Can someone lend me their Chromapure with auto calibrate?

The software you can download from the website, the only thing you need from Tom is the license. You sure he didn't mail you the license? Spamfolder?

You'll need the licence for your particular meter anyway, so unless you have someone nearby willing to lend you their meter too, then it's a non starter I think. I guess they did it this way to prevent piracy, so it's hard to blame them for it as otherwise someone would have a licence to download on some dodgy website...

Bear in mind that there is still a small amount of sitting in the dark fiddling with the controls before you press the autocal button: To many people seem to think that you just plug the meter in and press go to achieve perfect result.

Did you take a real careful look at everything in the box? I mean to think that Tom would ship a meter to the other side of the world without the license key needed to use it would seems rather unlikely. Do you have only one email address, as it sounds like the license is sent via email.

The licenses for me have always come by email. I got a license file yesterday from him for a meter I just aquired. He responded in a just a few hours.

I sent you a license and download link last night to your anz.com account at 10:14PM Central Standard time. Check your spam folder.

Don't forget that 100% white balance needs to be adjusted in the display too for best results before starting the autocal.

The autocal process should save it into the Duo's memory (it does on my Lumagen anyway) at the end. Hopefully a fellow Duo owner could confirm this?

You should adjust your display's RGB gain controls to give the lowest dE using a 100% white test pattern before starting the autocal. There isn't any need to adjust the other % points, but certainly this is the recommended process in the Lumagen tips for autocal. It's a bit beyond the scope of this thread to start explaining in detail how to do this if you don't know, but instead I would recommend that you read the thread below, noting the section about greyscale calibration in the first post:

http://www.avsforum.com/t/852536/basic-guide-to-color-calibration-using-a-cms-updated-and-enhanced

It doesn't seem bad at all to me, though perhaps I would manually check and readjust the 30% reading before continuing with the colour gamut autocal. The 100% has a dE of 1.5 which is within the off quoted 3dE that we are supposed to be unable to detect. It could even be within the repeatablity of the meter/dispay anyway. No harm trying to adjust the 100% to be as close to 0dE before you start, but I wonder if it will make any visible improvement after the autocal anyway.

If you are struggling with low level reading due to low light output, it might be worth trying the sensor with it facing the screen (difuser in place) with the appropriate settings applied in Chromapure. You can even create an offset in Chromapure using the reference and field meter set up area, but if your screen is neutral then perhaps this might not be so critical.

If that is the post calibration result then your dE isn't less than 1, so not sure what you mean. Do you have another response that shows 30% at a lower dE? I know that sometimes I've ended up with losing results by not saving my Chromapure session. There isn't anything stopping you from running another post calibration check which should use your corrected settings in the Duo and will use the Duo as the signal generator too just to confirm that you have a good result at 30%.

Sorry if it's a bit 'sucking eggs' but you did set the contrast and brightness before starting the autocal didn't you?

Sorry I'm not a Duo owner, so some of my 'help' might be misguided. However, just to get things clear and hopefully to help:

Are you changing the gamma setting (target) in Chromapure? Or is this just the 'base' gamma in the projector? For example I use custom gamma 2.3 as a base for my X35, my target setting was 2.22.

After calibration, try using something like the AVS HD709 test disc:

Find the black full screen test pattern and then adjust the brightness control on the projector down. See if the screen gets any darker. If it does (and especially if you have to adjust a few clicks down before it won't get any darker) then something is wrong in the chain from your player to the Duo and projector.

When you use autocal it is calibrating the output of the Duo to the projector, but you still need to make sure that the Duo's input controls and the player's settings are correctly matched. A simple example might be using HDMI in 'PC' mode (0-255 RGB) which could give elevated blacks if the projector is set to 16-235 RGB. Or another could be that the brightness controls for the Duo's inputs are set too high (I'm assuming it has them like my Lumagen does).

Other set up items to check would be to investigate which colour space setting from your player gives the best result and then make sure that the projector is set to accept this setting (rather than relying on 'auto' which is the default option in JVC menus. Set the JVC HDMI to 'Superwhite' or 'Standard' (the later will limit peak white to 235 the former will allow up to 255 and both will clip below 16 so setting brightness may be slightly harder, though I find '0' is spot on anyway). Set the input to 4:2:2 (or whichever colour space you decide works best with your player and to match the output setting of the Duo) as auto can sometimes select the wrong option, which would usually be obvious with completely 'wrong' colours but could give you raised blacks if using RGB signals and auto decides to select the 'PC' level instead of 'Video RGB' for example.

Make sure that the RGB offsets in the JVC are set to '0' before the autocal. If you increase them above 0 it will raise the black floor and lowering them can cause crushing, so best left alone.

I selected 'Standard' colour space in my X35 which has a slightly oversaturated colour gamut, though I may try 'Wide' next time. If you change this setting you will need to readjust the 100% whitebalance again before re running autocal.

Hope some of this helps.

There isn't a problem using enhanced so long as the brightness and contrast are adjusted to suit, so I suspect it won't solve the problem you are having if everything was adjusted correctly prior to starting the autocal. However, if your player was set to enhanced then this might cause a problem as it would cause a mismatch between the calibration using the Duo as a signal generator compared to using your player as a source. A quick test would be to see if the test pattern for 0% (ie black) from the Duo is darker than using a test pattern off a disc from your player.

I just never see the point myself using enhanced as you end up with the same peak white and darkest black, just with different settings. I also wonder if using enhanced might be more prone to banding as the same range of signal is spread over a larger number of steps (0-255 instead of 16-235/255).

FYI, Greg Rogers used the Enhanced setting in one of his prior RS reviews (and needless to mention, GR knows what he's doing). I believe he used it because it had a bit less black crush and that is exactly what I find as well. I have seen absolutely no banding or other artifacts using Standard/Enhanced settings. Also, one can see blacker than black using HDMI enhanced which is not possible using HDMI Standard

The advantage to using Enhanced is that it is only here that you can see below black information. This helps with setting black level.

Yes I concede the point that it's easier to set the black level, but I don't find it hard anyway using the AVS disc or the patterns in my Lumagen using Standard or Superwhite in my X35.

I'm less convinced as to why enhanced should give less black crush than standard if the black levels are set correctly in each case. With brightness at 0 and a 2.22 gamma I can just about make out the flashing 17 bar on the AVS test pattern (but only if I stand in the shadow of the white text across the 16 bar). I will try the enhanced option to see if I find any difference, but I suspect that after the 125 point autocal any slight variations in gamma that might account for it would be evened out, which is possibly what accounts for the black crush that Geof mentions.

I don't know why enhanced works out but it did with my RS55 and it does with my RS4810. I don't care about seeing blacker than black - it comes with the setting but it is not the reason I chose that setting....