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"The Grizzlies" Twin Dual Opposed Stereo Integrity HT18 Subwoofers - Page 6

post #151 of 190
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott Simonian View Post

No! Just make a new face plate. Yeesh. So lazy. tongue.gif

You Shutup You!!! I am going to, soon as the paint/stain dries on the LCR's...haha No making dust during the finishing, duh...
post #152 of 190
I also dont even plan on sealing up the FP, just put some closed cell around the outside and the speaker cutout and screw it in, haha quick and dirty
post #153 of 190
Thread Starter 
Sounds like a plan!
post #154 of 190
Thread Starter 
Wait a sec. How will that work exactly? The driver just won't be flush mounted anymore?
post #155 of 190
Since it is just temporary, i will basically have some closed cell sandwiched between the old baffle and the add-on baffle to make it fit. I am not going to go through the trouble of flush mounting it for these. I will save that for the real boxes smile.gif
post #156 of 190
Thread Starter 
Oh. Ok. These are just temporary boxes. Gotcha.
post #157 of 190
Great thread, I am working on my (4) SI sub cabinet too, really anxious to get it cranked up as well. Went with the 18" models
post #158 of 190
They look great Brian, nice work man. I know it's apples to oranges, but how is the sound compared to the pair of thtlp?
post #159 of 190
Thread Starter 
I never had the chance to listen to both tht's at once and I couldn't A/B them with these but one to one, I think they sound a lot alike untill the material goes really deep. To me, horn bass has a different sound to it. The sealed sub sounds a little thicker. More like the pb13 ultra I had than the horns. The tht has a bit "dryer" sound to it. Like i said, mostly alike. Both sound great IMO.
post #160 of 190
Bring the dual 18's to my place and we could A/B them! (I bought Brian's thtlp's) Hell, we could hook up my M&K mx-5000-mkii & B&W ASW-855 too and break my foundation!!!!
Edited by motorcitym3 - 1/23/13 at 8:58am
post #161 of 190
Thread Starter 
That would be pretty insane.
post #162 of 190
nice work. a "matching set" with your mains. really nice combo you have there!
post #163 of 190
Thread Starter 
finaly getting time to get the basement done and had a chance to EQ these a little with my balanced MiniDSP and a Spectrum Labs Dayton UMM-6 mic. . Audyssey made things really messy so i left it off. heres what i have so far. any tips are appreciated thanks!!







post #164 of 190
Sweet setup! smile.gif
post #165 of 190
Thread Starter 
thanks. i forgot to mention that this is with using a Low shelf 14DB at 25Hz Q of 1.1

also still have to fish some wires and finish the top trim work so go easy on me about the aesthetics please biggrin.gif
post #166 of 190
Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post

ba,

josh mentioned that the recommendation for the lowish power rating is specifically aimed at folks who are using largish enclosures that don't provide much air spring protection and that in smallish enclosures that help control excursion, a little more power than spec can be applied.

iirc, stereo integrity has its roots in car audio, where relatively high tuned ported enclosures are common. in order to protect the driver in systems that don't use a protective high pass filter, many car audio subs will often have very tight suspension to protect the driver if it is driven with too much power or driven below the frequency where it unloads.

here is the excursion of the si's in brian's 6.3 cubic footer with 2,000 total watts. the air spring in the box is providing a lot of protection against over excursion.


Where did you get your TS parameters from?
They are quite a bit different from the ones posted on their site.
post #167 of 190
Thread Starter 
post #168 of 190
Your chart looks really good! Did you measure from the listening position?
post #169 of 190
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pain Infliction View Post

Your chart looks really good! Did you measure from the listening position?

Yes. That is at the main listening position. I'm going to to decrease the boost on the low shelf. I didn't see any improvement between 10 and 14db so I figure its better to go with the lower number to avoid clipping?
post #170 of 190
Thread Starter 
update:

i have been enjoying these subs for a while and i am extremely impressed with how awesome they sound. they also have a TON of out put, but i have an issue that im sure i share with a lot of folks and im hoping i can get some help.

like a lot of you, my theater is in my basement. carpet over padding for the floor. It seems like these subs can get my entire house shaking but im not really feeling the tactility i think i should at the seats. im sure its because im on a slab.

so im wondering what i can do about this. i really would like to avoid building a riser because my screen cannot go a lot higher but that might be my only option.

has anyone tried just using these isolators? http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=300-9462

i wonder if they would help separate the seats from the floor and therefore give me what im looking for............
post #171 of 190
My suggestion: Try one of the subs nearfield or add another in that area if possible. There really is no substitute for those on concrete slabs, IMO. biggrin.gif

Edit - Just saw your pic and looks like you've got the subs on either side of the couch, correct? Might need to experiment a bit with placement.
Edited by Gorilla83 - 4/19/13 at 8:00am
post #172 of 190
Buttkickers.

Have you measured the response at the LP? You might be sitting in a slight null, whereby moving the subs around might provide some improvement.
post #173 of 190
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gorilla83 View Post

My suggestion: Try one of the subs nearfield or add another in that area if possible. There really is no substitute for those on concrete slabs, IMO. biggrin.gif

Edit - Just saw your pic and looks like you've got the subs on either side of the couch, correct? Might need to experiment a bit with placement.

yes, they are on either side of the couch. i can try putting them right behind the coach, but thats really the only other location i can use and i worried about being able to locate the subs back there. it sounds transparent right now. i guess i wont know unless i try

Quote:
Originally Posted by bass addict View Post

Buttkickers.

Have you measured the response at the LP? You might be sitting in a slight null, whereby moving the subs around might provide some improvement.

transducers are definitely on the list of possibilities. and would be cheaper than two more subs.

it measures pretty flat, but there is definitely more energy going on the closer you get to the walls. especially the area behind the couch. i have thought of splitting these into singles and putting one on each side and two behind the couch.
post #174 of 190
Ive been reading every 18" build thread I can find. Jsut made it through yours today. Awesome job, man. Motivational stuff. Good luck with your nulls. Im no pro, but i bet they would be sweet posted up right behind your couch there. or just add some more (i learned that on these forums.. the best solution = add more subs. If your room is 3000^3 ft, and 2000^3 feet are taken up by subwoofers, there is little chance of any nulls. lol)
post #175 of 190
Thread Starter 
Thanks Nick!

i have learned so much from everyone here (still a nube tongue.gif ), i just try to document my builds in hopes that other folks get something from them.

i definitely plan to try the subs behind the seats. i have also thought of separating them and spreading them out. one on each side and two behind the seats.
post #176 of 190
let us know how it works out for you.
post #177 of 190
Thread Starter 
i still have not had time to try the subs behind the seats but i will say that having a capable sub system makes a HUGE difference on the entire setup. i sold my Cornscalas and im running my two CS-1T's temporarily until i get my new mains and center built and i dont miss the Cornscalas one bit. crossed at 80Hz, they sound really, really good. i knew it was a waste to have them as my mains.


i dont know if im going to bother putting them behind the seats. they sound awesome how they are.
post #178 of 190
These subs are awesome aren't they?

I would have preferred going with a smaller, longer box like yours, but it would not have fit where I needed it to go. I'm using a net of 10cu ft.

What mains are you building again?
post #179 of 190
Thread Starter 
basically SEOS Tempests with TD12M woofers.
post #180 of 190
Just read this thread, nice job on all counts.

Consider this;
If you're still interested in the tactile element, ... place the rear sub near-field, evenly behind you, and with a Behringer DCX2496 (or equiv) carefully time align front and rear sub separately, then EQ globally. Also, by tweaking low pass of each, the acoustic summation varies, and with all these tools, you can retain the bass "upfront", yet elicit the tactile immediacy you're after.

As you know, the near-field placement yields a by product of FR smoothing, because you're getting more sub, less room,..relatively speaking (just like close mic measuring). This fills in most all modal nulls, yet with judicious time alignment (and careful low pass adjustments), you weave the LF properly into the mains, yet you gain back the tactile component you're missing from the concrete slab.

Anyway, just a thought,...I'm guessing you've tossed all this around many times.

Nice job documenting, I'd like to see more and better FR graphs, but that's really getting picky in an otherwise well executed build.


Just a thought
Good luck

(remember, when fine tuning in the time and freq domain, keep going back thru the steps, as each parameter affects the acoustic summation perhaps subtly and differently, so going thru again and again is a must, IMO, time align separately, EQ globally,..with exception of low passing)
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