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AE TD12x SEOS12 Build!!!! - Page 3

post #61 of 377
Thread Starter 
Thanks dudes, I will make sure to be a little more conservative next time around. The no-drip stuff does look nice as well though smile.gif I already have a bunch of dupont silicone to apply so I might as well, but for those of us paranoid of leaks, I almost purchased some of that rubberized spray seal to see how well that works. might be overkill but might be a really easy additional countermeasure (NOT and alternative to gluing).
post #62 of 377
Quote:
Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post

Yose! Check it!



Gotta cut the ports and router for the 12's but I am getting close smile.gif

Aww...another audiophile and MTBer! I am building my first DH rig now. I have always been more "AM" till my club president took me to our local DH lift access park and as a former BMX/Freestyler, I was hooked. Even at late 30's I was hooked.
post #63 of 377
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gorilla83 View Post

Hmm. Try painting it (titebond) on the edges of the boards with a small brush. That method has always worked well for me. Once you have it assembled and nailed (if you choose) just run some along the inside seams of the box with your finger (gloves) and wipe off excess on the outside.

I still do it the old fashioned way. Squeeze a bead on the edge of the panel and spread it with my finger so that the edge of the board is 100%covered. Then clamp in place. I have not used a single fastener in my last five builds. Also almost no filler, since I do not have any holes to fill. A little longer to build the box, but finishing does go pretty quick.
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post #64 of 377
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by AudioJosh View Post

Aww...another audiophile and MTBer! I am building my first DH rig now. I have always been more "AM" till my club president took me to our local DH lift access park and as a former BMX/Freestyler, I was hooked. Even at late 30's I was hooked.
Funny story about that actually. I took a good run with a bud of mine that has a custom BottleRocket that he built from the ground up and at the end of the ride on my old bike, the ProFlex "Beast" (Accordingly I guess, lol) I noticed it was moving in places it shouldnt. last I wanted to happen was the frame break on another run trying to keep up with him on a 6" plus travel bike with my weak little 2" maybe travel bike. Long story short, I sold it for $200 and the next week the guy moved firms and a new guy came in and sold me that KingFisher II for $250. Quite a nice upgrade for $50.

At least I thought so until I went "AM" with some buds thinking "Yea this bike weighs a little more but it can still handle climbs, I am in shape." WELL that statement was a little premature. That thing is a HAUS to take uphill but I still manage. I a working on selling my Giant XTc street/dirt jumper to fund an AM build so I can actually hang with the dudes on bikes that weigh 20 less pounds, haha.

Quote:
Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 5 View Post

I still do it the old fashioned way. Squeeze a bead on the edge of the panel and spread it with my finger so that the edge of the board is 100%covered. Then clamp in place. I have not used a single fastener in my last five builds. Also almost no filler, since I do not have any holes to fill. A little longer to build the box, but finishing does go pretty quick.

I like that method as well, just dont have the clamps to do it....yet, nor the patience. I do so far LOVE the brad nailer and the tiny holes it leaves are barely noticeable after a small drip of Titebond in any hole that they leave.

Here are some update pics. All boxes are flush trimmed with router now, and the front baffles are ready:



This is the stain I have decided on for these, the pic doesn't do much justice but it really darkens the BB and brings out some good marble in the wood to boot.:



There will be poly applied to that to really make it pop. The front baffle will be painted flat black still. I remembered tonight why I quit working with MDF. Dang I hate that stuff but the front baffle I got from Erich was still well worth it, since I planned all along painting it black.
post #65 of 377
Thread Starter 
Hope ya'll liked the above, but next question: Use the rubber rings on the TD12x's or remove and use closed-cell gasketing. I plan on using that for the WG's but the woofer just looks a little better with the rubber rings on them, but I still feel the gasket tape will have a better seal. With both using the gasket tape it will bring them both above the recess that I cut to match but I guess it is a little too late for that, oh well. It won't be much.
post #66 of 377
You should use the 1/8" thick gasket tape around the SEOS. I used this stuff in all the builds:

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=260-540


You could also use it on the woofer and keep the outer gasket as well.
post #67 of 377
Thread Starter 
I think with the woofer that will still be too much. It is not a super big deal to remove the rubber ring, I just think it cleans up the appearance a little smile.gif I will experiment once I have it all ready to drop in.
post #68 of 377
Thread Starter 
Alrighty!!! Got the baffles on, braces in, gotta sand the rest of the front baffles and they are ready for a finish coat or two of flat black. I also have to PL the braces into place smile.gif



You think PL or wood glue will hold them in place better? They are all snug on their own but I want to run around each base to get them locked in. I know it isn't crazy bracing like some do around here but I hit each soft-point with this method and I feel it is ample. If I need more, lemme know!!! Also, there is another cross brace below the woofer hole that you can't see smile.gif
post #69 of 377
If I were you, I would use weatherstrip/foam to seal the waveguide and hold them in place with screws. They will stay put, and you can take them apart easily if you ever need to.

If you really want to glue then, definitely use PL instead of Titebond. The PL will stay in place, expand, and ensure an air tight seal.

For anyone else reading this, here's another option for waveguides that don't have screw holes -- I epoxied some bolts to the back of my waveguides (fg, no screw holes):
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1440924/seos-15-dna-360-ae-td15m-center-channel#post_22772026

-Max
post #70 of 377
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by maxcooper View Post

If I were you, I would use weatherstrip/foam to seal the waveguide and hold them in place with screws. They will stay put, and you can take them apart easily if you ever need to.

If you really want to glue then, definitely use PL instead of Titebond. The PL will stay in place, expand, and ensure an air tight seal.

For anyone else reading this, here's another option for waveguides that don't have screw holes -- I epoxied some bolts to the back of my waveguides (fg, no screw holes):
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1440924/seos-15-dna-360-ae-td15m-center-channel#post_22772026

-Max

Haha, I meant the braces, not the waveguides! Lol. I would never suggest gluing the actual components to the box! I have some closed cell foam for the WG's and the speakers.
post #71 of 377
Dang, how'd I miss these pics?!? Looking really good beast! The stain with black baffle will look sweet. cool.gif
post #72 of 377
Looking great, beast! Can't wait until you get some listening impressions soon, you're getting close. smile.gif

I'm thinking I'm going to paint the port area (first few inches of bottom panel below port and top of port brace) before I install into the box. Seems like it might be a bit easier that way, thoughts?
post #73 of 377
^ That's what I did Gorilla. I taped off where the port would be glued and painted the inside pieces of the port.
post #74 of 377
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gorilla83 View Post

Looking great, beast! Can't wait until you get some listening impressions soon, you're getting close. smile.gif

I'm thinking I'm going to paint the port area (first few inches of bottom panel below port and top of port brace) before I install into the box. Seems like it might be a bit easier that way, thoughts?

I have an HVLP sprayer, so I just plan on shooting a little into the port to get it coated relatively well. a small foam roller also fits in there. I am only doing it this way since I Plan on spraying, it is a must to paint before you assemble if doing it any other way. Also, if you ARE spraying for anyone else considering that, remember all that paint/air that you are shooting through the port only has one other way to escape: OUT THE SPEAKER HOLE!!!! Make sure and wear your painting clothes and eye protection because you almost always will get some splatter on you.
post #75 of 377
Quote:
Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post

I have an HVLP sprayer, so I just plan on shooting a little into the port to get it coated relatively well. a small foam roller also fits in there. I am only doing it this way since I Plan on spraying, it is a must to paint before you assemble if doing it any other way. Also, if you ARE spraying for anyone else considering that, remember all that paint/air that you are shooting through the port only has one other way to escape: OUT THE SPEAKER HOLE!!!! Make sure and wear your painting clothes and eye protection because you almost always will get some splatter on you.

Good call, I hadn't thought of the small 4" rollers - that would work too. It's probably just easier if I throw some paint on before assembly, but I can always touch up with the small roller if needed.

I have a few spray guns as well, but as easy as Duratex is to roll on, I'll probably just stick with that. cool.gif

How are the crossovers coming along?
post #76 of 377
Quote:
Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gorilla83 View Post

Looking great, beast! Can't wait until you get some listening impressions soon, you're getting close. smile.gif

I'm thinking I'm going to paint the port area (first few inches of bottom panel below port and top of port brace) before I install into the box. Seems like it might be a bit easier that way, thoughts?

I have an HVLP sprayer, so I just plan on shooting a little into the port to get it coated relatively well. a small foam roller also fits in there. I am only doing it this way since I Plan on spraying, it is a must to paint before you assemble if doing it any other way. Also, if you ARE spraying for anyone else considering that, remember all that paint/air that you are shooting through the port only has one other way to escape: OUT THE SPEAKER HOLE!!!! Make sure and wear your painting clothes and eye protection because you almost always will get some splatter on you.

Hey beast you gonna spray Duratex? I want to do this, so you try it and tell me how it works wink.gif
post #77 of 377
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by NicksHitachi View Post

Hey beast you gonna spray Duratex? I want to do this, so you try it and tell me how it works wink.gif

unfortunately no, just good ole flat black paint. If it doesnt turn out well, I might give duratex a shot though.
post #78 of 377
Thread Starter 
BEEEEEFY!!!! Man these are a sight to behold!!! Thanks to an "anonymous" forum member that built these out for me. I can safely say beyond a shadow of a doubt that I am glad I outsourced this part of the build!!!!! I can't even stop looking at these beasts!!! I did upgrade the caps to Jantzen crosscaps for a little more but I felt it was a good move as their testing is the closest in measurements together and I wanted something other than the ole PE dayton caps. Man these things are AWESOME!!!!!!



HUGE!!! And I love it!! I can't get these speakers built fast enough now smile.gif
post #79 of 377
Wow!

Those x-overs look PRO, can't wait to hear what they sound like.

Great work brotha!
post #80 of 377
Quote:
Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post

BEEEEEFY!!!! Man these are a sight to behold!!! Thanks to an "anonymous" forum member that built these out for me. I can safely say beyond a shadow of a doubt that I am glad I outsourced this part of the build!!!!! I can't even stop looking at these beasts!!! I did upgrade the caps to Jantzen crosscaps for a little more but I felt it was a good move as their testing is the closest in measurements together and I wanted something other than the ole PE dayton caps. Man these things are AWESOME!!!!!!



HUGE!!! And I love it!! I can't get these speakers built fast enough now smile.gif

Awesome!! How about some close ups for those who still need to build. biggrin.gif underneath too! biggrin.gif
post #81 of 377
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gorilla83 View Post

Awesome!! How about some close ups for those who still need to build. biggrin.gif underneath too! biggrin.gif

Good idea!

Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery biggrin.gif
post #82 of 377
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gorilla83 View Post

Awesome!! How about some close ups for those who still need to build. biggrin.gif underneath too! biggrin.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by mjaudio View Post

Good idea!

Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery biggrin.gif

Done deal, gimme a sec... Im telling ya'll these XO are definitely PRO!!!
post #83 of 377
Thread Starter 
Platforms to make them sit flat and all. BOOM!!!





post #84 of 377
Thread Starter 
Man those Jantzen caps look quite alright!!!!
post #85 of 377
BEAUTIFUL! Thanks Beast!! My components come in tomorrow so I will take a look. cool.gif
post #86 of 377
Nice!

Thanks B
post #87 of 377
Thread Starter 
No prob guys. I would suggest a cap upgrade for a small $$ amount... The benefit of the jantzens testing so closely together is worth it!!!
post #88 of 377
Looking good Beast, it's almost a shame to stuff that crossover inside a cabinet...
post #89 of 377
You should try to get a photo of some other speaker's crossover board next to those for comparison. That's one thing I want to eventually upload to the site to let people know one of the differences between DIY and store bought.
post #90 of 377
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Erich H View Post

You should try to get a photo of some other speaker's crossover board next to those for comparison. That's one thing I want to eventually upload to the site to let people know one of the differences between DIY and store bought.

Can do. A stock PE eminence XO vs. a quality-built-specific-to the build XO. Really there is no comparison..


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