AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › Subwoofers, Bass, and Transducers › Is your subwoofer / LFE HOT?
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Is your subwoofer / LFE HOT? - Page 2

Poll Results: Is your subwoofer / LFE HOT?

 
  • 69% (51)
    Yes (additional LFE trim)
  • 30% (22)
    No (reference trim)
73 Total Votes  
post #31 of 82
Can anything on this forum be considered "absolutely necessary"? If you aren't looking for feedback, suggestions or support then why post (a pretty off topic post) in another person's thread anyways? Are you simply trying to educate the rest of us? Ever ask yourself if other people aren't looking for feedback, suggestions, or support from you?

As for the OP's question, I typically run my sub at around -3db or so for movies, but about +4db for music. I run it lower because it overpowers my fronts at times during movies, but my music playback source is usually pretty laid back on the bass so I like to bump it up.
post #32 of 82
Quote:
Originally Posted by BeeMan458 View Post

Thanks but I'm not looking for feedback, suggestions or support and I've learned never to start my own thread unless absolutely necessary.
What are you afraid of?
Quote:
Originally Posted by BeeMan458 View Post

I'm simply showing what one can do when playing with a sound meter...
You're not playing with a sound meter; you're playing with REW. The sound meter is just acting as a microphone.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BeeMan458 View Post

...as it's okay to ignore Audyssey settings in the case of obtaining the 75dB, main listening position standard.
How does setting the levels with an SPL meter and a receiver's test tones improve a frequency response graph? Setting the trims is not about FR, it's about calibration.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BeeMan458 View Post

Audyssey isn't the end but instead is the beginning. Yes, a bit of human intervention with the addition of an Anti-Mode and a sound meter can and will improve a subwoofer's sonic chain.
Yes, EQ, as in the AntiMode, (not as in an "EQ Device", which is how you've previously characterized your SPL meter), can and will improve a subwoofers interaction with the room. Please explain, (in your own thread), how setting the subwoofer trim with an SPL meter and the receiver's test tones improves the sub's FR interaction with the room, (in your own thread.)

Please stop hijacking the OP's thread with this stuff. Start your own thread and give the OP back his topic.

Craig
post #33 of 82
Quote:
Originally Posted by Louquid View Post

If you aren't looking for feedback, suggestions or support then why post (a pretty off topic post) in another person's thread anyways?

It was posted in response to a comment and nothing more and actually is very germane to the topic as have you ever asked yourself, why the need to run a subwoofer hot in the first place.. If the comment offends you, I'll be happy to remove it.

Quote:
Ever ask yourself if other people aren't looking for feedback, suggestions, or support from you?

If that's the case, then like others, simply ignore what I have to post. There's a difference between not asking for feedback, suggestions or support and simply ignoring what others have to post.

Since the post you commented on, I moved my subs and did a few quick measurements. The results raise both nulls by a substantial amount. If you look at the graph I first posted, look at the left side and you'll note a "HUGE" null. By simply moving the subs location, I raised that null a full 17dB. On the right, the null was raised 15dB. Thasss a lotta dB and the volume wasn't moved a single tick.

(And why the need for everybody to try and pick a fight?)



(the gold line is after the subs were moved to a new, close-by location)

I'm not finished playing but I'm curious, how would you or anybody here like to get a free fifteen dB out of their subwoofer system with only a few minutes of time? Yes, the above graph is germane to the question regarding the need to run one's subwoofers hot as one should explore the why of the need to run their sub woofers hot, before running them hot.
post #34 of 82
Quote:
Originally Posted by craig john View Post

What are you afraid of?

Exactly what it is you're doing now.

Quote:
Please stop hijacking the OP's thread with this stuff. Start your own thread and give the OP back his topic.

There is no hijacking of the thread as in effect, properly setting one's subs up in the first place adds to the output of a sub and negates the need to run one's sub hot.
post #35 of 82
There is a difference between posting an ignorable comment and purposely derailing a thread from the OP's intended topic. I wasn't trying to be confrontational, just simply wanted you to think beyond yourself.

You're trying to expand the OP's scope here to allow your comments to be germane. Simple as that.
post #36 of 82
Quote:
Originally Posted by BeeMan458 View Post

Exactly what it is you're doing now.
rolleyes.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by BeeMan458 View Post

There is no hijacking of the thread as in effect, properly setting one's subs up in the first place adds to the output of a sub and negates the need to run one's sub hot.
Do you think the OP was looking for subwoofer placement and setup recommendations when he asked, "Is your subwoofer/LFE hot?"

This thread is not about your process of setting up your subs. If you want to talk about setting up your subs, start your own thread. I don't see what's so difficult about that.

Craig
post #37 of 82
After Audyssey MultiEQ XT (Denon 3313) ran on my single SVS PB-NSD, I nudged it warmer. It generally depends on the content, music vs. movies/games.

It also interacts somewhat with crossover values, I think. With my Aperion Verus Grands, I'm waffling between 60Hz and 80Hz. There are good qualities to each -- I think I prefer 60Hz on music with the sub running +1.0dB to maintain good volume continuity across the lower frequency range. And so far, for movies, I'm now experimenting with 80Hz crossover, and the sub running +2.5dB hot... though I am inclined to increase that further, somewhat. :-)
post #38 of 82
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrnewquist View Post

It also interacts somewhat with crossover values, I think. With my Aperion Verus Grands, I'm waffling between 60Hz and 80Hz. There are good qualities to each -- I think I prefer 60Hz on music with the sub running +1.0dB to maintain good volume continuity across the lower frequency range. And so far, for movies, I'm now experimenting with 80Hz crossover, and the sub running +2.5dB hot... though I am inclined to increase that further, somewhat. :-)

Out of curiosity, have your run a room analyzer on your room to see what's what with how your subs are responding to your rooms acoustics?
post #39 of 82
Quote:
Originally Posted by BeeMan458 View Post

Out of curiosity, have your run a room analyzer on your room to see what's what with how your subs are responding to your rooms acoustics?

No I haven't. Can you point me at a thread or FAQ which explains what's involved with taking readings, graphing them, and so forth?
post #40 of 82
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrnewquist View Post

No I haven't. Can you point me at a thread or FAQ which explains what's involved with taking readings, graphing them, and so forth?

All I can suggest is to download and get to know REW or purchase an "OmniMic" program kit.

Pretty much, a room analyzing program is the only sure way to find and correct bass stealing nulls in one's room. Based on this thread and other threads I've read, in my opinion, much of the bass bumping that goes on is an unaware effort at correcting room nulls. For what it's worth, I've spent the better part of this morning correcting for a couple of these bass stealing nulls. In the final, I've done a bang up job of mitigating these two nulls which will have the affect of bumping the subs output by six to fifteen dB in the respective nulls but the AVR and Sub gain settings are the same.

Hope the above helps.
post #41 of 82
Quote:
Originally Posted by BeeMan458 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Louquid View Post

If you aren't looking for feedback, suggestions or support then why post (a pretty off topic post) in another person's thread anyways?

It was posted in response to a comment and nothing more and actually is very germane to the topic as have you ever asked yourself, why the need to run a subwoofer hot in the first place.. If the comment offends you, I'll be happy to remove it.

Quote:
Ever ask yourself if other people aren't looking for feedback, suggestions, or support from you?

If that's the case, then like others, simply ignore what I have to post. There's a difference between not asking for feedback, suggestions or support and simply ignoring what others have to post.

Since the post you commented on, I moved my subs and did a few quick measurements. The results raise both nulls by a substantial amount. If you look at the graph I first posted, look at the left side and you'll note a "HUGE" null. By simply moving the subs location, I raised that null a full 17dB. On the right, the null was raised 15dB. Thasss a lotta dB and the volume wasn't moved a single tick.

(And why the need for everybody to try and pick a fight?)




I'm not finished playing but I'm curious, how would you or anybody here like to get a free fifteen dB out of their subwoofer system with only a few minutes of time? Yes, the above graph is germane to the question regarding the need to run one's subwoofers hot as one should explore the why of the need to run their sub woofers hot, before running them hot.

Do you even know what a null is vs a dip?

P.S. on second thought, nvm. I'll just put you on ignore and I won't have to read your "theories".
Edited by sputter1 - 1/26/13 at 1:00pm
post #42 of 82
Quote:
Originally Posted by BeeMan458 View Post

Hope the above helps.

It does, thanks! I have to think carefully about this, since my "geek rabbit hole" spidey sense is tingling.
post #43 of 82
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrnewquist View Post

It does, thanks! I have to think carefully about this, since my "geek rabbit hole" spidey sense is tingling.

LOL

And well it should. tongue.gif

As I play with both of the subs controls and subwoofer room placement, using REW to see the room's acoustics with at the main listening position, with each iteration, I'm making gains of two to six dB and all this does is encourage one to try that much more. As an example, the chest thumping resonance of thunder is in the 60Hz - 100Hz range and the lower rumblings are in the 40Hz to 50Hz range with infrasonic frequencies going below 20Hz. If one has a null in either of the audible frequency locations, they're going want to run their subs hot to compensate for this sonic hole. Having a subwoofer system where a best effort has been made to integrate the subwoofers into the room's acoustics, goes a long way in boosting the sound quality one hears and reduces the need to run one's subs, hot.

But, as you suggest, be forewarned, getting a room analyzing program such as REW, will bring the geek in one, out to play. tongue.gif
post #44 of 82
Quote:
Originally Posted by craig john View Post


Hmmm... Dolby, DTS, THX and virtually anyone else you ask. The way this works is that you calibrate the "subwoofer output", (which is NOT equivalent to the LFE channel.) The LFE channel is only PART of the subwoofer output. The bass that is re-directed to the subwoofer output from the main channels is the other PART of the subwoofer output. So, when you calibrate the subwoofer output, you are calibrating it so the whole signal is equal to the speakers at 75 dB.

The LFE channel is recorded and encoded at the same level as the rest of the channels. This done to conserve headroom. However, on playback the LFE Channel gets a 10 dB boost in the Dolby or DTS decoder. Therefore, the LFE Channel, and JUST the LFE channel, will be at 85 dB when the subwoofer output is calibrated to 75 dB.

Here's what you're missing:

The receiver's internal test tones are a noise signal with content from 40 to 80 Hz. Therefore, when you set the subwoofer trim based on the noise signal from the AVR, you are setting it on this limited bandwidth, which may not be fully representative of the entire subwoofer bandwidth.

When Audyssey sets the levels, it uses sweeps. It looks at individual frequency levels across the entire subwoofer bandwidth, at up to 8 different points in the room, and sets the levels based on the spatial average of the levels it measures at all the frequencies, at all those different points. It is a far more sophisticated level setting procedure than setting the levels based on one octave of the subwoofer bandwidth, measured at one point in space.

More importantly, when you play the AVR's test tones, Audyssey's EQ is BYPASSED; it's not in the signal path, and the effects of Audyssey's EQ are not available to be measured! If you engage Audyssey after you set the levels with the test tones and the SPL meter, the levels will be WRONG. The fact that you need to change the subwoofer trim when using the test tones and SPL meter means that, by definition, you have set them wrong.

This is the 3rd time I've explained this to you on this forum. Feel free to do whatever you want with your own system, and please enjoy it to your heart's content. However, for others reading along, it is not advised that you use a simple SPL meter and the AVR's test tones to reset the levels after running Audyssey. One of the things Audyssey does correctly is set the levels. If you want to perform a manual calibration of your speakers, then don't use Audyssey. If you do use Audyssey, don't reset the levels afterwards, (unless you want to run your subwoofer "hot", which is the subject of this thread.


Back on topic...

To answer the OP's question for myself, I use the Audyssey calibrated trim levels, and then I engage Audyssey DEQ, which increases the subwoofer levels at lower frequencies when the volume is set below Reference Level to compensate for our natural decreased hearing sensitivity at low frequencies. I use a 5 dB Ref. Level Offset, because I prefer that to the full effect of DEQ. I also engage the DSP Prgm2 on my subwoofers, Seaton Submersive HP's. That adds a slight boost at lower frequencies, starting at 40 Hz and resulting in a 3 dB boost at 19 Hz:



These two together, (DEQ + Prgm2), result in the bass being "hot" in my system, even when I listen at full Reference Level.

Craig

Wasn't there some AVRs/Pre-Pros that didn't boost the LFE channel by 10dB? I think there was a thread about it in the Audio theory set up section.
post #45 of 82
Quote:
Originally Posted by sputter1 View Post

Do you even know what a null is vs a dip?

P.S. on second thought, nvm. I'll just put you on ignore and I won't have to read your "theories".

I'll be honest I don't know what the difference is. Please do explain biggrin.gif I thought dips were able to be corrected thru EQing while nulls had more to do with placement issues or room problems?

Thanks!
-Kevin
post #46 of 82
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by craig john View Post


Hmmm... Dolby, DTS, THX and virtually anyone else you ask. The way this works is that you calibrate the "subwoofer output", (which is NOT equivalent to the LFE channel.) The LFE channel is only PART of the subwoofer output. The bass that is re-directed to the subwoofer output from the main channels is the other PART of the subwoofer output. So, when you calibrate the subwoofer output, you are calibrating it so the whole signal is equal to the speakers at 75 dB.

The LFE channel is recorded and encoded at the same level as the rest of the channels. This done to conserve headroom. However, on playback the LFE Channel gets a 10 dB boost in the Dolby or DTS decoder. Therefore, the LFE Channel, and JUST the LFE channel, will be at 85 dB when the subwoofer output is calibrated to 75 dB.

Here's what you're missing:

The receiver's internal test tones are a noise signal with content from 40 to 80 Hz. Therefore, when you set the subwoofer trim based on the noise signal from the AVR, you are setting it on this limited bandwidth, which may not be fully representative of the entire subwoofer bandwidth.

When Audyssey sets the levels, it uses sweeps. It looks at individual frequency levels across the entire subwoofer bandwidth, at up to 8 different points in the room, and sets the levels based on the spatial average of the levels it measures at all the frequencies, at all those different points. It is a far more sophisticated level setting procedure than setting the levels based on one octave of the subwoofer bandwidth, measured at one point in space.

More importantly, when you play the AVR's test tones, Audyssey's EQ is BYPASSED; it's not in the signal path, and the effects of Audyssey's EQ are not available to be measured! If you engage Audyssey after you set the levels with the test tones and the SPL meter, the levels will be WRONG. The fact that you need to change the subwoofer trim when using the test tones and SPL meter means that, by definition, you have set them wrong.

This is the 3rd time I've explained this to you on this forum. Feel free to do whatever you want with your own system, and please enjoy it to your heart's content. However, for others reading along, it is not advised that you use a simple SPL meter and the AVR's test tones to reset the levels after running Audyssey. One of the things Audyssey does correctly is set the levels. If you want to perform a manual calibration of your speakers, then don't use Audyssey. If you do use Audyssey, don't reset the levels afterwards, (unless you want to run your subwoofer "hot", which is the subject of this thread.


Back on topic...

To answer the OP's question for myself, I use the Audyssey calibrated trim levels, and then I engage Audyssey DEQ, which increases the subwoofer levels at lower frequencies when the volume is set below Reference Level to compensate for our natural decreased hearing sensitivity at low frequencies. I use a 5 dB Ref. Level Offset, because I prefer that to the full effect of DEQ. I also engage the DSP Prgm2 on my subwoofers, Seaton Submersive HP's. That adds a slight boost at lower frequencies, starting at 40 Hz and resulting in a 3 dB boost at 19 Hz:



These two together, (DEQ + Prgm2), result in the bass being "hot" in my system, even when I listen at full Reference Level.

Craig
Thanks Craig.
I've asked the same question (regarding the use of SPL meter) everywhere and got different answers. Your explanation is the best so far. Thanks for the clarification.
post #47 of 82
Excellent explanation, thanks Craig.
post #48 of 82
On the subject of hot v reference, I don't know as dont have an SPL meter to see what's going on - but Audessy has set most of my channels to -9 to -10.5 when I look at channel level settings. I leave the sub where Audessy sets it, apart from 2ch music, where I bump it up to -5.
If Audessy is going to make across the board level reductions, why not instead make smaller reductions to fewer channels?
I.e instead of LCR, SR SL, SBR SBL SW all being -9, -9.5. -10 etc, why not just -1.5 or -2 as this seems to be the differential between the channels. Soz if this is a dumb or off-topic question.
post #49 of 82
Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeyD360 View Post

On the subject of hot v reference, I don't know as dont have an SPL meter to see what's going on - but Audessy has set most of my channels to -9 to -10.5 when I look at channel level settings. I leave the sub where Audessy sets it, apart from 2ch music, where I bump it up to -5.
If Audessy is going to make across the board level reductions, why not instead make smaller reductions to fewer channels?
I.e instead of LCR, SR SL, SBR SBL SW all being -9, -9.5. -10 etc, why not just -1.5 or -2 as this seems to be the differential between the channels. Soz if this is a dumb or off-topic question.

the subwoofer gain is set too high so thats why its compensating at -9.5. If you set the sub to 75dB with a spl meter audyssey might only make a small change like -2 or such
post #50 of 82
Quote:
Originally Posted by pokekevin View Post

the subwoofer gain is set too high so thats why its compensating at -9.5. If you set the sub to 75dB with a spl meter audyssey might only make a small change like -2 or such

MikeyD360 mentioned not having a sound meter. Being a bit OCD, this is the sound meter I recently ordered.

I don't know if there's benefit to getting a sound level calibrator but I picked one of those up as well. I've been using a Radio Shack, digital sound meter and recently decided to upgrade to a calibrated sound meter with a wider dB range then the one currently being used. Overall, based on posted ratings I've read, most consumer level sound meters are in the accuracy range of +/- 1.5 - 2.0 dB. One has to spend serious money to step up to a type 1 sound meter.

Regarding questions of this type, just saying, I can't emphasize enough the importance (benefit) of properly integrating subwoofers into a Home Theater's sonic chain and how doing so changes the dynamics (volume) of a sound system and reduces the need for one to run their subs hot.

-
Edited by BeeMan458 - 1/26/13 at 6:50pm
post #51 of 82
Mean while, back at the ranch, I have been experimenting with this all week. Audyssey MultiEQ set my sub a -1.5, but I think +4 is the sweet spot to my ears. My gain is only on 1 on my Klipsch Sub10. I need to get a SP Meter.
post #52 of 82
Quote:
Originally Posted by pokekevin View Post

the subwoofer gain is set too high so thats why its compensating at -9.5. If you set the sub to 75dB with a spl meter audyssey might only make a small change like -2 or such

But it's not only the sub channel - it's all channels..?
post #53 of 82
Quote:
... Audessy has set most of my channels to -9 to -10.5 when I look at channel level settings. ... instead of LCR, SR SL, SBR SBL SW all being -9, -9.5. -10 etc, why not just -1.5 or -2 as this seems to be the differential between the channels.
Turn down the gain on the sub itself and re-run Audyssey. That should raise the sub level in the AVR closer to the levels of the other speakers.
Quote:
But it's not only the sub channel - it's all channels..?
Correct. Raising the sub level in the AVR raises the level of everything (all frequencies below x-over plus LFE) that's going to the sub.
post #54 of 82
Quote:
Originally Posted by eljaycanuck View Post

Turn down the gain on the sub itself and re-run Audyssey. That should raise the sub level in the AVR closer to the levels of the other speakers.
Correct. Raising the sub level in the AVR raises the level of everything (all frequencies below x-over plus LFE) that's going to the sub.

In my case, the subs were set to +/- 0 and all the rest of the speaker channels were lowered to -9 through -11.5. What's with that?
post #55 of 82
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BeeMan458 View Post

In my case, the subs were set to +/- 0 and all the rest of the speaker channels were lowered to -9 through -11.5. What's with that?
I think the speaker has high sensitivity (Klipsch, JTR, CHT, etc). If you get -12dB, an attenuator is needed.
post #56 of 82
Thanks to Skylinestar for pointing me to this thread. Back to the hit issue. I have been re-setting up my system again. Re ran audyssey and starting to enjoy movies again. Noticed the low freq blend in well but missing the smile factor. Started to look for a better sub and then read that some users run a few dB hot on the sub channel.

Just set +2dB and this put a huge smile on my face. Some scenes in Thor and Phantom Menace was seat shaking. Pretty awesome. I always ran the system and took pride that it was well calibrated. But lately wanted to crank up the movies and get some room rattling. +2dB did that for me without needing to buy a better sub. Glad to have saved some money here.

I was afraid it would be too boomy but its not. Blend is still smooth. Who knows if its due to freq dip in the particular room or not. End result = awesome movies again.

Sub plays well down to 29hz or so then rolls off fast. What good scenes should I play to get more smiles? Scenes and not movies please, only looking to play a few minutes for some quick happiness. smile.gif
post #57 of 82
Thread Starter 
@ bowmah
Play Cloverfield...start from time 19:50 ...watch for 3 minutes.
post #58 of 82
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skylinestar View Post

I think the speaker has high sensitivity (Klipsch, JTR, CHT, etc). If you get -12dB, an attenuator is needed.

Makes sense. I don't like it but your above makes sense. Based on your above, it reads as if the makers of Audyssey need to make according adjustments to allow for speaker systems that have high speaker sensitivity. Our "Klipsch" mains and center channel have a sensitivity of 100dB for the mains and 99dB for the center channel.
post #59 of 82
Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeyD360 View Post

On the subject of hot v reference, I don't know as dont have an SPL meter to see what's going on - but Audessy has set most of my channels to -9 to -10.5 when I look at channel level settings. I leave the sub where Audessy sets it, apart from 2ch music, where I bump it up to -5.
If Audessy is going to make across the board level reductions, why not instead make smaller reductions to fewer channels?
I.e instead of LCR, SR SL, SBR SBL SW all being -9, -9.5. -10 etc, why not just -1.5 or -2 as this seems to be the differential between the channels. Soz if this is a dumb or off-topic question.
There are 2 things at work here, Reference Level Calibration and the sensitivity, (efficiency) of of your speakers. Let's start with sensitivity.

Sensitivity is measured in an anechoic chamber by sending the speaker a 1 watt signal and measuring the SPL output 1 meter away from the speaker. Some speakers can take 1 watt of input and produce 95 or more dB of output. Others may take that same 1 watt and only produce 85 dB. That 10 dB difference is perceived to be twice as loud, but it requires more than 8X as much power to drive an 85 dB sensitivity speaker as it does to drive a 95 dB sensitivity speaker.

Calibration of the speakers/subwoofer(s) system is intended to ensure that all the speakers produce the same level at the listening position when they are sent the same input signal. You don't want the L/R speakers outputting higher than the CC and surrounds, or you won't hear the CC and surrounds in proper balance. You want them all at the same level so the sounds will be heard as the mixer intended you to hear them.

Audyssey's Reference Level Calibration is intended to set the levels such that, when the speaker is sent a "Full Scale" signal, the speaker puts out 105 dB with the Master Volume Control at "0". This is the reference standard calibration for a digital recording. However, if you used a 105 dB test signal for calibration, it would be extremely loud, you would need ear plugs to perform it. Some speakers can't even handle this loud of a signal. Therefore, they instead use a signal meant to be set at 75 dB. This is refereed to as a -30 dBFS signal, or 30 dB below Full Scale, (105 - 30 = 75). The speaker trims are then set so the SPL measured at the listening position is 75 dB.

To tie this all together... if you have high sensitivity speakers, in order to get the SPL to measure 75 dB at the LP, the trim needs to be turned down to a negative number. The higher the sensitivity of the speakers, the lower the trim setting. The lower the sensitivity of the speakers, the higher the trim setting. So, when Audyssey sets your speakers to -9 or -10, that just means you have fairly high sensitivity speakers.

You can change the trim settings if you like, as long as you change them all by the same amount to keep them all calibrated relative to each other. The only thing it will change is the setting of Reference Level on the Master Volume Control. If you don't care where the MVC needs to be set to output RL, then feel free to change them. However, just realize that there is no difference between the speakers trims set at -10 with the MVC set at 0, and the speaker trim set at 0 and the MVC set at -10. They'll both result in the same output. IOW, there is no benefit to changing them; it only changes the position of RL on the MVC.

In terms of the subwoofer trim, that is additionally affected by the level setting on the subwoofer amplifier. If the sub amp level setting is low, Audyssey will set a higher subwoofer trim to compensate. If it's too high, and the trim setting is at the end of the range, (i.e, if the range is -12 to +12 and the subwoofer is trim is set to +12, then you need to raise the sub amp's level setting and rerun Audyssey so it can set a trim level that is in range. Similarly, if it's set too low, (i.e, -12), you'll need to turn the sub amp down and rerun Audyssey so it can set a higher trim.

Hope that helps.

Craig
post #60 of 82
Quote:
Originally Posted by BeeMan458 View Post

In my case, the subs were set to +/- 0 and all the rest of the speaker channels were lowered to -9 through -11.5. What's with that?
See the post above this one.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › Subwoofers, Bass, and Transducers › Is your subwoofer / LFE HOT?