Save your money, going the cheap route and probably you don't know what you are doing will not get you anyplace.
However if you are willing to pay your dues and really want to bring the best out in your display, then by all means start with a D3 and work you way up the latter, but a good calibration will not come without a lot of practice.
And yes you would tape your shutter 3D glasses to your meter use off screen, make sure they are in sync.with your VT50 and press the 3D button on your remote to get your TV into 3D mode.
Also understand that because of using the 3D shutter glasses the calibration will become more unstable and very hard to get close to what you want.
In the end a very good DYI calibrator will more than likely do a better job calibrating there TV than a Pro will do.
If HCFR allows for meter profiling between reference meter and field meter, you might want to try profiling your Spider 4 with 3d glasses as the reference meter to the Spider 4 without 3d glasses as your field meter.
You'd have to get the "with" glasses reading very close to the screen. This isn't unlike what many do with other software as 3d is much dimmer but you're working with brighter patterns when profiling a meter.
Keep in mind that the weakness of most meters is how well they read the lower % brightness levels. You may find that rather than reading 20% and 80% that you'll have to go higher for the low end. As a cross check, put up a stepped cross 10pt grayscale pattern as see if you can tell any color differences through the range with special attention given to the lower levels.
I'm pretty set on a new meter as I seem to end up with a massive red push when the grey scale is apparently calibrated with the Spyder and it's really unstable around 40 - 60 IRE as well for some reason.
Seems that was a problem localized to Calman, which I won't initially be using. Also, is it worth getting the ColorMunki Display instead of the i1Pro if I'm not using the bundled software, as they're essentially the same meter? I'll be using HCFR for my Panny.
OK, got it. Not everybody using Calman. .
With HCFR should be no problem because they use other drivers. I would prefer the I1display3 because
the quite big FOV should be an advantage on the low light behind the glasses.
Yeah, I also saw a post where it looks like he got it working, but I may be wrong. I would like to use Calman maybe at some point to do an Autocal. Is that where the CM display and i1d3 differ then? The fov? I thought they were the same meter but in different colours with different software?