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Another soundproofing and insulation thread - Page 2

post #31 of 56
If I can jump in with a question, I'm at the insulation stage of my basement HT. I will have an open door going upstairs from the HT. I was considering putting Safe & Sound Roxul in my ceiling joists before 1 layer of drywall, My question would be is it not worth it because of the open doorway? Will no attempt at soundproofing be worth it? I will not be decoupling my walls nor DD. I will have a false screen wall of about 12" to stud wall. DIY AT screen in front.
Thanks in advance.
post #32 of 56
Quote:
Originally Posted by RLthx View Post

If I can jump in with a question, I'm at the insulation stage of my basement HT. I will have an open door going upstairs from the HT. I was considering putting Safe & Sound Roxul in my ceiling joists before 1 layer of drywall, My question would be is it not worth it because of the open doorway? Will no attempt at soundproofing be worth it? I will not be decoupling my walls nor DD. I will have a false screen wall of about 12" to stud wall. DIY AT screen in front.
Thanks in advance.

 

I have about the same setup you do...and I did put safe and sound in the ceiling....does it do much - no, but it made me feel better.

 

You might just consider normal R19 or whatever will fit...I did mine primarily to quiet any noise from upstairs.

post #33 of 56
Having the open doorway will negate almost all of the soundproofing that you do. Thus, it isn't worth it to throw any significant amount of money at it. I'd still put some R19 fiberglass insulation in the ceiling because it is so cheap, but the extra money spent on Roxul over that won't yield better results.
post #34 of 56
Having the open doorway will negate almost all of the soundproofing that you do. Thus, it isn't worth it to throw any significant amount of money at it. I'd still put some R19 fiberglass insulation in the ceiling because it is so cheap, but the extra money spent on Roxul over that won't yield better results.

**Not sure why this was posted twice. The mobile site must not like me today.
Edited by aaustin - 1/15/13 at 10:51am
post #35 of 56
If fibers are not a concern to you, then there isn't a time or reason to NOT use the cheapest insulation available. Insulations that use terms "acoustic, sound, etc" do not help us and likely only serve to drain funds that should be used somewhere else.

There is nothing better than the cheapest fiberglass you can find. Lab data is a great thing. Don't be ruled by marketing.
post #36 of 56
I also used Roxul and the fibres bothered me much more than standard fibreglass. I did two layers in the ceiling joists and it helped slightly IMO. You can still hear footsteps clear as day.
post #37 of 56
I put Roxul in mine, and I don't hear the footsteps above. The joists which I have are engineered webbing, so I'm not sure if the sound is diffused more with that type of joists or not. Only thing people upstairs hear is the bass.
post #38 of 56
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lepus View Post

I put Roxul in mine, and I don't hear the footsteps above. The joists which I have are engineered webbing, so I'm not sure if the sound is diffused more with that type of joists or not. Only thing people upstairs hear is the bass.

Do You have carpet above? Mine is resilient flooring with standard wood-i joists.
post #39 of 56
Thanks for the help from all who responded, my build will be similar to " The Pocoloco Theater" that was posted on AVS. Saving money to spend else where (amplifier) gets my vote. When I watch a movie the whole family will have to enjoy it with me no matter where in the house they are. biggrin.gif
post #40 of 56
Its gonna sound so good, why *wouldn't* everyone else want to hear it! biggrin.gif
post #41 of 56
Thread Starter 
lots of great responses. I almost bought mineral fiber insulation as the local home theater store got me convinced (btw, they're the local reseller wink.gif ).
Reading the above threads about roxul not being effective and Ted's comment on insulation being the less significant matter in soundproofing, I'm going with R-19.

But like some others, I do have a door and a few duct pipes, vents going over the ceiling. I read about duct muffler and some other products. what are you recommendations on that front?
Once I address the duct issue, I plan to use resilient channel and two 1/2" drywall and spend the extra I was on some good speakers.
post #42 of 56
I apologize spider9 I don't want to hijack your thread but if Ted could clear one last question, If i used whisper clips and DD + GG on my ceiling would it be worth it considering the open doorway and non decoupled side walls?
I get the best way is to do all of soundproofing methods for best results and I promise on HT.2 I will. Also I have only 7'6" to joists, height is a concern, how much vertical height would I lose with the aforementioned set up? Again apologies spider9.
Thanks in advance
post #43 of 56
Spider, the duct muffler would be used for vents actually service the room. Send me a PM with your email if you'd like some SIMs on that. I would not suggest 1/2" drywall (lower mass) nor resilient channel.

RLthx, the open back wall is a liability and I would suggest you only consider doing the ceiling, and skip the rest. The ceiling will drop some of the sound, but you really can't take it to the next level so stop spending at that point.
post #44 of 56
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ted White View Post

Spider, the duct muffler would be used for vents actually service the room. Send me a PM with your email if you'd like some SIMs on that. I would not suggest 1/2" drywall (lower mass) nor resilient channel.

RLthx, the open back wall is a liability and I would suggest you only consider doing the ceiling, and skip the rest. The ceiling will drop some of the sound, but you really can't take it to the next level so stop spending at that point.

Thanks Ted
thx
post #45 of 56
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kamikaze13 View Post

Do You have carpet above? Mine is resilient flooring with standard wood-i joists.
No carpet above it's just hardwood or vinyl.
post #46 of 56
Quote:
Originally Posted by aaustin View Post

moneyisflying,

Let me start by saying that I am not trying to chew you out, but merely ensure that everyone is as informed as they can be. I enjoy discussions like this as I think everyone benefits from them.
Denisty is equal to mass divided by volume. A 1/2" sheet of soundboard and a 1/2" sheet of drywall have the same volume, thus the only factor that affects their densities in relation to each other is their mass. Drywall is heavier, and is thus more dense.

I tried to find an STC number for one layer of soundboard to compare it directly with one layer of drywall, but all the documentation relates to soundboard covered with a layer of drywall.

Addressing why they continue to sell it, soundboard is an older product that was made popular before the physics of soundproofing was better understood and before new technologies were made available that simply perform better for the money. I'd guess that they still sell it simply because of the name. Many people would see the word soundboard and immediately think that it is the best product.

Unfortunately we can't objectively judge how well a construction method works just by how it performs in one situation in someone's home. There's just too many other variables involved. The only way to compare things accurately is using certified lab data. Fortunately, we can do just that as tests have been done.

Lets look at two different wall structures and the isolation we get from each one. For simplicity sake, we'll say that each one is 4'x8', framed with 2x4 studs 24" on center, and contains R13 fiberglass insulation. Neither features any decoupling (though it should be mentioned that this is highly recommended as it only requires some extra 2x4's to frame a double wall). We'll also look at the costs of each wall, as that pertains to this thread.

Wall 1:

2 layers of 5/8" drywall - $18
2 tubes of Green Glue - $20

Total: $38

Wall 2:

1 layer of 1/2" soundboard - $10 (Though I've never seen it less than $20 I will give you the benefit of the doubt)
32 square feet of carpet (assume $2 a square foot) - $64

Total: $74

As we can see, wall 1 is significantly cheaper than wall 2.

Now lets look at some test data obtained at Orfield Laboratory, an NVLAP accredited lab. It must be noted that the walls tested do not directly match the ones that I have described as both sides of the wall were treated instead of just one. Also, the soundboard wall is covered with a layer of 5/8" drywall instead of carpet as I could not find any data on soundboard covered with carpet. However, the heavier weight of the drywall over the carpet would only improve the isolation numbers (there may be a very specific frequency where the carpet is actually better than the drywall in this case since whether you use drywall or carpet will affect the resonant frequency of the wall. This is looking really far into it though.) So while these numbers aren't a perfect representation of these two walls, it can give us a very good idea of how they compare to each other from an isolation standpoint.

http://www.greengluecompany.com/sites/default/files/Green_Glue_Vs_Soundboard.pdf

If you look at the graph on the first page you'll see the transmission loss vs. frequency for each wall. A higher number means more isolation.

So we can see that wall 1 performs significantly better than wall 2 for almost half the cost. Even if you found a great deal on carpet and got it for $1 a square foot, the double drywall and green glue wall is still cheaper. The performance you get for your money just isn't there with soundboard and carpet.

I'm all for not doing stuff by the book. That's how we learn and come up with new ideas. In this case, however, the evidence just doesn't hold up to the physics that we know and the tests that have been done.

Once again, I'm happy that you are enjoying your room. It looks like you have a great space to watch movies in and I know that it will continue to serve you well for a long time. smile.gif

Not trying to offend anyone, but I would like to add my two cents. Money has a setup that lends itself towards sound absorption, and by effect that can contribute to sound proofing. When you are talking about the different densities, and referring that more density is better for sound proofing, that isn't exactly the whole picture. What makes soundproofing effective is isolation and dissipation. When the sound radiates from your speakers, it is generally traveling at 1100 ft/second, when it hits the wall, it actually speeds up. I don't have the exact measurement of how much faster it goes in drywall, but I look at it like a solid. The numbers I remember from the classroom are about 4800 ft/ sec in water and over 16000 ft/sec in steel. This is where density comes in. The faster you can accelerate sound, not only does it consume more energy, but it also doesn't want to slow back down. In fact, making it change speed more frequently, actually consumes more energy than almost anything else. The best example I have of this is when a submarine uses a sound wave to find another submarine. As the sound propagates through the water, say its traveling at 4800 ft/sec, it hits the other sub, but it doesn't reflect off the sub like most people think, it hits the hull made of metal and speeds up as it goes through the hull, then it hits the inside of the sub which is all air, and that is like running full speed into a wall, it can't slow down fast enough, most of the sound is reflected off the air directly back, and some is reflected at 45 degrees back towards the direction it came, there are many other angles of reflection, but those angles have generally consumed so much energy that they dissipate quickly. This is why green goo is so effective, silicone would work as well, but regardless of which is used, it changes the speed as the sound hits it, ( slowing it down), then the sound changes speed again as it encounters the next piece of drywall, ( speeding up). In order for it to propagate to the other side of the wall, it has to change speed yet again, only this time it's just like my example, and most of the sound can't slow down, so it will be reflected back towards the source, only to endure the same transitions. Odds are by the time it gets back to the original piece of drywall, it won't have enough energy to transition to air. This is also why isolation is so important, sound doesn't lose a lot of energy when it hits the solid, be it a wall, I beam, framing, or whatever, it will ride the path as long as it can, so walls attached to ceilings tend to transfer sound in both directions.

In Money's scenario, the carpet not only absorbs a lot of the smaller amplitude dissipations, but it also acts as an item that changes the speed. Further more, this item, (carpet), is kinda performing isolation as its not attached as ridgedley to the wall as the drywall is. An over simplified way to think of this, would be to listen to sound in a room with hardwood floors and then with carpet, the carpet most definitely will not have as many echoes, and the sound will not propagate as far.

Oh, and Money, as I said earlier, your surround sound prob sounds awesome, it doesn't mean that music won't sound good, but your going to have a difficult time getting it to sound like a symphony hall...but why would you want it to, in that room your only concern should be Theater!
post #47 of 56
I'm not going to try and explain constrained-layer damping for noise control, as there are much more knowledgeable people than me who can do it better. I will say, however, that if you say silicone is an effective damping agent then you don't know much about it.

Please see this recent thread (specifically posts 3, 5, 7 and 16) which included some discussion on the matter from some very knowledgeable people, including links to lab test results and scholarly articles.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1452141/sound-deadening-my-media-room-a-little-diy#post_22859630

Aside from that, I think I more than made my point regarding not only the effective sound isolation but also cost effectiveness of some building methods over others.
Edited by aaustin - 1/31/13 at 9:36pm
post #48 of 56
Quote:
Originally Posted by aaustin View Post

I'm not going to try and explain constrained-layer damping for noise control, as there are much more knowledgeable people than me who can do it better. I will say, however, that if you say silicone is an effective damping agent then you don't know much about it.

Please see this recent thread (specifically posts 3, 5, 7 and 16) which included some discussion on the matter from some very knowledgeable people, including links to lab test results and scholarly articles.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1452141/sound-deadening-my-media-room-a-little-diy#post_22859630

Aside from that, I think I more than made my point regarding not only the effective sound isolation but also cost effectiveness of some building methods over others.

I don't know much about silicon, but by its physical properties if you put a layer of it between two pieces of drywall, you can't tell me that it won't provide any dampening. Is it as effective as green goo? i seriously doubt it. I am by no means a scientist, but I did study sound propagation and isolation for the better part of nine years, plus I stayed at a holiday inn last night.

All I was trying to say was that money's setup was valid and more to the point, it would work well for surround. From spiders original post, it sounded like he was trying to eliminate some noise above him that was transmitting as impact noise from a hardwood floor. The post seemed to spiral from there to soundproofing his home theater room. I might be completely off base with that assessment, but if I am not, then sound leaking through vents and stairs wouldn't negate all the other effort on soundproofing.

I had the exact same issue, it was so bad that when my wife wore shoes and walked around in the kitchen, it sound like horseshoes on sidewalks. Most experts will tell you that it's next to impossible to eliminate impact noise without going overboard and spending lotso $$$. I may not have eliminated it, but I got it down to where I can mask it with my surround. I put R19 in between the joists loosely, then put MLV across the joists, followed by two layers of 1/2 in drywall. ( because I didn't want to work with 5/8ths over my head). The result is pretty impressive, but is by no means sound proof. It does cut down on most of the noise I transmit, as now the sub is the only thing being heard with any predominant regularity. The rest of the setup is all about dampening. I basically double walled the room and put sound batting between the walls. I also am putting acoustic tiles on the ceiling and the door. This could be called soundproofing, but I don't really apply it to what I am trying to accomplish, which is to eliminate reflections and drop the sound a few db outside of the room. The very last step will be to put up some sound treatments at 45 and 90 degree increments. Oh, instead of carpet on the walls, I went with crushed red velvet.
post #49 of 56
Quote:
soundboard is an older product that was made popular before the physics of soundproofing
...just for the record. What is called "soundboard" today got its start as a replacement for drywall when gypsum supplies were 'constrained' do to the war effort.
Quote:
I don't know much about silicon, but by its physical properties if you put a layer of it between two pieces of drywall, you can't tell me that it won't provide any dampening. Is it as effective as green goo? i seriously doubt it.
Simply not true; but, I'm not going on the soap box again to sort this widely held misconception. Purple, I don't know what you were studying for nine years but you have considerable misunderstanding about sound isolation. What primary principle was at work with your MLV+two layers 1/2" drywall?
post #50 of 56
As always Dennis, thank you very much for your valuable input.
post #51 of 56
Just some trivia I thought interesting.
post #52 of 56
just a nobody with too much time on their hands...........always skeptical about the double drywall green glue application.
Viewed it as a margin builder, voodoo,.........green marker on the edge of your CD type of stuff......any caulk would do...........
After being detached from the residential AV industry for a time and following many a thread on these precious pages, I began a basement remodel.......
I made the call to Ted White.
The application of two layers of 1/2" drywall, (60% or so was scavenged.......beggars can't be choosers) separated by GG, between the 2x10" joists, 9" of fiberglass insulation, and another two layers of 5/8" drywall with the minimum application levels of GG has yielded results that are appreciated by anyone that had been in our basement before. Only the heaviest of jumping, or impact is noticeable downstairs. Only heavy gun/cannon fire in a soundtrack is noticeable in the area above. Paradigm Servo 15 + ADS m12 subs...........no Orbit Shifter, but no HTIB either.
Is this the optimum system?
Not likely.
Can I measure it?
Not today, with the tools at hand.
Can anybody with two average ears appreciate the difference?
Most certainly.
Edited by weaselfest - 2/1/13 at 6:15pm
post #53 of 56
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dennis Erskine View Post

...just for the record. What is called "soundboard" today got its start as a replacement for drywall when gypsum supplies were 'constrained' do to the war effort.
Simply not true; but, I'm not going on the soap box again to sort this widely held misconception. Purple, I don't know what you were studying for nine years but you have considerable misunderstanding about sound isolation. What primary principle was at work with your MLV+two layers 1/2" drywall?

I was a sonar technician on submarines. My sole purpose for breathing was detecting and tracking frequencies, determining aspect speed, distance, and who it was. Secondary to that was sound silencing, which mostly came down to sound insulation, dampening, and preventing sound shorts. I could take a distinct freq and once it's base was determined, give back targets course, speed and range. To be able to do that, you have to understand how sound propagates and all the variables impacting it, including things like salinity and depth. All of which is completely useless in this forum, cept to say I might understand a couple of basic principles about sound, but probably no where near the Wikipedia experts on soundproofing.

I have read as many articles recommending silicon between your framing and drywall as I have where they say it has no effect. I personally don't recommend it, I would recommend GG, if you can do it, go for it...it's not going to be detrimental and its fairly inexpensive. However, what I was referring to was the change in mediums, and the difference in viscosity and mass as the sound wave goes through the wall. Any time sound has to speed up and slow down it causes dispersion and attenuation. If you take two layers of drywall and compare the db on the other side against the same two layers of drywall having a layer of silicon between them, there is no way you can say they will be the same. Is it noticeable? I honestly don't know. But just looking at it, I can imagine there could be some benefits, possibly even reducing the transfer of the vibrations from the first layer of drywall to the second. I could also argue against that theory as each screw or nail into the framing is providing an immediate sound short between the layers. My original point before this post was thrown down the never ending rabbit hole of silicone vs sound propagation, was that different mediums have a large affect on attenuation, this was in defense of putting carpet on the walls, which I believe is a great solution for a home theater. I see lots of elitist who want to create a soundproof room that would rival a recording studio at Mercury records. If you can achieve a 3db loss, that is half of what it was, and it generally doesn't require you to have a floating floor and walls with a hung ceiling to achieve that. All I'm saying.
post #54 of 56
Carpet on the walls can over absorb the high frequencies ("suck the life out of your room") and have virtually zero impact on mid to low frequencies. I would suggest, for sound isolation purposes, carpet would be a more expensive and less effective method among those available.

A 3dB loss in the overall scheme of things is nothing. If one looks at 75dB as "reference" or -20dBFS (or 85dB), 3dB down is 72dB (or 82dB). Noting, of course, that "reference" is not typical volume at which we listen to speech. There are two targets depending upon your objective.

If the objective is to reduce the sound 'leaving' the room, that target is +3dB over ambient. In other words, if ambient in an adjacent space is 33dBA, you do not want sound playback in the acoustic venue to raise that noise floor about 36dBA (some consider 39dBA as OK). To achieve that level of sound reduction, it takes considerable effort (and clear has a budgetary impact). Taking 110dB down to 36dB is a challenge.

The primary objective of sound isolation in playback spaces is to reduce the intrusion of outside sounds into the room. Here the target is NC20 (although using an NR20 curve is more helpful). In this case, if the ambient noise floor in the room is 33dBA, you want to reduce that to 20dBA...(mixing values here for simplicity..more, accurately if the nose floor measures NC33, you need to reduce it to NC20). That is a far less difficult task and less expensive task. Taking 33dB down to 20dB is not trivial but no where close to the "don't wake the baby" problem.
Edited by Dennis Erskine - 2/3/13 at 5:36am
post #55 of 56
Wow. Any article that you read where Silicone was valuable would was simply propagating urban legend. Someone's misplaced armchair logic. You can certainly find just as many scholarly articles espousing the value of egg cartons for soundproofing. Let's keep in mind, this IS the internet, after all. Where anyone with any assertion can tout it as fact.

How about we get up off out comfy armchairs and look at some hard lab data. Silicone has been around for a long time. If it was even a fraction as useful as some old hippie blogs would purport, wouldn't you expect some industrious company would test it and sell it for this newfound purpose? No tests? Really? Was this some giant omission or maybe Silicone really does nothing.

The wheel is round and it works as-is.
post #56 of 56
I am looking to soundproof my ceiling in my basement. I have an exposed channeled ceiling; my plan is to put up 5/8 drywall into each channel then put up another layer of 5/8 drywall with green glue inbetween the rock. However after looking at the price of the Green Glue I realized that it would be cheaper just put up three layers of drywall, my question is would 3 layers of drywall without any Green Glue be better in terms of a sound barrier or does the Green Glue perform some type of acoustical barrier that is better than a 5/8 of drywall?
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