And as a result I presume it sounds horrible.
Hi and welcome to the thread. I'm sure someone with W8 64bit will chime in. I have W7 64bit and REW beta 5 works just fine with that so I would imagine it will be good with your Windows version too.
Sorry I can't give you a definitive answer - just wanted to welcome you.
Just turn the volume down. You're still calibrated, it's just that there's a peak somewhere that goes over the headroom.
Fear not, you're heading in the right direction.
BTW, there are "average" calibration files for the EMM-6 on HTS, and you should be able to download a calibration file using your serial number from dayton, which should be even better.
You want to calibrate the subs as a pair (the way they will be heard). If you are using two subs in a Y-cable config, then ideally the subs should be identical and located at the same distance from the MLP. This will allow you to use the sub distance trim setting to adjust the distance to get the best possible splice at the chosen crossover.
It would also help to gain match them before doing anything else. You need to use the mic in the way it was calibrated - so if the cal file is for a 90 degree orientation, use it that way. It is for a horizontal orientation use it that way. It probably won’t make a deal of difference for the subs - the mic being omnidirectional and the subs being the same. You will be able to use the UMIK-1 mic for sweeps of the whole system but it will need to be pointing up at the ceiling. If there is no cal file for it to be used like that, then you will have to run it uncalibrated. It won't give you such an accurate result but it will probably be good enough. (The UMM-6 when calibrated by Cross Spectrum Labs comes with various cal files to cater for all normal requirements). BTW, I live in the EU too but I still use a UMM-6 - Herb is happy to ship internationally.
When you say you want to 'calibrate' the subs, I assume you mean you want to apply some form of EQ to them via the mini-DSP. It is possible to calibrate two subs individually, but it is much more difficult.
The only response that matters is the combined response of both subs working together - IOW the response you will hear. If you EQ Sub 1 to give a flat response and then EQ Sub 2 to give a flat response, when you combine them and measure, you will see that you almost certainly no longer have a flat response. You would need to create the filters for Sub 1 then measure Subs 1 & 2 playing together, then create filters for Sub 2 and then measure Subs 1 & 2 playing together and rinse and repeat until the combined respons is flat. This could take a huge amount of time and may never actually yield a flat response for the pair of subs playing together.
I am about to EQ two identical subs and have already decided to go the much simpler route of EQ-ing them as a pair. This is the way Audyssey does it, for example, and if it's good enough for Audyssey it's good enough for me ;) I will measure the in-room response of the subs playing together then put the resulting graph through REW's EQ section and adjust until I am happy I have achieved a suitably flat response. There are several ways to skin that cat and your aim is to use the smallest number of filters you can to get the job done, preferably cutting rather than boosting wherever possible and manually adjusting the REW calculated filter set - removing those with very small bandwidths (less than 4 say) and those that make very little difference to the curve (say +/- 3dB or +/-2dB if you are really keen). When I have a curve and filter set I am happy with, REW will upload it to my Behringer 1214P PEQ and then I will measure the result and compare it with REW's predicted result. I expect it to deviate ;) Then back to REW, make some more adjustments and try again until the response is as flat as I can get it. One benefit of the Behringer is that it has 10 presets so I can create up to 10 candidate filter sets in REW and upload them and then simply switch between them while measuring to see which is best. Probably the mini-DSP allows something similar?
Good luck and do report back how you get on, The EQ feature in REW is potentially one of its most useful features IMO.
No. I am using the dual sub outlets into the 2 Behringer channels and then out to the subs. It is the normal setup IOW with the Behringer 'in between'. I can still adjust levels and trims independently, post EQ, just as I can with Audyssey, post-EQ.The delays and trims will be applied before the Behringer, but so what? If you believe that adjusting trims and levels before the EQ will affect the EQ slightly, I can see that, but it is then just more trial and error and measuring to get the best compromise. Changing trims and delays post-Audyssey is normal practice and doesn't throw off the Audyssey calibration - but we don't know if the adjustments are made before the EQ or if the EQ is made before the adjustments. I suspect the EQ comes first because it is part of the Audyssey 'routine' to set the distances and delays but I am theorising. I don't think it matters that much - the result of the PEQ is likely to be much more dramatic.
All understood. This is pioneer territory so it's all going to be suck it and see I think. I think you can assist the splice by getting the subs' response flatter. The closer both the speakers and the subs are to flat (or falling at the correct slope is perhaps more accurate) at the XO region, the better the splice should be. I think :)
The curve editor is OK if one has no other means of EQ-ing Post Audyssey but it is so primitive that I think its usefulness is limited. Better than no post-Audyssey EQ at all I guess.
Ignore my suggestion for gain matching then as the subs are quite different to each other. Your method sounds fine to me, using the mini-DSP. If you EQ the subs separately to get them flat and then EQ them together as a pair, I'm not quite sure what that would achieve - but it's easy to do so why not try it and see? Please report back!
I usually phone Customs as soon as I know the package is in their hands (from the Fedex etc tracking info) and ask if I can pay the duty there and then. That usually works here.
You've checked that the Levels in Windows are set to 100? Have you checkled that the devices are active in the ASIO Control Panel?