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Kindly tell me me which projector you would choose for this LARGE of a screen...

post #1 of 19
Thread Starter 
Hi guys, I have the Dalite model C Manual pull down in matte white fabric with a 1.0 gain. Pulled down all the way, it's a total of 9'x12' (144 inches wide) and can be made shorter in height for widescreen viewing depending on how far you pull it down (width remains the same unless I use masking tape). I love a huge picture and I'm debating on getting either the Panasonic PT-AE8000 or Epson PowerLite Home Cinema 5020UBe or whatever else you'd recomment. The throw distance I would use is about 17' but can be made longer if I need to. I will have no ambient light as I will watch at night only. My ceiling is a standard 8'.

Which do you think would provide the best picture for me at a seating distance of about 15' away? And is there another projector better suited for me as I may need higher lumens? I'd love to hear your input.

Thanks, Steve

Happy Holidays to all by the way smile.gif
post #2 of 19
Thread Starter 
Anyone care to chime in? Maybe DLP is a better option?
post #3 of 19
The Epson is brighter and has better 3D than the Panny, I know screens that large are expensive, but you could also look at replacing the screen with some gain. Zombie in the shootout thread uses 142" HP screen, but it cost a small fortune for a screen I'm sure (guessing around 3k, not sure).

The Sony hw50 would be the other one, the Epson will have at least a tad better 3D on your screen over the Sony.
post #4 of 19
For that large of a screen, you might want to take a look at the BenQ W7000.
post #5 of 19
Thread Starter 
Thanks for your response. The screen I have I paid $400 for it about 10 years ago. I kept it rolled up for many years and am ready to use it now. So it wasn't too expensive.

As for 2D, which is a better projector to use you think Mitsubishi, Benq, Epson, or the Panny?
post #6 of 19
Get the Epson, this year's Epson is brighter than the Benq w7000, especially in a decently color accurate mode. You can get 1400-1600 lumens on the Epson with only minor calibration effects.
Epson is also brighter in 3D than all the others.

You could consider the Sony hw50, it is bright but for 3D I would want it brighter on that screen size (hence add gain).

The Sony hw50 has the best image 2D IMO of the three based on Zombie's reviews from the other thread. The Epson would have slightly better 3D, but the Epson is way brighter than the Sony overall in some modes. The Epson beats up the Benq in movies with dark scenes, the Benq has a slightly smoother (more film-like) image in bright scenes (especially bright white), and the Sony has the most film-like 2D image, but the Epson should please you overall.
Edited by coderguy - 12/29/12 at 12:57pm
post #7 of 19
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mraub View Post

For that large of a screen, you might want to take a look at the BenQ W7000.
Has anyone ever had a shoot out of the BenQ W7000 , Epson and/or Panny PT-AE8000?
post #8 of 19
Yes, http://www.avsforum.com/t/1434826/sony-hw50-benq-w7000-epson-5020-jvc-rs55-jvc-rs-46-jvc-rs4810-jvc-rs56-mini-shootout-2012-2013...
The Epson is far superior over the Benq in any movie that has somewhat dark scenes.

It works like this if just going purely by image quality and not brightness: (but for you I'd take the Epson)

2D Movies:
JVC > Sony (although sony brighter now) > Epson (brightest) > Benq (low contrast for movies)

3D
Benq >= (close) Epson (brighter than Benq in 3D) > Sony (not as bright) > JVC (way too much ghosting, near useless 3d image)

2D Bright Scenes
They are all pretty close here, but the Benq should win by a slight margin, very slight.

Gaming:
Sony and Benq > Epson > JVC (due to lag and other factors)
Edited by coderguy - 12/29/12 at 1:03pm
post #9 of 19
Thread Starter 
Thanks! As for a higher gain screen, which would you choose in the size I seek? And would the screen upgrade make that much of a difference going from my Dalite 1.0 gain?
post #10 of 19
Well I am no screen expert, and you have to be careful because many screen MFR's mis-rate (exaggerate) the screen gain as 1.3 to 1.4 gain and it is really 1.0 to 1.1 gain just like yours.
The Da-Lite HIGH POWER screen is my choice depending on viewing factors, it has up to 2.4 gain (1.6 to 2.0 in most mounting spots), but there are some caveats. It should be fine for most viewing angles for up to 2-3 people per row, if you have big viewing parties it could be an issue.

Screen choice depends on room conditions.
I am not sure what screen is best in your budget for 1.2 to 1.5 gains, might want to call AVScience and ask them or maybe another poster will follow up. I just don't pay that much attention to screens because I mainly use the Da-Lite HP screen since it gives me GREAT huge gain and brightness for 3D and 2D.
post #11 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

Well I am no screen expert, and you have to be careful because many screen MFR's mis-rate (exaggerate) the screen gain as 1.3 to 1.4 gain and it is really 1.0 to 1.1 gain just like yours.
The Da-Lite HIGH POWER screen is my choice depending on viewing factors, it has up to 2.4 gain (1.6 to 2.0 in most mounting spots), but there are some caveats. It should be fine for most viewing angles for up to 2-3 people per row, if you have big viewing parties it could be an issue.
Screen choice depends on room conditions.
I am not sure what screen is best in your budget for 1.2 to 1.5 gains, might want to call AVScience and ask them or maybe another poster will follow up. I just don't pay that much attention to screens because I mainly use the Da-Lite HP screen since it gives me GREAT huge gain and brightness for 3D and 2D.

To add to the High Power suggestion, you need to be careful when using this fabric. This material is retro-reflective, as opposed to almost every other screen material which is angular reflective. Basically with the High Power Da-Lite material you need to place the projector close to head height to get the most benefit from the material. So if you were planning on ceiling mounting the projector I would avoid this material because you basically kill the useful properties of the screen when doing this.
post #12 of 19
While you lose some gain by mounting it considerably higher than your eyes, you still get to experience its less than steller other qualities too.The only thing that is important in a screen to most is gain. The brightness blinds less than critical viewers to many of its other qualities, brightness is everything. One wants to maximize the size of a screen as long as it still is nice and bright. Brightness and screen size is everything. just go with the HP, feel sorry that you csan only get the 2.4, the masses will be with you.
Edited by mark haflich - 12/29/12 at 11:45pm
post #13 of 19
you have to accept that some people love the HP screen, even 2 of the popular VW1000 owners have big, bright HP's. Thrang and Millerwill's large HP + VW1000 must be amazing to see in person.
post #14 of 19
I think Mark is highly recommending Studiotek 100 material these days. I have a HP screen and love it. I love it only because it is being used properly. Though, I can sometimes see the material when watching brighter scenes. That's my only compliant. I don't know if my screen is an anomaly. Maybe the glass beads were sprayed improperly. It seems like the beads are heavier on some parts of the screen as opposed to others and those spots seem to stick out. It's either that or those beads are sending light at a different angle and look "darker" because of it. Zombie do you ever see the material on white or very bright scenes?
post #15 of 19
Is your screen the 2.8 or the 2.4? I think my screen is relatively uniform, I don't usually see anomalies. I'll have to look closer at the Art of Flight since there are so many bright, white scenes.

I'm sure mark's setup looks amazing since that screen is so neutral + the VW1000 as a source doesn't hurt either... smile.gif
post #16 of 19
i frequently recommend the HP when the user can't mount the projector close to the recommended height. People as a general rule buy low lumen output machines of the types we are discusssing and then want a huge screen and still light it very brightly. The solution is to get a high gain screen and to sit where or close to the maximum gain point. this is nothing new. Its done every day.

To evaluate a screen one has to see what a unioty gain reference quality screen does for an image You can't just put a bunch of samples up and say ya, i like the brightest one best and that's what almost everybody says. If you don't do, you know too much trouble to get samples etc, just rely on the manner who choose HP. There are a few screens with higher gain but even a blind man can see their inadequacy for 2D, particularly any high gain silver screen or the silver star made by Vutec.

If you look at HP, its looks ok. nice and bright. But you really can't judge irs negatives until you see what a screen that has no negatives, that is used by the studeos to edit etc looks like lit up. Then you can view the deterioration in image quality wrought by the HP. Of course you can say the brighter one is better. just like you can say a cheap speaker playing louder is bettter than an expensive speaker playing much more quietly. For the masses, being brighter simply overrides anything else.

i never ever thought going from a ref quality screen with a gain of 1.3 to one with a gain of 1.0 would significantly improve the image quality. Of course its a tad not as bright but I have a small screen, 4.5 x 8 ft, and a projector with more calibrated lumens out than those under discussion here.

My good friend, Professor Miller, wanted a very large screen and he wanted a bright image. Two very valid priorities. HP was the perfect choice for him. I wanted the absolutely best PQ I could get, one that if possible make the screen vanish and increase the level of realism. Something one has to experience in order to have a reference to base evaluations of lesser screens on. Few people have done this. They don't have black pit theaters and have projectors incapable of adequately lighting their large screen were it not for such screenhaving a large gain.

It is really nice to have a screen where there is image out to the limits of your peripheral vision like Professor Miller's screen. My HT does not permit a wider screen than much over 8 ft because of stairs on either side of the screen. So i din't have to choose width over absolute picture quality.

the only question I would ask HP owners is does your screen normally didsappear, not rarely or on ocassion. But always. If you are watching a sporting event, do you think your are there watching of course from a nice weather proof box and not sitting with the riff raff, just kidding, in the stands. you can give that up and trade it for big. I respect that choice but don't kid yourself what you are giving up because of that.
post #17 of 19
Thread Starter 
Thanks a bunch for your repiies. Would I see a dramatic difference going from my Dalite 1.0 gain to the HP or Dalite High Power? I'll be watching mostly at night and, during the day, my room can be darkened to about 90% darkness I'd say.
post #18 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by babka View Post

Thanks a bunch for your repiies. Would I see a dramatic difference going from my Dalite 1.0 gain to the HP or Dalite High Power? I'll be watching mostly at night and, during the day, my room can be darkened to about 90% darkness I'd say.

I think it depends on how important 3D is. The 5020 is one of the brightnest 3D projectors mentioned but it wouldn't light up a 144" wide 1.0 screen in 3D for my preferences. Nearly 80% of the light is lost through the glasses so the more lumen output / screen gain, the better the 3D is my opinion. The caveat of the HP is that you need to mount the projector near head/eye level for maximum gain. If you can only go with a ceiling mount, the gain is reduced and offsets the primary benefit of the HP.

I have a 142" 16:9 (~124 wide) and the 3D looks great on this setup. Check the high power thread thread in the screens forum for other opinions as well.
post #19 of 19
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the response. I'll shoot over a PM.
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