleted my original request post, as it's a stick now, will keep this on just for fun.
Quote:
Make sticky please ASAP

Edited by mtbdudex - 3/16/13 at 4:01pm
post #68 of 83
Quote:
Originally Posted by mtbdudex View Post

Bump - Mod sticky please, these get buried in the daily posts.....

I added it to my sig a few weeks ago because I got sick if waiting...lol

I think this quick tutorial should be added on installation of custom 12v triggers for amps.
post #69 of 83
Quote:
Originally Posted by popalock View Post

I added it to my sig a few weeks ago because I got sick if waiting...lol

I think this quick tutorial should be added on installation of custom 12v triggers for amps.

Austin, how do you add a thread to your signature. Obviously I've done it before but I forgot how and can't find it.
post #70 of 83
Thread Starter 
Looks like we made sticky status! Woohoo.

Austin - Thanks for the link. I add that as well as 'not's guide to building an external box. wink.gif

Also - thanks to those linking in their signatures to help spread the DIY spirit. smile.gif
post #71 of 83
Quote:
Originally Posted by carp View Post

Austin, how do you add a thread to your signature. Obviously I've done it before but I forgot how and can't find it.

Maybe, we should add this to the FAQ's...lol

Step 1: Click My Profile
Step 2: Locate 'Your Forum Signature
Step 3: Click on the "Edit Signature" hyperlink
Screen Shot for reference:


Once in your signature if you want to hyperlink to a specific thread here are the steps:

Step 1: Type in your text (i.e. - New to DIY? FAQ's in here)
Step 2: Highlight the text
Step 3: Click the "Link" button (located right next to the Italics button)
Step 4: Paste the thread url (i.e. - http://www.avsforum.com/t/1443078/new-to-diy-faqs-in-here/0_100)

Voilà!

Some may be wondering why the hell I just went through so much detail to post something most people probably already know about. Well, I was at a loss a few weeks ago because I hadn't updated my sig since before the AVS platform update. For some reason I simply could not figure out where I could edit my signature under my profile even though it was CLEARLY staring me directly in the face! I had to reach out to Andrew for assistance, so I figured if one person benefits from this, it's worth it.

biggrin.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gorilla83 View Post

Looks like we made sticky status! Woohoo.
Much deserved!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gorilla83 View Post

Austin - Thanks for the link. I add that as well as 'not's guide to building an external box. wink.gif

Also - thanks to those linking in their signatures to help spread the DIY spirit. smile.gif

Awesome man. I'm going to keep it on my sig block anyway. Fall's inline with what I preach to the masses...
post #72 of 83
Clamps - I need a few more....., or can I get a Bessey strap clamp instead?
I've got an odd assortment of clamps, (2) 18" bar type, (4) 24" bar type, (2) 36" wood type, (2) 12" bar, plus c-clamps and hand clamps, see picture here;
(I've also got 2 pipe clamp's, those are on 6 ft pipes and heavy/bulky)
.


Has anyone tried and liked these Bessey strap clamps?
Seems ideal to grab 4 corners and squeeze the box/odd shape firmly together as glue dries, $30.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_186520-1073-VAS-23_0__?storeNumber=0779&Ntt=bessey+clamps&selectedLocalStoreBeanArray=%5Bcom.lowes.commerce.storelocator.beans.LocatorStoreBean%40227e227e%5D&pl=1&productId=1053233&ipTrail=205.144.100.200&currentURL=%3FNtt%3Dbessey%2Bclamps
Quote:
•Gentle clamping of miter joints, picture frames and endless odd-shaped projects
•Up to 260 lb (120 kg) of clamping force , 15' strap clamp opening: 23 ft (7 m)
•Tensile strength up to 1100 lb (500 kg) , Pulls evenly form both sides for distortion-free clamping
•Swivel pads on corner slips adjust automatically to any angle from 60 to 180 degrees , 23 ft (7 m) strap exerts constant pressure on each angle at every corner


[edit]
good articles I've found as needed during my build::
What is Fiberfill and how does it affect a subwoofer enclosure?

Now, some what I call "best practices" - things to think about - as I've read others build threads.
Best practice: "zip ties to keep the series connection wire from bouncin", from http://www.avsforum.com/t/1453468/stereo-integrity-18-d2-build-sealed#post_22860754


Also from same thread, simple DIY 90deg jig to keep holes square when drilling:


Best practice: Cover your fill with thin netting, from http://www.avsforum.com/t/1415823/2-dayton-titanic-mk-iii-15s-or-1-tc-sounds-lms-r-15/90#post_22583001


Best practice: "I used a 2" flush edge bit for the edges, bondo for the larger cracks, a blunder on my poor edging skills, and screw and nail holes. Then I shaped the edges with a 3/4" round-over bit on the outer edges and a 1/8" round-over for the edge that surrounds the driver.". from http://www.avsforum.com/t/1453468/stereo-integrity-18-d2-build-sealed#post_22860764


Best Practice: fastener to mount driver
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1464218/best-fastener-to-use-when-mounting-sub-drivers-to-mdf#post_23107456

Best Practice: Paint finishes
Quote:
Originally Posted by mtg90 View Post

I would use duratex only if I wanted the durability it offers or the texture/covering ability without needing primer.

My two 10cuft subs I just used some cheap black latex paint from Menards ($15 a gallon) and I think they turned out great. I put three coats on those two enclosures and used about 1/4 the gallon, though the finish is not nearly as durable as the duratex and I needed to use primer.

Primer: Zinsser FastPrime 2, Water Base Primer This stuff works great on MDF only needs one coat then sanding and its ready for paint.
Paint: Lucite Interior Acrylic Latex Satin Paint The guy in the paint department added three times the black pigment recommended as it is more of a dark gray normally.

I also like Rust-Oleum’s latex paint which seems more durable then the cheap latex but the largers size I have found it in is quarts. Rust-Oleum Painter's Touch Multi-Purpose Flat Black

Their oil based flat black is even better then the latex for durability but it is more of a mess to clean up. Rust-Oleum Professional High Performance-Flat Black Low VOC

One other I want to try is this stuff: Conco Interior Exterior Flat Acrylic Water Base Paint But my other black latex will last me a while.

Other on paint:
http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/showpost.php?p=74323&postcount=6
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1465484/help-painting-finishing-one-of-erics-flatpacks#post_23136072

Best pratice: zip tie for easy remove heavy driver http://www.avsforum.com/t/1460745/ultimax-15-deal-of-the-day/30#post_23100837



How to extend the high pass filter below 20hz in DCX2496
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1461489/how-to-extend-the-high-pass-filter-below-20hz-in-dcx2496
Edited by mtbdudex - 4/27/13 at 4:17pm
post #73 of 83
I read on a guitar building FAQ this advice: (I'm paraphrasing) So many people plan and plan and plan their project to make sure they get everything just right. Planning is good, but know when to stop planning and just build it!
post #74 of 83
Quote:
Originally Posted by tuxedocivic View Post

I read on a guitar building FAQ this advice: (I'm paraphrasing) So many people plan and plan and plan their project to make sure they get everything just right. Planning is good, but know when to stop planning and just build it!

-1
post #75 of 83
Quote:
Originally Posted by popalock View Post

-1

frown.gif
post #76 of 83
I'm just getting started, so this is a perfect thread for me, thanks to all!
post #77 of 83
Quote:
Originally Posted by tuxedocivic View Post

frown.gif

You know I'm playing with you man...

smile.gif

Seriously though, I'm all for starting a build sooner than later, but NOTHING pisses me off more than having to make HD pit stops mid-build because I forgot this or that. Worse yet, HD doesn't carry a particular bit and I have to wait a few days for it to come via snail mail...

I'm in the excessive planning crowd because I want to make sure my build goes as smooth as possible.
post #78 of 83
Meh, doesn't bother me. I thought it was a pretty cool piece of advice, but if others don't think so, no big deal. There are a lot of noobs who pm me with questions for months, change their minds a hundred time, and never build anything. They need that push. You're probably not one of them.
post #79 of 83
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mtbdudex View Post

Clamps - I need a few more....., or can I get a Bessey strap clamp instead?
I've got an odd assortment of clamps, (2) 18" bar type, (4) 24" bar type, (2) 36" wood type, (2) 12" bar, plus c-clamps and hand clamps, see picture here;
(I've also got 2 pipe clamp's, those are on 6 ft pipes and heavy/bulky)
.


Has anyone tried and liked these Bessey strap clamps?
Seems ideal to grab 4 corners and squeeze the box/odd shape firmly together as glue dries, $30.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_186520-1073-VAS-23_0__?storeNumber=0779&Ntt=bessey+clamps&selectedLocalStoreBeanArray=%5Bcom.lowes.commerce.storelocator.beans.LocatorStoreBean%40227e227e%5D&pl=1&productId=1053233&ipTrail=205.144.100.200&currentURL=%3FNtt%3Dbessey%2Bclamps


[edit]
good articles I've found as needed during my build::
What is Fiberfill and how does it affect a subwoofer enclosure?

Now, some what I call "best practices" - things to think about - as I've read others build threads.
Best practice: "zip ties to keep the series connection wire from bouncin", from http://www.avsforum.com/t/1453468/stereo-integrity-18-d2-build-sealed#post_22860754


Also from same thread, simple DIY 90deg jig to keep holes square when drilling:


Best practice: Cover your fill with thin netting, from http://www.avsforum.com/t/1415823/2-dayton-titanic-mk-iii-15s-or-1-tc-sounds-lms-r-15/90#post_22583001


Best practice: "I used a 2" flush edge bit for the edges, bondo for the larger cracks, a blunder on my poor edging skills, and screw and nail holes. Then I shaped the edges with a 3/4" round-over bit on the outer edges and a 1/8" round-over for the edge that surrounds the driver.". from http://www.avsforum.com/t/1453468/stereo-integrity-18-d2-build-sealed#post_22860764


Best Practice: fastener to mount driver
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1464218/best-fastener-to-use-when-mounting-sub-drivers-to-mdf#post_23107456

Best Practice: Paint finishes
Other on paint:
http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/showpost.php?p=74323&postcount=6
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1465484/help-painting-finishing-one-of-erics-flatpacks#post_23136072

Best pratice: zip tie for easy remove heavy driver http://www.avsforum.com/t/1460745/ultimax-15-deal-of-the-day/30#post_23100837



How to extend the high pass filter below 20hz in DCX2496
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1461489/how-to-extend-the-high-pass-filter-below-20hz-in-dcx2496

Not sure how I missed these before but thanks for the contribution! I added a tips/best practices section.

I've also added some handy SPL calculators based on power input and room gain estimates as well as a wiring configuration calculator.
post #80 of 83
Couple of painting tips if painting gloss black...
If you are using MDF, you will have to seal the box using a sealing primer. Regular primer will just soak in the cut edges like a sponge. I have tried using Zinsser and Kilz and got very good results. There is a caveat.. If you are using a lacquer paint, you must use the solvent based primers, not the odor-free ones. The odor-free primers are water-based and tend to crack when lacquer is applied, found this out the hard way. You should spray primer on the entire box. After spraying, sand the box smooth with 220 grit paper. Repeat the process until there is no exposed MDF. Wait a few days before proceeding.

Another note: Do NOT apply lacquer on humid (>65%), cool (<65 degrees) or rainy days. The lacquer will absorb moisture and turn a milky white, this is called "blushing". If this happens, you will have to start all over. I found this out the hard way, AGAIN. Also, do NOT dry your project in the sun. It will cure too fast and cause issues.

I like to then spray three light coats of lacquer over the primer. Wait a couple of hours and repeat the process. The next day, wet-sand the finish lightly with 320-grit. Do NOT use dry paper. The lacquer will not be fully cured and chunks of the lacquer will adhere to the paper, causing mean gouges in the finish. I found this out the hard way. Reapply three thin coats, wait a couple of hours and reapply again. Again, wet-sand with 320-grit paper. Make sure you get rid of any orange peel. If you sand down to the primer, you will have to repeat the lacquer painting process.

You now have a choice to make. You can either spray on several coats of clear lacquer or leave the finish in the black. The clear lacquer will help protect the finish. But the finish of the black will be different with clear. Clear coated finishes will look like it is covered with saran wrap while a pure black finish will have a deep shine, which looks a lot better. The pure black finish is however, very susceptible to damage like scratches which will be easily visible. if you decide to go with the clear coat, apply it like the black lacquer.

FInally, you will need to spray the top coats. Apply three light coats of the clear or black lacquer and let it dry. Now comes the hard part. You will have to wait a month before you can finally finish it. Lacquer takes a while to cure. In cooler weather, it can take a while longer. If you use clear coat, it is imperative that you let it cure before polishing. if you polish the clear coat before it is cured, the heat from polishing will cloud the finish. Again, a lesson from me (I must have thirty coats of paint on my cabinet).

After the paint has cured, you can wet sand the finish with 600-grit, then 800-grit, on to 1000,1500 and if possible, 2000-grit. It's going to take a couple of hours for each level for a box. BTW, you will probably have to go to auto parts stores to find the finer grit paper. At this point, the paint will be super smooth and somewhat glossy. You will now have to use automotive scratch remove and then car polish to get rid of any remaining fine scratches. Then apply a glaze to bring out the gloss. After glazing, use car wax to seal the finish.

I found a nifty product to speed up the process. Woodcraft sells a Micro-Mesh sanding disc pack. It has several pads: 1000-12000 grit which can be used on your 5" random orbital sander. It really works great. You must use a backing pad with this product.
post #81 of 83
Jon S and company....link below has pics on this process...though a bit different here and there.

http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/67501/how-to-paint-mdf-to-a-mirror-finish-worklog
post #82 of 83
Thread Starter 
Added links to paint and finishing help in the original post. Thanks guys, keep them coming. Soon we'll have enough content for a book, LOL.
post #83 of 83
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gorilla83 View Post

Not sure how I missed these before but thanks for the contribution! I added a tips/best practices section.

I've also added some handy SPL calculators based on power input and room gain estimates as well as a wiring configuration calculator.

You were busy with your "Spring Speaker Shootout - April 2013" stuff biggrin.gif

I feel it is important to put links and visual to those best pratices here, will help others not repeat mistakes/lessons learned, and give more confidence to 1st timers to take the DIY plunge.

As I come across some more here/there I'll post them, and then you can group them in logical fashion in your Master Post.
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