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A Soundproofing Dilemma - Page 2

post #31 of 53
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ack_bk View Post

My only advice here (which you may already be doing) is to get at least 3-4 bids from respectable contractors. While I did a lot of work myself, I did have to hire out some of the labor due to local building codes and to save time and I was amazed at how far apart some of the quotes were for the same job. Plumbing, for example. One company wanted three times what the other two were charging for the same job, and drywall contractors were even worse. I leveraged Angies List since I was new to the area and had a great experience. It saved me at least $10K vs just going with the fist quote and I never had any issues with any of the work performed.

Yes, I met with several contractors before finding the one I settled on. Still trying to find a decent plumber, unfortunately.
post #32 of 53
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tedd View Post

Another thought is to subdivide the space and build a small dedicated space. Treat the beam in the theater space with RSIC clips, plywood/Green Glue/double drywall/Green Glue, and use a DIY acoustically transparent screen beneath the beam
The 48 square feet behind the columns, lets you hide the speakers and sub/s, could let you use three identical front speakers, and provide a home for the av rack and maybe some bass absorbers.

All very innovative ideas, but they're just not what I envision for the space.
post #33 of 53
Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh Z View Post

Not if that's going to be my soundproofed wall.

Good point. Do you want access from inside the theater? You've got a great space to move all of the noise and heat outside the theater.
post #34 of 53
I don't see why you couldn't laminate a couple of beams/boards whatever to either side of the beam half way down and then cut out the bottom half of the existing beam. A laminated 6 by 6 should be every bit as strong as a single 2 by 12 for example
post #35 of 53
If you stick a gasketted and beefed up door back there, and the side walls are built to the room's walls, it will.

I guess I just kind of automatically assumed you would......
post #36 of 53
Quote:
Originally Posted by edfowler View Post

I don't see why you couldn't laminate a couple of beams/boards whatever to either side of the beam half way down and then cut out the bottom half of the existing beam. A laminated 6 by 6 should be every bit as strong as a single 2 by 12 for example

Careful with this. From a deflection standpoint, I'm not sure a 6x6 would be equivalent to a 2x12. It's been a long time since I've had a statics class (longer than I'd like to admit sometimes), but I think it's a cubic function based on the height dimension. So the 2x12 would resist deflection more than a 6x6. I don't remember for sure, but that's why I'd recommended having someone analyze it.

EDIT: Here's the formula (I think) I = bh^3 / 12 where b is the beam width and h is the height. Big number mean smaller deflection. Again, this might be taken completely out of context and completely wrong for this application.
Edited by J_P_A - 1/3/13 at 2:35pm
post #37 of 53
He has a wall 5' away that can become load bearing. If that's done properly there's no reason the beam can't be modified, unless the floor joists happen to be jointed on top of the beam or a 16' span is not allowed (which it should be).
post #38 of 53
No question that it can be done! I completely agree. I just wanted to point out that there is a little more to it than meets the eye.
post #39 of 53
Ya always is, especially with reno's. And this is all speculating that this is a typical constructed house.
post #40 of 53
Thread Starter 
Did I mention that my budget is already strained just putting up the drywall and soundproofing? smile.gif
post #41 of 53
It's a lot easier and cheaper to get it fixed now, than it will be to fix it in two or three years once the drywall and soundproofing are up. Obviously you are aware that just laminating the beam with a single layer of drywall will compromise your soundproofing efforts as well. How much so, I have no idea.

If you don't have the budget to address the beam, and you've decided you are okay with that, then no worries. In your shoes, I would try to get a feeling for how much sound isolation I could expect in the configuration you've settled on. That may or may not warrant soundproofing the rest of the room. Again, I have no idea.
post #42 of 53
Thread Starter 
I'll be talking to my contractor again today, but right now my thought is to apply clips, drywall, glue, etc. to the sides of the beam and the majority of the underside, except for a small carve-out (in the soundproofing, not the beam) on the underside between the column and the entrance, where the clips and so forth will only be on the sides. It's a compromise, but hopefully not too much of one.
post #43 of 53
Obviously I've missed a lot of dialog in tis thread. My apologies. You won't have success attempting to directly damp a beam. The dissimilarity with the stiffness of the beam and the drywall is way to large. Damping is optimized when the stiffness of the two layers is the same.

Applying clip & channel to the beam (as you've outlined) is the way to go. You can avoid clip & channel on the underside of the beam by attaching a horizontal piece of cement board to the two vertical sides which are help off the beam by the clips and channel.

Sounds like that's what the group came up with
post #44 of 53
What about treating the side area as an open concept office space?

And I threw in a room flip. No idea what you'll do with the extra space, but it gets the av rack out of the side view and
maybe the eight feet depth could be given over to darker colors while the rest of the room gets a lighter treatment.

Josh Z.jpg 93k .jpg file
post #45 of 53
Tedd is on FIRE!

I should have hired Tedd before we built our house smile.gif
post #46 of 53
Lots of ideas but no great solution.

I think the lack of headroom in the entry area is going to burn you Josh, sooner or later, either in wasting soundproofing efforts, or in resale value,
or even in meeting building code. Maybe the best play is deal with the entry area now, and push back finishing the room until finances recover??

Any idea where the third support post buried in that eight foot section of wal is, Josh? (Or maybe you get lucky and that it is a load bearing wall?)

And where is the HVAC sheet metal and plumbing? And what is the floor joist spacing and size?
post #47 of 53
Thread Starter 
You guys will be relieved to know that I'm currently in disucssions with my contractor about possible solutions for the beam. The money is practically flying out of my wallet by the second! smile.gif
post #48 of 53
good move. I agree with others here to address the beam first and fit the rest in when you can.
post #49 of 53
Did you hear that? That was a collective sigh of relief from the community smile.gif keep us updated on the progress. I'm interested to know what options you guys come up with. At the very least, you can say you explored all the options.
post #50 of 53
Thread Starter 
If anyone is interested, Part 3 of my blog series on this project is posted:

http://www.highdefdigest.com/blog/tag/cinema-zyberdiso/
post #51 of 53
Thread Starter 
To what I'm sure will be the relief of many, that awful beam has been addressed. We've moved a chunk of it and changed the entrance to the room. I can now walk in without ducking.

Before:



After:



Next issue: The drywall has gone up and the place is an echo chamber. Can someone point me in the direction of info about acoustic treatments that won't break whatever pitiful amount is left of my budget? Thanks.
post #52 of 53
Wow nice.

DIY would definitely be the cheapest and it's really not too bad.

If you're up for it check out this link on DIY acoustical panels.

http://acousticsfreq.com/blog/?p=62
post #53 of 53
Maybe do a search for Dennis' posts on this. He's the man.
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