AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › DIY Speakers and Subs › High output, multiple driver DIY main recommendations?
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

High output, multiple driver DIY main recommendations? - Page 4

post #91 of 478
12/30/12 at 11:15am
Mr. Gorilla83, just make the center channel a couple inches shorter and put the ports out the side.

OR, if you were only going to use two 3" ports, we could do away with the middle one that's under the woofer and shift the side ports up far enough to probably save the 2" you need. That could be the best option of all. The main reason the box is that tall is due to the middle port directly under the woofer.
Reply
Reply

AVS Top Picks

post #92 of 478
12/30/12 at 11:52pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by FOH View Post

Great post
Typically, it seems the SHO/PRO-10s have a nice subjective appeal. Some individuals that I believe generally know what they're talking, about have little bad to say about them in purely subjective listening evaluations. Sure, they've got known issues in both design and execution.
It's interesting reading G-Rilla's impressions of the newly powered versions. There's nothing like ample power reserves. At one time I used some 8" two way Klipsch LCRs, and I switched to an EP4000 powered front setup,.... from previously an AVR powered approach. The difference was nice, really allowed the two ways to sing. An amp subtly encountering it's limits, doesn't nearly sound as good as high current/ample voltage swing.
I'm convinced clipping occurs way before many realize, as the dynamic swings and leading edges of big transients are extraordinarily demanding, and this peak capability is what attributes to many amplifiers apparent "sound". I owned and experimented extensively with two models RB-35, RB-75. The lesser of the two had a very modest power rating,...like 125-150 watts. The EP4K rocks ~650w per side @4ohms, .... I lit those things up, ..no problem. The EPK set-up version sounded better than th 125w AVR setup. No those modest Klipsch aren't SHO-10s, but I understand the new found dilemma.
This diy community here is strong. Much fantastic discussion/advice given,...solid stuff.
Please, I'm not wanting to reinvent the wheel, however I'd approach the entire process with acoustics, first and foremost in mind.
It's no secret, achieving a quality audio experience in the home, is overwhelmingly dominated by loudspeakers, and acoustics. To really delineate everything a new set of mains has to offer, a look at the room's acoustic environment would be a prudent step. At minimum, addressing all the acoustic "low hanging fruit" would create an exponential bang for the buck from that point forward. Just saying another look at your room's treatment needs would likely pay huge dividends.
Yeah, there's measurable/audible differences among comp drivers. Likewise, LF drivers have characteristics unique to them. Both pattern control and matching each section's characteristics are worthy attributes. Pursuing a reduction in diffraction, and an entirely inert cabinet help imaging, detail and overall clarity. All that is significant. But man, not as significant as the acoustic distortions involved in speakers/subs interacting in small rooms.
Due to great work, the science is well understood. The room can easily impart huge 20-30dB swings to an otherwise superbly designed and executed loudspeaker. We all owe a debt of gratitude to Erich, and those individuals that designed the SEOS profile, etc. A two way SEOS based set of mains in well executed cabinets would keep you happy for a long time.
G-Rilla, I've thoroughly enjoyed your threads, ...loved your subs, .... loved the GTG, this too I'm enjoying. I'm way behind the curve wrt diy mains design, and aside from a comment like good enough fo Geddes, good enough for me, that's all I've got.
But I do know that the performance of both subs and mains, are entirely dominated by their acoustic environment. It's all about the room. I'm just suggesting a unified approach, with acoustics needs just as prominent as the loudspeaker needs, because the two can't really can't be separated.
Following along,
All the best.

Exactly. And time for another car analogy. Why try to run your high end sports car off regular gas when it's meant for high test smile.gif

How much diy people are putting into these main builds and not powering externally with pro amps. The speakers they are choosing are meant to handle more than any AVR can deliver ie PRO.

I mean you wouldn't build your uber 18" sealed sub and power it with a bash300s would ya biggrin.gif , no cause that's cutting it short.
The SHOs are definitely hard to beat for compact size and capability,especially if you properly amp them with what they can handle. The 90x90 eminence waveguide's or not it covers my entire front sound stage at 18 or so ft wide seating area. The delta10a appears in plenty of the SEOS kits. Food for thought.
Reply
Reply
post #93 of 478
12/31/12 at 6:58am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by zheka View Post

not to annoy you any more, but why can't you retrofit your existing frame with AT material, "float" it a foot or two away from the back wall and hide only the center channel behind it? you will have to move the middle vertical bar of the frame to the side, but that should not be difficult to do.
full blown screen walls may look nicer, but floating screens is an acceptable compromise imo.

When I spend the time and effort to do the AT screen I will definitely do a full wall and probably bump the screen size a little.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mtg90 View Post

You can expect an f3 of around 80hz if you go sealed, they may go a little deeper depending on placement so a 60hz crossover is not out of the question. You could always stick the ports out the side of the box as well.
The Delta Pro that is already in Winisd is an older one, you need to plug in the new data for that driver, xmax is 4.6mm on that one.

Good to know - i didn't know if the Pro 12 was the same as the 12A - guess not. smile.gif Hmm a 80hz sealed doesn't sound bad.

Although the more I look at it the more I'm considering doing a slot port. I saw Brad's build on here with the JBL 2226's and his box height was 27.5" with a 2" slot port which would be right on the money for me. smile.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by Erich H View Post

Mr. Gorilla83, just make the center channel a couple inches shorter and put the ports out the side.
OR, if you were only going to use two 3" ports, we could do away with the middle one that's under the woofer and shift the side ports up far enough to probably save the 2" you need. That could be the best option of all. The main reason the box is that tall is due to the middle port directly under the woofer.

Erich - Side and/or rear ports would potentially work, but my OCD would want all 3 up front to match. I'm leaning toward a slot port as that seems like it would give me the right amount of room to work with. Do you guys have a baffle of the right height I could use and cut slot ports into? I wish those blank baffles with the SEOS 12 cutout were wide enough for a 15" driver. frown.gif That would be awesome and would save me a ton of time!! I noticed the sealed 15" JBL baffle is only 25" height, correct? I don't think that would allow me enough space for a 2" slot, right?
Edited by Gorilla83 - 12/31/12 at 7:06am
Reply
Reply
post #94 of 478
12/31/12 at 7:01am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by FOH View Post

Great post
Typically, it seems the SHO/PRO-10s have a nice subjective appeal. Some individuals that I believe generally know what they're talking, about have little bad to say about them in purely subjective listening evaluations. Sure, they've got known issues in both design and execution.
It's interesting reading G-Rilla's impressions of the newly powered versions. There's nothing like ample power reserves. At one time I used some 8" two way Klipsch LCRs, and I switched to an EP4000 powered front setup,.... from previously an AVR powered approach. The difference was nice, really allowed the two ways to sing. An amp subtly encountering it's limits, doesn't nearly sound as good as high current/ample voltage swing.
I'm convinced clipping occurs way before many realize, as the dynamic swings and leading edges of big transients are extraordinarily demanding, and this peak capability is what attributes to many amplifiers apparent "sound". I owned and experimented extensively with two models RB-35, RB-75. The lesser of the two had a very modest power rating,...like 125-150 watts. The EP4K rocks ~650w per side @4ohms, .... I lit those things up, ..no problem. The EPK set-up version sounded better than th 125w AVR setup. No those modest Klipsch aren't SHO-10s, but I understand the new found dilemma.
This diy community here is strong. Much fantastic discussion/advice given,...solid stuff.
Please, I'm not wanting to reinvent the wheel, however I'd approach the entire process with acoustics, first and foremost in mind.
It's no secret, achieving a quality audio experience in the home, is overwhelmingly dominated by loudspeakers, and acoustics. To really delineate everything a new set of mains has to offer, a look at the room's acoustic environment would be a prudent step. At minimum, addressing all the acoustic "low hanging fruit" would create an exponential bang for the buck from that point forward. Just saying another look at your room's treatment needs would likely pay huge dividends.
Yeah, there's measurable/audible differences among comp drivers. Likewise, LF drivers have characteristics unique to them. Both pattern control and matching each section's characteristics are worthy attributes. Pursuing a reduction in diffraction, and an entirely inert cabinet help imaging, detail and overall clarity. All that is significant. But man, not as significant as the acoustic distortions involved in speakers/subs interacting in small rooms.
Due to great work, the science is well understood. The room can easily impart huge 20-30dB swings to an otherwise superbly designed and executed loudspeaker. We all owe a debt of gratitude to Erich, and those individuals that designed the SEOS profile, etc. A two way SEOS based set of mains in well executed cabinets would keep you happy for a long time.
G-Rilla, I've thoroughly enjoyed your threads, ...loved your subs, .... loved the GTG, this too I'm enjoying. I'm way behind the curve wrt diy mains design, and aside from a comment like good enough fo Geddes, good enough for me, that's all I've got.
But I do know that the performance of both subs and mains, are entirely dominated by their acoustic environment. It's all about the room. I'm just suggesting a unified approach, with acoustics needs just as prominent as the loudspeaker needs, because the two can't really can't be separated.
Following along,
All the best.

I'm glad you are enjoying the threads - that's what this forum/section is all about right? wink.gif

The pro amp on the SHOs was the right move for now. It will hold me over until I get my next set of LCR built. cool.gif

I'm in total agreement that the room is just as important, if not more important, than the equipment. My room/treatments are a continuous work in progress. Right now I've got the corners and side treatments covered. Soon enough I'm covering the whole ceiling and wall/ceiling perimeter with 2 layers of 1 foot thick R-38 above my ceiling tiles. It will turn the whole space from the subfloor on the next level to my ceilling into a huge bass trap. biggrin.gif
Reply
Reply
post #95 of 478
12/31/12 at 7:19am
Gorilla
Love my morning routine of checkin the updates on your threads. When are these mains being built? Sry for now until I start building my room I gotta live vicariously through your builds smile.gif
Reply
Reply
post #96 of 478
12/31/12 at 7:36am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gorilla83 View Post


Erich - Side and/or rear ports would potentially work, but my OCD would want all 3 up front to match. I'm leaning toward a slot port as that seems like it would give me the right amount of room to work with. Do you guys have a baffle of the right height I could use and cut slot ports into? I wish those blank baffles with the SEOS 12 cutout were wide enough for a 15" driver. frown.gif That would be awesome and would save me a ton of time!! I noticed the sealed 15" JBL baffle is only 25" height, correct? I don't think that would allow me enough space for a 2" slot, right?


Because these kits are all fairly new, I can get some custom stuff done for the time being. You tell me exactly what you want for that front baffle, and I will do my best.

But you should ask MTG about the idea of using 2 ports which would certainly make the box shorter. Of course that would be a bit custom too, so it doesn't really matter either way.

There's currently a custom baffle being done for another forum member and a SEOS-15. So I can get yours done at the same time. Yours might be done sooner just because the cuts are already programmed at the CNC company.
Reply
Reply
post #97 of 478
12/31/12 at 8:12am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gorilla83 View Post

I'm glad you are enjoying the threads - that's what this forum/section is all about right? wink.gif
The pro amp on the SHOs was the right move for now. It will hold me over until I get my next set of LCR built. cool.gif
I'm in total agreement that the room is just as important, if not more important, than the equipment. My room/treatments are a continuous work in progress. Right now I've got the corners and side treatments covered. Soon enough I'm covering the whole ceiling and wall/ceiling perimeter with 2 layers of 1 foot thick R-38 above my ceiling tiles. It will turn the whole space from the subfloor on the next level to my ceilling into a huge bass trap. biggrin.gif

Above your ceiling tiles? Not sure other than leakage to the room above what this might accomplish assuming you are keeping the ceiling tiles in place. It might help to remove some of the ceiling panels while you are at it and replace them with some type of A-T panels. I am about to try this out to attempt to solve any ceiling reflections I am getting. I already have black 2x2 tiles so with the lights even on, doing some type of speaker grill/oc703 type tiles, I Shouldn't even tell the difference of the look, but certainly the sound smile.gif
Reply
Reply
post #98 of 478
12/31/12 at 8:32am
Gorilla,

If you where to go with a 2" high slot port using a 16.75" wide baffle (same as the kit) I fugure it should be about 10" long. You could throw a brace down the middle of the port too and 10" is still fine. To keep internal volume the same the enclosure should be 16.75"w x 27.5"h x 14.5"d (thats with a double thick fromt baffle)

You could also do the two ports pushed up and to the side some like Erich said. Two 3" ports 5" long would work for that, same enclsoure size as above.
Reply
Reply
post #99 of 478
12/31/12 at 10:00am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post

Above your ceiling tiles? Not sure other than leakage to the room above what this might accomplish assuming you are keeping the ceiling tiles in place. It might help to remove some of the ceiling panels while you are at it and replace them with some type of A-T panels. I am about to try this out to attempt to solve any ceiling reflections I am getting. I already have black 2x2 tiles so with the lights even on, doing some type of speaker grill/oc703 type tiles, I Shouldn't even tell the difference of the look, but certainly the sound smile.gif

Yeah man. I had gone back and forth with Ethan W. in a few threads regarding the best approach to treat the ceiling. Originally I had planned to build a bunch of panels and cover them and attach to the ceiling, which apparently is not the best approach. One option is to cover or replace existing tiles with something like 703 board, but even better is to lay R-38 on top of them. Check this out - good discussion: Hit me up, we can chat some more on this. smile.gif

http://acapella.harmony-central.com/showthread.php?2302479-quot-Drop-quot-Ceilings-%28grids%29-and-Acoustic-Treatment&s=108b752ddf2e9d2e740d6986d8851be2

Quote:
Originally Posted by mtg90 View Post

Gorilla,
If you where to go with a 2" high slot port using a 16.75" wide baffle (same as the kit) I fugure it should be about 10" long. You could throw a brace down the middle of the port too and 10" is still fine. To keep internal volume the same the enclosure should be 16.75"w x 27.5"h x 14.5"d (thats with a double thick fromt baffle)
You could also do the two ports pushed up and to the side some like Erich said. Two 3" ports 5" long would work for that, same enclsoure size as above.

That would be perfect - I would prefer the slot port instead of moving the two circular ports up if possible.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Erich H View Post

Because these kits are all fairly new, I can get some custom stuff done for the time being. You tell me exactly what you want for that front baffle, and I will do my best.
But you should ask MTG about the idea of using 2 ports which would certainly make the box shorter. Of course that would be a bit custom too, so it doesn't really matter either way.
There's currently a custom baffle being done for another forum member and a SEOS-15. So I can get yours done at the same time. Yours might be done sooner just because the cuts are already programmed at the CNC company.

Erich - As I stated in your PM, that would be awesome! If you can do something like Erich mentioned above in 16.75Wx27.5hx14.5d with a 2" tall slot port that would be awesome. I'll assume the port would be about 15" wide? That seems to model OK. I'd assume I'd be building the slot port brace myself which is fine. If you're going to do a custom baffle for me (and maybe others) I'll take 5 of them (baffles) in case I decide to build them as surrounds or something. smile.gif Let me know and we'll get this done. cool.gif
Reply
Reply
post #100 of 478
12/31/12 at 10:04am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ehoeft View Post

Gorilla
Love my morning routine of checkin the updates on your threads. When are these mains being built? Sry for now until I start building my room I gotta live vicariously through your builds smile.gif

I'm glad you are enjoying. Originally I was going to take my time planning and building within the next couple months but it seems we have some momentum here now, LOL. biggrin.gif
Reply
Reply
post #101 of 478
12/31/12 at 12:04pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post

Above your ceiling tiles? Not sure other than leakage to the room above what this might accomplish assuming you are keeping the ceiling tiles in place. It might help to remove some of the ceiling panels while you are at it and replace them with some type of A-T panels. I am about to try this out to attempt to solve any ceiling reflections I am getting. I already have black 2x2 tiles so with the lights even on, doing some type of speaker grill/oc703 type tiles, I Shouldn't even tell the difference of the look, but certainly the sound smile.gif

Typical ceiling tiles, spaced off the joists, then filling said space with fluffy batts makes for a very effective bass trap.


Now, with regard to the first reflected MF/HF energy off the ceiling, one can often benefit from additional treatment to effectively reduce it's negative impact being detrimental to the diect energy from the mains. Whether that's diffusion or absorption, either way that reflected energy is best lowered as much as possible (ideally 30dB) relative to direct sound energy from the mains, in the critical first couple dozen millisec.


I prefer an entirely black hole amount of ceiling treatment between the LP and mains. Similarly, the front wall can be entirely absorptive, w/thick bass trap based broadband treatment, and as much thickness/space as one can spare. A properly bass trapped space is a wondeful thing, and relatively inexpensive if diy implemented. Few, if any, HT spaces I've seen here at AVS have ample LF trapping. The room just owns the bass response primarily in the time domain, but very significantly in the freq domain as well.


Once one reduces the majority of the acoustic distortions, stripping away most of the negative room influences, you can elicit a headphone like bass clarity, yet maintaining the visceral/tactile component that's missing with head-worn playback.


Like I stated before, I can't help much w/diy mains, except to recomend the B&C stuff; ... "Good enough for Geddes", etc. Also, I like the B&C coax in my Catalysts. But all the incredible help here has that covered. Geddes' thoughts here on small room acoustics etc., are interesting if you've not read them.


Continued good luck, .. and Happy New Year
Reply
Reply
post #102 of 478
12/31/12 at 12:53pm
Thanks foh, You hit on what I was kinda suggesting to definitely take into effect MF and HF absorption while you Rilla is at it smile.gif if messing with the ceiling tiles, the obvious benefit of bass trapping above the ceiling is a no brainer, but below the tile, perhaps acoustimat or something along these lines:

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=300-900
Reply
Reply
post #103 of 478
12/31/12 at 4:26pm
i knew this was coming biggrin.gif

Have you given thought to the Malcolm or "BUC" as a center instead of a matching 3 across the front. Same CD and SEOS 12 but different mids, would fit your space much better

BUC
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1440063/diy-seos-for-ht-upgrade/0_100

Malcolm
http://www.diysoundgroup.com/forum/index.php?topic=11.0
Reply
Reply
post #104 of 478
12/31/12 at 7:21pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sibuna View Post

i knew this was coming biggrin.gif
Have you given thought to the Malcolm or "BUC" as a center instead of a matching 3 across the front. Same CD and SEOS 12 but different mids, would fit your space much better
BUC
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1440063/diy-seos-for-ht-upgrade/0_100
Malcolm
http://www.diysoundgroup.com/forum/index.php?topic=11.0

Oh yes I had a good look at those as well. Erich (and Matt) and I have been working on a custom baffle that will fit the B&C setup under my screen with a slot port design.

You knew it was only a matter of time anyway. biggrin.gif
Reply
Reply
post #105 of 478
12/31/12 at 7:25pm
Are you building surrounds too or using your SHO's. Curious to what would match well with the B&C 15's
Reply
Reply
post #106 of 478
12/31/12 at 7:39pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ehoeft View Post

Are you building surrounds too or using your SHO's. Curious to what would match well with the B&C 15's

Definitely building surrounds but will use the SHOs for now.

Would be cool to see a 10" B&C offering.

Hmm. Not sure how the 15 b&c would blend with the deltamax 10s?
Reply
Reply
post #107 of 478
12/31/12 at 7:46pm
depending on when you build you may be able to answer that at the next G2G
cool.gif
Reply
Reply
post #108 of 478
12/31/12 at 8:02pm
Jeez man, you have mad eme spend more $$ again. I had three Tempest kits on order from DIY and they hadn't shipped yet. I found the B&C 15" Sentinel kit, and changed the order.....very psyched! I actually went back and forth today with Erich by email and we talked surrounds for a bit. As of now, my plan is to do the 8" B&C kit, which Erich says is the perfect match. I do, as you Gorilla said, like the idea of a potentially larger B&C surround kit. I think we are both in positions were we have some time to get the mains, build them and see if anything comes up on that front before going into the surround builds. I just can't believe how quickly this spreads.
Reply
Reply
post #109 of 478
12/31/12 at 8:36pm
Thread Starter 
Something like this would be sweet as a surround, although almost as pricey as the 15:

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=294-659

I'd ideally like to make a matching set of 5, but my concern with the 15ps76 is it appears to be discontinued and it might be hard to get matching drivers by the time I'm ready for surrounds. frown.gif
Reply
Reply
post #110 of 478
12/31/12 at 8:41pm
15's for surrounds is just ...... Dumb.
Reply
Reply
post #111 of 478
12/31/12 at 8:52pm
The 8" B&C models were made for surround duty with the 15's. Well, at least that was some of the thought anyway.
Reply
Reply
post #112 of 478
12/31/12 at 9:13pm
Yeah me and Erich talked that over for a while, a lot of the B&C 10's don't model all that great, cost almost as much as the 15" and only offer a little more performance then the 8" does. So the idea was to just stick with the 8" and 15" B&C models. I think the 8" design is quite capable of keeping up the 15" when used as surrounds.

I do think that most the SEOS designs would sound rather similar in which case the Delta-10 max model should work well as a surround speaker if you wanted to go that route.
Edited by mtg90 - 12/31/12 at 9:18pm
Reply
Reply
post #113 of 478
1/1/13 at 5:10am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Erich H View Post

The 8" B&C models were made for surround duty with the 15's. Well, at least that was some of the thought anyway.

Erich - would it not be better to match with something that uses the seos12/dna350 or 360? I would the horns would have similar sounds and would be most noticable.

I guess I'm probably being too fussy for surround use. Right now I use deftech bpx surrounds and they actually sound awesome and they aren't even close to matching my fronts.
Edited by Gorilla83 - 1/1/13 at 5:29am
Reply
Reply
post #114 of 478
1/1/13 at 5:44am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChopShop1 View Post

Jeez man, you have mad eme spend more $$ again. I had three Tempest kits on order from DIY and they hadn't shipped yet. I found the B&C 15" Sentinel kit, and changed the order.....very psyched! I actually went back and forth today with Erich by email and we talked surrounds for a bit. As of now, my plan is to do the 8" B&C kit, which Erich says is the perfect match. I do, as you Gorilla said, like the idea of a potentially larger B&C surround kit. I think we are both in positions were we have some time to get the mains, build them and see if anything comes up on that front before going into the surround builds. I just can't believe how quickly this spreads.

Funny enough Erich mentioned that someone recently switched their order to the b&c's. I was guessing it was someone reading this thread. biggrin.gif
Reply
Reply
post #115 of 478
1/1/13 at 6:06am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gorilla83 View Post

Something like this would be sweet as a surround, although almost as pricey as the 15:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=294-659
I'd ideally like to make a matching set of 5, but my concern with the 15ps76 is it appears to be discontinued and it might be hard to get matching drivers by the time I'm ready for surrounds. frown.gif

I would think/hope, that if it is discontiued that one could implement a similar B&C driver with relative ease.(says the guy who can't design anything:D). From my talks with Erich, I think the 8" model will do just fine with surround duty.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gorilla83 View Post

Funny enough Erich mentioned that someone recently switched their order to the b&c's. I was guessing it was someone reading this thread. biggrin.gif

Hahahaha...We have very similar goals I think:) I am a relative novice to the diy home theater world, but know what kind of performance I am after. My personality is the type that if I built the Tempest and thought I gave up one ounce of performance to another desgn, I wouldn't truly enjoy it..I would sit there wondering how much better it could have been. From the sounds of it, the difference won't even be noticable for the most part, but what the hey. You have truly helped me to find some desings that will met my goals...and helped empty my pockets:D
Reply
Reply
post #116 of 478
1/1/13 at 6:42am
On the B&C website it says the 15" woofer will still be produced and it can still be ordered. But I'm not sure if Parts Express will carry it. No doubt we'd find another model pretty quick, or I could call B&C and try to special order them if needed.

You'll notice that they are now out of stock at PE because I drove there yesterday and picked up the 10 they had left. biggrin.gif I've also got one that I bought a couple weeks ago to make sure it fit in the CNC baffle but never wired up.

I'm not really sure what to tell you about the surrounds. I currently have one Karma-10 in my living room that uses the same compression driver as the 8" B&C Fusion model. That one speaker will fill the entire room with some pretty loud music. Basically, any of these will be more than enough for surround duty.
Edited by Erich H - 1/1/13 at 6:50am
Reply
Reply
post #117 of 478
1/1/13 at 7:14am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Erich H View Post

On the B&C website it says the 15" woofer will still be produced and it can still be ordered. But I'm not sure if Parts Express will carry it. No doubt we'd find another model pretty quick, or I could call B&C and try to special order them if needed.
You'll notice that they are now out of stock at PE because I drove there yesterday and picked up the 10 they had left. biggrin.gif I've also got one that I bought a couple weeks ago to make sure it fit in the CNC baffle but never wired up.
I'm not really sure what to tell you about the surrounds. I currently have one Karma-10 in my living room that uses the same compression driver as the 8" B&C Fusion model. That one speaker will fill the entire room with some pretty loud music. Basically, any of these will be more than enough for surround duty.

Thanks Erich. Like I said earlier I'm probably over thinking the surround situation. I'll worry about that later and focus on the mains for now though. Still looking good for those custom baffles? biggrin.gif
Reply
Reply
post #118 of 478
1/1/13 at 7:55am
Quote:
Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post

Thanks foh, You hit on what I was kinda suggesting to definitely take into effect MF and HF absorption while you Rilla is at it smile.gif if messing with the ceiling tiles, the obvious benefit of bass trapping above the ceiling is a no brainer, but below the tile, perhaps acoustimat or something along these lines:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=300-900

Myself, I don't really like those for many applications. They're so thin, then they're cut in half due to the wedge cut pattern,....critically needed material is removed. You'd be better off with a fully intact foam panel in the same thickness, or cheaper and most effective just go with rigid 703 or equivalent.

I've performed a lot of acoustic experiments. in my room, and total effectiveness much depends on the angles involved.

The only way I'd use foam, is to address grazing angles, and ineffective treatment material due to angle of incidence/slight grazing angles. Placing them on the face of a diy treatment panel to better "catch" the HF that would otherwise glance off, could work.

DIY panels with a porous face of less gas flow resistivity, ie, the first few inches (fluffy fiberglass, or maybe foam). Then backed with a regular 703 fiberglass panel, etc, is an effective multi-material approach that's effective at greater angles of incidence,....an element quite often overlooked.

Andrew, is your system 5.1, are you considering 7.1, or heights/wides?

Maybe you've already touched on this and I missed it.

Thanks
Reply
Reply
post #119 of 478
1/1/13 at 10:18am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by FOH View Post


Andrew, is your system 5.1, are you considering 7.1, or heights/wides?
Maybe you've already touched on this and I missed it.
Thanks

I'm going to do the wiring for back surrounds (in addition to side surrounds) to make it 7.1 before I do the ceiling insulation. I figure I should get that out of the way as it will be a lot more difficult and messier to do so after the insulation is up there. I need to decide where I want them mounted as well, which I need to do soon. I actually have a set of Klipsch RS35's I was going to use to test it out also. cool.gif

Possibly heights and/or wides are in the future also, but not anytime soon. I really should be taking advantage of the11 channels my 4311 has to offer, right? biggrin.gif
Reply
Reply
post #120 of 478
1/1/13 at 12:08pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gorilla83 View Post

I'm going to do the wiring for back surrounds (in addition to side surrounds) to make it 7.1 before I do the ceiling insulation. I figure I should get that out of the way as it will be a lot more difficult and messier to do so after the insulation is up there. I need to decide where I want them mounted as well, which I need to do soon. I actually have a set of Klipsch RS35's I was going to use to test it out also. cool.gif
Possibly heights and/or wides are in the future also, but not anytime soon. I really should be taking advantage of the11 channels my 4311 has to offer, right? biggrin.gif

Well, I had some spare time so the 7.1 setup with back surrounds is wired up and ready for calibration. biggrin.gif Looking forward to testing it out soon. cool.gif I have the Klipsch's in the back for now but they will be replaced with whatever I build for the side surrounds.
Reply
Reply
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: DIY Speakers and Subs

AVS Top Picks

AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › DIY Speakers and Subs › High output, multiple driver DIY main recommendations?