AE TD12x SEOS12 Build!!!! - Page 5

Pretty rare to see an Airedale in the city anymore. I love 'em, though. Grats!

Congrats! The cabinets look a lot like my La Scalas and I really liked that finish. They're looking really good ...

Scott

I just did a quick check of both an air core and solid core inductor when placed close to a cast frame driver. My only big cast frame driver with a ferrite magnet is the B&C 15PS76 so I used that. The inductors I used are not that exact same as I just tried it with ones I had handy.

I started with a 1.2mH iron core placed on the floor, it measured 1.203mH. I placed the front of the driver about 2" right in front of the coil so the basket was above it. At this point it was about 1" away from the driver's cast frame the magnet was about 3" above and a little behind the coil. It measured 1.191mH or a difference of 0.012mH. I moved the driver forward so the magnet was directly above the coil and measured 1.201mH. I then tilted the driver back so the magnet was about 1" away and measured 1.212mH. A 1% change will go completely unnoticed and that was measured at a distance much closer then yours will be.

For the air core I used another 1.2mH I had and did everything the same. It measured 1.223 by itself and the largest change I got out of it was 0.002mH.

So beast I would say you are good to go.

Very nice work B!!

Looking great beast! I'm sure you can barely wait to crank them up.

I can understand the pressure to have a listen...I cracked and had to! In my case the upgrade was so substantial I literally could not take it anymore and had put the pair in for a listen. They still sit there, all bare mdf and bondo...the plan is to finish my surrounds first and finish them all together. Anyway good job, they look superb.

My daughter wants a puppy, but the cat (that I would like to stuff and mount) would freak.

Those little beasts (pun intended) can be fun, right?

Are you going to use normal polyfil? Any concern with it blowing out the port? I'm evaluating the same and thinking of using something like polyester batting to line the walls. Thoughts?

I was also thinking of laying/stapling some burlap or other transparent fabric horizontally across the box where it could potentially escape out the port. That should keep it from coming out too I would think. Speaker cloth would probably work too if you've got it laying around.

You should be fine with the insulation as long as it doesn't interfere with the opening of the port. Another option is 1" bonded dacron here: http://meniscusaudio.com/bonded-dacron-p-185.html That's what I use and it's super easy to cut and install...should be plenty thick to tame back waves.

I don't care for fiberglass in a ported cab.

You don't need much for a ported anyways, so i'd use something less irritating.

Polyfill


Ultra touch denim

Or even mattress topper(eggcrate)

Hey Bdub!

You dont need a lot in a ported box, so yes it will work fine.

All your trying to do is absorb suspension noise(if any) and attenuate the mid-upper junk from inside the cab. It doesnt take much of anything to get this done for a ported cab.

A sealed cab needs a lot more stuffing/absorption since your actually trying to lower the apparent Q.

Think about room treatments, the size and thickness of the cabinet "stuffing" aint gonna do squat for anything too low. All you need to do is soak up that mid-high freq junk.

Bracing is the only defense/treatment against cab "resonances" you really dont stand a chance soaking them up if theyre there.

At least thats my understanding

No you didn't... Pics!

Hey Nick, don't mean to get all OT up in here...by lowering Q and thus improving mid-bass response, how would I know the final total Q for the driver within the system? Qts for the TD12S is 0.34, is there some form of measurement for calculating the standing waves to see the difference in Q before and after lining the cab?

Great pics. Those speakers look sexy! Nice work

Suh-Weet!

Almost there!

Niiiice!

Substituting caps isn't a problem as long as the value/tolerance is the same (closer tolerance is ok) and the ESR (equivalent series resistance) is the same or very close. With film caps ESR matching usually isn't a problem but if you replace an electrolytic cap with a film type there can be a substantial difference.

Changing inductors can be a problem for the reasons John already noted. If the DCR difference is small and also a small percentage of the driver's impedance then the series inductor(s) on a woofer should be fine. A change in the DCR on a high pass filter (tweeter or mid) can affect the transfer function and may have a negative impact on the sound depending on the original design. If you reverse the tweeter phase to check the null you'll need to know where the original design axis was (center of the tweeter, midpoint of the drivers, etc.). I'm in the Raleigh area and would be happy to test your set for free if you need any help.

They look great!

Vedy vedy nice!

Man, looks awesome!

Thanks for those edge shots. So, the poly you used was just a standard clear high gloss, correct?

Sucks about your terminals. Guess that's what you get for ordering the most expensive terminals they sell...