AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › DIY Speakers and Subs › Dual GJALLARHORNs!
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Dual GJALLARHORNs! - Page 9

post #241 of 517
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricci View Post

It is really not as hard as it seems at all. You have to remember I originally tried to make this a kit to be cut on a cnc and then lock together perfectly. Luke has it right... Forget all of that to the umptenth precision on the measurements and the dado's etc...It is really not that hard...I'm not surprised most cab shops won't touch it though, too much work on something they are unfamiliar with. I mean every panel has exactly what it should be and it is not that hard to put together. It is just not worth it for them to fool with it when they can just build another kitchen cabinet or table.

1. You cut the 2 side panels and mark out the path on one. (This is the hard part.) Everything else stems from there and is built upon that panel.
2. Every internal piece from there except for bracing will have the same 22.5"-22.6" width. (exactly what is not important so long as they are the same. )
3. Cut the length of each panel followed by the angles on the ends of the panels somewhat close then just make sure they are centered on the path layout and glue and screw the **** out of them. (if you are 1/4" off on your length of the bend panels it won't amount to anything acoustically. Don't worry about perfection.
4. Use butt joints for everything if you want.
5. Start from the driver baffle and internal bend panels and work your way out. Add bracing as you go. It is bracing it doesn't have to be perfect. It is bracing. PL the hell out of it and screw em in if possible. Get crazy put extra in...Whatever just don't block the air flow. The edge of every brace should always be in the path not the side.
6. Continue with the rest of it.

The hardest part will probably be the driver access panel but it is not that difficult with a decent router and jig. It doesn't have to be exactly that size just get it where your driver fits in. Hell you can just jigsaw cut a big hole and scab a whole other piece of material over the hole if you want.

Again this is being way over thought. The critical component is getting the horn path correct. I can't stress that enough. That is the main key thing. After that it should be easy to go piece by piece. The rest is just building it solid, sealed up and well braced.

Luke,
Yes more bracing was added towards the end. Actually I am revamping the design a bit and simplifying it a bit and adding even more bracing. Instead of a center brace internally I am using 2 equally spaced braces on each internal panel. All except for at the mouth area.

i dunno, I think the same thing as you but apparently they don't lol. I think they are worried that there is no "where to place every panel" type instructions and maybe are worried about putting something where it doesn't belong. When Luke posts up more info, maybe I can take it back to the willing guy I have. I'm assuming the CNC plans are what is scaring them.
post #242 of 517
Luke the rubber ring should be fine.

I will send you updated plans as soon as I can just so you can see what I did with the bracing. You can use that or some of it or whatever. I'm just going for overkill on it. Unfortunately I am out of country for a few weeks and won't be able to get you that for awhile. I don't have that stuff on my laptop. Basically I doubled up the bracing we already talked about to split the path into thirds instead of halves. I made the mouth brace a little longer to get more of the bottom panel, I added another set of braces right by the driver in the throat by the first turn. I also beefed up the triangle shaped corner panel into 2 identical pieces that connect into the driver baffle and contact the bottom panel a little more.
post #243 of 517
Thread Starter 
Top plates are on. I love these Kreg pocket screws.



post #244 of 517
Nice to see progress! Great job!
post #245 of 517
Ricci will you post when you send them to Luke here?

I will just send you an email for the updated plans when I see you were able to send Luke a set.
post #246 of 517
Would there be an advantage to adding foam to the inside corners or each fold?

I see some designs with it added and others without it....
post #247 of 517
Quote:
Originally Posted by jpmst3 View Post

Would there be an advantage to adding foam to the inside corners or each fold?

I see some designs with it added and others without it....

Each time I've tried it, it has not helped where I wanted it to. In some cases, it actually cost me SPL.

I don't add damping material inside my horns any more.
post #248 of 517
Quote:
Originally Posted by lilmike View Post

Each time I've tried it, it has not helped where I wanted it to. In some cases, it actually cost me SPL.

I don't add damping material inside my horns any more.

Interesting.

Thanks for the reply!
post #249 of 517
Bump for progress report smile.gif
post #250 of 517
Good idea!
There should be some more progress now! tongue.gif
post #251 of 517
Thread Starter 
Good timing. I just received the rest of the plywood today.

post #252 of 517
Nice ply!

I need to make a trip myself.
post #253 of 517
Thread Starter 
I just finished ripping all the pieces to 22.625". Those 5x5 pieces are awkward. I had to bring my brother over to help cut them on the table saw.

This process should go a lot faster now.
post #254 of 517
Sweet. Take lots of pics as you go.
post #255 of 517
Thread Starter 
Rear panels are ready to go on next.

post #256 of 517
Progress! cool.gif

It doesn't look like you have a lot of room to work with either..between the bikes, skateboards, scooters, rakes, golf clubs, etc.biggrin.gif

I can tell you have kids!smile.gif
Edited by jpmst3 - 2/27/13 at 7:06am
post #257 of 517
Nice work Luke, keep up the progress. I'm seriously tempted to build one of these.

Ricci - Could this design be used with a lesser driver like the SI-18 for instance with a bit less (but still ridiculous) output? I've got a few of them laying around anyway.
post #258 of 517
Anybody who might be reading this who has requested the prints and there have been a bunch. Too many to get to really...I am not in a position to send them out right now. Also when I get back home, I am in the middle of making some changes to further beef the bracing and improve the clarity and ease of viewing of the prints which will hopefully make them less intimidating and easier to follow. This is not something that you whip out in a couple of hours, it involves updating part files, assembly files, updating multiple configurations, making numerous print changes etc...It will probably be a few weeks still.


Looking good Luke...Let me know if you have any questions. I think you have this...It's just a lot of parts.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Gorilla83 View Post

Nice work Luke, keep up the progress. I'm seriously tempted to build one of these.

Ricci - Could this design be used with a lesser driver like the SI-18 for instance with a bit less (but still ridiculous) output? I've got a few of them laying around anyway.

Nope...It's just not enough driver for this. I checked. This is the number one question I get asked about my horns is whether a cheaper driver will work and they just don't. (high displacement+high power handling+very strong motor+good inductance management=expensive.) Horns are very picky and I have posted every driver I am currently aware of that works ok in my build threads for this and the Othorn. Not saying there aren't more out there...
post #259 of 517
Looks like next week is my start date! Looks good Luke! My builders will be doing the same!
post #260 of 517
Thread Starter 


post #261 of 517
I see your adding on another room....oh wait those are walls to a sub.....lol. Sorry they are huge.
post #262 of 517
Lookin' good!
post #263 of 517
It's coming along nicely. You've got me looking into a Kreg kit. Looks like a good way to get everything square when working solo. Are you planning on filling in the holes? Probably wouldn't cause much turbulence, but if it did, you're be pretty screwed (haha) if you've glued it all together. Unless of course you have a well trained pocket monkey with a flair for wood working. biggrin.gif
post #264 of 517
The birth of twin girls. . . made directly for the pole biggrin.gif
post #265 of 517
Thread Starter 
Front panels are on.

post #266 of 517
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by steve71 View Post

It's coming along nicely. You've got me looking into a Kreg kit. Looks like a good way to get everything square when working solo. Are you planning on filling in the holes? Probably wouldn't cause much turbulence, but if it did, you're be pretty screwed (haha) if you've glued it all together. Unless of course you have a well trained pocket monkey with a flair for wood working. biggrin.gif

I've been wondering if I should fill these or not as well.

Ricci, think it's needed at all?
post #267 of 517
I thought Ricci's had pocket screws also.
post #268 of 517
Thread Starter 
They do, but we're wondering if it would beneficial to fill them in.
post #269 of 517
I'm sure it couldn't hurt. if you finish the exterior with a duratex or something it probably wouldn't matter.
post #270 of 517
Don't worry about filling them.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: DIY Speakers and Subs
AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › DIY Speakers and Subs › Dual GJALLARHORNs!