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AE TD12x SEOS12 Build!!!! - Page 5

post #121 of 377
Quote:
Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post

Little OT, but brought this little bundle home yesterday too so I am certainly glad I got work done when I did...She will dominate time for the next several weeks smile.gif


Pretty rare to see an Airedale in the city anymore. smile.gif I love 'em, though. Grats!
post #122 of 377
Congrats! The cabinets look a lot like my La Scalas and I really liked that finish. They're looking really good ...

Scott
post #123 of 377
Thread Starter 
Thanks skeeter!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by popalock View Post

Outstanding buddy! I'm really interested in seeing how these turn out after you apply the poly! Be sure to get some close-ups of the edges if you don't mind!

Looking great for sure man.
Sweet! Congrats!

Yeah, a few weeks (at least) of itensive potty training may be in order...lol

She is doing GREAT so far so I am hoping the rest will be not too bad.

Quote:
Originally Posted by nube View Post

Pretty rare to see an Airedale in the city anymore. smile.gif I love 'em, though. Grats!

That is great you knew the breed! Most around here don't even know about them. This is my families 4th smile.gif

I have placed my XO's in the box and I was wondering if this is a bad idea placing them there with the woofer magnets being within a couple of inches from the components. Would it affect the XO's in any way? Next option is screwing them onto the back of the box, but accessing them where this picture shows is the best place if it is safe smile.gif

post #124 of 377
I just did a quick check of both an air core and solid core inductor when placed close to a cast frame driver. My only big cast frame driver with a ferrite magnet is the B&C 15PS76 so I used that. The inductors I used are not that exact same as I just tried it with ones I had handy.

I started with a 1.2mH iron core placed on the floor, it measured 1.203mH. I placed the front of the driver about 2" right in front of the coil so the basket was above it. At this point it was about 1" away from the driver's cast frame the magnet was about 3" above and a little behind the coil. It measured 1.191mH or a difference of 0.012mH. I moved the driver forward so the magnet was directly above the coil and measured 1.201mH. I then tilted the driver back so the magnet was about 1" away and measured 1.212mH. A 1% change will go completely unnoticed and that was measured at a distance much closer then yours will be.

For the air core I used another 1.2mH I had and did everything the same. It measured 1.223 by itself and the largest change I got out of it was 0.002mH.

So beast I would say you are good to go. smile.gif
post #125 of 377
Thread Starter 
Killer. Thank you sir! I will have em mounted tomorrow and poly filled, still waitin in those darn bindin posts but I want that to be all that is left for me to do Tuesday. I know if I go ahead and put them down in the theater that it will never happen. Haha. I have also decided after getting these outside that some coats of poly is gonna really make the wood shine so gonna lay that down tomorrow as well. Should be well dried by the time the posts come so my work is definitely coming to an end here with these guys smile.gif
post #126 of 377
Very nice work B!!
post #127 of 377
Looking great beast! I'm sure you can barely wait to crank them up. smile.gif
post #128 of 377
Thread Starter 
Thanks guys! I have a confession to make however, I sometimes get ahead of myself. I get so caught up in the moment when building speakers that I start to think I am going to cut corners so I can hear them sooner and post here that I should have them done thinking these things, only to turn around and re-focus on getting them done properly. I say this because I was on the verge of taking them downstairs this weekend without mounting the XO's and putting them in for a listen but I thought better of it, stuck to my guns, and left them in the garage awaiting the binding posts that should arrive today. During the wait, I also laid 3 coats of poly on the wood which REALLY makes a difference! The wood really pops now!

Tonight, during puppy naps, I will be installing the binding posts and mounting the XO's and stuffing the cabs (if I have time to run to wally world). Yea, that's right, I didn't get hardly anything accomplished over the long weekend, just played with the little one, who is settling in quite well.
post #129 of 377
I can understand the pressure to have a listen...I cracked and had to! In my case the upgrade was so substantial I literally could not take it anymore and had put the pair in for a listen. They still sit there, all bare mdf and bondo...the plan is to finish my surrounds first and finish them all together. Anyway good job, they look superb.

My daughter wants a puppy, but the cat (that I would like to stuff and mount) would freak. tongue.gif
post #130 of 377
Quote:
Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post

Thanks guys! I have a confession to make however, I sometimes get ahead of myself. I get so caught up in the moment when building speakers that I start to think I am going to cut corners so I can hear them sooner and post here that I should have them done thinking these things, only to turn around and re-focus on getting them done properly. I say this because I was on the verge of taking them downstairs this weekend without mounting the XO's and putting them in for a listen but I thought better of it, stuck to my guns, and left them in the garage awaiting the binding posts that should arrive today. During the wait, I also laid 3 coats of poly on the wood which REALLY makes a difference! The wood really pops now!

Tonight, during puppy naps, I will be installing the binding posts and mounting the XO's and stuffing the cabs (if I have time to run to wally world). Yea, that's right, I didn't get hardly anything accomplished over the long weekend, just played with the little one, who is settling in quite well.

Those little beasts (pun intended) can be fun, right? biggrin.gif

Are you going to use normal polyfil? Any concern with it blowing out the port? I'm evaluating the same and thinking of using something like polyester batting to line the walls. Thoughts?
post #131 of 377
Thread Starter 
haha, don't even worry about hanging it! haha. I dislike cats for the most part. Yea they are really looking good now with the poly on! Wait till you see em!
post #132 of 377
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gorilla83 View Post

Those little beasts (pun intended) can be fun, right? biggrin.gif

Are you going to use normal polyfil? Any concern with it blowing out the port? I'm evaluating the same and thinking of using something like polyester batting to line the walls. Thoughts?

I don't think there will be any issue with it blowing out the port assuming you don't install it in very tiny increments so it separates a lot. To prevent this I will just take two bags each, and stuff each full on bag into the woofer cutout and then mold it once in place. I almost am considering using the roll of insulation I have laying around instead since I already have it but I don't know how that will affect the sound if it completely covers the port on the backside.
post #133 of 377
Quote:
Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post

I don't think there will be any issue with it blowing out the port assuming you don't install it in very tiny increments so it separates a lot. To prevent this I will just take two bags each, and stuff each full on bag into the woofer cutout and then mold it once in place. I almost am considering using the roll of insulation I have laying around instead since I already have it but I don't know how that will affect the sound if it completely covers the port on the backside.

I was also thinking of laying/stapling some burlap or other transparent fabric horizontally across the box where it could potentially escape out the port. That should keep it from coming out too I would think. Speaker cloth would probably work too if you've got it laying around.
post #134 of 377
You should be fine with the insulation as long as it doesn't interfere with the opening of the port. Another option is 1" bonded dacron here: http://meniscusaudio.com/bonded-dacron-p-185.html That's what I use and it's super easy to cut and install...should be plenty thick to tame back waves.
post #135 of 377
I don't care for fiberglass in a ported cab.

You don't need much for a ported anyways, so i'd use something less irritating.

Polyfill


Ultra touch denim

Or even mattress topper(eggcrate)
post #136 of 377
Thread Starter 
will that denim work just as effectively as the poly fill leaving free area in the box? I could use the foam spray adhesive I bet to get it to stick to the box sides..

On another note, the Got-dang binding posts didn't show up tonight so I guess I am on hold until tomorrow. #USPSslacking #getitrightorpaytheprice
post #137 of 377
Hey Bdub!

You dont need a lot in a ported box, so yes it will work fine.

All your trying to do is absorb suspension noise(if any) and attenuate the mid-upper junk from inside the cab. It doesnt take much of anything to get this done for a ported cab.

A sealed cab needs a lot more stuffing/absorption since your actually trying to lower the apparent Q.

Think about room treatments, the size and thickness of the cabinet "stuffing" aint gonna do squat for anything too low. All you need to do is soak up that mid-high freq junk.

Bracing is the only defense/treatment against cab "resonances" you really dont stand a chance soaking them up if theyre there.

At least thats my understanding smile.gif
post #138 of 377
Quote:
Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post

I also laid 3 coats of poly on the wood which REALLY makes a difference! The wood really pops now! .

No you didn't... Pics! tongue.gif
post #139 of 377
Quote:
Originally Posted by NicksHitachi View Post

Hey Bdub!

You dont need a lot in a ported box, so yes it will work fine.

All your trying to do is absorb suspension noise(if any) and attenuate the mid-upper junk from inside the cab. It doesnt take much of anything to get this done for a ported cab.

A sealed cab needs a lot more stuffing/absorption since your actually trying to lower the apparent Q.

Think about room treatments, the size and thickness of the cabinet "stuffing" aint gonna do squat for anything too low. All you need to do is soak up that mid-high freq junk.

Bracing is the only defense/treatment against cab "resonances" you really dont stand a chance soaking them up if theyre there.

At least thats my understanding smile.gif

Hey Nick, don't mean to get all OT up in here...by lowering Q and thus improving mid-bass response, how would I know the final total Q for the driver within the system? Qts for the TD12S is 0.34, is there some form of measurement for calculating the standing waves to see the difference in Q before and after lining the cab?
post #140 of 377
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by pgwalsh View Post

No you didn't... Pics! tongue.gif

Haha, bring it!!!
A little industrial strength velcro to secure the XO's Im telling you, I could mount my ceiling fan with this stuff

I Nice sheen on that poly!!!!

Corner shot for Austin...I don't round-over on mains, I like the nice crisp look smile.gif

The left cab you can really see the shine on them, the poly really made the BB shine for sure though!!!

Quiet Kote on the inside of the cab, just in case!!!

Quote:
Bracing is the only defense/treatment against cab "resonances" you really dont stand a chance soaking them up if theyre there

Good thing for a little additional quiet-kote smile.gif Dont know if it would help out at all, but I did it anyways smile.gif
post #141 of 377
Great pics. Those speakers look sexy! Nice work
post #142 of 377
Thread Starter 
Moar!!!!

Horns are in!

Couple more edge shots. You can see the good break between the front baffle and the stain. It looks like there is some un-stained section but in real life, you can't even see it at all.



wired up and ready for the XO's/darned binding posts.PE need to hurry up!!!!
post #143 of 377
Suh-Weet!
post #144 of 377
Almost there! smile.gif
post #145 of 377
Niiiice!
post #146 of 377
Quote:
Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post

So Capacitors don't affect the XO in the same fashion though? I didn't think that would make any difference assuming they had the same values...

Substituting caps isn't a problem as long as the value/tolerance is the same (closer tolerance is ok) and the ESR (equivalent series resistance) is the same or very close. With film caps ESR matching usually isn't a problem but if you replace an electrolytic cap with a film type there can be a substantial difference.

Changing inductors can be a problem for the reasons John already noted. If the DCR difference is small and also a small percentage of the driver's impedance then the series inductor(s) on a woofer should be fine. A change in the DCR on a high pass filter (tweeter or mid) can affect the transfer function and may have a negative impact on the sound depending on the original design. If you reverse the tweeter phase to check the null you'll need to know where the original design axis was (center of the tweeter, midpoint of the drivers, etc.). I'm in the Raleigh area and would be happy to test your set for free if you need any help.
post #147 of 377
Thread Starter 
Thanks Rick! Dang, when I was down that way a few months ago I should have planned to drop by to visit! I had several stops to make while I was there but that would have been great! I am sure it won't be too long before I get down there again though. I am going to as soon as I get the speakers done, run sweeps with each, centered in the room and a good ways off the back wall to see how they measure. If I am seeing anything funky from switching the caps or it doesn't sound right, I will certainly let you know. Thanks!
post #148 of 377
They look great!
post #149 of 377
Vedy vedy nice!
post #150 of 377
Man, looks awesome!

Thanks for those edge shots. So, the poly you used was just a standard clear high gloss, correct?

Sucks about your terminals. Guess that's what you get for ordering the most expensive terminals they sell...

rolleyes.gif
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