AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › DIY Speakers and Subs › "The Grizzlies" Twin Dual Opposed Stereo Integrity HT18 Subwoofers
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

"The Grizzlies" Twin Dual Opposed Stereo Integrity HT18 Subwoofers - Page 2

post #31 of 190
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dtsdig View Post

I am following this thread closely! I have two 18" SI HT d2s on the way as well and have been thinking about going dual opposed.

Just FYI. I'm using the D4's
post #32 of 190
Thread Starter 
you would wire them as 4 ohms, then together for 2 ohms per cab with yours
post #33 of 190
Quote:
Originally Posted by brian6751 View Post

cool cool.gif They both look extremely close and it looks like i can keep my 6.37ft^ volume smile.gif
i would think after room gain and EQ they would be equal.
BA, maybe you can rethink the 36ft^? unless your trying to get EVERY once of spl out of them? still getting some nice output even before room gain. and thats with just one DO box!
Thanks, LTD02. So many great resources in this community. im still going to get Winblows so i can model this stuff myself. ill need it if i ever get an Omnimic anyway!

No, I'm going to stick with my original plan, or close to it anyways. These will be behind my screen wall so size isn't a factor. I might back it down a hair to 5 cf per driver, just to make them easier to haul around, lol.

LTD. On data-bass website he states this
" They recommend 600w and no more for this driver. The very compliant suspension results in little power being needed to move the driver to full stroke. SI's recommendations for this woofer make sense in light of this and the driver will not make much use of more than 5 or 600w of power without getting into trouble. Depending upon the particular enclosure design more power could possibly be used but careful measurement and simulation would be needed to assess the wisdom of applying more power. "

Are you sure you wouldn't get into trouble applying 1k watts of power to these guys? Seems a little much to me.
post #34 of 190
no prob brian.

---

depending on the amp, dts might get a little more output if he wires each driver for 4 ohms and runs each driver off of each channel on the amp.

most amps aren't happy with bridged 2 ohms and using just one channel gives up a tiny bit of juice.
post #35 of 190
ba,

josh mentioned that the recommendation for the lowish power rating is specifically aimed at folks who are using largish enclosures that don't provide much air spring protection and that in smallish enclosures that help control excursion, a little more power than spec can be applied.

iirc, stereo integrity has its roots in car audio, where relatively high tuned ported enclosures are common. in order to protect the driver in systems that don't use a protective high pass filter, many car audio subs will often have very tight suspension to protect the driver if it is driven with too much power or driven below the frequency where it unloads.

here is the excursion of the si's in brian's 6.3 cubic footer with 2,000 total watts. the air spring in the box is providing a lot of protection against over excursion.


Edited by LTD02 - 12/19/12 at 12:37pm
post #36 of 190
Thread Starter 
actually, i have been messing around with the volume and my cutlist. looks like i can get the boxes up to 8ft^ on the same amount of sheets. the depth and height will go up 1.5" and the width up by 2" more.
post #37 of 190
Thread Starter 
can someone model the difference between 6.4 and 8 for me?
post #38 of 190
Thread Starter 
here is the cut list for the two 8ft^ enclosures

Dual Si HT18 8cft. Project.pdf 219k .pdf file
post #39 of 190
Thread Starter 
im betting the difference between the two sizes is only ~2db. i might just go with the smaller ones in that case
post #40 of 190
Quote:
Originally Posted by brian6751 View Post

im betting the difference between the two sizes is only ~2db. i might just go with the smaller ones in that case

You're probably about right there. I can figure it when I get home later.

That being said, I think 2db's is a bit. Doubling your amplifier power only gets you an extra db (more than that). smile.gif
post #41 of 190
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bass addict View Post

You're probably about right there. I can figure it when I get home later.
That being said, I think 2db's is a bit. Doubling your amplifier power only gets you an extra db (more than that). smile.gif

DAMN YOU!!!!!!!!!!! eek.gifeek.gifeek.gifeek.gifeek.gif
post #42 of 190
You guys are fretting way too much over a couple of cubic feet for maybe 1-2dB ~10hz or so. Make em smaller and use more power. That will make up any dB difference.

Also a consideration, going smaller allows one to fit a 2nd sub nearby and with the same power applied you can get an extra 6dB. Now that's worth it.
post #43 of 190
Thread Starter 
Thats what we do best around here!!!
post #44 of 190
Quote:
Originally Posted by brian6751 View Post

Thats what we do best around here!!!

What's this "we" stuff?

???

biggrin.gifbiggrin.gifbiggrin.gif
post #45 of 190
Thread Starter 
Hey. You're egging me on!
post #46 of 190
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott Simonian View Post

You guys are fretting way too much over a couple of cubic feet for maybe 1-2dB ~10hz or so. Make em smaller and use more power. That will make up any dB difference.
Also a consideration, going smaller allows one to fit a 2nd sub nearby and with the same power applied you can get an extra 6dB. Now that's worth it.

So what would you say is the minimum db increase before considering it a worthwhile jump.
post #47 of 190
More than one or two but it's up to you! This is DIY.

However, like I mentioned, going small can afford other possibilities. smile.gif Re-read and absorb the last post of mine you just quoted. wink.gif
post #48 of 190
Thread Starter 
Other thing is, I most likely won't be putting more than 1000 watts each on these. I don't think they could take much more than that anyway right? Even if I had a Cv5000, how much more power would it give me? Not much I don't think.

So that's why I'm torn.
post #49 of 190
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott Simonian View Post

You guys are fretting way too much over a couple of cubic feet for maybe 1-2dB ~10hz or so. Make em smaller and use more power. That will make up any dB difference.
Also a consideration, going smaller allows one to fit a 2nd sub nearby and with the same power applied you can get an extra 6dB. Now that's worth it.

Agreed my friend. In my case I'd rather have the extra room and driver protection vs a db I won't be able to hear anyway. This clone amp is a monster! The SI may need a bit more space though.. I've been playing with the Daytons and SI's. unfortunately one of the SI drivers appears to have an issue. More to come. Output up until max levels seems to be ok though.
post #50 of 190
Quote:
Originally Posted by brian6751 View Post

Hey. You're egging me on!



It's cool to optomize, but with 4 of these drivers I don't think you'd notice much difference between the two different sized boxes in the end...you'll be just fine either way. smile.gif
post #51 of 190
Thread Starter 
Yeah. I think you guys are right. If I need more ill build another one. smile.gif
post #52 of 190
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gorilla83 View Post

Agreed my friend. In my case I'd rather have the extra room and driver protection vs a db I won't be able to hear anyway. This clone amp is a monster! The SI may need a bit more space though.. I've been playing with the Daytons and SI's. unfortunately one of the SI drivers appears to have an issue. More to come. Output up until max levels seems to be ok though.

..... frown.gif
post #53 of 190
Quote:
Originally Posted by brian6751 View Post

..... frown.gif

Give it a try as is. I had them in my boxes tonight and they sounded good. You're stressing far too much regarding the last cu foot or so.
post #54 of 190
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gorilla83 View Post

unfortunately one of the SI drivers appears to have an issue. More to come..

I'm going to go out on a limb and guess it was 'death by UPS'. I've had the United Package Smashers damage my shipments at a rate of at least 10:1 over FedEx. What can Brown do for you?
post #55 of 190
Thread Starter 
I read through your thread again Gorilla. I'm definitely going with the 6.4ft^ cabs. You guys already did the back and forth thing.
post #56 of 190
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron Smith View Post

I'm going to go out on a limb and guess it was 'death by UPS'. I've had the United Package Smashers damage my shipments at a rate of at least 10:1 over FedEx. What can Brown do for you?

Agree'd. The UPS Gorillas will destroy anything, especially this time of year. mad.gif

The best all time for me was a $7,500 supercharger that made it in 2 pieces. Still don't know how they did that one.
post #57 of 190
Thread Starter 
i picked the four sheets up from Lowes and it is legit 13 ply BB smile.gif . i dont trust them to cut it though, so i transported it to the place that used to over charge me for them to cut it for me. Ill pick it up next Friday and start cutting the holes and gluing these babies together!!
post #58 of 190
Quote:
Originally Posted by bass addict View Post

Agree'd. The UPS Gorillas will destroy anything, especially this time of year. mad.gif
The best all time for me was a $7,500 supercharger that made it in 2 pieces. Still don't know how they did that one.
"Hey, this does not sound like a bell, hit it again and see if it really is a bell or not"
post #59 of 190
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron Smith View Post

I'm going to go out on a limb and guess it was 'death by UPS'. I've had the United Package Smashers damage my shipments at a rate of at least 10:1 over FedEx. What can Brown do for you?

Very possible. It seems like something is just slightly out of spec and it's only a problem at the upper end of the power range. The other driver is 100% fine.

Quote:
Originally Posted by brian6751 View Post

I read through your thread again Gorilla. I'm definitely going with the 6.4ft^ cabs. You guys already did the back and forth thing.

I tried to tell you this. biggrin.gif
post #60 of 190
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gorilla83 View Post

Very possible. It seems like something is just slightly out of spec and it's only a problem at the upper end of the power range. The other driver is 100% fine.
I tried to tell you this. biggrin.gif

Have you tried to rotate the driver in the box to see if the knock goes away yet?
Quote:
Are you sure you wouldn't get into trouble applying 1k watts of power to these guys? Seems a little much to me.

Even SI has stated that in Dual-Opposed situation at a smaller box size, with around 1,000 watts, you should be well protected.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: DIY Speakers and Subs
AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › DIY Speakers and Subs › "The Grizzlies" Twin Dual Opposed Stereo Integrity HT18 Subwoofers