Rear port of Sub Rattling

If it's a rattling of the port tube then you need to secure it somehow, sounds like it has become loose. Maybe a little electrical tape, maybe just a wedge of sorts; open it up and see what you need to do or take it to someone who can do that for you. Probably a simple repair. Good excuse for upgrading the sub, tho.

You probably have to pull the driver.

Using the correct tools help ( ), look at the fasteners around the rim of the driver, might be a phillips or hex (and might be metric if hex, might be English measure).

Stuffing the port changes the way the sub works, thus the change in sound. Some subs even come with port plugs (usually of foam). The port is a tube inside the enclosure, so it probably came unglued or something.

If there's nothing loose inside then the only other possible noise source is the driver.

People will often apply polyfill for sealed subwoofers, but I would not do this with a ported sub, and I don't think this is really addressing your issue. Like Bill said, it could be the driver.

All subs should be lined with damping, which reduces above bandwidth harmonic distortion. Only sealed subs should be stuffed. It could be you're just playing it too loud and/or too low, but a damaged driver (caused by playing too loud and/or too low) is a possibility, and it will only get worse if it is.

You looked inside or put your hands in there and tried to see if anything was loose to your fingers? I'm still thinking of your description as a rattling sound, but maybe that's not conveying it either. Any possibility you have something in the port tube still? Imagine if you've turned the sub in various directions you probably would know, but kids can get creative as can prankster friends....

There are many many threads discussing subs at the pricepoint you're thinking about. Usual culprits are SVS, Hsu, Epik (out of stock), Outlaw, etc. Then there are various subs on closeout sales (like the Klipsch RW12d when it goes for $299 shipped). Appears you can get the same Velodyne sub now for $249 (plus shipping?) as a refurb now http://velodyne.com/vrp-12-subwoofer-refurbished.html

ps A lot of things aren't made for the long run any more, and many consumer electronics fall in this category, too.

I would turn down the gain on your sub, try to get that -10 closer to between -5 and 0 and see if you still have the issue. Are you using Audyssey? If so -10 is on the higher side...

The Epic Legend had a recent price drop to 400 dollars? Just tossing around some ideas though. That and the PB-1000. Personally though, I am going to save up and just get something under 1000. We all know it's only a matter of time if we keep coming back to this forum that we'll wanna see what the hype is about. The VTF-15H is my dream currently. Hopefully within the next 2-3 years, with the goal being 2 of them within the next 5.

I wouldn't do the Klipsch though. I'm having a similar rattling sound and apparently other people are too. I'd go with something a little better made. Might as well upgrade if you're going to get something new and you can't get this fixed. 5 years isn't bad.

Good luck buying anything from Epik other then t-shirts.

Ha, I was really really sad to see that I missed the deal and it's out of stock. I wish I could place a preorder right now! It's for the best though. I'd probably be buying something I don't need but the price seemed so nice at 400 dollars who can resist.

No, just lower the gain on the sub a little bit, then the number Audyssey assigns will get lower and closer 0, which is what you want. If the bass is too low for your liking, then you can start raising the sub level through your receiver.

The setting that came from the autosetup routine is just trying to reach a level that is "correct" with respect to the other speakers (and vs reference in many receivers) based on how your sub responds in room. -10 is just under four times more "power" (really voltage) in to the sub than -15 would be, but in the end it's just a matter of getting the two deifferent volume controls to add up tho the right level. Lots of folks around here like to fiddle with their sub volume controls until the receiver's sub out level is close to zero (say -3 to +3 as a generality) but it should not make a difference except in rare cases. (Some folks need a hotter input signal to wake up their subs that have auto-on, so they turn the sub down so the receiver outputs a higher level to the sub). Absent identifiable problems, any calibration should be just fine as long as your receiver is not setting the sub at the max, either plus or minus, because you don't know if max is correct, of the system just ran out of adjustment range.

It's a line out (pre amp level) to the sub, has nothing to do with the amp in the receiver.

Meaning the sub has its own amplifier so your receiver doesn't power it....

Now makes me wonder since he has to ask, just how cknookie has the sub connected?