BEST bookshelf speaker for under $500. Everybody help out!!! - Page 4

Yep. Leave the speakers on small. If you set any of them to large, that bypasses the crossover. 80hz is often a good choice. You could try 60hz and see if you like it better.

I bought (2) pairs of Paradigm Mini-Monitor speakers as wides/height speakers to match my other Home Theatre Paradigm speakers.
(2008 Paradigm Monitor 9's for front, CC-390 center, 4 ADP-390 for rear and back surround, hence the Monitor bookshelf for wides/fronts.)
http://www.paradigm.com/products/products-by-category/bookshelf/paradigm/monitor-series-7/mini-monitor

The below picture show the heights mounted, the wides wires routed and they are sitting on the bar stools still as temp solution, I'm modifying my walls to incoperate them.


Those Mini-Monitor speakers are rated 40hz-20khz, and via Audyssey it set them at.....40hz!
I set the crossover to 80hz in my HT, but my point is for standalone bookshelf speakers they can go down to 40hz.

Thats your subwoofer amp correct? Just use the rca subwoofer out from your receiver and plug it into the amp on the back of the subwoofer. Hook your speakers up to the correct binding posts on your receiver NOT the subwoofer amp. Do not use the speaker terminals on your subwoofers amp.

All your speakers should hook in to the correct binding posts/clips on the receiver.




So hook the front speakers Left and Right to the front left and right on the receiver.
Same goes from the rest, center speakers goes to center channel binding posts label.

On the back of your receiver NOT subwoofer, you should see a RCA output thats labeled LFE or Subwoofer channel. Take your RCA and plug into that and then into the subwoofer amp that says subwoofer in the white colored RCA input. Then switch it to Digtal receiver 5.1 ect (Not Pro Logic) . Set your subwoofer dial to 80hrz with phase at 0.

Set all the speakers to normal not biamp, then just set them to small then since you can't do individual crossovers for each. During the Arx break in you can run them as large at lower volumes that will help give them some bass to break them in.

Don't over think this. Break in isn't a big deal to worry about if you can't get everything exact. It just takes them awhile to start sounding better.

Hope that helps.

That perfect. Now in your receiver menu you set the subwoofer freq to 80hrz but leave the subwoofer freq control knob on the back of the sub set to its highest 150hrz.

That way your receiver will take care of all the crossovers for speakers and subwoofer(s). That lets everything blend together better. Even though your subwoofers knob is set to 150hrz doesn't mean it will get 150hrz signal, it will get 80hrz and slope down from there letting your speakers pick up the rest and everything will blend much more seamlessly.

If you are going to use them to the side of your MLP then you want to use the surround connections. For the front you want to hook them up where the others were. The front height input is for mounting 2 speakers up high which from my understanding gives a more enveloping sound and the surround back is for speakers being placed behind you for a 7 channel config. At least that is my understanding of it, I could be wrong.

If your only going to use a single pair of surround speakers 70's, use the "Surround" binding posts. Since they are going to be your only surrounds you can place them anywhere like sides, halfway between side and rear or directly behind will just be preference. But when you decide to go 7 channels you would then move the "surround" to the sides and "Rear Surrounds" would go directly behind.

They are made of 3/4" MDF so any screw like 1/2" would work. Theres plenty of room on the bottome incase the screw would go all the way through. I've never used screws to hold down the bookshelf to a stand before, i've always used rubber grip pads and stuck the to the stand and provides a non-slip surface.

Museum wax will not damage your speakers.

Just use the little rubber grommets that came with the speaker stands, that's what I did and just now I tipped the stand at least 45 degrees and the speaker didn't move. Unless your hosting AWA in your living room the speakers will stay just fine.
Seriously, I hope you don't drive screws through the bottom of your new speakers!

^^^^^^ Second that - don't use screws in those nice new speakers!!!!!!!!!!!

Klipsch rb-61 ii get my vote.

I just found some of those pads/grippers at Walmart in the hardware dept. I think they were right with those furniture movers/sliders.

These are similar http://www.amazon.com/Super-Grip-Console-Non-Slip-Rubber/dp/B002BQVJ56

You could use some blu tack, lots of people around here use it. I know Amazon carries it.

+1 on 3 veritas v5.2's!!! I got mine this week from wwstereo and love them!!

I love love love these !! Nicest speakers I have ever owned !! The packaging was awesome and even came with gloves sound is amazing to me !! Although I came from klipsch galleries which sucked.

Hi, well not sure you've decided on something yet but I'll put in my 2c worth on speakers. I have three bookshelf speakers coming to check out and I can report back by the weekend if you want.

I have a Sony AV unit with 6.1 to test it with. New Yamaha RX-V671 in the box waiting to go in my new "Big Ass Room" aka the BAR. It is 16*36 feet with 9' ceilings.

What I've ordered is a set of Polk RTI A1, a DCM TFE60B and a set of JBL L820. The last time I did this I compared JBL, Infinity, Polk RTI28 and a few others. The infinity was the closest but the Polk won out. Lately I listened to the new Polk and the famous RTI A9 at Frye's. Both were not impressive as I expected. Maybe it was their amp/receiver setup.

They all run in the $300-350 range per set. Lowest price in order is, DCM, Polk, then JBL.

Cheers

Well after listening to the above speakers with music and movies, I've decided to go with the DCM TFE60. They appeared to me and a few others to faithfully reproduce the music. They sounded very much "real or live" and almost like they added another dimension, spacial, a fullness. My past experience with DCM was the same, which is why I wanted to audition one.

The Polk Rti A1 was a close second in reproduction but the speakers volumes weren't very well matched, ie the highs and mids were much more pronounced than lower frequencies. It also didn't sound "real" but canned/compressed or something, almost as if it were coming from a tube, very much one dimensional. I noticed this in the audio room at Fry's in Atlanta as well a few months ago.

The JBL L820 didn't produce a lot of sound compared to the other two due to ohms or just inefficient, not really sure. Even when standing two feet in front of it I could hear the other channel about as loud 6 feet to the side of it. The JBL also sounded artificial like a cheap speaker.

As far as appearances go, in order I liked the JBL, Polk then the DCM. I just don't buy speakers to look at. The DCM's are HUGE for a bookshelf speaker, about 20" deep. People commented they looked like a computer tower sitting there and that's roughly what they are shaped like. The JBL is only about 5" deep and doesn't protrude into the space when wall mounted. The Polk is about 9" deep.