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Official Panasonic TC-PxxST60 Series thread - Page 371

post #11101 of 12345
Quote:
Originally Posted by tdeath View Post

I'd like to ask y'all something...how do you deal with the static images that you can have in your cable channels (logos, etc) not to have IR or burn in or...anything that can appear?

And...another very general question... (if you can redirect me to any other thread that talk about it, I'll be thankful), which is the best way to proceed with one of those ST60 plasma sets when you have just purchased it? (I mean, those 100 hours aprox of running slides and stuff, the maximum contrast to have in the first days....I don't want to mess it up cause I'm new with all that)

I ran DNice's slides for 300 straight hours outt the box yet 3 months in, I was having a slight burn-in f the DirecTv logo in the upper right corner. I ended up running Panny's screen swipe overnight for a week or 2 until I could hardly make out the DirecTv logo anymore. Then I simply forgot about it and it's been a nonissue even tho I live on the Directv channel guide. Seems to me if you deal with burn-in early on, it becomes a nonissue as the plasma ages. Just my impressions.
post #11102 of 12345
Quote:
Originally Posted by tdeath View Post

Aha, and that pixel flipper realy works?
Apart from this '10% rule' is there any other rule of more or less how much time you have till is probable that you get IR? I mean...if I have 2 hours a channel with a logo, will it be there?

I can tell you that if I watch a NFL game on Fox that logo will be retained for days after I have watched just 3 hours. I have over 800 hours on my set and I think the IR is getting worse.

I can bring up the guide on my Dish Hopper and navigate around to a channel then switch and the white DISH text can be seen on my screen for several minutes afterwards, and I was only in the guide for 30 seconds or so.

Some panels are not this bad but mine has to be as bad as you can get.
post #11103 of 12345
Quote:
Originally Posted by Robin Bombard View Post


I ran DNice's slides for 300 straight hours outt the box yet 3 months in, I was having a slight burn-in f the DirecTv logo in the upper right corner. I ended up running Panny's screen swipe overnight for a week or 2 until I could hardly make out the DirecTv logo anymore. Then I simply forgot about it and it's been a nonissue even tho I live on the Directv channel guide. Seems to me if you deal with burn-in early on, it becomes a nonissue as the plasma ages. Just my impressions.


Oh yes that DTV logo etc in right top corner can do some damage.

When 1080i only setting enabled I found traces of it for an hour or so quite often.

With 720p only setting enabled I'm not seeing it.

post #11104 of 12345
Quote:
Originally Posted by philz662 View Post


Oh yes that DTV logo etc in right top corner can do some damage.
When 1080i only setting enabled I found traces of it for an hour or so quite often.
With 720p only setting enabled I'm not seeing it.

Well for what it's worth, that's all a distant memory for my 9 month old ST60 with 3600 hours. I have zero issues now and I've never deviated from the 79/81 contrast settings in the 2 picture modes I use. But I did use the screen wipe religiously with the set on for 24/7 when I did see it until which time that I didn't. Then I never saw it again. My heart goes out to those who haven't been as fortunate with their plasmas.
post #11105 of 12345
Quote:
Originally Posted by tdeath View Post

Aha, and that pixel flipper realy works?
Apart from this '10% rule' is there any other rule of more or less how much time you have till is probable that you get IR? I mean...if I have 2 hours a channel with a logo, will it be there?

Honestly it all depends the panel you get. Some of us are lucky and have no IR after some time of aging the panel, others continue to have issues. Wish I could say for sure what is best for you, but it's kinda luck of the draw.
post #11106 of 12345
Quote:
Originally Posted by sheshechic View Post

Maybe because soundbars are only 2.1 at best?
so what is the best way to connect to sound bar, to feed sound from BD player or DVR box, problem is, most sound bars have one or may be 2 optical inputs,
post #11107 of 12345
Quote:
Originally Posted by Robin Bombard View Post


Well for what it's worth, that's all a distant memory for my 9 month old ST60 with 3600 hours. I have zero issues now and I've never deviated from the 79/81 contrast settings in the 2 picture modes I use. But I did use the screen wipe religiously with the set on for 24/7 when I did see it until which time that I didn't. Then I never saw it again. My heart goes out to those who haven't been as fortunate with their plasmas.


Right on great news.

I'm currently at 1500 hours same contrast having zero issue as well.

The DTV resolution setting plays a big part with guide retention so Ive found with my last 3 Plasmas.

Every time I ran 1080i only setting the guides sharp edges would make its presence known for short periods so back to 720p only I went.

No issues  , no worries I'm a happy camper

post #11108 of 12345
Quote:
Originally Posted by sprint67 View Post

I can tell you that if I watch a NFL game on Fox that logo will be retained for days after I have watched just 3 hours. I have over 800 hours on my set and I think the IR is getting worse.

I can bring up the guide on my Dish Hopper and navigate around to a channel then switch and the white DISH text can be seen on my screen for several minutes afterwards, and I was only in the guide for 30 seconds or so.

Some panels are not this bad but mine has to be as bad as you can get.

I have the same issues as you. I get the fox logo after watching a football games for 3 or so hours or just by having the Viera menu on for a few seconds. The IR goes away as you watch other contents and I do run the Disney pixel flipper overnight from time to time.

Another issue I have now is vertical bands on the right side of the panels. A tech is coming on Monday to take a look at it.
post #11109 of 12345
Quote:
Originally Posted by wiggindude View Post

I have the same issues as you. I get the fox logo after watching a football games for 3 or so hours or just by having the Viera menu on for a few seconds. The IR goes away as you watch other contents and I do run the Disney pixel flipper overnight from time to time.

Another issue I have now is vertical bands on the right side of the panels. A tech is coming on Monday to take a look at it.

Let me know what he says because I don't think this is normal IR for the time the images are staying on the screen. Yes it does go away but it shouldn't show any IR after only having the Viera menus, netflix menus, or Dish guide up for only a few seconds.
post #11110 of 12345
Quote:
Originally Posted by iserum View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by sheshechic View Post

Maybe because soundbars are only 2.1 at best?
so what is the best way to connect to sound bar, to feed sound from BD player or DVR box, problem is, most sound bars have one or may be 2 optical inputs,

That is the question that I think should be given much thought before purchasing a sound bar. I watched video reviews on Cnet before I purchased the CT150- I like to see everything. It's been a while since I made that decision and so I can't recall if there were any others, within my price range, that offered so many connections and so much control over the sound.
post #11111 of 12345
We've been watching tons of football for the past month and there's not a spot of IR on my ST. My contrast and brightness settings are higher than most too.
post #11112 of 12345
I have a question if I may, or I should say my wife has a question. She has used the Dnice settings after doing the slides for 100 hours. And then she tweaked the picture to her liking using the Disney WOW disk. Her question though is that the WOW disk calibrates the DVD input ... but how do you calibrate the set-top box input and even the AppleTV inputs? They do not have a disk with patterns that you can use as a guide, or template for contrast comparison purposes, or blackness depths. I told her that you really can't calibrate the TV to the broadcast, or even internet feed as that can vary channel to channel, and time to time, unlike the DVD which is a set, locked signal with no variance. So ... do you calibrate the TV to over the air/over the set-top box/cable signal? Or do you just take them as they come and just worry about seeing a great source like DVD's as they were meant to be seen? confused.gif
post #11113 of 12345
Quote:
Originally Posted by NeilK View Post

I have a question if I may, or I should say my wife has a question. She has used the Dnice settings after doing the slides for 100 hours. And then she tweaked the picture to her liking using the Disney WOW disk. Her question though is that the WOW disk calibrates the DVD input ... but how do you calibrate the set-top box input and even the AppleTV inputs? They do not have a disk with patterns that you can use as a guide, or template for contrast comparison purposes, or blackness depths. I told her that you really can't calibrate the TV to the broadcast, or even internet feed as that can vary channel to channel, and time to time, unlike the DVD which is a set, locked signal with no variance. So ... do you calibrate the TV to over the air/over the set-top box/cable signal? Or do you just take them as they come and just worry about seeing a great source like DVD's as they were meant to be seen? confused.gif

The disk and the player are just tools to calibrate the port.
post #11114 of 12345
And how do you calibrate the other ports ... that is her question?
post #11115 of 12345
Just hook up your DVD to the other inputs and perform the same calibration. There's no good way unless you have a colorimeter.
post #11116 of 12345
OK, got the picture now. YOu are actually calibrating the individual input, whichever port the DVD is connected too ... NOT the DVD input per se, but HDMI 1, 2 or 3. Dohhh ... that was too simple rolleyes.gif We just didn't look at it that way. Move the DVD from HDMI x to HDMI y and HDMI z and you are calibrated on all ports.

Thanks guys, just needed a kick in the head to grasp that
post #11117 of 12345
Quote:
Originally Posted by sprint67 View Post

Let me know what he says because I don't think this is normal IR for the time the images are staying on the screen. Yes it does go away but it shouldn't show any IR after only having the Viera menus, netflix menus, or Dish guide up for only a few seconds.

I'll ask him about it and report back. I'm more concern with the vertical bands as I'm afraid it will worse over time and become a permanent black band. I like to get it look at now while I'm still in warranty.
post #11118 of 12345
Quote:
Originally Posted by comfynumb View Post

Will any wireless keyboard work on the ST60 and can I use it to type in searches for Netflix and Vudu? The remote app won't let me type searches in for these and it's very annoying using the remote.

iPad, iPhone, android phone. Work AMAZING!! iPad is the best, you can also surf the web, and "throw it" on the screen (very cool feature)
post #11119 of 12345
Does not see all the files on my USB drive. I once put the in a folder, and that worked, and now it only see's one of the files??

Any tricks to getting the USB to work?

And for converting an AVI file to work, what is the best format?

On the convertor I have, it has multiple MP4 versions....
post #11120 of 12345
Just an update on my banding issue. Tech. Said he doesn't know what's causing it. Seems like he might try to just brush me off. Almost like it's not bad enough to worry about. I told him otherwise and he is going to look into it more...hmmm
post #11121 of 12345
Btw my panel gets IR so easily that I can have a still image up for a matter of seconds and get it. Luckily it always seems to go away quickly, even if I have a still image up for an extended period. So it's really not an issue
post #11122 of 12345
Fix it or replace it, hammer that thought hard to both your tech & to Panasonic. You didn't pay good money for fishbone tv and you shouldn't be forced to accept anything less than their best.. The clock is ticking and Panasonic knows it. Squeeky wheel gets the grease, don't let them off the hook. smile.gif
post #11123 of 12345
Quote:
Originally Posted by wattheF View Post

Btw my panel gets IR so easily that I can have a still image up for a matter of seconds and get it. Luckily it always seems to go away quickly, even if I have a still image up for an extended period. So it's really not an issue
These links may help you understand the IR that you're seeing.

Two Types of IR - Part I

Two Types of IR - Part II

Avoid and Remove IR.
post #11124 of 12345
Can anybody tell me if the 50ST60 has built in dual band wifi?
post #11125 of 12345
Quote:
Originally Posted by NeilK View Post

OK, got the picture now. YOu are actually calibrating the individual input, whichever port the DVD is connected too ... NOT the DVD input per se, but HDMI 1, 2 or 3. Dohhh ... that was too simple rolleyes.gif We just didn't look at it that way. Move the DVD from HDMI x to HDMI y and HDMI z and you are calibrated on all ports.

Thanks guys, just needed a kick in the head to grasp that

That only works in cinema or custom mode, all others are global.
post #11126 of 12345
My ST60 connects to both the 2.4 and 5.0 GHz bands if that's what you're asking.
post #11127 of 12345
Quote:
Originally Posted by senior1973 View Post

My ST60 connects to both the 2.4 and 5.0 GHz bands if that's what you're asking.
Sounds like dual band.
post #11128 of 12345
Quote:
Originally Posted by CarguyHere View Post

iPad, iPhone, android phone. Work AMAZING!! iPad is the best, you can also surf the web, and "throw it" on the screen (very cool feature)



I've tried with my iPhone and iPad but can't get it to do the searches for Netflix and other apps. So how are you doing this?
post #11129 of 12345
Quote:
Originally Posted by NeilK View Post

I have a question if I may, or I should say my wife has a question. She has used the Dnice settings after doing the slides for 100 hours. And then she tweaked the picture to her liking using the Disney WOW disk. Her question though is that the WOW disk calibrates the DVD input ... but how do you calibrate the set-top box input and even the AppleTV inputs? They do not have a disk with patterns that you can use as a guide, or template for contrast comparison purposes, or blackness depths. I told her that you really can't calibrate the TV to the broadcast, or even internet feed as that can vary channel to channel, and time to time, unlike the DVD which is a set, locked signal with no variance. So ... do you calibrate the TV to over the air/over the set-top box/cable signal? Or do you just take them as they come and just worry about seeing a great source like DVD's as they were meant to be seen? confused.gif

There is a THX tune up app for iOS, that was once free that you can AirPlay through appleTV. Though I have yet to attempt this. Just past 100hrs, on my way to 200.
post #11130 of 12345
Quote:
Originally Posted by wattheF View Post

Btw my panel gets IR so easily that I can have a still image up for a matter of seconds and get it. Luckily it always seems to go away quickly, even if I have a still image up for an extended period. So it's really not an issue


You can see it with regular content? The band too?
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