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AE TD12x SEOS12 Build!!!! - Page 2

post #31 of 377
Make some dust son!

Those AE woofers are actually my ideal SEOS alignment but until they are on the shelf at AE I aint fuggin with the B.S. to get em.

Or maybe I'll just wait for you to get tired of em and drive up to "take em off your hands".......... :P
post #32 of 377
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by NicksHitachi View Post

Make some dust son!
Those AE woofers are actually my ideal SEOS alignment but until they are on the shelf at AE I aint fuggin with the B.S. to get em.
Or maybe I'll just wait for you to get tired of em and drive up to "take em off your hands".......... :P

Haha, I am going through propane trying to heat my garage like crazy right now!!! It is a bit chilly at night lately. I have heard too much about the AE woofers to not do some type of build on them biggrin.gif
post #33 of 377
Quote:
Originally Posted by NicksHitachi View Post

Make some dust son!
Those AE woofers are actually my ideal SEOS alignment but until they are on the shelf at AE I aint fuggin with the B.S. to get em.

Same thought I had. I was pretty much sold on the TD15M until I realized I might never see them anytime soon. frown.gif

Beast - Get back to work!! biggrin.gif I'm planning on making some dust as soon as I get confirmation from Erich on the baffle sizes I proposed. BTW you're coming to the April speaker shootout GTG, right? biggrin.gif
post #34 of 377
Thread Starter 
Haha, I will be doing some work on them tonight I am hoping. I am strongly considering going to get a brad nailer for these guys, as I dont want to muck it all up with screws and I don't have enough clamps to just clamp alone.
post #35 of 377
Quote:
Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post

Haha, I will be doing some work on them tonight I am hoping. I am strongly considering going to get a brad nailer for these guys, as I dont want to muck it all up with screws and I don't have enough clamps to just clamp alone.

Have you got a Tractor Supply nearby? I got a bunch of clamps from them cheap (24" @ $9.99) and they worked for me just fine.

Oh, and you know you wanna get this for building the xo...http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=374-100 Do it! biggrin.gif
post #36 of 377
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by robotbunny View Post

Have you got a Tractor Supply nearby? I got a bunch of clamps from them cheap (24" @ $9.99) and they worked for me just fine.
Oh, and you know you wanna get this for building the xo...http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=374-100 Do it! biggrin.gif

Just ran to Lowes. They have a heck of a deal for a 2" brad nailer, compressor, hose, and about a dozen other goodies for $99. It is now mine. The electric versions don't take more than a 1inch brad and I want to bite in a little bit further than 1/4." This should be perfect, I got 1.5" and 1 1/4" brads to see which will work better, but dang, now i can maybe have all three of these together tonight! haha
post #37 of 377
Nice. That's a deal right there! Which nailer? I may take a lil' trip myself. smile.gif

Eagerly awaiting build pics!!!
post #38 of 377
Quote:
Originally Posted by Erich H View Post

I think he means just assembling them.

Not if he is talking about shipping speakers for measurements. Sounds like re-inventing the wheel, since the drivers have already been measured by Bill.
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post #39 of 377
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by robotbunny View Post

Nice. That's a deal right there! Which nailer? I may take a lil' trip myself. smile.gif
Eagerly awaiting build pics!!!

Campbell Housfeld, And since I have already tried it out, it is INCREDIBLE for $99. Unless you are a contractor, and plan on doing a lot of builds, it is PERFECT. The tank fills in less than 2 minutes from empty, lube the gun up (with the supplied oil) and start firing.Don't push down too hard or you will get depressions from the gun on your box. Fix this by adjusting the fastener penetration knob. Damn that sounds weird.

Quote:
Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 5 View Post

Not if he is talking about shipping speakers for measurements. Sounds like re-inventing the wheel, since the drivers have already been measured by Bill.

No Heck No!!! I could go active right now, just would love passive at first as the DCX is being used for sub duty. I am using Bill's XO in the first place smile.gif
post #40 of 377
Nice find, beast! If Santa hadn't brought me a finish/brad nailer set this year I'd be all over that.

I was thinking - it's probably a good thing me, you, and popalock don't all live near each other. There would be a strong influence / enablement going on.
post #41 of 377
Thread Starter 
That is already happening Im afraid. I don't know if I would be able to survive if I could walk down the block to one of yall's houses. I am too young to retire.
post #42 of 377
A brad nailer is invaluable when assembling boxes, i dont even use clamps unless it cant be pocket screwed or brad nailed which is not that often.

Makes assembly considerably faster, so you should have plenty of time for PICS!!!
post #43 of 377
Got these up and running yet?
post #44 of 377
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ehoeft View Post

Got these up and running yet?

Nope, but making progress, just very slowly so far this week. I should be able to post some pics probably tomorrow night. I did have one question for ya'll though. Since I have the brad nailer and my cuts are near perfect, how would you all feel about just brad nailing the wood together and then just applying PL in the box where the sides meet and just wiping it flat? Think that would seal perfectly or should I still apply it before I join each piece and let it squeeze out both sides when I nail them together? I was thinking doing it this way, and not using screws that I might have problems getting the pieces to squeeze together completely since I am not using screws to pull the sides together tight.

edit (sp)
post #45 of 377
You definitely want glue in the seams to bond the pieces together. brad nails have very little holding power and an open joint like that will often vibrate and buzz. it will be very hard to pull the pieces together with PL between them. Just use wood glue in the seams. you can always put a bead of PL around the inside when you are done.
post #46 of 377
Quote:
Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post

...lube the gun up (with the supplied oil) and start firing.Don't push down too hard or you will get depressions from the gun on your box. Fix this by adjusting the fastener penetration knob. Damn that sounds weird.

Dude, you're a perv...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gorilla83 View Post

Nice find, beast! If Santa hadn't brought me a finish/brad nailer set this year I'd be all over that.

I was thinking - it's probably a good thing me, you, and popalock don't all live near each other. There would be a strong influence / enablement going on.

Yeah, that would be game over...

Positive: Our ladies would have a stronger support group to cope with our addiction.
Negative: What we do now x10.

Anyone start on your crossover yet?
post #47 of 377
Thread Starter 
yep! Got a kind gent that should have the parts Friday, and said he might have them back to me by the middle of next week, which honestly should be about perfect timing smile.gif Guess I am off to Lowes during lunch to scoop some copious amounts of titebond III or would one suggest another option for regular wood glue. Jeez I am glad i have like 6 bottles of PL already. Looks like it will be saved for the D.O. boxes...
post #48 of 377
Titebond 3 has a longer open time, something like 10 minutes as opposed to 5 minutes for Titebond 2 or 1. If your gonna use your nail gun then Titebond 2 or even 1 would be good enough....... Just please don't detail how to prep the nail gun again........too much information.
post #49 of 377
Quote:
Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post

Campbell Housfeld, And since I have already tried it out, it is INCREDIBLE for $99. Unless you are a contractor, and plan on doing a lot of builds, it is PERFECT. The tank fills in less than 2 minutes from empty, lube the gun up (with the supplied oil) and start firing.Don't push down too hard or you will get depressions from the gun on your box. Fix this by adjusting the fastener penetration knob. Damn that sounds weird.
No Heck No!!! I could go active right now, just would love passive at first as the DCX is being used for sub duty. I am using Bill's XO in the first place smile.gif

I did not realize you were talking about having someone put ting the crossovers together for you. The schematic may look complicated, but really it is not to difficult to map it out on a board and put together. smile.gif
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post #50 of 377
Thread Starter 
Thanks, I will be getting some titebond 2 I guess then. I really was referring to what they actually call the parts on the nail gun too, I didn't come up with that.
post #51 of 377
Thread Starter 
Is PL even necessary if I use the titebond2 to run each crease once i have the panels nailed together?
post #52 of 377
Just simple basics of using screws to tighten two pannels: the pannel that you will put in the screw first should not (or almost) have friction so it means that you pre-drill the 1rst pannel to the outside size of the screw. In the second pannel you pre-drill the size a little bit smaller to the smallest size of that screw. This way when you join the two pannels together and screw them the screw won't separate them because of the first pannel has almost no way to keep them separate. There's no friction or hold-apart power...

X-cuse me for my poor english!
Edited by maxserg - 1/10/13 at 4:48pm
post #53 of 377
Thread Starter 
Yose! Check it!



Gotta cut the ports and router for the 12's but I am getting close smile.gif
post #54 of 377
Thread Starter 
I don't like titebond. All it does is run down the seams and pool up on the bottom of the box. Once I cut the baffle, I am going to go around all the boxes with silicone to hopefully seal them up additionally. I did use PL on each of the bottom panels and screws.
post #55 of 377
Quote:
Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post

I don't like titebond. All it does is run down the seams and pool up on the bottom of the box. Once I cut the baffle, I am going to go around all the boxes with silicone to hopefully seal them up additionally. I did use PL on each of the bottom panels and screws.

Hmm. Try painting it (titebond) on the edges of the boards with a small brush. That method has always worked well for me. Once you have it assembled and nailed (if you choose) just run some along the inside seams of the box with your finger (gloves) and wipe off excess on the outside.
post #56 of 377
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gorilla83 View Post

Hmm. Try painting it (titebond) on the edges of the boards with a small brush. That method has always worked well for me. Once you have it assembled and nailed (if you choose) just run some along the inside seams of the box with your finger (gloves) and wipe off excess on the outside.

That is almost exactly what I did. I just think part of the problem is I am too heavy-handed with applying the glue. I used a large bottle almost completely just on those three enclosures. I was just a little upset when I came down this am and saw that more of the glue had pooled at the bottom of the ports where it had leaked down the edges after I did exactly the above. I still can almost guarantee I am sealed, I just didn't like to see that. PL obviously doesn't move much compared to TB. I did also nail them which was wonderful smile.gif
post #57 of 377
With wood glue you only need enough to get a little squeeze out, a little goes a long way and if you made clean cuts then it is sealed for sure. You should run just enough to have a small bead you can run a finger across and it shouldn't run anymore from there.

Once you get the hang of using Titebond it will be your go to glue over PL since you don't have to use gloves, clean-up is easier and you wind up using a lot less. PL is great when you don't have clean cuts to fill in the gaps or for enclosures like Tapped Horns which needs to be sealed airtight but you can't run an extra bead of glue once the final panel is installed.
post #58 of 377
Quote:
Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post

I don't like titebond. All it does is run down the seams and pool up on the bottom of the box. Once I cut the baffle, I am going to go around all the boxes with silicone to hopefully seal them up additionally. I did use PL on each of the bottom panels and screws.
I agree with the others, you used way too much.
post #59 of 377
+1

I only use titebond, like mjaudio said a little bead is all you need. smile.gif I also stopped sealing the inside corners as well, I never have problems with leaks when my cuts are strait. Though if you have problems with it running down the joints before you get the panels together then I suggest this:Titebond No-Run, No-Drip Wood Glue
I use that if I need the glue to stay put for a while without dripping down on a vertical surface.
post #60 of 377
Quote:
Originally Posted by mjaudio View Post

With wood glue you only need enough to get a little squeeze out, a little goes a long way and if you made clean cuts then it is sealed for sure. You should run just enough to have a small bead you can run a finger across and it shouldn't run anymore from there.

Once you get the hang of using Titebond it will be your go to glue over PL since you don't have to use gloves, clean-up is easier and you wind up using a lot less. PL is great when you don't have clean cuts to fill in the gaps or for enclosures like Tapped Horns which needs to be sealed airtight but you can't run an extra bead of glue once the final panel is installed.

I like your sytle MJ... You glue with class bro.

I employ the same technique with the elmers wood glue I use...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Face2 View Post

I agree with the others, you used way too much.

Too much? That term does not compute with beast...

Beast, don't listen to these naysayers! Nothing wrong with a little glue headroom... You got it everywhere else in your system...
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