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Wall studs are 48" apart

post #1 of 10
Thread Starter 
I'm wanting to mount my new flatscreen, but I don't trust putting it into drywall since the tv weighs 80LBS without the stand. It really needs to be mounted because the stand for it is a crappy little triangle with cheap, tiny screws in it, I just can't trust it.

So, the wall studs on the only wall I care to mount it on are 48" apart. I can't find a mount with a back plate that large. The only mounts I have found for 70" TVs come with two backplates.

What I'm thinking of doing is getting 2 sections of 50" steel flat bar and bolting them to the studs, in the end. Also, having drilled holes into the bars where I will bolt my backplate onto, drill holes into the sheetrock. This will make room for the bolts and nuts that will hold the tv mount onto the steel bar. And then finish the setup from there.

Does anyone think that using steel bar to span the 4' gap will work, or have any reason that it definitely will not?

It's either this or buy a stand at walmart that it will mount onto. HAHA
post #2 of 10
How about cutting the dry wall out where the TV will be, adding 2x4 cross bracing, running power and signal in the wall be hind the Display and the repairing the dry wall. You wont' see the seam even you don't do a great job, an you mount will be flat on the dry wall with power and signal behind...
Or bar stock as you mention or even a 1x3 would be plenty to hold 80lbs.
post #3 of 10
Something seems off...I dont think a 48" span is legal anywhere, and may be a cause for concern if it was a DIY job. Maybe cut a couple holes to double check.
post #4 of 10
Definitely cut holes, double gang size, cover with blank plates. They'll be hidden by the TV anyway. The studs may be there, but your stud finder may suck.

+1, put in some sturdy 2x4s in there, and drywall over. And take the opportunity to hide cables. Use a Power Bridge for the power outlet.
post #5 of 10
My stud finder had an awful time with my plaster walls so I ended up cutting out a section that I knew would be hidden. Just a 1 inch wide hole across the area and I found 2 studs at weird spots but they were there.

Cut a viewing hole across the area you will mount to and just confirm that there are no studs there. I would then add 2 2x4's in and redrywall the area. You can hide everything nice with the wall open too.
post #6 of 10
Could be a wide doorway covered over - improperly at that. Try measuring over 16in from the studs you found and drive in a nail. There may still be a stud under there. If not I agree with tearing it out and fixing it right.

Your initial steel bar idea would be fine too.
post #7 of 10
I hate stud finders and have the worst luck with them. I can run it along the wall 10 times and it detects the same spot 10 times, I drill into drywall and get pissed.....

What I have always had luck with though are the magnetic stud finders where it is literally a very powerful magnet that will attach where any nails are in the drywall. Its pretty much flawless since it will just magnetize to a nail (where a stud must be).


http://www.sears.com/c-h-hanson-ch-hanson-03040-magnetic-stud-finder/p-00935595000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1
post #8 of 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by mginster View Post

I hate stud finders and have the worst luck with them. I can run it along the wall 10 times and it detects the same spot 10 times, I drill into drywall and get pissed.....
What I have always had luck with though are the magnetic stud finders where it is literally a very powerful magnet that will attach where any nails are in the drywall. Its pretty much flawless since it will just magnetize to a nail (where a stud must be).
http://www.sears.com/c-h-hanson-ch-hanson-03040-magnetic-stud-finder/p-00935595000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1

I have found 2 of these magnets stuck together work just perfectly for finding the nails/screw that will be in the studs..
http://www.joann.com/vintage-collection-magnets-1-2-x1-16-12-pk-/zprd_11374139a/
post #9 of 10
Do the right thing and open it up, throw a stud in there to make it 24" on center at least and drywall it.

Also if you do not like the screws the plates came with go to your hardware store and get some 3" ones. If the holes don't work drill some larger holes.
post #10 of 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Budwyzer View Post

...the wall studs on the only wall I care to mount it on are 48" apart...
Are you sure? Common stud spacings are 24" and 16" OC. Sometimes they can be off a little, usually closer. If they really are 48" OC you likely need to do something about it.
Quote:
Does anyone think that using steel bar to span the 4' gap will work, or have any reason that it definitely will not?
No reason why it cannot work. Expect some sag, and you will have to do something to keep it tight to the wall.

BTW if the studs are metal, you will need to open up the wall and reinforce them to do the job right.
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