Direct link to Amazon
Thanks for posting the correct link. I did the other one on my phone and must have goofed it up somehow.
I'd like to ask y'all something...how do you deal with the static images that you can have in your cable channels (logos, etc) not to have IR or burn in or...anything that can appear?
And...another very general question... (if you can redirect me to any other thread that talk about it, I'll be thankful), which is the best way to proceed with one of those ST60 plasma sets when you have just purchased it? (I mean, those 100 hours aprox of running slides and stuff, the maximum contrast to have in the first days....I don't want to mess it up cause I'm new with all that)
Yep, I'm used to the passive 3d and I really like it but I was thinking to change my led to have better PQ with this panasonic so I wanted to know how was the active 3d that they offer...
So it's not a problem of settings or anything...is a fact that the glasses make the image much darker? Any point in favor of the active 3d?
Here's a link to the Power Conditioner. I don't see anything about voltage stabilization but I just glanced over it. The APC UPS is not a true sine wave model (for PFC supplies) so also not sure about any voltage stabilization. The voltage indicator on both pieces doesn't really fluctuate "real-time". The voltage from the wall obviously changes over time and I do notice some fluctuations on the power conditioner so it's tough to say. I know my local power company considers anything 120V +/- 5% to be within limits. I also know that my power conditioner varies significantly less than the voltage at the wall so that might imply "something" is going on but I can't be certain.
Also, just to clarify the statement above. If I fast forward a signal from my DVR with the TV muted (as it does automatically with DirecTV), then as the picture lightens and darkens, I can hear a change in the frequency of the buzz. If the picture is brighter then the buzz is louder and seemingly higher in frequency than when the picture is darker (quieter and lower frequency). I'm sure I could test the bounds of my buzzing with a true white and true black background but honestly it's not really worth it to me. I'll continue to monitor the buzz as my warranty gets closer to expiring but until I hear someone who has buzz say the buzz is now completely gone, I can live with it.
I have my passive 3d and I'm very happy with this feature too, but it's also my first 3d set so...I cannot say too much, I don't know which one is better...
Aha, and that pixel flipper realy works?
Apart from this '10% rule' is there any other rule of more or less how much time you have till is probable that you get IR? I mean...if I have 2 hours a channel with a logo, will it be there?