L&R SEOS Tempest Build - Jeff Bagby Design - Page 3

The cutlist I used isn't terribly useful as I just put rabbet's and dado's everywhere like a madman The bottom line is to get a box 14.5" wide, 26" tall, and 13.5" deep. Then laying Erich's front baffle over that gives you the final 14.25" depth.

For the record, if I were starting over I think I'd do (this is per speaker):
Qty 1 - 13 1/2 x 26 1/16 - inner baffle (cut 1/16 long to be flush trimmed at the end)
Qty 3 - 13 x 12 1/4 - 1 brace, 1 top, 1 bottom (brace is 13 x 12 if you forego the dado)
Qty 1 - 14 1/2 x 26 - back (3/4 wide x 1/4 deep rabbets around perimeter)
Qty 2 - 13 x 26 1/16 - sides (cut 1/16 long to be flush trimmed at the end, rabbets down one edge for front baffle to drop into)

This is more or less what I did, except I did a dado for the window brace (which I didn't care much for). You definitely don't have to do the rabbets around the back (or anywhere for that matter), I imagine most people would say it's a waste of time but I felt like it helped me get things square more easily. I do actually like the front baffle dropping in quite a bit though. I also did 1/4 extra on my overhangs which was WAY too much, 1/8 would've been much better and I'll go to 1/16 in the future.

I only did one window brace between the waveguide and the woofer. You could put one between the woofer and ports if you really wanted, there's room on the baffle, but I didn't feel like it was necessary. I used two vertical braces (I just used scrap material, you could use dowels) that were about 1" wide x 24 1/2" tall. I positioned these poking through the rear window brace hole, 1 on each side. You could definitely get fancier with the bracing if you wanted to but this seems to work fine.

Looking forward to seeing the Zephyr build, are you doing three or just L/R?
Edited by MrSmithers - 1/17/13 at 7:53pm

The "shelf brace" in boxnotes assumes you're going to recess it 0.2" into each panel. I can't tell by glancing how it's getting to 13 x 13 after that though..

Also in my cutlist I posted above I believe I was assuming a dado for the brace. Without the dado it'd be 1/4" shorter, so the brace would go to 13 x 12.

If you're not concerned with having the easiest cuts possible (in terms of layout, symmetry) you can check "ignore grain direction" in Cutlist. Normally what I do is see how I can have Home Depot rip down the piece in a way that makes sense and allows it to fit in my car.