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Epson 5020UB Owners Thread... - Page 41

post #1201 of 1270
Quote:
Originally Posted by usace View Post

Regarding alignment of the colors - I think I follow the theory of moving in increments of 8 (8 = 1 full pixel). However, with this method wouldn't you have to set each of the 4 corners the same? In other words the top left is adjusted 8 spots the the left, so you would apply the same 8 spots to the left in the other 3 corners, correct? What if the bottom right is fine as far as horizontal adjustment goes, but needs vertical adjustment only. I guess you just have to hope the same adjustment is needed universally and compromise some misalignment in some areas for better alignment in other areas.

 

Yes that is correct, all corners adjusted the same in the horizontal and/or vertical planes is what I found to bring significant improvement in sharpness/clarity when using the LCD Align feature (which I had to because my misalignment was unbearable to me).

 

Many cases of misalignment probably include some slight angle in the physical Z plane (i.e. panels slightly too far back or forward) causing the issues we see in the vertical and horizontal.

If that is the case, it is impossible to make the entire image aligned without doing the intersection based adjustments, leading to scaling of the image, which in my case led to a softness/out-of-focus effect on large areas of the image.

 

That's why I recommend doing the uniform adjustment to better as much of the central image as possible.

post #1202 of 1270
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigly View Post

As the alignment feature is software based and does not change the fact that the panels are physically out of line, that green line wont budge (as the red and blue panels don't have any pixels physically there to combine with the green).


It should only show in content with a strong green element in that row (e.g. white clouds).

I have one at the bottom of my image but it's rarely noticeable.

You can project it onto your black borders if it bothers too much.


For the symptoms you describe I'd first try moving the red panel to the right one pixel with a +8 on the horizontal in all four corners.

I suspect you will also benefit from moving the blue one the same (otherwise your unwanted green line would be more cyan).


Depending on how bad the vertical is, you may benefit from +8 vertical on one or both panels too.
But if it is only fringing and not approaching an entire pixel out, moving it down a whole pixel may just make it fringe the other side of the line, potentially more than it does without +8.


I think it was BMoreE who suggested good results with using a factor of 4 instead of 8 which will give you more scope to sort fringing closer to half a pixel misaligned but it has more chance of causing sub-pixel scaling artifacts.


With physical misalignment you are never going to get it aligned across the entire image with this shift without scaling method.

Even with alignment mine goes slightly out as you move away from the center.


In my opinion it is better to choose an alignment which betters as much of the middle of the image as possible.

Got it, thanks. I will certainly try this and I appreciate your feedback.

Yes, the green line does not really affect things because I have a CIH set-up and the edges are always side-masked.

So, just to confirm, am I correct in saying that the 'Reset' option will return all values in pixel realignment back to '0'? In case one makes a complete hash of it, I assume one can start again from scratch in each case?
post #1203 of 1270
Quote:
Originally Posted by musicalfox View Post


Got it, thanks. I will certainly try this and I appreciate your feedback.

Yes, the green line does not really affect things because I have a CIH set-up and the edges are always side-masked.

So, just to confirm, am I correct in saying that the 'Reset' option will return all values in pixel realignment back to '0'? In case one makes a complete hash of it, I assume one can start again from scratch in each case?

 

No probs & yes 'Reset' sets all pixel alignment values back to 0.

 

Good luck!

post #1204 of 1270
Hi all, I am a recent proud of owner of a 5020. As everybody I am going through the dreaded stage to find the optimal screen for my room. Dont want to get this thread out of topic so I am just linking the thread that i am interested in Elite Cinegrey-5D.

If anybody has any experience with the material I would appreciate your feedback. I am trying to find anything on this new screen and its hard to get around reviews and opinions. Dont want to commit without reading up some. Competition in the ALR tech is still limited to just a few manufacturers and prices are in the high end.
post #1205 of 1270
I've got a placement question for the 5020. My wife has a strong preference to place my soon to be arrived projector on a shelf 20 feet from the screen. I've got a desire to ceiling mount it closer to maximize image size. If I go with her idea and project from 20 feet away, what is the largest acceptable screen size I'll be able to go with in a fully light controlled room?

Thanks for the input.
post #1206 of 1270
Quote:
Originally Posted by iron-marshal View Post

I've got a placement question for the 5020. My wife has a strong preference to place my soon to be arrived projector on a shelf 20 feet from the screen. I've got a desire to ceiling mount it closer to maximize image size. If I go with her idea and project from 20 feet away, what is the largest acceptable screen size I'll be able to go with in a fully light controlled room?

Thanks for the input.


This is from the manual.

 

For 16:9 aspect ratio

 

9.8 to 20.9 feet  100" screen

11.8 to 25.1 feet 120" screen

14.7 to 31.4 feet 150" screen

17.7 to 37.7 feet 180" screen

 

The 5020 puts out plenty of light, in the light controlled room it should not be a problem no matter what screen size you pick.

post #1207 of 1270
Quote:
Originally Posted by iron-marshal View Post

I've got a placement question for the 5020. My wife has a strong preference to place my soon to be arrived projector on a shelf 20 feet from the screen. I've got a desire to ceiling mount it closer to maximize image size. If I go with her idea and project from 20 feet away, what is the largest acceptable screen size I'll be able to go with in a fully light controlled room?

Thanks for the input.


If you decide to go wall mount this shelf fits perfectly and looks pretty cool.

http://www.amazon.com/OmniMount-ECSB-Component-Shelf-Accessories/dp/B000EGI7V4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1392309077&sr=8-2&keywords=projector+wall+mount

 

post #1208 of 1270
Thanks. I had seen the throw range data, was a bit curious because I had read some postings on the screen forum to place the projector within a foot of its minimum throw distance for the given screen size. If I go to 20' throw, I'll be at the outer limit for a 120" screen. According to the calculator, at that distance, and with an approximately .8 gain Accoustically Transparent screen, I'll be getting 11fL of light, which the calculator suggests is not enough.
post #1209 of 1270
Quote:
Originally Posted by iron-marshal View Post

Thanks. I had seen the throw range data, was a bit curious because I had read some postings on the screen forum to place the projector within a foot of its minimum throw distance for the given screen size. If I go to 20' throw, I'll be at the outer limit for a 120" screen. According to the calculator, at that distance, and with an approximately .8 gain Acoustically Transparent screen, I'll be getting 11fL of light, which the calculator suggests is not enough.

All projector lens have a sweet spot where it's desirable to not be too close or too far from the screen. Placing the projector close to the screen does increase the brightness but may not be the best spot for optimum picture quality. The Projector Central calculator tries to deal with this by placing the projector somewhere just ahead of the mid point in the throw range. However some people because of configuration issues go much closer or much farther back, sometimes there's no other choice.

Your situation has the additional complication of using a 0.8 gain AT screen which means less light is being reflected back to the viewer. If you're planning on using this for 3D you will want as much brightness as possible.

http://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-PowerLite_Home_Cinema_5020UB-projection-calculator-pro.htm
post #1210 of 1270
Quote:
Originally Posted by iron-marshal View Post

Thanks. I had seen the throw range data, was a bit curious because I had read some postings on the screen forum to place the projector within a foot of its minimum throw distance for the given screen size. If I go to 20' throw, I'll be at the outer limit for a 120" screen. According to the calculator, at that distance, and with an approximately .8 gain Accoustically Transparent screen, I'll be getting 11fL of light, which the calculator suggests is not enough.

Try this:

http://www.epson.com/alf_upload/landing/distance-calculator/

I sit about 16 feet from my 106" screen and it is plenty bright for 2D with a 1.0 gain screen. As noted above though, you might want 1.2 or 1.4 gain if you watch a lot of 3D but then you will have a really bright 2D image and blacks may suffer (along with your eyes on an all white image eek.gif ).

BTW, I have had my screen down the entire time of the Olympics - the shots of the mountains and surrounding areas is fabulous with the 5020.
post #1211 of 1270
So I ordered the 5020ube kinda onsale for $2100 not a refurbished unit.

Set up and the auto lens cover did not work properly (just touching it while trying to open it would open all the way).

Epson says new firmware and send me the firmware for 5010. When I opened the firmware and read 5010 I think I better call to make sure.

Well the tech responds no firmware update will fix my problem and they must send me a new unit.

It's a great picture.

Only issue is hand shake with my antenna tuner. The audio is fine and never cuts out but the video goes black. Homeworx pvwr hoping the issue goes away with new projector.
post #1212 of 1270
Just received my refurbished 5020 from Visual Apex this morning and it looks incredible out of the box. Much better contrast and black levels than the Benq w1070 in the middle of the day. Almost as good as the plasma I replaced!

I was worried about input lag, but it's a non issue (I played a bit of Battlefield 4 online) even without Fast mode turned on.

I'll be doing a more adjusting/testing tonight when I get home from work.
post #1213 of 1270
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dreadedphoto View Post

Just received my refurbished 5020 from Visual Apex this morning and it looks incredible out of the box. Much better contrast and black levels than the Benq w1070 in the middle of the day. Almost as good as the plasma I replaced!

I was worried about input lag, but it's a non issue (I played a bit of Battlefield 4 online) even without Fast mode turned on.

I'll be doing a more adjusting/testing tonight when I get home from work.

Got this from the projectorcentral review should be helpful "'if you are going to play games on the 5020UBe, use Fast processing and no Frame Interpolation. Super Resolution, lamp power, and image mode have zero effect on input lag, so feel free to use whatever you like. Also note that using WirelessHD does not add to input lag, as far as we can tell. Tests of the same modes over HDMI and WirelessHD link returned results within a few milliseconds of one another"
post #1214 of 1270
After spending all weekend playing with my 5020, I discovered a pretty sizeable green blob near the center of the screen. It's not always noticeable, but it's very apparent during dark scenes. I guess I'll give Epson a call in the morning. I'm thrilled with the picture quality, but I noticed that there's something strange about the way it shows motion. Frame interpolation is turned off, but it seems as if all the movies/shows I watch are being displayed at the wrong refresh rate. Projector info says it's 60hz. Is there any way to adjust this? The Benq w1070 I replaced this with did not have this issue. Does anyone know what I'm talking about?
post #1215 of 1270
If you're watching DVD's or cable/satellite shows, then 60 is probably what you'll usually get. If you're watching Blu-Ray movies, then it should be reading /24. For that you need to check the output of your blu-ray player to be sure it's sending 1080p/24fps or that your prepro (if it has video resolution capability) isn't changing it. As far as frame interpolation, it's not something I like the look of (the "soap opera effect) but I always run mine on "low". I don't see the SOE but it does help some with motion artifacts.
post #1216 of 1270
Just got this projector as a replacement for my 8700ub. What settings on the projector do I need for 3D to work with my PS3.
post #1217 of 1270
Quote:
Originally Posted by jsil View Post

Just got this projector as a replacement for my 8700ub. What settings on the projector do I need for 3D to work with my PS3.

The default settings on the PJ should be OK, but make sure you re-run the display setup on the PS3, otherwise it won't know that you have a 3D capable display.
post #1218 of 1270
Thanks for the reply. Will try out 3D this weekend and see how much I like it. biggrin.gif
post #1219 of 1270
Got a couple of question before the big night tonight watching 3D. The set up menu for 3D has 3D display on/off, 3D format Auto, 3D Depth, 3D Brightness, Inverse 3d Glasses and 3D viewing Notice on. Do I leave everything at default like kriktsemaj99 say's or do a little tweaking. Just want to make sure I got everything set properly thanks.
Edited by jsil - 3/1/14 at 5:13pm
post #1220 of 1270
You need to set 3d display to on, set to auto for bluray and brightness to high.
post #1221 of 1270
Quote:
Originally Posted by ashyt16 View Post

You need to set 3d display to on, set to auto for bluray and brightness to high.

I find the high setting increases noticeable cross talk on some titles. I usually leave mine at medium which seems to be the best compromise.

What does everyone use as their color setting?

I leave mine on dynamic as the other color modes seem to dim for comfortable viewing.
post #1222 of 1270
Got done watching Avatar in 3D and it was great. There was some minor ghosting I could see but not to bad. But when I turn 3D display on and go back to 2D I get double images. Did I miss something in the set up menu.
post #1223 of 1270
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Benson View Post

I find the high setting increases noticeable cross talk on some titles. I usually leave mine at medium which seems to be the best compromise.

What does everyone use as their color setting?

I leave mine on dynamic as the other color modes seem to dim for comfortable viewing.

Really? I haven't noticed that. In fact I very rarely see any crosstalk unless I really look for it. In most movies I see no cross talk at all.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jsil View Post

Got done watching Avatar in 3D and it was great. There was some minor ghosting I could see but not to bad. But when I turn 3D display on and go back to 2D I get double images. Did I miss something in the set up menu.

Are you sure you don't have 2d to 3d conversion on? I hope you didn't have this on when watching Avatar as you probably wouldn't have watched it in REAL 3d. I didn't see any noticeable ghosting in Avatar.
Which player did you use?

If you are watching Blu-ray you should have 3d set to 'Auto'. You don't need to enable anything else. The PJ will go into 3d mode automatically. If it's a SBS or OU movie then you should enable SBS or Over/Under mode respectively then just switch the PJ back to 'Auto' when finished watching.

The easiest thing to do is to assign the '3d Format' option in the Menu to the 'User' button. This way all you need do is press one button to access the right 3d option.
Edited by ashyt16 - 3/3/14 at 11:44am
post #1224 of 1270
Quote:
Originally Posted by ashyt16 View Post

Really? I have noticed that. In fact I very rarely see any crosstalk unless I really look for it. In most movies I see no cross talk at all.
Are you sure you don't have 2d to 3d conversion on? I hope you didn't have this on when watching Avatar as you probably wouldn't have watched in in REAL 3d. I didn't see any noticeable ghosting in Avatar.
Which player did you use?

I'm using the PS3. I have Avatar and that title has little to no cross talk for me. Its one of the best looking titles in my collection. The only cross talk I see is some subtle ghosting of the Navi subtitles and a little in the far backgrounds of some shots if you are really looking for it.

When I say that the high brightness setting makes cross talk more noticeable I mean it only makes the cross talk more obvious. But it is there across all 3 brightness settings. Titles like Avatar that have next to no cross talk (at least for me) look fine at the high brightness setting. But cross talk prone titles / scenes have the cross talk slightly amplified at the higher setting.

Again it varies title to title for me.

My best discs with little to no cross talk seem to be Avatar, Titanic, the Hobbit, Gravity, Despicable Me and Pacific Rim.

I get some of the most noticeable cross talk in sections of Jurassic Park, My Bloody Valentine and Piranha 3DD.
Edited by Bob Benson - 3/4/14 at 6:01pm
post #1225 of 1270
Quote:
Originally Posted by jsil View Post

Just got this projector as a replacement for my 8700ub.
What do you think of it compared to the 8700UB?
post #1226 of 1270
The contrast levels look better and sharpness to me is about the same.
post #1227 of 1270
I just received mine yesterday as a replacement for my 8700UB. The contrast levels and brightness are definitely better. I also thing the sharpness is better too. I did notice on a complete black screen there are 2 blue circles that are present. They are very faint. Dust blobs? Is there a way to remove them or does the projector need to be sent in?
post #1228 of 1270
So did you call Epson about your problem?. So far my replacement has been working fine and see no problems with PQ. I hope this one lasts a long time because I'm getting tired of exchanges. eek.gif
post #1229 of 1270
Quote:
Originally Posted by jsil View Post

So did you call Epson about your problem?. So far my replacement has been working fine and see no problems with PQ. I hope this one lasts a long time because I'm getting tired of exchanges. eek.gif
I'm out of town now. I don't really notice it unless the screen is very dark. If i look directly at them I don't notice them as much but if I look away from them I can see them in my peripheral vision. I might give them a call when I get back.
post #1230 of 1270
Has anybody had issues with flickering brightness on their 5020UB? Lately I have been noticing the brightness of my image sort of flicker or fluctuate. I especially notice it on light colored or uniform colored scenes. I also see it on the blue test pattern with no input. It is not a constant and consistent brightness. I never use the iris and it's off. I also did try restoring factory defaults. It does it even after being on for a couple hours. The projector is about 1 year and 2 months old. The lamp time is 1372 hours. Its hard to describe the issue but it is present all the time now. Could my lamp be failing already?
Edited by Dan-Tron - 3/16/14 at 12:14am
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