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Acer H6510BD - FullHD 3D DLP DC3 for under 1000$? - Page 10

post #271 of 511
Quote:
96hz gives sh*tty picture because this pj isn't made fore that. 24hz 60hz gives really good and bright 3d picture
Is there a setting to force the projector to 24hz or 60 hz?
Thanks
Dan
post #272 of 511
I'm looking for a 3D PJ to replace my Viewsonic PRO8500 (3D DLP Link). While mine is rated at 5000 lumens and 4900:1 contrast, blacks looks HORRIBLE in 3D mode. Even with the 3D glasses on your face, eco mode, etc the blacks are bad.
Can anyone comment on how blacks look when this PJ is in 3D mode? I've read thru the past 10 pages here, but haven't found an answer to this.
post #273 of 511
Another tip I read on an Amazon review : set the Management-->Turn Off Mode to "Instant Resume".
Default is "Instant Off" which is turning off the bulb and fan immediately after power down.
"Instant Resume" keeps the bulb and fan on for 2 mins after powering off, turns bulb off, continues to run fan for another 30 secs or so. This may help extend bulb life.
post #274 of 511
i only use pc as my source, so nvidia control panel is where i can choose hz. As i mostly use files from my harddrive there is no need to change hz from original 1920x1080 60hz. If i remember right when using windvd for fullhd 3d discs i have to have nvidia's 3dtvplay on and then when video load it changes automaticly to 24hz.

I prefer potplayer for files on harddrive because there i can easily adjust picture quality with shaders (sharpness and vibrance).
post #275 of 511
post #276 of 511
Just got one of these babies after 20 years of crt projection. Must say I am impressed. But I am wondering if anyone has found some good calibration to share as a starting point. I am using a 90" screen, 1.1 gain, from about 10'. I am running in ecomode, cause in my living room with the lights on, regular settings are too bright(!). But being new to digital, I'd like to get a little jump on calibration.
post #277 of 511
Yes. it's DLP Link, and 144Hz means it should cover just about any frame rate out there. The seller COULD have listed the model number and removed any doubt whatsoever, but since the same seller is charging $5 more for the "for Acer" listing (for shipping), I guess he's capitalizing on the imperfect knowledge of the buyer to extract more money from Acer projector owners.
post #278 of 511
Quote:
Originally Posted by CartmanDDT View Post

Yes. it's DLP Link, and 144Hz means it should cover just about any frame rate out there. The seller COULD have listed the model number and removed any doubt whatsoever, but since the same seller is charging $5 more for the "for Acer" listing (for shipping), I guess he's capitalizing on the imperfect knowledge of the buyer to extract more money from Acer projector owners.

thank you for the reply! I went ahead and bought them

I'm excited as all I've experienced was 3d on a 47 inch passive 3d LED and on a 55 inch panny plasma(and they were both mediocre) so I have three sets of 3d glasses now lol!
post #279 of 511
question(it may be a stupid one)

when this projector projects a low or mid light scene, it looks beautiful, but when it does a real bright scene with some blacks, they all look washed out! is that because of my set up like reflections or is that just normal? It is projecting a 100 inch screen at about 9 feet right now, according to the website, this projector is best at 13-15 ft, so is it that it's so bright it's bleeding onto the other colors and destroying the shadows in bright scenes?

I'd also like to add that I have a 1.1 gain maxwhite screen, it's the M100XWH from elite screens. and yes it is calibrated correctly

thanks
Edited by kevinlg - 5/8/13 at 1:18am
post #280 of 511
Quote:
Originally Posted by kevinlg View Post

question(it may be a stupid one)

when this projector projects a low or mid light scene, it looks beautiful, but when it does a real bright scene with some blacks, they all look washed out! is that because of my set up like reflections or is that just normal? It is projecting a 100 inch screen at about 9 feet right now, according to the website, this projector is best at 13-15 ft, so is it that it's so bright it's bleeding onto the other colors and destroying the shadows in bright scenes?

I'd also like to add that I have a 1.1 gain maxwhite screen, it's the M100XWH from elite screens. and yes it is calibrated correctly

thanks
Sound like your brightness and contrast settings are way off. Get a calibration disc.
post #281 of 511
yeah.Really waiting for a passive 3D projector to hit the market.thank you 4.gif
post #282 of 511
Quote:
Originally Posted by kevinlg View Post

question(it may be a stupid one)

when this projector projects a low or mid light scene, it looks beautiful, but when it does a real bright scene with some blacks, they all look washed out! is that because of my set up like reflections or is that just normal? It is projecting a 100 inch screen at about 9 feet right now, according to the website, this projector is best at 13-15 ft, so is it that it's so bright it's bleeding onto the other colors and destroying the shadows in bright scenes?

I'd also like to add that I have a 1.1 gain maxwhite screen, it's the M100XWH from elite screens. and yes it is calibrated correctly

thanks

What color are your walls, ceiling, and floor?
I covered my white ceiling with some black cloth the width of the screen and extending about 4 feet out in front of the screen. This helped a lot with blacks.
I still have a white carpet to deal with.
Optoma HD33, Seymour Glacier White DIY screen, 1.3 gain.
td
post #283 of 511
Quote:
Originally Posted by macks View Post

Sound like your brightness and contrast settings are way off. Get a calibration disc.

I said the projector is calibrated. read.

How can low light look great or medium, then when it's a real bright scene, it's so bright that the brights either bounce or bleed onto the other colours? I have the gamma low and it's in eco mode already. It even happens with an ND2 filter.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tucsondave View Post

What color are your walls, ceiling, and floor?
I covered my white ceiling with some black cloth the width of the screen and extending about 4 feet out in front of the screen. This helped a lot with blacks.
I still have a white carpet to deal with.
Optoma HD33, Seymour Glacier White DIY screen, 1.3 gain.
td

Baby blue walls, white ceiling, white tile floors.

It even happens when the room is pitch black, the projector completely lights up my bedroom! Do you think the cloth or going with a dark paint colour would help? how about bringing the screen down some so it doesn't reflect as much on the ceiling?
post #284 of 511
Quote:
Originally Posted by kevinlg View Post

I said the projector is calibrated. read.

How can low light look great or medium, then when it's a real bright scene, it's so bright that the brights either bounce or bleed onto the other colours? I have the gamma low and it's in eco mode already. It even happens with an ND2 filter.
Baby blue walls, white ceiling, white tile floors.

It even happens when the room is pitch black, the projector completely lights up my bedroom! Do you think the cloth or going with a dark paint colour would help? how about bringing the screen down some so it doesn't reflect as much on the ceiling?

Note that this projector's white light output is larger than color light output coz of RGMCMY wheel.
Projector central says turning off "Brilliant Color" make them even. Is your Brilliant Color on ?
post #285 of 511
Quote:
Originally Posted by kevinlg View Post

I said the projector is calibrated. read.

How can low light look great or medium, then when it's a real bright scene, it's so bright that the brights either bounce or bleed onto the other colours? I have the gamma low and it's in eco mode already. It even happens with an ND2 filter.
Baby blue walls, white ceiling, white tile floors.

It even happens when the room is pitch black, the projector completely lights up my bedroom! Do you think the cloth or going with a dark paint colour would help? how about bringing the screen down some so it doesn't reflect as much on the ceiling?

I'm projecting on a 100" screen from 9' away, with white walls and ceiling and it looks great with bright/dark scenes. It would look better with darker walls/ceiling.

You say you set gamma low? Did you calibrate it to low or just set it low? Assuming you set it to low without calibrating to 2.2(2.1 is as close as I got) I would say you need to calibrate it as close as possible then go back and set brightness and contrast. There is a gamma calibration on the WOW disc if that is what you have.

I really believe your issues have to do with your calibration but you can choose to ignore me.

Light reflecting off the walls and ceiling will cause a slight washed out look but not enough for most people to care.
post #286 of 511
Quote:
Originally Posted by kevinlg View Post

I said the projector is calibrated. read.

How can low light look great or medium, then when it's a real bright scene, it's so bright that the brights either bounce or bleed onto the other colours? I have the gamma low and it's in eco mode already. It even happens with an ND2 filter.
Baby blue walls, white ceiling, white tile floors.

It even happens when the room is pitch black, the projector completely lights up my bedroom! Do you think the cloth or going with a dark paint colour would help? how about bringing the screen down some so it doesn't reflect as much on the ceiling?

Projectors do light up a room. It doesn't bother me, but I don't have white tile floors acting like a mirror. I have a white ceiling but I'm using a 92 inch diagonal tripod screen that I adjusted lower so that the bottom of the frame clears my coffee table by just a inch or two. Some type of ceiling treatment and dark rugs would probably help you.
post #287 of 511
Quote:
Originally Posted by sirip View Post

Note that this projector's white light output is larger than color light output coz of RGMCMY wheel.
Projector central says turning off "Brilliant Color" make them even. Is your Brilliant Color on ?

I do have the brilliantcolor on, I will turn it off and recalibrate, any suggestions on videos or where to download another calibration disk? I was just using pictures from google this time around frown.gif

JUST ORDERED THE DISNEY WOW BLU RAY, it was $21 shipped.
Quote:
Originally Posted by macks View Post

I'm projecting on a 100" screen from 9' away, with white walls and ceiling and it looks great with bright/dark scenes. It would look better with darker walls/ceiling.

You say you set gamma low? Did you calibrate it to low or just set it low? Assuming you set it to low without calibrating to 2.2(2.1 is as close as I got) I would say you need to calibrate it as close as possible then go back and set brightness and contrast. There is a gamma calibration on the WOW disc if that is what you have.

I really believe your issues have to do with your calibration but you can choose to ignore me.

Light reflecting off the walls and ceiling will cause a slight washed out look but not enough for most people to care.

Well I set gamma at "3"

I won't ignore you I'm open to suggestions! Sorry if I was rude.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sonyad View Post

Projectors do light up a room. It doesn't bother me, but I don't have white tile floors acting like a mirror. I have a white ceiling but I'm using a 92 inch diagonal tripod screen that I adjusted lower so that the bottom of the frame clears my coffee table by just a inch or two. Some type of ceiling treatment and dark rugs would probably help you.

I have put a rug down on the tile before hand just because I kind of knew that was coming lol
post #288 of 511
here is some pics of my bedroom set up, and you can see how the whites are overblown even after I did the little THX calibration that comes on some blu ray disks

here's where my projector is at ( these were all taken around 5 pm )



here's where the screen pulls down to, in front of my p55st30 xbox, yamaha receiver, and ps3



here's with the lights off after i did the THX calibration and turned brilliantcolor off



lights on



here's the screen



Here's the rug lol, i just vacuumed it



the screen from up front, as you can see, it shines to the top, and to the sides pretty bad



this one is a bit exxagerated because I can actually read the menu, but the blacks are not off

post #289 of 511
It's like deja vu all over again.
My livingroom walls are the same blue color, white carpet and ceiling, white vertical blinds on the windows on the side walls.
However I painted one side of the blinds a darker shade of blue than the walls. It really helped. and if I want the white side in, that's easy.

I too have calibrated my pj but the room treatment helped the most.

td
post #290 of 511
Quote:
Originally Posted by tucsondave View Post

It's like deja vu all over again.
My livingroom walls are the same blue color, white carpet and ceiling, white vertical blinds on the windows on the side walls.
However I painted one side of the blinds a darker shade of blue than the walls. It really helped. and if I want the white side in, that's easy.

I too have calibrated my pj but the room treatment helped the most.

td

so how do I go about doing a room treatment?
post #291 of 511
When using this during the day you definitely want brilliant color turned on. Bill from projector central reported better colors with brilliant color on also.

When dealing with front projection, ambient light will wash out the picture! How much it will wash out the picture can be influenced.

A front projector will light up your room. All light sources light up your room, in fact.

That last picture is horrible. Are you trying to say that is caused by light bouncing off the walls?
post #292 of 511
Quote:
Originally Posted by macks View Post

When using this during the day you definitely want brilliant color turned on. Bill from projector central reported better colors with brilliant color on also.

When dealing with front projection, ambient light will wash out the picture! How much it will wash out the picture can be influenced.

A front projector will light up your room. All light sources light up your room, in fact.

That last picture is horrible. Are you trying to say that is caused by light bouncing off the walls?

but a couple posts back someone said turn brilliantcolor off?

Well i know ambient light will wash it out hence why I never leave anything on

I took these shots last night after some more calibration before the disney WOW comes in, all with my iphone 4


post #293 of 511
Quote:
Originally Posted by kevinlg View Post

so how do I go about doing a room treatment?

From your photos I think the main problem is the ceiling and vertical blinds.
I bought a piece of cheap black cloth 45" wide and slightly longer than the screen width from a fabric store and fastened it
to the ceiling above the screen.
I then painted my vertical blinds dark blue on one side using latex paint.




Hope this helps.
td
post #294 of 511
Quote:
Originally Posted by jaz50y View Post

Just got one of these babies after 20 years of crt projection. Must say I am impressed. But I am wondering if anyone has found some good calibration to share as a starting point. I am using a 90" screen, 1.1 gain, from about 10'. I am running in ecomode, cause in my living room with the lights on, regular settings are too bright(!). But being new to digital, I'd like to get a little jump on calibration.

Projector Central had the mode set to Movie and the color temperature to the following:

Red Gain = 100
Green Gain = 94
Blue Gain = 97
Green Bias = -5

I found this got pretty close. Of course, a calibration disc always works best. Even something simple like the calibrations found in the menus of a Pixar Blu Ray is better than nothing.
post #295 of 511
Quote:
Originally Posted by tucsondave View Post

From your photos I think the main problem is the ceiling and vertical blinds.
I bought a piece of cheap black cloth 45" wide and slightly longer than the screen width from a fabric store and fastened it
to the ceiling above the screen.
I then painted my vertical blinds dark blue on one side using latex paint.




Hope this helps.
td

Thanks! I will do this for sure
Ironic how I have over $2,000 in photo equipment/lenses and I'm using my iPhones for pictures, the screen will come down some tonight, so that'll help a ton!
post #296 of 511
Would this be a good upgrade from our HD66? Besides the obvious 720 to 1080 in resolution. We have been considering purchasing a 3d converter and some 3d glasses for our hd66. Knock on wood the projector runs great but I am wondering if it's a better idea to just sell the hd66 and purchase a newer projector that has full 3d capabilities and maybe a overall better picture because of the resolution. Thoughts are definitely appreciated?!?!?!?!

Thank you in advance.
post #297 of 511
Quote:
Originally Posted by rnatalli View Post

Projector Central had the mode set to Movie and the color temperature to the following:

Red Gain = 100
Green Gain = 94
Blue Gain = 97
Green Bias = -5

I found this got pretty close. Of course, a calibration disc always works best. Even something simple like the calibrations found in the menus of a Pixar Blu Ray is better than nothing.

My 30' Redmere seems to be behaving well whole week for some reason. I don't know why it didn't work first couple of days.

With BrilliantColor off in "Movie" mode or "User" mode with above adjustments, it looks better than "on" to me (Just by eyeballing). With BrilliantColor on, I can see image becomes a bit greenish. With off, colors and skin tones are more natural. WLO and CLO seem better balanced.

I have a bit of a suspicion that right side of screen looks dimmer than left side. But couldn't conclude it by just watching movies. Need to put up a known good white image and see. Anyone else noticed this ?
post #298 of 511
Thanks to rnatalli for Projector Cental info. It's a good start. I have a new problem. I watched a Netflix streaming movie on my PS3 for the first time, and every so often, maybe 5 to 10 min intervals, the video signal would be lost, the screen flash bright static for a second, then return. A couple of times the Acer lost the video connection altogether, which took a few seconds to correct. No problems with my Verizon Fios, haven't tried a dvd. The PS3 gui is stable (and looks great!). My setup goes PS3 > HDMI > Monoprice 1x4 switch > Monoprice 34' HDMI to DVI cable > Monoprice DVI to HDMI adapter > 3' HDMI cable > Acer.

Never had this problem with my Barco 808 (which was modified for 1080p), tho the DVI went straight in, no adapter.
post #299 of 511
Quote:
Originally Posted by jaz50y View Post

Thanks to rnatalli for Projector Cental info. It's a good start. I have a new problem. I watched a Netflix streaming movie on my PS3 for the first time, and every so often, maybe 5 to 10 min intervals, the video signal would be lost, the screen flash bright static for a second, then return. A couple of times the Acer lost the video connection altogether, which took a few seconds to correct. No problems with my Verizon Fios, haven't tried a dvd. The PS3 gui is stable (and looks great!). My setup goes PS3 > HDMI > Monoprice 1x4 switch > Monoprice 34' HDMI to DVI cable > Monoprice DVI to HDMI adapter > 3' HDMI cable > Acer.

Never had this problem with my Barco 808 (which was modified for 1080p), tho the DVI went straight in, no adapter.
That's a pretty long chain of items that could be causing signal issues. But, I would bet that the weak link is the switch back from DVI to HDM. Those connections cause much more signal loss that you could imagine. I'd invest in a good replcement 35' HDMI to HDMI cable, and that will most likely solve your problems.
post #300 of 511
Quote:
Originally Posted by CartmanDDT View Post

That's a pretty long chain of items that could be causing signal issues. But, I would bet that the weak link is the switch back from DVI to HDM. Those connections cause much more signal loss that you could imagine. I'd invest in a good replcement 35' HDMI to HDMI cable, and that will most likely solve your problems.

yeah, it's the switch-cable-adapter link. Big signal loss. I had same problem. Mine was loosing sync every 10 secs or so. Please ready my posts in this thread.

Right now, BD Player -> Monoprice 1x2 HDMI switch --> 30' Monoprice Redmere HDMI cable --> Acer is working stably. I don't see the loss of sync issue. Keeping my fingers crossed. Seems like these cheap projectors' (including Benq w1070, reading its thread) HDMI receiver isn't great.
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