or Connect
AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › DIY Speakers and Subs › Lt.1300 and uxl-18
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Lt.1300 and uxl-18

post #1 of 19
Thread Starter 
I am contemplating buying a UXL-18 and building a 20 by 20 by 20 inch cube. I currently have a lt.1300 and was wondering if it would be sufficient to power the uxl-18? I know the uxl-18 is rated for 1200 watts and the lt.1300 was rated as 1300 watts from ED, but I always heard that was a lot of BS.
post #2 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by ozziedog View Post

I am contemplating buying a UXL-18 and building a 20 by 20 by 20 inch cube. I currently have a lt.1300 and was wondering if it would be sufficient to power the uxl-18? I know the uxl-18 is rated for 1200 watts and the lt.1300 was rated as 1300 watts from ED, but I always heard that was a lot of BS.

Absolutely. The LT1300 is a very powerful amp. I've read it's been tested to produce even more power than what is was rated (~1500w IIRC). The UXL can take more power, so you'll be amp limited.

 

Here's what Josh Ricci had to say when testing this amp in the A7S-450:

 

"The amplifier in particular was impressive as it seemed to have more than enough power to overload the driver on occasion and never got more than warm --it could probably run 2 of the drivers with no problem."

post #3 of 19
question is, with that amp, is the UXL money wasted? would the Dayton HO18 be a better match?
post #4 of 19
Thread Starter 
I considered the Dayton, but from what I understand it takes 2 Dayton's to compare to the uxl-18 and for the sake of space I would rather have the 1 driver. Plus, with only having 1 it would be easier to add more later if needed.
post #5 of 19
Id way rather have the better quality sub than multiple inferior ones. Thats just me though. That amp would be great with the UXL.
post #6 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by ozziedog View Post

I considered the Dayton, but from what I understand it takes 2 Dayton's to compare to the uxl-18 and for the sake of space I would rather have the 1 driver. Plus, with only having 1 it would be easier to add more later if needed.


i would believe thats due to the UXL's higher power handing. if your only using the max power of the Dayton and only half the power the UXL can handle, what benefit is it? BTW the Dayton is far from an "inferior" driver.
post #7 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by N8DOGG View Post

Id way rather have the better quality sub than multiple inferior ones.

Please elaborate on this.
post #8 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by brian6751 View Post

i would believe thats due to the UXL's higher power handing. if your only using the max power of the Dayton and only half the power the UXL can handle, what benefit is it? BTW the Dayton is far from an "inferior" driver.

So you are saying the build quality of the Dayton is as good as the UXL? Funny, I have one sitting on my work bench and a UXL right beside it. The dayton is a good drivers, there's no denying that but it's not as well made as a UXL. The Carbon fiber cone on the UXL probably costs as much as the Dayton sub cost's to make. With the right box, the LT1300 could get 99% out of the UXL. Not sure why you think it it's half the power. I never said the Daytons were bad subs, but they are inferior to the UXL, if you think otherwise, then thats fine but you'd be wrong.
post #9 of 19
thats not what im saying. i actually didnt "say" anything. i was asking questions, but i will say the UXL isnt a better driver because of its cone material.

if it can move more air than the Dayton with the same amount of power please let me know

the point of my question is, if you are not applying enough power to get the UXL to actually move more air, what advantage would you have? although carbon cones do look cool.
post #10 of 19
I don't think there's any question the UXL is a better driver. Bang for the buck, of course the Dayton wins out. But if you put the 1100 or so watts that I've seen some say they are planning to put on the Daytons on the UXL, you'll get more performance out of it than the Dayton. Yes, you'll leave some output on the table, but the UXL has much more displacement.
post #11 of 19
But you CAN apply enough power with that amp. Inferior, meaning quality of product, performance of product. The dayton is a great driver and performs well but just because someone doesn't have the amp to max out the UXL's performance into the single digits, doesn't mean the dayton is a better product if it can be used 100% with the amp. It just means the person has to buy a bigger amp or design the box to maximize performance with the power available. There is nothing wrong with buying 20 daytons vs 10 UXL's but for me? I'd rather buy less better quality drivers. Thats my personal feelings on the subject and how I buy pretty much everything from TV's to dishsoap.

edit : Like wth718 says, the daytons will win out in bang for the buck every time but I was talking about quality of the product, not bang for the buck.
post #12 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by N8DOGG View Post

But you CAN apply enough power with that amp. Inferior, meaning quality of product, performance of product. The dayton is a great driver and performs well but just because someone doesn't have the amp to max out the UXL's performance into the single digits, doesn't mean the dayton is a better product if it can be used 100% with the amp. It just means the person has to buy a bigger amp or design the box to maximize performance with the power available. There is nothing wrong with buying 20 daytons vs 10 UXL's but for me? I'd rather buy less better quality drivers. Thats my personal feelings on the subject and how I buy pretty much everything from TV's to dishsoap.
edit : Like wth718 says, the daytons will win out in bang for the buck every time but I was talking about quality of the product, not bang for the buck.

yeah, i like to buy quality stuff to, but the OP has an amp already. in fact his question was more about the amp than the driver so saying get the UXL AND buy a bigger amp doesn't really make sense in this case.
Quote:
Originally Posted by wth718 View Post

... if you put the 1100 or so watts that I've seen some say they are planning to put on the Daytons on the UXL, you'll get more performance out of it than the Dayton. Yes, you'll leave some output on the table, but the UXL has much more displacement.

thats pretty much the answer i was fishing for. then it does make sense to use the UXL if that difference is worth it to you. not sure how many db we are talking about though
post #13 of 19
When you really think about it, even the whole "bank-for-the-buck" thing is a close call. UXL is $540 shipped, Daytons $500? You get a bit more output with 2 Daytons, but need twice as much enclosure space as the UXL to achieve it. Depending on your needs/application both are very viable choices.
post #14 of 19
Thread Starter 
For me, I feel I would rather stick with the UXL. I may not get 100% out of it but with less boxes it will leave more room to upgrade later.
post #15 of 19
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by N8DOGG View Post

With the right box, the LT1300 could get 99% out of the UXL.

What would be the right box?
post #16 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by ozziedog View Post

What would be the right box?

Mike P at the HT shack already did the work for you. There are a few different options : http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-subwoofers-general-discussion/49623-new-mach-5-audio-uxl-18-driver.html#axzz2HElWN0pN

I personally like 5.5 CF and you'll never have to worry about your driver getting bottoming out or need a HPF. Thats what size I put mine into.
post #17 of 19
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by N8DOGG View Post

I personally like 5.5 CF and you'll never have to worry about your driver getting bottoming out or need a HPF. Thats what size I put mine into.

I may have missed it but all I saw was 6, 9 and 12 CF ported boxes. I was really wanting to go with a sealed box. Is your 5.5 sealed or ported?
post #18 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by N8DOGG View Post

Mike P at the HT shack already did the work for you. There are a few different options : http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-subwoofers-general-discussion/49623-new-mach-5-audio-uxl-18-driver.html#axzz2HElWN0pN

I personally like 5.5 CF and you'll never have to worry about your driver getting bottoming out or need a HPF. Thats what size I put mine into.
n8dhghl



is your box sealed at 5.5 cf
post #19 of 19
Thread Starter 
Yes, his 5.5cf box is sealed.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: DIY Speakers and Subs
AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › DIY Speakers and Subs › Lt.1300 and uxl-18