RCA Cable interconnects for a high end budget system

You're new here, right?

Wire is wire. For interconnects, use the free stuff that came with the components. For speaker wire, it depends on the lengths you need. At the lengths you're talking about, wet string would probably work.

....needs salt.

Audioquest are way over-priced. Go with the Blue Jeans.

At 2-6 feet and the PM7001 power levels, go with 14 gauge zip-cord from your local hardware store.

Audioquest are way over-priced. Go with the Blue Jeans.

At 2-6 feet and the PM7001 power levels, go with 14 gauge zip-cord from your local hardware store.

Audio interconnects:
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10218&cs_id=1021814&p_id=2869&seq=1&format=2

Speaker wire:
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10239&cs_id=1023902&p_id=2748&seq=1&format=2

The excess speaker wire can be utilized to connect your sub via the speaker level inputs/outputs.

Second this. If you only need 6 feet, I'd get the speaker wire from them too. I'd agree that the sound quality improvement over generic wire is probably negligible, but their speaker wire is well made and sturdy, and the extra cost for such a short run will only be a couple bucks. I used their cables for my in-wall installation and am very pleased.

Just go with monoprice. The only differences in cables is the quality of the connector and monoprice's are good enough that anything more expensive does not result in improvement. There is the issue of cosmetics but interconnects are generally out of sight.

I use the Blue Jeans Cable ones.

the answer to the interconnect question will not change no matter how many times you ask the question...

10 or 12 gauge is GROSS overkill for "2-6 feet"... 16 gauge is more than enough...

that cable will be fine for the sub... any rca cable you have lying around will be fine, ftm...

The only advantage to boutique cables like Audioquest is if they give you an emotional high. Which they do, for some people. "Expectation bias" also causes people to hear subtle differences because they think they should be there. Any time you concentrate on listening to something, you'll always hear things that you simply didn't notice before.

16 gauge is definitely fine. I have 14 in my wall for 30+ foot runs, and I probably could have gotten away with 16.

Arguing interconnects and speaker wire is like poking a hornet's nest around here, so I'll just bow out and post a link:

http://www.audioholics.com/education/cables/the-truth-about-interconnects-and-cables

Based in what I can see.... the Infinity BU-80 Subwoofer only has a line level input. In order to have the x-over work properly with your Marantz PM7001 Amp you need to use the pre-out/main-in. IMO.... use speaker level connections.

Use speaker level for proper x-over. The sub does not support line level in/out, only input.
The amp in the sub is used with either connection.

Consider $16 for all your wire/cable needs as opposed to $42.

Those cables are inexpensive enough that you can buy one of each and try them yourself. Sell the one you don't like and continue cabling your system with the ones you do. While you're at it try the DH Labs BL-1. They go for a good price used.

IME going to true bass management can result in a huge SQ improvement.

That old fashioned Marantz Integrated is a boat anchor, and I don't mean that in a good way!

A $250 AVR could give you a large sound quality benefit by bringing your bass managment situation into the 21st century.

^^^

you should step back, and lesrn how bass works in a room... then you would understand why people are harping upon bass management...

A quibble: calling an output "line level" just means that it carries a low level signal (less than 6 volts) and is designed to drive a relatively high output impedance load (1K Ohms or more). It's normally used to contrast with "speaker level" outputs, which typically provide a high voltage signal (up to 90 volts or more) and is designed to drive a relatively low impedance load (16 Ohms or less). It doesn't imply anything about gain control.

The improvement in sonic accuracy provided by the room equalization available in (most) modern AVRs can be substantial. In most cases, it results in a higher quality audio experience than can be provided by the high-end preamps and amps which don't have it. Without that EQ, you have to spend a lot more time and money auditioning high-quality speakers and installing appropriate room treatments. Of course, the EQ procsss isn't perfect, so you should start with good speakers and room acoustics.

Even the best floor-standing "full range" speakers can't provide the accurate low frequency extension that's available with quality subwoofers. Low frequencies require the most power, so appropriate bass management also reduces the stress on your main amplifiers. It both reduces electronic distortions and the audio distortions introduced by forcing speakers to emit frequencies for which they aren't optimally designed.

Of course. It shouldn't be any other way! I've never seen it any other way. Have you?

?????????????

To the best of my knowledge even $>10,000 a pair front speakers can't hold a candle to a good $1500 subwoofer. If you've got a candidate, I can run some modeling software and see where the dust settles.

The reason for upgrading to modern technology has been given quite clearly: a far higher probability of better sound quality.

This Marantz is a fine enough product as far as it goes, but it could have been built decades earlier and not be appreciably different. Believe it or not there has been some technological progress in audio over the past 40-50 years!

This is an add-on bass management/eq device that while from the world of pro audio is widely used by advanced audiophiles:

http://www.behringer.com/CN/Products/DEQ2496.aspx





Despite the fact that it has only pro audio input/output connectors some relatively inexpensive adapter cables will bridge the gap between it and the preamp out/amp in jacks on your integrated amp.

By the time you get it in place and have all the necessary accessories to adjust it properly, you will have paid for a pretty nice AVR with similar performance for most people.

Your integrated amp provides no bass management (x-over settings).So...
The typical intent of the sub is to offload/direct all "low" frequencies to the sub. Two reasons: 1) less stress on the amp and 2) provide the lower frequencies that your main speakers cannot reproduce.

So, although the pre-out of the amp to line-in on the sub can work, it will still be sending "full range" signals (frequencies) to the mains and sub. This in not optimal since your amp will still be working harder.

By using the speaker level in/out connections, you send the signals from the speaker outputs of the amp to the sub's speaker inputs. The sub will separate the frequencies accordingly (based on the subwoofer's cross-over setting) and the higher frequencies will be sent to the mains (from the speaker outs of the sub, the lower reproduced by the sub.

From what I can see, your mains are only rated down to 76Hz. I would recommend that you use the connections I suggested and set your x-over on the sub somwhere between 80-100Hz. It may take a few listens of the same test material and tweaking to obtain the best x-over setting to blend the sub with the mains.

Just trying to make the clearer for you. Hope it helps.

by this do you mean "more expensive"?

dude... stop making this so hard... buy an avr... even if you were envisioning a "high end expensive system", it would be the best choice... by far... it's not really even open for debate...