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Greedo's Cantina - Page 5

post #121 of 168
Thread Starter 
Got my first wall framed. It's the longest wall in the basement, but I still had to build it stick style since I had no help today, plus the height varies just a bit across the span. The only issue that slowed me down was my nailer. It consistently left the nails proud about 1/4", even with the depth setting maxed out. The compressor was at the right pressure for the gun (just a hair under the max of 120 psi). So I had to drive most of the nails in afterwords. I'm using 3" nails, but this is the first time I've framed anything, so I won't be surprised if I'm doing something wrong.

Here's the pics as proof:

I think that It'll take me another two weeks to frame since She Who Must Be Obeyed isn't really fond of nailguns after dinner.
post #122 of 168

I also did not use acoustical sealant in my subfloor double dw with gg treatment. I think the point is to add damped layers of mass so the footfall instead of creating some sort of airtight barrier.

I have metal ductwork in the ceiling joists too. But none of it is connected to the theater. All outside of the shell and I did not change it to flex duct. But you mentioned that when you switched it out you put double dw with gg up there and I would say the exercise was worth it just for that. As long as the rooms upstairs are still comfortable with the extra resistance given by the flex duct. I took down all of my metal ductwork so I could do the subfloor stuff and then replaced it.

I don't know anything about nail guns but I assume you have to use 3" nails for your framing and that the gun is rated for that length?

I feel your pain about making noise after dinner. This just validates my decision to soundproof even more. Just wait till you start to use impact
Type guns on the ceiling. That will get her going.

Another thing I noticed was that you said you could barely hear the footfalls afterwards. I did notice a difference but it was not as dramatic as that. But now that I think about it you did say you had girls. Maybe the difference is that I have boys running Around up there like wild banshees! Is the floor above you a wood floor?

Keep up the good work

post #123 of 168
Thread Starter 
Thanks for checking in, Grant.

Yeah, the duct decision was driven 50-50 by really wanting to get the drywall in the joist cavity, as well as any eliminating any chance of noise infiltration. The room above is carpeted, so that helps absorb a lot the foot traffic sounds. We plan on switching it to hardwood in a few years, so I'll have to add something to dampen it (underneath the hardwood).

The nailer uses 3" nails, and that's what I'm shooting. It's not a big deal to pound the heads in, but it is just a nagging concern.
post #124 of 168
Yeah I bet the carpet is the difference then. Kind of glad to hear that because I was starting to wonder if I did something wrong. Some reading on thesoundprroofingcompany tells us how important it will be to put an under layment down when you go to hardwoods. The sound transmission is increased greatly with hardwoods I can assure you.

I did the same thing with the gg and used way too much!
post #125 of 168
Thread Starter 
I think it's really easy to go overboard with GG when you're doing strips instead of full sheets of drywall, especially with the speedloader.
post #126 of 168
Thread Starter 
Finally stopped for a bit to take some pictures:

The bathroom framed:


Hallway and furnace room:


Other view of hallway:


Soffit for the hallway. I'll have my rack opening on the left of this picture, facing the furnace room. That won't be too far a walk to pop in/out a disc:


Bringing in the remaining studs. Luckily my better half was able to help:

She stacks things well too. You can see the stairway area to the right where I'll be hiding all my equipment.

post #127 of 168
Thread Starter 
Next I need to demo part of my stairway to open it up, reframe the other side that I'm closing off, and frame the rack opening. I need to find a way to maximize the space in the stairwell, but the rack will block a lot of it. I was thinking of doing something like this:

But the hallway is a bit narrow, so I'm not sure if it would be awkward. Plus that type of carpentry is currently above my paygrade.

When those steps are done, it's time to finish framing the bedroom, and the soffits in both bedroom and craft room, and then I can frame the HT. I'm glad I'm doing the HT last, because I'm much better at framing now than when I began the basement.
post #128 of 168
Thread Starter 
This is another variant of pullout storage under the stairs that might be easier to pull off:

CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v62), quality = 90
post #129 of 168
Thread Starter 
Originally Posted by Mr.Tim View Post

Sorry to hear you had trouble with the tek screws. I've used many of them in steel when I did commercial work. The only two pieces of advice i have are 1) use quality tek screws (in bulk I used Hilti.. for a handful I usually got them from the local steel fabricator) and 2) screw near the edges of the flange, where they are thinner. Oh, and using a cordless drill to screw them in is usually futile.

.22 nailer + PL should be fine. I recommend the PL premium.


I'm now back to working on the wall that will attach to this I-beam. I bought a titanium drill bit to predrill the hole, used a corded driver with the correct #3 driver bit, and the Tek screws went in perfectly. Just reinforces the saying about using the right tool for the job. Thanks for the good advice!
post #130 of 168
Originally Posted by greedo View Post

I'm now back to working on the wall that will attach to this I-beam. I bought a titanium drill bit to predrill the hole, used a corded driver with the correct #3 driver bit, and the Tek screws went in perfectly. Just reinforces the saying about using the right tool for the job. Thanks for the good advice!

Glad to hear you got it worked out. Steel is a bit intimidating at first, but once you see what can actually be done, it's a piece of cake. I'l never forget the first time I saw a nail driven through a steel beam with a powder actuated fastener. Who'da thought? biggrin.gif

post #131 of 168
Just caught up on your thread. Subscribed! I feel your pain, I finished over 1200sq ft and it was a lot of work. That said, I hired out the drywall, plumbing, and about half the electrical so I can't complain to you!

As for your in-wall surrounds, I would try to build backer boxes for them. That said, you really want the boxes to have the right enclosure volume. I would try contacting B&W and ask them what volume box you should build.

Concerning your main speakers, you are so handy you should check out the DIY options in the DIY speaker subforum. Something like these:

The Tempest 12's for left, right, and center. Will keep your budget down and these speakers would be great for home theater.
Keep it up! You are making good progress.
post #132 of 168
Thread Starter 
I'm actually looking at using the GoldenEar Super Sats for my surrounds. They're on wall speakers, so no need to punch holes in my walls, and they are pretty low profile. I heard them a few months ago, and was amazed at their sound. I'm still partial to the B&W CM9s, but I'll have to see how the budget holds out. The wife has her eye on some expensive bathroom fixtures, and I may have to keep using my old Advents for a bit. I don't know if I have the patience or skill to build my own DIY speakers, and I know that when the majority of the basement is done, I will still have a lot of projects lined up. I'll take a look at the Fusion kits though. Maybe I'm overestimating the difficulty factor.
post #133 of 168
Thread Starter 
Didn't have much time tonight, but I managed to knock out one of the bedroom walls that lines up with the back of the HT room. First I had to get the Tek screws in:

Then it was framing time.

My contractor is still dragging his feet on coming out and cutting my egress window, but since we had SNOW yesterday, I can kind of understand.

post #134 of 168
Thread Starter 
Been busy with a two week vacation plus a lot of summer activities, but I've finally completed all my basement framing. I've got the HVAC guys coming out in the morning, and plumbers later in the week to finish the rough-in. The only serious delay is that my initial contractor who was going to cut my egress window flaked out on me, so I've had to find another contractor. Here are some pics of the latest work

This is the back wall of the theater. I'm doing a double wall here.

This is the front of the theater. I'll have a false wall in front of that I-beam after I put a soffit around it.

Here's the front of the theater with the doorway on the left. You can't see from this pic, but the doorway is completely decoupled from the hallway studwall.

Here's the doorway to the theater, with the stairs to the first floor on the right:


This photo is from within the bedroom next to the theater room. You can see the theater better, as well as the double wall.

Here is the double wall that has the doorway to the theater.


IB3 clips holding the walls up:

post #135 of 168
Thread Starter 
The next thing I need to do is a bit of demolition, taking out this side of the stairway. I'll first need to relocate the light switches, then it's sawzall time.

post #136 of 168
Thread Starter 
HVAC guy came out today to install a ton of stuff in the basement. He seemed to be a smart guy and understood what I was expecting. He'll be back tomorrow to finish up and clean up.

Here are some of the pics.

This is the back of the theater, with the two returns. They connect to the return duct via flex hoses. You can also see the 7" supplies that run to the front of the theater room between the joists.


Here's the backside of that return cluster. I'll hide those in an extension to the bedroom closet that run to the right.

The 7" supplies go past the i-beam, make a turn, and then come back along a different joist cavity. So I have 5 90 degree turns in each run. I will probably move them one more bay over and if possible use Naillor linear diffusers. Not sure if that's worth the extra $$ but I know these registers are pretty basic looking, and I'd rather have them a bit farther to each side so they don't catch your eye when watching a movie.

Here you can see the flex tubes behind the i-beam, where they'll be wrapped in a soffit that will cover up the i-beam as well.

post #137 of 168
Thread Starter 
Any ideas where I can find some quality parts for a sliding (bypass) closet? The stuff at the big box stores seems really shoddy.
post #138 of 168
post #139 of 168
Thread Starter 
Thanks, Big!
post #140 of 168
Thread Starter 
Has anyone used these light cans? I'm planning on using them in a soffit/proscenium above my screen, but I wasn't sure if they were dimmable, or if they'd put off too much heat in a small soffit.


post #141 of 168
Thread Starter 
Can hat channel span to the end of this joist bay without added support? I'll have my IB3 clips on the joist next to it, but unless I put supports up between the joist, I don't have anywhere at the end of the hat channel to support.

post #142 of 168
Greedo I've used those lights, they dim and they don't get too hot. Bacon Race is lit entirely with those lights, I like the 4 inch version better personally. same bulb, easier to wire.

I think you are little past the recommended hang of a channel, I would probably add some supports, A quick fix would be to lay a 2x4 on top of those existing supports and put another block at each clip location to bring it down to the right height.
post #143 of 168
Thread Starter 
Thanks Big, I'll look at the 4" lights when I hit Lowes this weekend. The 3" ones had really small junction boxes that looked like they'd be a lot of fun to connect.

Your idea is great about using a 2x4. I was trying to figure out how I'd get blocking between the joists with the framed wall in the way, but this will be a lot easier.
post #144 of 168

when you find them look at the box carefully the old stock did not include the bulb, the current version does. You can see the junction box is a lot more generous and the overall height is less than the stacked version. I've used black spray paint intended for high temperatures without issue, In use you can put your hand on top of the housing without burning your hand. I often swap the 50w for 30w bulbs If I'm using a lot of these. I really like them over the screen, 4 for a 2.35:1.
post #145 of 168
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Same ones I bought to use.
post #146 of 168
Thread Starter 

So I finally get my egress window installed for the bedroom that's going right behind my HT. I walk down this morning to start finishing up the framing (which would have taken me about 30 min) and I notice that water has been coming in around the new window. A first glance at the subfloor, and it looks like it might be okay. I snap some pictures, text the contractor, and he says he'll come out Monday to fix it. He thinks a sprinkler line he rerouted might have a leak. Sounds good.

Then I look a little closer at the damage. My subfloor is two sheets of 1/2" ply, on top of 1/2" pink foam board. I unscrew one sheet, and the water has gone way down into the bottom layer. Pull up more sheets, and it's obvious that this room's subfloor is toast. The ply has started to expand at the edges, etc. Outside the room, I notice several of the top sheets have expanded at the edges as well, but I can't pull them up since I have wood stacked all around, some of which was damaged cuz it was in the bedroom.

I'm so mad. The bedroom walls all sit on top of this subfloor, so I think I'll have to redo them. I don't want any mold growing, and unless I redo it, I'll always wonder. Even some of the top layers of ply in the adjacent HT room are expanding.

I could kill someone. It's not the cost of the materials, but my time that has me heartbroken. It could be worse, the entire basement could have been finished with flooring and carpet down. Now I'm going to be paranoid that this will happen again when I have everything done.

I think I'll tear down one wall, and redo all the sheeting as far as I find damage, the reframe that wall. I'm hoping the sheeting in the HT is going to be okay; hoping that it'll dry out without too much warping.
post #147 of 168
I'm sorry to hear that you had some water damage.

It would seem to me that the contractor should probably be the one to replace everything?

post #148 of 168
Thread Starter 
He's a masonry guy, so I'm not sure he's qualified to do the framing etc. But I'm sure going to push him to pay for as much as I can. It kills me because if my first contractor hadn't bailed on me, the egress would have been done in February, way before I put down the subfloor/framing; I would have been able to see any leaks before getting so far ahead...
post #149 of 168
Thread Starter 
Wow, I never thought I wouldn't be done by New Year's. Doing a full basement was biting off a lot, both time and budget wise. Combine that with the flooding that I had twice, and the Fall and early winter just seemed to disappear.

Currently, I'm done with all of the framing, and I passed the lame inspection from the city. The inspector didn't really look at much, so either he could tell I did a good job from the first impressions or he just didn't care. I still have some soffits to frame, but I'll finish those after I do the electrical roughin. I hope to have the electrical and plumbing rough in done by the end of the month, then it's on to insulation and drywall.
post #150 of 168

I know I am a little late to the thread, but hopefully it can all come together soon.  Glad to see everything passed inspection.  I look forward to seeing it completed!

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