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Official Panasonic TC-PxxST60 Series thread - Page 252

post #7531 of 12396
Cinema mode is a little dull (colors are a bit desaturated compared to Custom).
The set won't be bright like an LCD, but the colors and deep blacks and shadows are very good. You don't need much more than the set can produce in a regular room or night viewing environment.
post #7532 of 12396
Quote:
Originally Posted by supermandlb View Post

You can download the slides from this link

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1466472/2013-panasonic-settings-issues-thread

Call me a noob but how exactly do I run these slides on the TV? Where am I transferring them from etc? I plan on purchasing the ST60 within the next month or so. Thanks a lot!
post #7533 of 12396
Quote:
Originally Posted by eappell View Post

Just got my TC-P60ST60 yesterday and so far I'm totally blown away by the picture. I'm having a one issue that I'm hoping someone here can help me with... I have my TV connected to the output of my Pioneer VSX-1123-K receiver and the ARC works great, but every time I turn the TV on it defaults to HDMI input 1. So how do I set the default input on power up to HDMI 2?

Thanks!

Glad you are enjoying your ST60. I'm looking to purchase the ST60 as well within the next month. Excited to hear all the positive reviews on this TV and can't wait to get it home. Was wondering if you can tell me what settings you used out of the box to achieve best picture. Did you get it professionally calibrated? Thanks, and enjoy your new TV!
post #7534 of 12396
Quote:
Originally Posted by seanfoh View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by garnettrules21 View Post

What's your brightness and contrast settings at? Also, pixel orbiter and overscan on/off?

80 Contrast, -3 Brightness (rest is D-Nice's settings). Pixel Orbiter is on and Overscan is off.

Game Mode is always on. I also use 1080p Direct for video content since they fixed the bugs with it with the new firmware. Still kinda wary about using it when gaming though since it used to add input lag, not sure if it still does with the new firmware.


I used Cadett's settings but with Contrast at 70 and Brightness at -2. His defaults were just blinding in a darkened room with bias lighting behind the set; will probably leave them at the higher values for 3D. Colors look to be spot on, and the PQ is just amazing... Finished the 100 hours of slides tonight and have been dialing in settings for the past little bit...

Lost my last Panny to burn-in, so this 50" will be babied...
Edited by nickfro - 8/13/13 at 6:24pm
post #7535 of 12396
The "slides" are just simple JPEG-formatted image files. You copy them to a USB 2.0-based flash drive (aka "thumb drive", "memory stick", etc.) and plug that into one of the USB slots on the TV. Then you bring up the Apps and select whichever app it is (I'm at work so I can't go check to be sure of exact name) to view pictures. You put that into slideshow mode and tell it to loop through the slides. Then you ignore the red, green, blue, white and shades of grey screens that the TV shows for the next 100 (or 300, depending on who you listen to) hours. I found it easiest to face the TV into a wall so I didn't have to look at it. Finally, you get an ISF calibrator to come in and fully calibrate your set or you find one of the many complete lists of settings that various calibrators have done to different people's sets in the same series as yours and apply them (you may try different collections of settings to see what works best for you). The former option is expensive but will give the best possible results for your set. The latter option is free but imperfect. Still, it's far better than the default settings.
post #7536 of 12396
Hello all,

I was hoping someone in here could give me a little advice as I am quite a newb to all of this TV stuff. I recently picked up an open box TC-P50ST60 from BestBuy. When I first saw it, it was playing BestBuy's' slide show thing and I am unaware of what the previous owner did to it. Also I have no idea how many hours are on the set. My question is, is it worth the extra 200 to bring it back and pay full price for a new one , so I know it has been properly broken in or is there a way to make sure the life and quality of the TV will continue to last over the next 3+ years? I would really apprecaite the help.

-Will
post #7537 of 12396
Quote:
Originally Posted by dannov View Post

How do u view hrs on this set?

The procedure is posted everywhere and is easily found via Google, but i posted a good link on the first page of this thread.
post #7538 of 12396
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigwillie343 View Post

Hello all, I was hoping someone in here could give me a little advice as I am quite a newb to all of this TV stuff. I recently picked up an open box TC-P50ST60 from BestBuy. When I first saw it, it was playing BestBuy's' slide show thing and I am unaware of what the previous owner did to it. Also I have no idea how many hours are on the set. My question is, is it worth the extra 200 to bring it back and pay full price for a new one , so I know it has been properly broken in or is there a way to make sure the life and quality of the TV will continue to last over the next 3+ years? I would really apprecaite the help.

I don't know how important that $200 savings was to you, but if the TV doesn't have any screen issues or burn-in or buzzing or any other sort of defect then i don't see any good reason to return it regardless of the reason it ended up being sold as used, and the amount of hours on it won't matter either.
post #7539 of 12396
Quote:
Originally Posted by RandyWalters View Post

I don't know how important that $200 savings was to you, but if the TV doesn't have any screen issues or burn-in or buzzing or any other sort of defect then i don't see any good reason to return it regardless of the reason it ended up being sold as used, and the amount of hours on it won't matter either.
+1 Why go through the trouble to return it and pay an extra $200 and take the chance of getting one with issues.
post #7540 of 12396
Quote:
Originally Posted by dank0723 View Post

Contrast 78 and Brightness 0 is a bit on the torchy side? Man I had the F7100 LED before I switched to the ST60, and i LOVED how bright that set was (Clouding and flashlighting SUCK). I know ST60 wont compare to LED in terms of brightness and Im breaking in my 65ST60 now using default cinema mode, which has Contrast 85 and Brightness 0 seem DULLLLL. Different eyes I guess, but I really hope I can get some decent brightness out of this set!

I'm starting to think there's a pretty wide latitude between panels, as far as the fine picture adjustments go. I "calibrated" a friend's P60ST60 and left his contrast at around 90, but that was during the break-in period. So my ~80 could be like someone else's ~60. But in general though, I think properly dialing in the blunt settings, like panel brightness, etc. have a bigger impact on PQ than moving the contrast and brightness up or down 5. Which is why I only follow "one-size-fits-all" posted settings like D-Nice's (happy he does it though!) to a point, relying on the WoW filters and my eyes to get me the rest of the way.
post #7541 of 12396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pop Zeus View Post

But in general though, I think properly dialing in the blunt settings, like panel brightness, etc. have a bigger impact on PQ than moving the contrast and brightness up or down 5. Which is why I only follow "one-size-fits-all" posted settings like D-Nice's (happy he does it though!) to a point, relying on the WoW filters and my eyes to get me the rest of the way.

+1 to this.
post #7542 of 12396
Quote:
Originally Posted by jp0213x View Post

Anyone seeing that vertical line to the right side of the panel, I did notice it on the 60 inch ST60 on display in best buy. I wonder if these set will get worse as you put more hours on them.

I'm curious about the the vertical line on the right side too as I've heard and in the VT forum. It's been reported by some that they don't see it while watching "normal" content. Personally, I wouldn't want it to be there under any circumstance. However, I vaguely remember reading somewhere that the same vertical line was not present on the 50" screen of the ST60. Can anyone out there confirm this?? Thanks.
post #7543 of 12396
That defect was present in last year's models as well it is only noticeable at extreme viewing angles and then it is still subtle.
post #7544 of 12396
Quote:
Originally Posted by seanfoh View Post

Here's my personal experience with IR and the ST60:

I got the set when it was released in late April and have put a ton of hours on it. I had my first bad run in with IR when I played Dead Island Riptide for about 10 hours straight on it while having probably a bit under 200 hours on the set. I ended up with the bright, white health bar being clearly visible on light screens for around a week, but it eventually faded away. That was the worst I've experienced on it by far. After that I had HUD components from other games stick around for a while too, but they were barely noticeable and only lasted a couple days max and that kind of thing has seemed to last less and less as I've used it more.

Fast Forward to this past week when Tales of Xillia came out and I have put about 25 hours of playtime into it with a few rather long stretches of playing there. I've had no IR show up at all from the HUD components on it and I have been actively looking for them.

So, from my own anecdotal experience, I think that IR on the set drastically decreases the more hours you put on it. For reference I have 1,960 hours on mine according to the service menu (I have a condition and can't really leave my house, so not much else to do but use the TV unfortunately).

What screen size is your ST60? Thanks.
post #7545 of 12396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pop Zeus View Post

I'm starting to think there's a pretty wide latitude between panels, as far as the fine picture adjustments go. I "calibrated" a friend's P60ST60 and left his contrast at around 90, but that was during the break-in period. So my ~80 could be like someone else's ~60. But in general though, I think properly dialing in the blunt settings, like panel brightness, etc. have a bigger impact on PQ than moving the contrast and brightness up or down 5. Which is why I only follow "one-size-fits-all" posted settings like D-Nice's (happy he does it though!) to a point, relying on the WoW filters and my eyes to get me the rest of the way.

I was trying to figure out what you were trying to say... but now I get that you espouse using the -- Pro settings submenu -- for the most effectiveness & the Picture Menu for secondary fine tuning.

For me, it's also always has been relying on my eyes & the crinkle between my eyebrows.
If that converges, I've set the TV too bright.

Furthermore, I've never had issues with brightness burn-in on my plasmas - maybe my astigmatism helps LOL! - but color adjustments are my achilles heal. I'm at an utter loss for those.
post #7546 of 12396
Quote:
Originally Posted by ricemanva View Post

+1 to this.

Yup, people shouldn't be using others' detailed gamma/color settings, because the panels are so different. Doing so will either make the picture worse, or no better than the default settings.
post #7547 of 12396
Hi all - Please forgive the newbie question but I am far from a video/audiophile.

Seems like an easy question.

When my TV (Panasonic VIERA TC-P50ST60) is at volume level 1, the lowest possible without being muted, it is still very loud. In a quiet house before bed, I can't believe there isn't a lower setting. I've tried looking for ways to remedy to no avail. Has anyone run into this issue and found a solution?

Really appreciate the help. Thanks.
post #7548 of 12396
The speakers are on the bottom of the frame near the sides and face down, so maybe you could put towels or something under them. I wouldn't expect miracles from that. Otherwise, you'd have to look into some kind of headphones setup, and you'd need a DAC or receiver as the ST60 doesn't have analog outputs. I wouldn't say my 50ST60 is loud on 1; in a quiet environment, it's sort of usable, but it's nowhere near loud enough to drown out the buzzing even in fairly dark scenes, so I would never listen to it that low. Plus, my AC completely overwhelms it when the fan is on.
post #7549 of 12396
There should be a standard headphone jack on the TV, by the card slot.
post #7550 of 12396
Or you can go into the audio settings part of the menu and adjust some things there, to make it quieter at that volume setting.
post #7551 of 12396
Quote:
Originally Posted by cyberbri View Post

Or you can go into the audio settings part of the menu and adjust some things there, to make it quieter at that volume setting.

Appreciate all the thoughts. I had tried going into the audio settings part of the menu but there didn't seem to be anything in there that helped adjust things. I guess there are worse things to worry about but it's really noticeable even with our AC on most of the night as well. smile.gif
post #7552 of 12396
Quote:
Originally Posted by tripleM View Post

I was trying to figure out what you were trying to say... but now I get that you espouse using the -- Pro settings submenu -- for the most effectiveness & the Picture Menu for secondary fine tuning.

Yeah, accurate color is the hardest thing to get right when self-calibrating. Even worse is that inaccurate contrast, brightness and gamma settings will only make accurate color harder to achieve.

The point I was trying to make before is that the blunt settings (I forget which submenu they're located under) will get you into the ballpark of proper PQ and you can use the finer adjustments to lock in something accurate. But no amount of fiddling with the brightness and contrast or gamma will fix the PQ if your blunt settings are off. The example I'm thinking of the panel brightness. I had accidentally set it to 'dark' and it was impossible to dial out the black crush.

To get my PQ, I had to bounce from contrast/brightness adjustments, to color and then to gamma and then back and forth a couple of times. Each time I went back to a control, I knew I had to move it less and that, in turn, would mean less fiddling with the other set of controls. Kind of a hassle but as you got closer to accurate, the image REALLY popped.
post #7553 of 12396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pop Zeus View Post

Yeah, accurate color is the hardest thing to get right when self-calibrating. Even worse is that inaccurate contrast, brightness and gamma settings will only make accurate color harder to achieve.

The point I was trying to make before is that the blunt settings (I forget which submenu they're located under) will get you into the ballpark of proper PQ and you can use the finer adjustments to lock in something accurate. But no amount of fiddling with the brightness and contrast or gamma will fix the PQ if your blunt settings are off. The example I'm thinking of the panel brightness. I had accidentally set it to 'dark' and it was impossible to dial out the black crush.

To get my PQ, I had to bounce from contrast/brightness adjustments, to color and then to gamma and then back and forth a couple of times. Each time I went back to a control, I knew I had to move it less and that, in turn, would mean less fiddling with the other set of controls. Kind of a hassle but as you got closer to accurate, the image REALLY popped.

care to post ur settings?

smile.gif
post #7554 of 12396
Is there a way to turn off the speakers? I'm planning on using a Onkyo AVR.
post #7555 of 12396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob_Collins View Post

It happens playing through the TV speakers, so it is not the optical out that is at fault. And the other channel is indeed there, just extremely faint. Again, I do not recall this being the case with the older firmware. Can anyone else confirm?

Update: it appears that the right channel is the one being muted out when playing through the media player, at least on MP3 files that I've tested with so far.

Anyone else noticed this, especially with firmware earlier than the newest?
post #7556 of 12396
Quote:
Originally Posted by ricardoht View Post

Is there a way to turn off the speakers? I'm planning on using a Onkyo AVR.

As far as I know, there is no "off" setting. You can mute them, but then the mute icon is always on the screen. So far, I believe the consensus is to turn the speakers down to a volume of 0.
post #7557 of 12396
Got a brand new (not warehouse deal) 60 inch ST60 on Friday from Amazon. On Saturday, I got 7 blinking lights of death. Ridiculous.
post #7558 of 12396
Quote:
Originally Posted by paulpogo View Post

Hi all - Please forgive the newbie question but I am far from a video/audiophile.

Seems like an easy question.

When my TV (Panasonic VIERA TC-P50ST60) is at volume level 1, the lowest possible without being muted, it is still very loud. In a quiet house before bed, I can't believe there isn't a lower setting. I've tried looking for ways to remedy to no avail. Has anyone run into this issue and found a solution?

Really appreciate the help. Thanks.
Whats your source? Many cable boxes have audio settings. Look for an audio "Range" setting. Mine has Normal, Narrow and Wide that will affect the volume on the tv.
post #7559 of 12396
Quote:
Originally Posted by dank0723 View Post

Contrast 78 and Brightness 0 is a bit on the torchy side? Man I had the F7100 LED before I switched to the ST60, and i LOVED how bright that set was (Clouding and flashlighting SUCK). I know ST60 wont compare to LED in terms of brightness and Im breaking in my 65ST60 now using default cinema mode, which has Contrast 85 and Brightness 0 seem DULLLLL. Different eyes I guess, but I really hope I can get some decent brightness out of this set!
I don't know if I just got used to it - but after about 3 weeks of use (screen pic seemed darker than 9 y.o. plasma that died suddenly) - it suddenly seemed to have a brighter picture. I hadn't made any further change in settings.
We have been watching "Breaking Bad" - 2 Episodes a nite - on Netflix. Excellent picture. Just finished season one.
post #7560 of 12396
Quote:
Originally Posted by ab2ab View Post

What screen size is your ST60? Thanks.

It's the 60 inch.
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