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Dual GJALLARHORNs! - Page 3

post #61 of 758
Quote:
Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post

Eric, you remember the difference of the bass between my front row and my second row riser. It is pretty significant.
Sure do bro! Thats actually one of the reasons I brought it up here.
post #62 of 758
Quote:
Originally Posted by lukeamdman View Post

I did look for a horn design similar to the F-20 or OS that was built around a driver as large as a 5400 and didn't find one.

Suitable drivers for horns are a bit hard to find in that size. That's why I keep coming up with designs that use multiple smaller drivers.

I'm itching to do one big monster horn myself, but with funds as limited as mine it probably won't happen anytime soon. The Sundown 18 Zv3 has my attention at the moment, among others. Also waiting on the CSS SDX12, as the preliminary specs look decent.
post #63 of 758
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stereodude View Post

Delta-FL
They sell it at Lowes (or they used to).

Hmmm. Thanks for the link.
post #64 of 758
Quote:
Originally Posted by Oklahoma Wolf View Post

Suitable drivers for horns are a bit hard to find in that size. That's why I keep coming up with designs that use multiple smaller drivers.
I'm itching to do one big monster horn myself, but with funds as limited as mine it probably won't happen anytime soon. The Sundown 18 Zv3 has my attention at the moment, among others. Also waiting on the CSS SDX12, as the preliminary specs look decent.
I suppose the XXX is not a suitable candidate? Lol...
post #65 of 758
Quote:
Originally Posted by keager View Post

I suppose the XXX is not a suitable candidate? Lol...

Not really. Aside from the high cost, they're not that suitable for horn loading in the first place.

The 18 Zv3 is literally the only 18 I can actually see myself doing anything with right now.
post #66 of 758
Quote:
Originally Posted by keager View Post

I suppose the XXX is not a suitable candidate? Lol...

No....Completely unworkable. The 12" could do something passable but it's not worth the attempt considering all of the logistical problems. Weight, frame, cost and motor size, low sensitivity, excursion clearance needed, etc...Alpine swr-1223d's are cheap though.
post #67 of 758
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stereodude View Post

Why not float a wood sub floor over the concrete using something like Delta FL? That will give you a wood floor with minimal height loss and I would think it should provide some of that tactile sensation in the floor. That's been my plan for my basement home theater.

Has anyone actually tried this yet? It's marketed as an inert product, so it appears as though they are claiming that one should not feel any different effects opposed to laying a finished floor directly over your slab?
post #68 of 758
Quote:
Originally Posted by popalock View Post

Has anyone actually tried this yet? It's marketed as an inert product, so it appears as though they are claiming that one should not feel any different effects opposed to laying a finished floor directly over your slab?
I haven't tried it yet, but the plywood or OSB sitting on top of it has way less mass than then cement slab below it, so I don't see how the wood could possibly transmit the same amount or less vibration vs. carpet on concrete. I also want to use it for the thermal characteristics, so I won't be heartbroken if it proves to be minimally effective on the tactile bass front...
post #69 of 758
My floor is layered 1/2" and 3/4" OSB over 3/8" Hardieplank sleepers with roofing felt between layers. It may be a little too stiff for what you want but, even with two layers, it conveys some tactile feel at high SPL. Warm feet with little height smile.gif
post #70 of 758
Thread Starter 
Can anyone recommend some hurricane nuts that actually work? I've had terrible luck with these things, but definitely need them for this project.
post #71 of 758
Luke we used these...

http://woodworker.com/fullpres.asp?PARTNUM=812-452&LARGEVIEW=ON

I believe they are the same kind Danley uses. Just make sure you put a little glue on them when they go in.
post #72 of 758
Quote:
Originally Posted by lukeamdman View Post

Can anyone recommend some hurricane nuts that actually work? I've had terrible luck with these things, but definitely need them for this project.

JapanDave has some on his thread that were getting some high praise
post #73 of 758
You are comparing two 15's to two 12's. Assuming that was your point, I would go with the 15's.
post #74 of 758
yes will the two 15 AXIS blow away the two JL'S? Also will the 2 12 inch Axis best the JL 12'S?
post #75 of 758
Hello all, I've been getting the itch to try something new with a driver I have. It is a RCF lf21n451. I am hoping the GH and this driver may be a good match. Thoughts? Power would be provided by a NU3000DSP.
post #76 of 758
Thread Starter 
BTW, I found out that my local Menards carries these:

http://www.menards.com/main/search.html?search=hex+insert
post #77 of 758
Any updates?
post #78 of 758
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by edoggrc51 View Post

Any updates?

With the holidays and countless birthdays this time of year, I haven't had much time.

However, this projects is a go. Once I'm back from vacation, and back in the country, on the 12th I'll be starting these monsters.
post #79 of 758
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricci View Post

Luke we used these...
http://woodworker.com/fullpres.asp?PARTNUM=812-452&LARGEVIEW=ON
I believe they are the same kind Danley uses. Just make sure you put a little glue on them when they go in.

Those seem better than hurricane nuts for any sub/speaker application.
post #80 of 758
I used something similar from Lowe's on my builds. MUCH better than hurricane nuts...no alignment worries, no pull through, etc.wink.gif
post #81 of 758
Quote:
Originally Posted by lukeamdman View Post

With the holidays and countless birthdays this time of year, I haven't had much time.
However, this projects is a go. Once I'm back from vacation, and back in the country, on the 12th I'll be starting these monsters.

I'm scared for your house man. frown.gif
post #82 of 758
Thread Starter 
This project starts this weekend!

Ricci, will I need to use the voltage limiter on my fp14k clones, or is 4,400w burst ok for the 5400 in this configuration? I'll definitely put a 15hz, at least 4th order, filter on it.
post #83 of 758
Quote:
Originally Posted by lukeamdman View Post

Can anyone recommend some hurricane nuts that actually work? I've had terrible luck with these things, but definitely need them for this project.

I would use these, much better than hurricane nuts.
You don't need precise alignment, don't need glued in, will never pull out, much better bite into the wood, never cross thread, you can use any thread type, readily available, and they are cheaper!

I have used them on a couple of projects and will never use anything else going forward.
Edited by jpmst3 - 1/31/13 at 5:50am
post #84 of 758
I use those too and I have found them at Home Depot. MUCH MUCH easier to use. I don't use the Phillips head screws. I substitute hex head screws of the same size or you could even use a allen head screw.
post #85 of 758
Quote:
Originally Posted by LJwelr View Post

I use those too and I have found them at Home Depot. MUCH MUCH easier to use. I don't use the Phillips head screws. I substitute hex head screws of the same size or you could even use a allen head screw.

Good idea on the screws! I never thought of substituting. But, that is another bonus!
Edited by jpmst3 - 1/31/13 at 5:37am
post #86 of 758
what size pilot hole do you use with those?
post #87 of 758
I can't remember, but it does not require much of one as they displace the wood as necessary just like any screw.
post #88 of 758
4500 w is getting into the danger zone according to the simulation. However I gave them more than that during testing and didnt clank a driver so the sim is a little conservative. Max excursion is around 23Hz. That is also right in the output wheel house though and by the time you bottom a driver you should be somewhere near 15dB over Ref at the seats at least.

I think it will be fine. Just exercise a little bit of caution when you first fire them up until you get a grip on what they will do and how they handle the amp. I doubt you push the amp to clipping on these except for proving to yourself you can do it once or twice.

Definitely do a 14Hz highpass though.
post #89 of 758
4500W, damn, that is a load of power for any configuration, let alone a horn.
post #90 of 758
Luke, once this project is done, if you would allow it- I would love to come hear them. I wanted to build a pair but definitely will not be able to justify the cost with the wife.
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