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Samsung F8000 -- 2013 Flagship Models - Page 93

post #2761 of 3645
So my girlfriend came over tonight and we watched her show she makes me dvr for her. She said she noticed some soap opera effect on it and asked me to turn off the motion plus. It was a show on the CW network so I guess I'm not too sensitive to it. She also said she noticed it on HBO when I turned it back on and we where watching some news documentary program on it, I again turned it off for her. When we watched some CBS later she didn't notice it and I had back on with the custom setting of 10 blur 0 judder. I agree we should let Samsung know about this problem.

As for the film mode yea if it's a 1080i or 480i signal it was on but not on when I put on a 720p or 1080p source. I only tried one blu ray just a little while ago to check if it would go on. It was Batman Begins on Blu Ray off of my PS3 and it didn't, film mode was off and grayed out. I'm going to check the settings on my PS3 and make sure it's set to send the signal out at 24p for blu rays. I think film mode is supposed to come on for 24p but I could be wrong. I don't really understand that mode that much. The movie looked really good to me so I'm still happy.


I had it in movie mode with warm2 and smart led on standard. I had dynamic contrast and black tone off. Hdmi light level set to low as well. I was happy with the black levels and didn't notice or wasn't bothered by the auto dimming. I watched about half the movie and again was really impressed with the picture. I did turn off AMP as I don't use that when watching blu ray movies.
post #2762 of 3645
Quote:
Originally Posted by RedGrant View Post

Don't know if I use all the techical terms correct, but it can be described in a simple way as follow: white, black or the greyscale in between can be displayed by the same amount of red, green an blue. So black is RGB 0 0 0, white is RGB 255 255 255.

By increasing the contrast the output levels of red, green and blue are increased. At a certain contrast level the increase of the output level of one of the colors isn't lineair anymore, due to technical limitations. For the F8000 blue is "clipping" so causing the white becoming pink. There's more red then blue output.

So put contrast on a level where there's no color casting in the whites.

Here's as good a description as any, quoting zoyd:

"The only tint you can detect is in reference to the white that is the brightest shade of gray on the screen.

That's why when red clips and the brightest white goes blue, your eye tells you all the lower swatches just turned pinkish.

Your eye can be sensitive to see if the grayscale is consistent, but it doesn't have a clue what the whitepoint is."
post #2763 of 3645
Quote:
Originally Posted by RedGrant View Post

Don't know if I use all the techical terms correct, but it can be described in a simple way as follow: white, black or the greyscale in between can be displayed by the same amount of red, green an blue. So black is RGB 0 0 0, white is RGB 255 255 255.

By increasing the contrast the output levels of red, green and blue are increased. At a certain contrast level the increase of the output level of one of the colors isn't lineair anymore, due to technical limitations. For the F8000 blue is "clipping" so causing the white becoming pink. There's more red then blue output.

So put contrast on a level where there's no color casting in the whites.

Interesting. Thank you for this information. So then ideally I would want to increase my contrast until just before the stars start turning pink then?

What's interesting is that this wasn't happening last year on my ES7500, at least I don't remember it doing that. I could have contrast on 95 and the stars were still greyish. Is this to be expected with all F8000 sets or could this clipping be different on a different panel? If I left contrast at say 95 then, does this mean that bright whites would have a pinkish color cast?
Edited by eagle_2 - 4/27/13 at 8:21am
post #2764 of 3645
"So with all that stuff off, how are the blacks/contrast?"

I have every stinking on the fly processing feature turned off and the blacks in the picture look great to me. Yes, the black bars around a cropped picture can be, but not always, a little lighter grey. But I don't have the adverse effects already described when the on the fly processing stuff is on. I have exceptional picture detail. The amount of black shadow detail can be adjusted by settings other than the on the fly processing.

All the black/white/grey adjustment screens on WOW, DVE, and AVS 709 look ok.

But others may be bothered by the look of the non-playing black areas around the playing picture. I'm not. The exceptional picture detail and lack of other problems like banding and clouding far outweigh the sometimes grey appearance of the non playing areas for me.

edit: For instance, I watched the new True Grit last night. In the night scenes at the end of the movie in which the girl is being carried, the bars above and below the playing screen were dark grey, but the sky looked black and the stars were distinct bright spots with no halos. the shadow details in the figures were excellent. I've previously posted about how good Holmes and Planet Earth look. YMMV
Edited by flyboy2160 - 4/27/13 at 8:31am
post #2765 of 3645
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben818 View Post

Ok I had today off and I have been using the TV with all kinds of different sources and channels. I had it on the original firmware and I didn't update as well as turned off auto updates however it updated from 1014 to 1015 anyway, not happy about that as it shouldn't have done that but oh well. I have noticed what Eagle has said about the Auto Motion Plus and the problems it has when it is in custom with blur on 10 and judder on 0. It has problems with really bad stuttering and judder on an ABC original show I DVRD last night. I had to turn AMP off or put it on clear to make it watchable for me, clear had the soap opera effect and it also had the soap opera effect on custom on that channel and show. However when I watched CBS no problems on AMP on custom as well as Showtime while watching an original show not a movie. I then watched a FOX show on DVR and I didn't really notice anything on custom with that show except a little soap opera effect for about a second here and there and perhaps one or two judders but that could have been the box and a signal problem as it only happened about 2 or 3 times that I noticed. I then watched a show from the DVR that's from the CW network my girlfriend makes me record for her for about 20 minutes, all I could stand, and again it was fine. It seems that it didn't matter for Blue Rays playing off my ps3 on custom no problems. I will try some regular DVDS later and if I notice anything I will let you know. I also used Netflix on my ps3 as well as directly from the TV's app and I didn't have any problems with the movie or show I tried for a little while on both. I haven't played any games yet, will do that maybe tonight or tomorrow, gonna move the XBOX back in here and try out some BLOBS 2 on game mode and see if I think it's playable or not. I will also try to use PC mode and see if I see any difference. So Eagle you are correct about AMP on custom having some kind of problem with certain sources. I have Time Warner Cable and Have a HD DVR Box. I also tried some On Demand for HBO for one of there shows no problem at all with the AMP. It is still a fantastic TV for me and even if they never fix this problem I am still satisfied with it. I have not really noticed any problems with the dimming like you have Eagle but again I might not be as sensitive to it as you. Again I have smart led on low and have not turned on dynamic contrast. I have one other thing maybe you or someone else could help me out with. Film mode is always grayed out for me even when I put in blu rays. It wasn't last night for about a minute and it was on auto 2, I don't remember what I was watching, but now it's just grayed out and off, any reason for that?

Film mode is only available and needed for interlaced sources. If your source is 1080p, it will be grayed out.
post #2766 of 3645
Quote:
Originally Posted by eagle_2 View Post

Seems like a small cluster maybe but it's hard to tell. I plan on staying home this weekend and just watching movies, so hopefully I'll have a better idea by the end of the weekend how this set holds up. If I like how things look, then I'll call up Best Buy and set up a swap.

Yeah, not sure why some settings are disabled for some modes. I think Samsung stays up late at night just thinking of ways to be frustrating for their customers.

Does anybody happen to know why the stars on the white clipping pattern on the WOW disc appear pink at higher contrast settings (85-100)? And why even at 100 all the stars are visible, even the whiter than white ones? Is this normal? The stars stay gray until contrast is up near max, then they turn pink. Has me worried about color. Same thing happens with the AVS disc white clipping pattern.

I tend to like natural flesh tones personally, and never liked the warm2 setting since it always seemed too warm and yellowish to me. Last year I would sway between normal and warm1. Right now I've got the basic settings Buzzard posted, and that includes warm2. I figured I'd give warm2 a try and see if I can adjust to the color since it seems to be the recommended setting. I do have color saturation dialed back a bit more though, since I don't like my saturation dialed up too high.

I'll be sure to post any observations I happen to make over the weekend, and if I think I find anything helpful, I'll be sure to share it. I think we'll all be helping each other out with tips for a while with this set. With Samsung it's always a learning experience..

You don't want whites to clip. Whiter than white is valid picture information.

Pink whites aren't good. Are you in Movie or Standard? I found on the ES8000 I had that whites had a bad pink push on Standard.
post #2767 of 3645
Quote:
Originally Posted by moonhawk View Post

So film mode doesn't work with Blu-rays?

That makes no sense at all. Something else must be going on.

The "Film Mode" feature sets the deinterlacing mode. It's only for interlaced content. You don't need deinterlacing for Blu-ray, you should be outputting 1080p24 to your Samsung.
post #2768 of 3645
Quote:
Originally Posted by eagle_2 View Post

Well, to be honest, I'm not really blown away by the blacks so far. Take the CinemaScope bars for example. I wish they could be blacker. I wish they could look like they do when I enable Cinema Black, but I don't like how Cinema Black affects the actual film portion of the screen, so I don't think I'll ever use it. I'll be watching some films this weekend so hopefully I'll get a better idea of how this thing looks with real blu-ray content on it.

I wasn't blown away by the blacks last year either, but at least this year the set in general seems like an improvement. I'm not sure that blacks improved any though. Of course this is just using my eyes - I have no calibration equipment, and I'm no expert in any of this.

eagle, I think you should sit back and try watching the TV with Smart LED on Low for a few days. It's the only way you will get decent blacks with this set, and you may grow to like how it works. You won't know without trying it out for a few days.
post #2769 of 3645

There is always a point where grayscale becomes unlinear. That is always been normal. Find the sweet contrast range and stick to it.

Also having the grayscale done correctly is optimizing the RGB output  linear range maximized for a given color temp.

At the low & high end of brightness range it is hard to get all three colors withing the desired level.

post #2770 of 3645
Quote:
Originally Posted by sharkcohen View Post

You don't want whites to clip. Whiter than white is valid picture information.

Pink whites aren't good. Are you in Movie or Standard? I found on the ES8000 I had that whites had a bad pink push on Standard.


Yes ,

Me too , is there any work-around for a pink-push ?

Thanks , in advance smile.gif

______________________________________________

Yes , anything past 255 ( or 256 ) is beyond white . anything less than 0 is beyond < black.

_____________________________________________________________________________

Just a Bluetooth note :

I was told by Samsung " yes , you can turn a bluetooth device on or off " , well they were wrong , you can not !
Once paired , that is it , no way to delete or turn off , you must do a reset frown.gif

Thanks , for the WRONG info , Samsung frown.gif

________________________________________________________________________________________

Still same old same old with my F8000 , I am trying to hard too soon I think ! confused.gif

________________________________________________________________________

Question , and advice / help :

Does anyone know the model number of a Samsung remote ( standard ) that will work with the F8000 ?

Again , thanks in advance smile.gif

_____________________________________________________________________________________

On a side note , a bluetooth keyboard will work as a remote ! ( at least an Apple one does ) .

You just need to figure out what keys do what eek.gif I.E. Apple key will bring up the menu / then use the arrow keys to navigate.

Ok , thats it for now , later biggrin.gif

Gary 
post #2771 of 3645
post #2772 of 3645
Is there a reason they use a glossy finish on the high end sets? A glossy finish reflects so much more than a matte finish so I'm assuming there must be major benefits. Although it doesn't happen often, when the TV goes to a dark scene, I'm able to see myself on my couch in the TV. Admittedly I have to look for it, but if I do, there I am. Assume this happens to others and there's nothing that can be done about it?
post #2773 of 3645
Quote:
Originally Posted by flyboy2160 View Post

"So with all that stuff off, how are the blacks/contrast?"


All the black/white/grey adjustment screens on WOW, DVE, and AVS 709 look ok.

But others may be bothered by the look of the non-playing black areas around the playing picture. I'm not. The exceptional picture detail and lack of other problems like banding and clouding far outweigh the sometimes grey appearance of the non playing areas for me.

On my old DLP, the "black" bars could light up the room by themselves, so that sounds pretty good to me... cool.gif
post #2774 of 3645
Quote:
Originally Posted by sharkcohen View Post

The "Film Mode" feature sets the deinterlacing mode. It's only for interlaced content. You don't need deinterlacing for Blu-ray, you should be outputting 1080p24 to your Samsung.

Right... my bad.

I was confusing Movie Mode with Film Mode. I don't think my DLP has film mode, so I'm not familiar with it...

Thanks, everyone, for the clarification. smile.gif
post #2775 of 3645
Moonhawk, you may have film option buried in pic settings in movie and standard modes of your dlp. My buddies samsung dlp had a very layered menu compared to what we see now if i remember correctly.
post #2776 of 3645
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bladerunner1959 View Post

Moonhawk, you may have film option buried in pic settings in movie and standard modes of your dlp. My buddies samsung dlp had a very layered menu compared to what we see now if i remember correctly.

Thanks--I'll check. cool.gif
post #2777 of 3645
Just got my TV turned on today. Will have to play around with the settings and also do some checking for stuck/dead pixels

- What's the best way to verify pixels are all good?
- Is it correct that the TV does NOT come with the "standard" remote and only the new super modern yet useless one?
- Maybe it's my PC, but I'm finding that despite 3D auto being on, when I play 3D content from computer it does NOT switch to 3D mode automatically... even more annoying that not all 3D content is in same format and the TV seems to force you to pick a mode?
- I haven't tried yet but... with such a minimal bezel, how does the TV receive IR signal? I don't see the receiver anywhere?
Edited by kaitlyn2004 - 4/27/13 at 6:59pm
post #2778 of 3645
Quote:
Originally Posted by jedi29 View Post

Question , and advice / help :

Does anyone know the model number of a Samsung remote ( standard ) that will work with the F8000 ?

Again , thanks in advance smile.gif

The Samsung AA59-0058A ES series universal remote.
post #2779 of 3645
Hi Guy`s ,

HELP !!!


I`m having a few issues tonight , 1st , dvd Pioneer DV-79AVi played sound via HDMI yesterday , and I had to reset my F8000 , and now I can`t get any sound from the tv using my dvd player.
I get sound through my DSP-A1/G , but not to the F8000 via HDMI.

Issue 2: I was have a lot of floating tints using my Mac Mini , so I checked that settings and there was only the standard and a new one called Entertain. It is in the manual on page 89 , that using a computer will allow for only 2 , so why did I have 4 settings yesterday ?

I don`t know , I think Samsung is out to get me too.

Thanks again for your help , I have no idea where this road will led. eek.gif

Later smile.gif

Gary 



PS: Have done many reset`s , too many frown.gif

2nd PS :

Have done another reset , and now I have all 4 picture modes to my Mac Mini , which is hooked up via HDMI only NOT A DVI connection as described on page 89 of the manual.

Yes , I do understand that if you hook up a computer via DVI by way of a VGA adapter , then yes I can see it , but not straight HDMI , I have a 2010 MM and it has an HDMI out !

Just a little peeved tonight , I`ll be fine , however I can not say the same for the F8000 at the present time.

May have to get "Crazy Horse" involved with the fix.

Trust me , you don`t want to know who " Crazy Horse " is ! wink.gif , but I can say it was born in 1911.

3rd PS; ( and last for tonight )

Now I must scan for what few in-the-clear channels I can get from Comcast frown.gif
post #2780 of 3645
Anyone else having a lot of judder on this set? Looked at it several different places and I this juddering on blue rays like nuts.
post #2781 of 3645
The judder and reports of lag from ps3 has really steered me off. I ordered a plasma vt60 today. My first plasma set. Im still debating the 46 in though. I have 2 months to figure it all out lol.
post #2782 of 3645
Quote:
Originally Posted by sharkcohen View Post

eagle, I think you should sit back and try watching the TV with Smart LED on Low for a few days. It's the only way you will get decent blacks with this set, and you may grow to like how it works. You won't know without trying it out for a few days.

This is what I worry about. I am underwhelmed by the blacks on this set, especially when it comes to the CinemaScope letterbox bars. But I really can't stand auto-dimming, and the SMART-LED setting introduces auto-dimming.

I spent months last year wanting to smash my ES7500 screen because I hated the auto-dimming, and I finally have the ability this year to virtually eliminate it from both standard and movie modes. That alone is like a gift for me. I can't image I would ever want to bring that auto-dimming back. Just from early testing I could see how dramatic the auto-dimming is when SMART-LED is enabled, even on low.

If it wasn't for the way the screen auto-dims with it enabled, I might consider giving it a try. The way it's currently functioning, I really don't think I want that enabled.
post #2783 of 3645
Quote:
Originally Posted by sharkcohen View Post

You don't want whites to clip. Whiter than white is valid picture information.

Pink whites aren't good. Are you in Movie or Standard? I found on the ES8000 I had that whites had a bad pink push on Standard.


In movie mode, 88 is the max I can go with contrast before the stars in the WOW disc or the bars in the AVS disc start to turn pink.

In standard mode, the highest I can go with contrast is 78! Anything higher than 78 in standard mode starts turning pink. Is this right? It doesn't seem to be, and last year I could crank the contrast up to 95 or even 100 and not turn pink.
post #2784 of 3645
Quote:
Originally Posted by jedi29 View Post


Just a Bluetooth note :

I was told by Samsung " yes , you can turn a bluetooth device on or off " , well they were wrong , you can not !
Once paired , that is it , no way to delete or turn off , you must do a reset frown.gif

Thanks , for the WRONG info , Samsung frown.gif

Get used to getting the wrong info from Samsung. They know nothing about their own products, and my experiences with them over the last 2 years has shown me they are totally ignorant about their products.
post #2785 of 3645
Quote:
Originally Posted by jedi29 View Post

Hi Guy`s ,

Here is a link to a remote for your Samsung tv`s :

http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-BN59-01041A-Remote-Control/dp/B003LR5HRK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1367098030&sr=8-2&keywords=Samsung+remote

Later smile.gif

G. 

Thanks for the link. I looked at images the other day for the remote control that came with both the D8000 and ES8000.

The D8000 came with the remote model # AA59-00431A

The ES8000 came with the remote model # AA59-00638A

Both of those had a specific "3D" button. Unfortunately, the remote you linked to above is a different remote model #, and doesn't have the "3D" button. My guess would be the remote could still work with the F8000, but I find the "3D" button very useful to switch immediately into 3D mode and back without digging through the menu system constantly.

One other benefit the D8000 remote had over the ES8000 remote was that the D8000 remote had a "P-Size" button for switching aspect ratios (picture size) without going through the menus The ES8000 got rid of that button on favor of the "Family Story" button which does nothing this year anyways since they got rid of that silly feature. So the D8000 remote has both the 3D button and P-Size button. The ES8000 remote has the 3D button but not P-Size.

I wish I could find the D8000 or ES8000 remote for a reasonable price if I decide to keep the set. Samsung charges over $40 for the ES8000 remote, plus shipping. Ridiculous.
post #2786 of 3645
Quote:
Originally Posted by RMSko View Post

Is there a reason they use a glossy finish on the high end sets? A glossy finish reflects so much more than a matte finish so I'm assuming there must be major benefits. Although it doesn't happen often, when the TV goes to a dark scene, I'm able to see myself on my couch in the TV. Admittedly I have to look for it, but if I do, there I am. Assume this happens to others and there's nothing that can be done about it?

I find glossy panels look far better than matte. Even my PC monitor, which is a glossy 16:10 HP panel, looks far better than my older matte 4:3 Viewsonic sitting right next to it. Remember that before these HDTV flat panels, all CRT screens were glass and were very reflective. It's been that way for decades.
post #2787 of 3645
Quote:
Originally Posted by eagle_2 View Post

I find glossy panels look far better than matte. Even my PC monitor, which is a glossy 16:10 HP panel, looks far better than my older matte 4:3 Viewsonic sitting right next to it. Remember that before these HDTV flat panels, all CRT screens were glass and were very reflective. It's been that way for decades.
I agree that cosmetically it def looks better, but aren't the reflections bothersome (or does it just take getting used to)?
post #2788 of 3645
Quote:
Originally Posted by kaitlyn2004 View Post

Just got my TV turned on today. Will have to play around with the settings and also do some checking for stuck/dead pixels

- What's the best way to verify pixels are all good?
- Is it correct that the TV does NOT come with the "standard" remote and only the new super modern yet useless one?
- Maybe it's my PC, but I'm finding that despite 3D auto being on, when I play 3D content from computer it does NOT switch to 3D mode automatically... even more annoying that not all 3D content is in same format and the TV seems to force you to pick a mode?
- I haven't tried yet but... with such a minimal bezel, how does the TV receive IR signal? I don't see the receiver anywhere?

- To check for stuck or dead pixels, you can use any solid color image, like a plasma break-in slide. Basically any 1920x1080 solid image. It's best to use a number of colors, like red, green, blue, greyscale, etc.

- Yes, it does not come with the standard remote. You must buy that separate now from either Samsung (note my comments above about the remotes) or from a third party seller if you can find any (Ebay or Amazon maybe)? The set only comes with the mostly useless touch remote (it does work well for what it is really, but I would highly recommend getting the standard remote).

- The way the tv detects 3D is through a flag that is carried along with the signal. Blu-rays send a flag that triggers 3D sets to go into 3D mode. If you have 3D detection on then the tv will switch into 3D automatically. I believe the set may also detect side-by-side content, but I don't think it always works on all videos. I have played some side-by-side videos and the 3D automatically switches over when it sees side-by-side, and other times it doesn't, and I have to manually hit the 3D button.

- I thought the tv used bluetooth for the remote. But then since the tv can use the standard remote too, then I'm not sure where the receiver is. More Samsung magic!
Edited by eagle_2 - 4/28/13 at 6:18am
post #2789 of 3645
Quote:
Originally Posted by RMSko View Post

I agree that cosmetically it def looks better, but aren't the reflections bothersome (or does it just take getting used to)?

Well, I do have to turn my LED clock on my table when I watch the tv, or else I clearly see it on the screen. So yeah, it does take a bit of getting used to if you're used to a matte screen. I'm glad they went with glossy though. I find the reflections are very minimal and can be easily ignored once you get used to it. LED clocks and lamps are really the only things that seem to be noticeable, and as long as I turn my lamp off and turn the clock when viewing, I have no issues with the reflections.
post #2790 of 3645
Quote:
Originally Posted by jedi29 View Post

Hi Guy`s ,

HELP !!!


I`m having a few issues tonight , 1st , dvd Pioneer DV-79AVi played sound via HDMI yesterday , and I had to reset my F8000 , and now I can`t get any sound from the tv using my dvd player.
I get sound through my DSP-A1/G , but not to the F8000 via HDMI.

Issue 2: I was have a lot of floating tints using my Mac Mini , so I checked that settings and there was only the standard and a new one called Entertain. It is in the manual on page 89 , that using a computer will allow for only 2 , so why did I have 4 settings yesterday ?

I don`t know , I think Samsung is out to get me too.

Thanks again for your help , I have no idea where this road will led. eek.gif

Later smile.gif

Gary 



PS: Have done many reset`s , too many frown.gif

2nd PS :

Have done another reset , and now I have all 4 picture modes to my Mac Mini , which is hooked up via HDMI only NOT A DVI connection as described on page 89 of the manual.

Yes , I do understand that if you hook up a computer via DVI by way of a VGA adapter , then yes I can see it , but not straight HDMI , I have a 2010 MM and it has an HDMI out !

Just a little peeved tonight , I`ll be fine , however I can not say the same for the F8000 at the present time.

May have to get "Crazy Horse" involved with the fix.

Trust me , you don`t want to know who " Crazy Horse " is ! wink.gif , but I can say it was born in 1911.

3rd PS; ( and last for tonight )

Now I must scan for what few in-the-clear channels I can get from Comcast frown.gif

What I've noticed when trying gaming with the F8000 through my PC via HDMI, is that if I have the PC set to output 1080p, then the tv doesn't go into PC mode automatically. I still have all my picture modes available. I have to manually select PC mode from the "edit name" sub-menu of the sources tool menu. But, if I start gaming and play in a resolution other than 1920x1080, then as the game switches resolution, the tv automatically goes into PC mode, which then gives me the standard and entertain picture modes only. So I think that when the tv sees 1920x1080, it stays in regular mode until you manually go into PC mode, but a resolution change to another PC resolution switches to PC mode automatically. That's what I've observed at least, so far.
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