Rattling in the room - Page 2

So....other than feet, what would the differences be between up firing and down firing subs.

Driver vulnerability to damage. If the cab was tall enough there would be floor bounce cancellations, but to occur at even the upper end of the sub passband at 100Hz the baffle would have to be 2.8 feet above the floor.

You really haven't answered my question have you.

What else would you like me to say? If you have a legitimate question spit it out. If you're trolling I'm not biting.

It doesn't have to be a bandpass design to have a pass band. Your receiver has a passband, as do all speakers. Defined as the high and low frequency -X dB (maybe 6 maybe 10, I think we get to decide where to put the limits for ourselves whenver we want to define the pass band of any device) points, AFAIK. Most receivers actually roll off intentionally somewhere just above 20 KHz, and many roll off in the bass somewhere below 20Hz. Bosso, IIRC, struggled to find amps that were flat down to 5 Hz or below.

. Not trolling here. You claim being an expert with this thread and mention an up firing sub being the exception. With down firing being popular I was wondering what the difference would be. You said woofer vulnerability. Trivial really, but you being an expert I was hoping for a different answer. A better explanation.

The comment directly related to subwoofer enclosure design and isolating the subwoofer enclosure energy from the floor.

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Edited by BeeMan458 - 12/12/12 at 12:32pm

I don't know what you want explained. A down firing woofer is at the bottom of the cabinet, facing down, an up firing woofer is at the top of the cab, facing up. BTW, the example at bossobass is a dual opposed, using two drivers, one up firing, one down firing.

Well Bill I was hoping you could elaborate on a comment you made. I had no idea it would be so hard for you. Thanks for the one faces up and one faces down though. Like others, I come here to have a good time reading about this hobbie and maybe even learn something new. In this case with you I did indeed learn something.

And I still don't know what you want explained. It seems that you don't either, so I'll leave it at that.

. Really Bill....

Next you should show off by trying to make a fool of Bobl Lee from QSC. These guys who do this stuff for a living know nothing and, to boot, cannot read minds worth a darn, so they keep answering the question that was asked instead of the one the asker thought he was asking.


Sez the guy who the estimable Mr. Lee put into his place a time or two early in his wanderings on this site. I find that endeavoring to understand what the experts say, even when it doesn't match one's preconceived notions, is surprisingly valuable.

All you pissers have been formally dismissed by the man who owns this thread. Move on.

That shouldn't matter, as the radiation pattern of a subwoofer is omni-directional. Chances are you'll find one screw will end the problem. If that single screw is driven in the middle of the span of the vibrating portion of the baseboard the resonance frequency will go up by a full octave, and if that places it outside the subwoofer passband it won't vibrate,

First obtain some test recordings with slow sweeps, and isolate the buzz or rattle so that you can recreate it at will in about 10 seconds with almost no effort. You now or soon will know exactly where the trouble is.

Then find some sorbothane sheet or pads, mortite, polyurethane glue, and wood screws, pilot drill and screw driver. Application of one or more of them will resolve the problem unless it is internal to the sub.

Or...If you dont have the test equipment or the know how to use it or the tools or the money and time to find the materials you could just remove EVERYTHING from the room.

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I'm old, I rattle and just how exactly am I going be able to listen if I remove myself from the room?

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It's not hard to track down vibration. First off, small objects don't vibrate. The wavelengths from a sub run from about ten to forty feet long, and anything that's less than a quarter-wavelength or so in dimension won't be vibrated, as the wave simply goes around it (see principles of diffraction). So what vibrates are large surfaces: floors, walls, ceilings. You don't notice them vibrating, or hear them vibrating. What you do hear vibrating are objects connected to them, pictures, shelves, etc., and other objects sitting on said shelves. In the OPs case the baseboard itself isn't the issue, the wall behind it is. He doesn't hear the wall vibrating, he hears the baseboard vibrating in response to the wall vibration.
If you have objects vibrating the cure isn't to isolate the sub, as that doesn't stop those ten to forty foot long wavelengths from vibrating the floor and walls. It's to either secure or isolate the objects. Shelves full of brick-a-brack in a HT aren't a good idea, but if you must have them get self-stick felt pads to put under them.

Aren't you a argumentative cuss.