Atempt at repairing Maelstrom-x 18

Are you attempting to re-use the softparts?

Unless it's a very different design than the usual, you can't. Typically you'd have to do a full recone.

I have never been able to successfully remove a spider without damage due to the adhesive (typically ca) bonding within the fibers. I am of the opinion it is easier to get a new cone assembly. I wish I had better news for you.

Chris

The same issues will be present at the triple joint. I would recommend replacing the soft part entirely. I have found them to never be up to my standards after even carefully cutting everything apart.

I am not sure. I hope someone else can help there. I use the brute force method.

Why epoxy?

I'd stick with the high-strength & flexible CA which I believe is what they use.

Can you post a picture of the motor assembly as it is so I can see how much clearance you have to work with. I used a very nice epoxy setup when I repaired a few 6 inch drivers that had separated the sider from the coil former and it was injected using a very small syringe. It worked great.

Keep cranking,

Robert
Edited by robertcharles - 1/7/13 at 1:06am

Some years back I repeaired a $20,000 color plotter with crazy glue instead of swallowing a $2,000+ repair bill. I was a part of the print head/carriage. It worked and I got years of use out of it even though the stresses are rather similar to a driver (rapid direction changes, continuous operation).

I'
ve never seen an epoxy that's as low viscosity as CA.

You could also look into Loctite's bearing repair stuff for filling gaps between bearing races and worn housings.

Fortunately the glue on the ring only has to hold together statically and only endure the VC heat; luckily there isn't a substainal load of moving parts upon it (like the spider and surround).

Got any pics of the gap and coil keager? I'm curious to know what it looks like in PI space. I repaired my 21's almost a year ago now and it had what appears to be 8 beefy layers on the beast. (Both still work to this day).
But the 21's doesn't have the z-lip at the spider, and most likely has a bigger gap too. Repairing the 18's would probably be quite a bit more challanging.

When you put it back together, because you can't use any shims, you'll have to hold the cone down while playing some soft sinewaves, c-clamps should work.
Once there is no rattle or rub from the ring or coil, then reapply the glue (without moving anything).

It took me a good 3 or 4 hours to fix each sub.

On a side note, I've been contimplating replacing my two aging SDX-15's with new RE-18's, and if they impress me enough, maybe all my Mal's too.

Thats a neat trick to center the coil in the gap without shims, thanks for sharing.

I use Loctite products at work, the green ( bearing retaining grade ) is evil..... when it has set, it is forever. Extreme amounts of heat could cause it to let go, but that range is beyond what the motor will get up to in temperature. It is fairly thick though. Red ( permanent ) is a bit thinner, and blue ( removable ) is even thinner than that.

I can't remember exactly what this malfunction is. Is it the inductance ring on the pole piece?

If the rings are magnetic sleeves on the outside of the coil, then you have to get in under the spider.

Otherwise, maybe cut the dustcap, glue the loose pole ring, and replace the dustcap?
Edited by WiSounds - 1/7/13 at 5:43pm

Yeah it's on the outside, the whole thing has to come out and even then it is a PITA to repair, you have to have the patience of Oprah and the endurance of a Navy Seal to succeed in the task.

The red highlighted part is the ring, apply the glue on the yellow seam (top and bottom) the whole 360 degrees.

Will that help? I thought the shim went on the outside of the coil and is not accessible through the dust cover?

Edit: Your prob gonna put DIY shims on the inside, does not matter.