or Connect
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Brian's Bar Build - Page 3

post #61 of 137
Thread Starter 
Installed 1/4 cherry veneer over the outlets on the bartender's side....

post #62 of 137
How are you going to finish the bar top and rail? Are you doing an envriotex pour?
post #63 of 137
Thread Starter 
No, I prefer a look less thick than that, though that can obviously look great. I haven't chosen my exact varnish yet....
post #64 of 137
Thread Starter 
Corbels came in today....

post #65 of 137
Looking Good! What did you wind up with for the overhang distance?
post #66 of 137
Thread Starter 
I'm going to decide in the morning, but I'm leaning towards 12. I've read all the discussions, but to me the bottom line is that I've never seen anyone say they put in too much overhang. The knees need room, so you can "belly up" .. that's my thought.
post #67 of 137
Thread Starter 
Well, time to glue up the mahogany top...


post #68 of 137
Love the corbels. Are you going with a stain or are you keeping it natural? Fine work can't wait to see the bar rail.
post #69 of 137
Thread Starter 
I decided to stain the cherry in order to hide the sapwood and better match the mahogany top (planning to use a dye on that tomorrow once the bar rail gets here).

This will raise some eyebrows, but I decided to use a new minwax product called "color express" which is a stain/varnish mix, probably similar to their "one step" but it is thicker. Not as thick as gel stain. I went with this because my wife wanted lower VOC (this is water based) and the thicker consistency would work nicely on the vertical surface. It also obscures less grain than a gel stain (in my estimation). I applied it using paint pads and brushes, wiping down with a cotton cloth. I need to do some touch ups tomorrow... then I'll apply a wipe on poly....

post #70 of 137
Looks great. I'm with you on the low VOC, I used a regular varthane stain on my theater woodwork and we actually had to leave the house it was so bad. Good thing I had a respirator. I went with a water based poly because of that experience.
post #71 of 137
Thread Starter 
Here is the dye I chose: General Finish "Cinnamon"

post #72 of 137
Thread Starter 
Bar rail arrived...


Edited by hltr - 7/11/13 at 8:50am
post #73 of 137
Thread Starter 
General Finishes "Cinnamon" dye.



Edited by hltr - 7/12/13 at 2:22am
post #74 of 137
Thread Starter 
Close up of the color. I've never used a dye before, but I'm sold. It really leaves the grain apparent.

post #75 of 137
BEAUTIFUL!

One thing I learned was that I SHOULD have waited to install the bar rail until last.

REALLY nice work. Congrats.
post #76 of 137
Thread Starter 
When did you install it?
post #77 of 137
Thread Starter 
First coat of Behlens Rock Hard Table Varnish....

post #78 of 137
I built my cabinets, put on tbe base for the top and THEN put on the rail. Then I stained it. THEN I tiled the top. I had to work around the rail. I THOUGHT I left enough room to slide tne tile under, bit it didn't quite work out that way. I got it looking good, though. It would have been a LOT easier if I'd done all the staining and tiling and then attched the rail.
post #79 of 137
Thread Starter 
Ah. Well, the other side of that coin is that your tiles could have cracked over time had you put the rail on last.....
post #80 of 137
Thread Starter 
Another angle...

post #81 of 137
Thread Starter 
Well, I knew things were going all too smoothly on this build, time for some humble pie...

While laying down the second coat of varnish, part of the top started to blister, telling me that either I had a contaminant or the first coat had not cured. I knew that waiting for it to fully cure and then trying to sand out the problems was not an option, since any sanding was going to reach the dye and change the color. So....



Now the question was, could I apply the dye again and somehow feather this together? Working on that now...



Just applied the varnish this morning...I think I'm going to be ok. Going to wait a full 24 hours before I touch it though (even though Behlen's says 14 hours).
post #82 of 137
Thread Starter 
Back on track, I think...

post #83 of 137
Looks great in the pics, although I couldn'r really the see the problem in the frist place. nice job...I know what's like to have to clean up mistakes. I had a gluing error to fix. Now just don't tell anybody and they'll never notice.
post #84 of 137
Going be awesome! We are going to need a party shot will lots of people bellied up to the bar.
post #85 of 137
Thread Starter 
AppleMark
post #86 of 137
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by tlogan6797 View Post

Looks great in the pics, although I couldn'r really the see the problem in the frist place. nice job...I know what's like to have to clean up mistakes. I had a gluing error to fix. Now just don't tell anybody and they'll never notice.

Yeah I was too busy dealing with the blistering/wrinkling to take a picture when it happened....mad.gif
post #87 of 137
Thread Starter 
Ah well no worries for those who were wondering what the flaws in the varnish looked like...it happened again!

AppleMark

There seems to be some relation to the grain, I'm thinking maybe that since I didn't use pore filler, there is some dust/debris in the deeper grain spots. Anyway, this time I am not going to overreact. Just going to let this fully cure, sand, and see what I can do. Going to get some naphtha and hopefully clean it fully before next coat.
post #88 of 137
OH, CRAP! That REALLY sucks.

Didn't you say you used a gel stain first? I found that there were several places I had to really work the stain into the grain and I ended up with a few spots like that after applying my topcoat, but in my case they are really not noticible, so I'm not gointg to point them out.

I'm guessing that because the stain didn't get down into the grain and seal it, your top coat is being absorbed at different rates and causing this. You did a great job fixing it the last time, just take your time and do it again.
post #89 of 137
Thread Starter 
I used a gel-type product on the knee wall (Minwax Color Express), but for the top I used a water-based dye stain from General Finishes. My sense is that this is related to not filling the pores, but not sure. We'll see where it goes...
post #90 of 137
Thread Starter 
Fully stripped the top. Leaving the bar rail since that has two coats without issues. Switching to Waterlox.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home