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Official Panasonic TC-PxxST60 Series thread - Page 257

post #7681 of 12340
Quote:
Originally Posted by Robin Bombard View Post

Question,,, has anyone found a backlit remote that will work with the ST60? This is really the only issue I have with my 50ST60, my first plasma btw. I'm forever hitting the wrong button during evenng viewing and after reading that the ST50 came with a backlit remote, it's a damn shame the ST60 doesn't.

Just a thought,,,,

Cheers,
Robin

Panny plasmas have been using the same remote code for years. An ST50 remote should work fine.
post #7682 of 12340
I am patiently waiting for the 65ST60 that I ordered to come in (Edmonton) so I can take delivery. I am a little worried though as the only demo 65ST60 that I saw (at a different store than the store of purchase) seemed to have not one, but 3 or 4 of the vertical "jail bars" (about a half inch to an inch apart) near the right side of the screen. My failed 60GT50 had a bar around the same place but was not too problematic for me so I kept the tv.

This 65ST60 problem was horrific and very obvious and I am really wondering what kind of quality control Panasonic has?? I did not see this until after I ordered mine. If it was visible during panel manufacturing then I think that panel should have been rejected.....instead they ship it to some lucky person. I have looked at around 50 or 100 ST/GT/VT/ZT TV's at various dealers in my city the last few years and some have the bars that look worse and more obvious than others......some I could not see it at all on a mostly white picture.

After 3 problems in a row with Panasonic (rising black G15, green blob 60GT50, fans from hell 65ZT60) I think this might have to be my last try. The only problem is that there is nothing else that I want to buy but Plasma right now.......can't stand LED...and I don't trust Samsung Plasma at all.

I hope I get a problem free 65ST60 when it finally comes.......at least it does not have any fans...hopefully no buzzing.
post #7683 of 12340
Quote:
Originally Posted by raynmanas 

I'm suddenly having a problem with Netflix on this tv. Netflix works on all my other devices, and everything else (including Amazon streaming, Hulu, etc.) works fine on the tv, but when I try to open Netflix on the tv, it just thinks for a while and says "Unable to connect to Netflix. Please try again or visit www.netflix.com/tvhelp" but nothing there helps.

Does anyone know how I can fix this?
Quote:
Originally Posted by raynmanas View Post

if anyone cares or has this problem, it ended up taking a complete reset of the tv to get it back. such a great time putting all my settings back in!

Just checking back in on this. The problem continues to persist. If I completely reset my TV, I can get Netflix back to the login screen once and get back in, but as soon as I leave Netflix and try to get back in, I am unable to connect again. Occasionally I can actually get the device rest using the up-up-down-down-etc. code, but can only ever log back in the one time. I've tried all the suggested fixes by setting up network settings manually, using the recommended DNS servers, etc. but the problem comes back no matter what. I was excited to see a software update a couple weeks ago and hoped that would do the trick, but nope.

It is very frustrating, I have no other network issues with the TV or anywhere else in the house, and my Netflix works fine everywhere else. I am fairly certain it has to be a Netflix app software problem, because the Netflix build I see when I do the reset code is from mid-July, approximately when this problem started. However, neither Netflix or Panasonic are any help on the matter.

Does anyone else have this problem and/or know how to fix it??
post #7684 of 12340
Does the 65st60 output DD 5.1 via the optical cable? Just bought a Sonos playbar and it only has and optical out. Anyone now a workaround to achieve 5.1 from from tv to playbar? Thnaks
post #7685 of 12340
Quote:
Originally Posted by mstrlucky74 View Post

Does the 65st60 output DD 5.1 via the optical cable? Just bought a Sonos playbar and it only has and optical out. Anyone now a workaround to achieve 5.1 from from tv to playbar? Thnaks

You can only get 5.1 from internal sources and USB, external sources will be 2 channel PCM.
post #7686 of 12340
Quote:
Originally Posted by sawfish View Post

FWIW, I never saw rainbows the half dozen times I went to look at plasmas in two Best Buys, Sears, and HH Gregg, not even looking for it in high contrast scenes in their loops and TV programs they had on, and this includes going back after spontaneously noticing them at home, and knowing exactly what to look for. I always meant to bring a USB stick with some known bad material on it, but I never did, as I decided to keep the ST60 and try to live with it.

And "trailing" implies motion. I see it on static images as I move my eyes around, and if anything, it's at its worst with static images. This is different than what I think of as "phosphor trails", which I can differentiate from the rainbows only on certain test patterns like a white bar moving side-to-side across a black screen, and of course I see rainbow afterimages hugely in such patterns in addition to the discoloration on the leading and trailing edges of the bars (which I see only while they're moving), which is what I think of as "phosphor trails". They could have the same cause, the differing decay rates for the phosphors, but these are two pretty distinct manifestations of it if so.

Would these settings work well with the 50" ST60 and my source is for now UVerse?

Used DNice settings after break-in and is way to dark and the 'whites' are eye ball blazing.
post #7687 of 12340
So far I have ran 22 hours worth of slides and watched Aliens the night it arrived. I know that it's not the best reference, but compared to my previous LN-T4061 it looked amazing. This will be my first Walter White night with it as well. Can't wait!
post #7688 of 12340
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cleveland Plasma View Post

ST60 is worth the extra cash in my book. Overall performance is better in all aspects.
Thanks so much for your recommendation. I was tempted to drive 2 hrs to a Charlotte, NC Costco for the 50S64 at $599. Good deal, but decided the outstanding reviews for the ST60 were worth the extra $400. Long term purchase, better pic quality, more features. But local Greenville, SC Best Buy already sold out. Same at Sears. Found 4 remaining 50 inch ST60s at Best Buy in Spartanburg, SC. Quick 30 min drive and pulled the trigger. Blown away. Best TV purchase ever. Amazing, outstanding picture. Great blacks, superb contrast, vivid colors that pop. Great value at $999 for features and high quality performance. Kudos to Panasonic for offering a high end TV at a reasonable price. Not everyone can afford a VT60 or ZT60. And shame on Samsung for no longer offering a 7000/7500 series in the $899-$999 price range. Glad I got an E7000 for $899 last year, because it gives top tier performance at a more affordable price than the F8500. And the ST60 blows away the lower priced F5500. Well worth the extra $150 for the ST60 over the F5500. And while the E7000 is very nice, I still give the edge to the ST60. Great TV.
post #7689 of 12340
Quote:
Originally Posted by sawfish View Post

...

And "trailing" implies motion. I see it on static images as I move my eyes around, and if anything, it's at its worst with static images.
Your eye movement is adding motion to the static images. What you're able to see is similar to the rainbow effect that a similar sample of people could see watching DLP projected images. The two groups may overlap, but the fact that you are in one group doesn't necessarily mean you will be in the other group. Some people stop being bothered, but others move on to a different technology.

You are in a small but select group. smile.gif
post #7690 of 12340
Quote:
Originally Posted by samijubal View Post

You can only get 5.1 from internal sources and USB, external sources will be 2 channel PCM.

What do you mean exactly? Hdmi outputs 5.1
post #7691 of 12340
Quote:
Originally Posted by mstrlucky74 View Post

What do you mean exactly? Hdmi outputs 5.1

The TV will not pass 5.1 from an external source, it will downconvert it to 2 channel PCM. It's about copyrights, not what HDMI or optical is capable of.
post #7692 of 12340
Quote:
Originally Posted by mstrlucky74 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by samijubal View Post

You can only get 5.1 from internal sources and USB, external sources will be 2 channel PCM.

What do you mean exactly? Hdmi outputs 5.1
Due to copy protection rules no TV should be able to output surround sound from any source that's connected to the TV. They can output surround sound, where available, from the internal tuner, the USB port, and the internal aps like Netflix.
post #7693 of 12340
Quote:
Originally Posted by mstrlucky74 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by samijubal View Post

You can only get 5.1 from internal sources and USB, external sources will be 2 channel PCM.

What do you mean exactly? Hdmi outputs 5.1

Most TVs report themselves as 2ch devices to HDMI devices, and that's why they won't pass 5.1 over optical from HDMI devices; the devices simply don't send them 5.1. There are quite a few that do have this capability including recent LG and Sony models, however, and I linked to some reports of this here:

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1467563/official-panasonic-vt60-vt65-series-discussion-thread-no-street-price-talk/3390#post_23532289
post #7694 of 12340
Just an update, but two weeks in and there is definite burn in on my set that came from watching a 3 hour baseball game that included commercials with no logos.

I will never recommend this set to anyone.
post #7695 of 12340
Quote:
Originally Posted by tuffluck View Post

Just an update, but two weeks in and there is definite burn in on my set that came from watching a 3 hour baseball game that included commercials with no logos.

I will never recommend this set to anyone.
... and you haven't returned it?
post #7696 of 12340
Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by tuffluck View Post

Just an update, but two weeks in and there is definite burn in on my set that came from watching a 3 hour baseball game that included commercials with no logos.

I will never recommend this set to anyone.
... and you haven't returned it?
Oh I can't, I am one of the longest owners on this forum. Got it in April.
post #7697 of 12340
Quote:
Originally Posted by tuffluck View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by tuffluck View Post

Just an update, but two weeks in and there is definite burn in on my set that came from watching a 3 hour baseball game that included commercials with no logos.

I will never recommend this set to anyone.
... and you haven't returned it?
Oh I can't, I am one of the longest owners on this forum. Got it in April.
I misunderstood. I guess the information about IR wasn't of much use to you. Sorry about that.
post #7698 of 12340
Quote:
Originally Posted by tuffluck View Post

Just an update, but two weeks in and there is definite burn in on my set that came from watching a 3 hour baseball game that included commercials with no logos.

I will never recommend this set to anyone.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tuffluck View Post


Oh I can't, I am one of the longest owners on this forum. Got it in April.

How can you be only "2 weeks in" and yet have bought the set in April?
post #7699 of 12340
Saw a VT60...I know this isn't the thread but saw one at PC Richards they had a 60inch (of course in vivid mode yuck) for 1995$ I hope it stays there cuz ill drop 7-800$ bucks and finance the rest..I would just pay it but why when you get 18 months no interest...
post #7700 of 12340
Anyone have experience with PC Richards?? They took over my favorite old school place circuit city ohh how I Miss them at least they were filled with geeks who knew why they were talking about well at least mine was. So just wondering I've neer bought anything from PC Richards Before
post #7701 of 12340
Btw for anyone lookig for a good price from a brick and Mortar store check out PC Richards I was in there yesterday 8/19 they had great pricing
post #7702 of 12340
Quote:
Originally Posted by xxdavid19xx View Post

I know this has probably been asked a few times, but i keep hearing mixed results If im switching from a high end crt of its time, and i switched to a st50. Would gaming suffer? I can notice lag HUGE. I used to be in gaming compitions for sniping and other things on call of duty. Very serious gamer, would it be worth the upgrade to go to the vt60?

Or are there any better tv's are far as PQ and input lag for the price?... Just really want the st60 but if the lag is huge theres no way i can game on it

Again i notice input lag HUGE, especially coming from a crt
You apparently have done no searching for Input Lag issues.

You should check out the ST60 INPUT LAG THREAD (created because of all the lag complaints overtaking this thread) . . . . .


http://www.avsforum.com/t/1467481/official-st60-input-lag-thread
post #7703 of 12340
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob_Collins View Post


How can you be only "2 weeks in" and yet have bought the set in April?

He posted about a week back about how he had around 500 hours on his set, but he had only experienced temporary IR on it up until about six days prior, and then he got the image retention which would not go away. That would make it about two weeks now, that it has not gone away, so that is probably what he is referring to.
post #7704 of 12340
I bought my st60 last week from P.C. Richards. Was the only store that I could find that had the 55" in stock which I needed for my space.

Purchased last Monday and was delivered that Wednesday afternoon.
post #7705 of 12340
Quote:
Originally Posted by greenland View Post

He posted about a week back about how he had around 500 hours on his set, but he had only experienced temporary IR on it up until about six days prior, and then he got the image retention which would not go away. That would make it about two weeks now, that it has not gone away, so that is probably what he is referring to.

Yeah, that's right. Owned since April, IR set in two weeks ago and now after two weeks of watching other programs, the IR is still there. And in fact it has not diminished any whatsoever.

It sounds weird, but I wonder if there would be a way to completely turn off the pixels that burned in for whatever duration was required to get the same burn in on the rest of the set? Maybe that doesn't make sense, but basically just blend the burn in so no logos glare at you during normal viewing.
post #7706 of 12340
Quote:
Originally Posted by Robin Bombard View Post

Question,,, has anyone found a backlit remote that will work with the ST60? This is really the only issue I have with my 50ST60, my first plasma btw. I'm forever hitting the wrong button during evenng viewing and after reading that the ST50 came with a backlit remote, it's a damn shame the ST60 doesn't.

Just a thought,,,,

Cheers,
Robin
Don't forget there are many universal remote control apps for phones, tablets, ect ect wink.gif
post #7707 of 12340
Quote:
Originally Posted by alfa1 View Post

The software update is not critical for 2d viewing, but is definitely critical for 3d viewing!

In what ways does the upgrade improve 3D? Does it take care of the motion issues?
post #7708 of 12340
guys I am getting the ST60 shortly, very excited. I am going to follow D-Nice's break in method for 0-100 hours. I have some questions around this and other items

1) When running the break in for 0-100 hours can I watch different media (full screen) streaming movies or shows when I'm not running slides

2) Might sound like a silly question - but because the TV is going to be in my room during the break in - and I plan to run it over night, can I drape the TV with a cloth so that I can minimize the light :-p, does this screw up the tv?

3) I have a local store (Futureshop) offering to do a full callibration for $300. Is this really worth it? Can I use the settings given in other thread to self calibrate? Do I need to get additional equipment to do more detailed callibration? Is this a simple job?

4) Without using an Apple TV what is the next best way to stream content from my macbook to the TV?

5) Can someone point me to tests I can do to figure out if there are dead pixes, bleeding light issue or other such common issues exist with my monitor?

thanks
post #7709 of 12340
Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

I misunderstood. I guess the information about IR wasn't of much use to you. Sorry about that.

I wouldn't say that it was unhelpful, but all stuff I knew already. I am not suggesting you or anyone is implying this, but it seems plausible that people read my "I got burn in" posts and just assume that I abused the set in some way or another, which is completely false. From day one I was caught up on this full thread, watched the slides straight and made sure since that I have limited watching channels with logos, and when I watch sports I make sure and switch between shows every now and then so that no logo is actually fixated on the screen for the duration of any game. If there is any mistake I made, it was not limiting the contrast while watching games, which is not something that I should HAVE to do in the first place.

This method has worked fine since April. There are 162 baseball games in the season and I watched about 100 on my set before this most recent incident with either no IR resulting or IR that came off within a few hours of watching something else. But this time it stayed. I can't be more honest about my experience. Again, I'm not suggesting you or anyone else believe I am lying, but this set straight up failed me and I can assure there will be many other sets of the same model that will have similar results.

As for the burn-in removal tools, I've had them on loops for hours...days at a time in the last two weeks and they do nothing, nothing at all except annoy me when I look up and still see the burn in. I just don't see how anyone would buy this set knowing after a three hour baseball game someone got permanent burn in. Not to mention similar results happened to Cadett and a few others on here. This thread is obviously intended mostly for praising the set, but I definitely think these types of cases should be recorded.

No one in their right mind would buy a $1,500 set like this if the chance were even 20% they would get burn in from watching one sports game, or really any type of show that had lasting logos. That's why it simply shouldn't get any recommendations. The burn in has destroyed the picture quality of the set as well as the resale value. Where do you go from here?
Edited by tuffluck - 8/19/13 at 8:36am
post #7710 of 12340
Quote:
Originally Posted by utopianbl View Post

guys I am getting the ST60 shortly, very excited. I am going to follow D-Nice's break in method for 0-100 hours. I have some questions around this and other items

1) When running the break in for 0-100 hours can I watch different media (full screen) streaming movies or shows when I'm not running slides

2) Might sound like a silly question - but because the TV is going to be in my room during the break in - and I plan to run it over night, can I drape the TV with a cloth so that I can minimize the light :-p, does this screw up the tv?

3) I have a local store (Futureshop) offering to do a full callibration for $300. Is this really worth it? Can I use the settings given in other thread to self calibrate? Do I need to get additional equipment to do more detailed callibration? Is this a simple job?

4) Without using an Apple TV what is the next best way to stream content from my macbook to the TV?

5) Can someone point me to tests I can do to figure out if there are dead pixes, bleeding light issue or other such common issues exist with my monitor?

thanks

1) If you are going to run the slides, and you are doing so to be able to use d-nice's settings (which is the intended purpose), then you should follow the directions and run ONLY the slides with no other viewing until you hit at least 100 hours. If you plan to watch other content, then the only reason to use the slides would be to more quickly get some age on your panel, but all bets are off as to being able to get acceptable quality from d-nice's posted settings.

2) Plasmas produce a bit of heat, I wouldn't want to cover it with a cloth. I'd recommend putting the set in another room and letting the slides run for the full time you want, again if you plan on trying to use the posted settings.

3) Only you can decide if a pro callibration is worth it to you. Everyone in the threads that have had it done claim it is/was worth it (from a professional calibrator, but I don't know of anyone who had it done by Futureshop), to them. To get the most use from, and best chance at getting acceptable quality from the D-Nice settings, you need to follow his instructions exactly. Deviation from his instructions means the results might not be optimal. If you want to truly calibrate your set, you'll need a pattern source, a meter, and software. It can be a steep learning curve to know the ins & outs of proper calibration, but it is not "rocket science" in terms of complexity.

4) I don't believe in Apple products, so I can't offer any help there.

5) Running the slides and looking the screen over as each color is displayed should allow you to see dead pixels. Be aware however that sometimes dust or stray packing material can get on the screen and make you think you have dead pixels (it happened to me, I thought I had a few dead pixels within a couple inches square, section of the screen on my set, but then I brushed them away with a clean lint-free cloth).
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