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Official Panasonic TC-PxxST60 Series thread - Page 258

post #7711 of 12340
Quote:
Originally Posted by tuffluck View Post


This method has worked fine since April. There are 162 baseball games in the season and I watched about 100 on my set before this most recent incident with either no IR resulting or IR that came off within a few hours of watching something else. But this time it stayed. I can't be more honest about my experience. Again, I'm not suggesting you or anyone else believe I am lying, but this set straight up failed me and I can assure there will be many other sets of the same model that will have similar results.

As for the burn-in removal tools, I've had them on loops for hours...days at a time in the last two weeks and they do nothing, nothing at all except annoy me when I look up and still see the burn in. I just don't see how anyone would buy this set knowing after a three hour baseball game someone got permanent burn in. Not to mention similar results happened to Cadett and a few others on here. This thread is obviously intended mostly for praising the set, but I definitely think these types of cases should be recorded.

No one in their right mind would buy a $1,500 set like this if the chance were even 20% they would get burn in from watching one sports game, or really any type of show that had lasting logos. That's why it simply shouldn't get any recommendations. The burn in has destroyed the picture quality of the set as well as the resale value. Where do you go from here?
IF our 8-9 y.o. Panny Plasma had waited 2 more months to die and I had seen more of these IR and "burn-in" complaints - probably would not have bought this and spent the extra buck$ for a VT model. (We have the 60"ST.) Bought the ST because of the review here AND CNET. That said, I have probably watched 40-50 baseball games along with lots of CNN and Netflix. No problems (yet!). We didn't do the breakin procedures that are suggested on this thread. Did change some of the settings per suggestions given on the thread.
Our old Panny was never babied. The screen was as good on the last day as the first. (50" last model before HDMI came out.) Just some electronics died. We ve a 5 y.o. Panny plasma that was never babied in other home (50"). No problems.

It never occurred to me that one particular model would have a problem. When "experts" like Cadett have problems (and he babied his) - that means there are real problems. My only complaint with this panel was its ugly appearance. (Shiny bezel and highly reflective silver border.)
post #7712 of 12340
Quote:
Originally Posted by tuffluck View Post

Yeah, that's right. Owned since April, IR set in two weeks ago and now after two weeks of watching other programs, the IR is still there. And in fact it has not diminished any whatsoever.

It sounds weird, but I wonder if there would be a way to completely turn off the pixels that burned in for whatever duration was required to get the same burn in on the rest of the set? Maybe that doesn't make sense, but basically just blend the burn in so no logos glare at you during normal viewing.

I am not aware of how one could turn off the pixels in just the region where the image is persisting. I recall that in the past, some people said that when a set was exhibiting some retention of an image, it was actually better to just turn the set off and shut off the power for a day or so, in order to let the residual discharge dissipate. I have never had to deal with such a problem, so I can't say if that works or not. Of course if you have tried to get rid of it for around two weeks already, it may be too late to try doing that now. It still might be worth trying, and it will not make it any worse, so if it was my tv, I would give it a shot.
post #7713 of 12340
Quote:
Originally Posted by snidely View Post

IF our 8-9 y.o. Panny Plasma had waited 2 more months to die and I had seen more of these IR and "burn-in" complaints - probably would not have bought this and spent the extra buck$ for a VT model. (We have the 60"ST.) Bought the ST because of the review here AND CNET. That said, I have probably watched 40-50 baseball games along with lots of CNN and Netflix. No problems (yet!). We didn't do the breakin procedures that are suggested on this thread. Did change some of the settings per suggestions given on the thread.
Our old Panny was never babied. The screen was as good on the last day as the first. (50" last model before HDMI came out.) Just some electronics died. We ve a 5 y.o. Panny plasma that was never babied in other home (50"). No problems.

It never occurred to me that one particular model would have a problem. When "experts" like Cadett have problems (and he babied his) - that means there are real problems. My only complaint with this panel was its ugly appearance. (Shiny bezel and highly reflective silver border.)

Actually Cadett said that he regrets that he used the set so aggressively at the outset, instead of breaking it carefully, and when I asked him if he had to do it again, would he not have purchased the model, and he said that he still would purchase it, and that the image has faded to the point that he has to walk up very close to the set to even see any traces of it, and he still considers it to be a terrific value.
post #7714 of 12340
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob_Collins View Post

1) If you are going to run the slides, and you are doing so to be able to use d-nice's settings (which is the intended purpose), then you should follow the directions and run ONLY the slides with no other viewing until you hit at least 100 hours. If you plan to watch other content, then the only reason to use the slides would be to more quickly get some age on your panel, but all bets are off as to being able to get acceptable quality from d-nice's posted settings.

2) Plasmas produce a bit of heat, I wouldn't want to cover it with a cloth. I'd recommend putting the set in another room and letting the slides run for the full time you want, again if you plan on trying to use the posted settings.

3) Only you can decide if a pro callibration is worth it to you. Everyone in the threads that have had it done claim it is/was worth it (from a professional calibrator, but I don't know of anyone who had it done by Futureshop), to them. To get the most use from, and best chance at getting acceptable quality from the D-Nice settings, you need to follow his instructions exactly. Deviation from his instructions means the results might not be optimal. If you want to truly calibrate your set, you'll need a pattern source, a meter, and software. It can be a steep learning curve to know the ins & outs of proper calibration, but it is not "rocket science" in terms of complexity.

4) I don't believe in Apple products, so I can't offer any help there.

5) Running the slides and looking the screen over as each color is displayed should allow you to see dead pixels. Be aware however that sometimes dust or stray packing material can get on the screen and make you think you have dead pixels (it happened to me, I thought I had a few dead pixels within a couple inches square, section of the screen on my set, but then I brushed them away with a clean lint-free cloth).

how many times can I thank you for this? every question (barring 1 ;-)) answered so generously. thank you.

Anyone can help me with my streaming question - can I use chromecast?

I read somewhere the ST60 can play a host of the popular media files. I am guessing this is if you connect a hard disk directly into one of the ports.
post #7715 of 12340
Quote:
Originally Posted by tuffluck View Post

Again, I'm not suggesting you or anyone else believe I am lying, but this set straight up failed me and I can assure there will be many other sets of the same model that will have similar results.

No one in their right mind would buy a $1,500 set like this if the chance were even 20% they would get burn in from watching one sports game, or really any type of show that had lasting logo.

I'd say "many" is an overstatement and no way is there anywhere near a 20% chance or this thread would be full of nothing but burn-in complaints. Fact is there's two people in 258 pages saying they have burn-in, that's FAR from many or a 20% chance. I feel for you spending that much money and having what happened to you happen but you keep putting this TV down like every panel has the potential to do what happened to you which isn't true. You just got very unlucky with a bad panel, which could happen to anyone, but it's by far the exception, not the rule.

I'm beginning to wonder if it is the larger TVs are more prone to IR as has been suggested in this thread before. I've still yet to see someone with a 50" complain of IR problems.
post #7716 of 12340
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cleveland Plasma View Post

Don't forget there are many universal remote control apps for phones, tablets, ect ect wink.gif


I'm retired, on a fixed income, and have never owned (or even used) a mobile phone or tablet. I was looking for the cheapest way to see a ST60 remote in a dark viewing room. I didn't know that many Panny remotes use the same codes so a ST50 remote looked like the way to go. But after looking at all the options, I decided to take Randy Walters advise and have ordered a used URC-R40 (on the cheap) to replace 7 other remotes. It's more than I wanted to spend but it seems like I'll never be in need for another remote in my lifetime and I like the fact that it not only iights up in a dark room but will auto shutoff if left on,,,,, if I had a dollar for every time I've wedged a remote in my recliner or buried it under mags and killed the batteries,,,,,,,,,

For Tuffluck, what a spot-on username. I've had my Panny since 3rd week in April, ran D-Nice's slideshow 12.5 days for 300 straight hours, absolutely love D-Nices Custom picture settings and haven't even thought of IR or burn-in til reading about it happennng to others. I use a DirecTV DVR and just recently found the DirecTV logo in the upper right hand corner from constant use of the DVR's menu & guide. I doubt I would have ever seen it if I hadn't been looking for it but now that I have, I now keep the Pixel Orbiter on and I'm constantly running the Screen Wipe when it's convenient and that seems to have taken care of my IR. I'm surprised that with all the IR talk, using the Panny's Screen Wipe isn't suggested more often. I'll be using mine daily from now on as part of my plasma wellness program, so I don't run into "tuffluck" down the road. I love my 1st Panny plasma too much and I want it to be my last TV purchase. Edit: my plasma is a 50ST60 so IR is definitely a possiblity

Thanks again for all the remote control suggestions! smile.gif

Cheers,
Robin
Edited by Robin Bombard - 8/19/13 at 11:43am
post #7717 of 12340
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob_Collins View Post


2) Plasmas produce a bit of heat, I wouldn't want to cover it with a cloth. I'd recommend putting the set in another room and letting the slides run for the full time you want, again if you plan on trying to use the posted settings.

I agree with this & what I did was put the box that the ST60 came in from & park it right in front of teh screen.
This effectively shut down most light.
post #7718 of 12340
Quote:
Originally Posted by tripleM View Post

I agree with this & what I did was put the box that the ST60 came in from & park it right in front of teh screen.
This effectively shut down most light.

HEY, I did the same thing while breaking in my Panny in the bedroom next to my bed. I only used the box when sleeping but it worked like a charm.
post #7719 of 12340
I'm not sure if it has been mentioned before on this thread (went through, but didn't see) on the ABL (automatic brightness control) for the ST 60, but has anyone had any grievances with it on their set? I have had my 60" for about 2 weeks now and noticed when all white screens come up (apple commericals, xbox 360 power on graphic) it brings down the luminance of the the white color to a dull grey/white. I first picked up on it when I was running some prepping slides to age my phosphors evenly that the white slide would come up kind of grey. The preview of the JPEG would show a white slide, but when it goes to full screen it is toned down to a dulll /greywhite. I know there is another thread on this regarding plasma ABL but haven't caught any discussion on the ST60. I was wanting to see if others have experienced this with their ST60 and make sure my set isn't some abnormal freak that is overly correcting.
post #7720 of 12340
Quote:
Originally Posted by Robin Bombard View Post

Edit: my plasma is a 50ST60 so IR is definitely a possiblity

Any plasma will get IR if static images are left on the screen long enough. IR and burn-in are two different things though. Normal IR will go away within an hour or two max of normal TV viewing without static images, in my experience at least. I've seen some IR on my older plasmas after long game sessions but it goes away fast with normal viewing. My ST60 is far less prone to IR than my 5 and 6 year old plasmas are. I've done game sessions on my ST60 that would have left a small amount of IR on my older TVs without getting any on the new one. I've never used any screen wipe or anything else, never needed to.
post #7721 of 12340
Have a 50ST60:

Ran 'breakin" as perscribed per the early threads. Adjusted all per the DNIce settings. My primary feed is UVerse. [Coming from a 5080 Kuro]

1) Whites way bright,

2) Bit of saturation - colors seen accurate so far.

3. Shadow detail - ok, very black ....would perfer a bit 'lighter?

Please give me suggestions on how to 'reel' the settings in.
post #7722 of 12340
Quote:
Originally Posted by dannov View Post

Have a 50ST60:

Ran 'breakin" as perscribed per the early threads. Adjusted all per the DNIce settings. My primary feed is UVerse. [Coming from a 5080 Kuro]

1) Whites way bright,

2) Bit of saturation - colors seen accurate so far.

3. Shadow detail - ok, very black ....would perfer a bit 'lighter?

Please give me suggestions on how to 'reel' the settings in.

I would reset to default factory settings & just play around with the non-gamma settings.
Plugging other people's settings is like applying their paint to your walls without knowing what kind of light you have.

Cyberi's settings here will help you get started & he has some really good advice - don't touch anything you know nothing about!
post #7723 of 12340
Quote:
Originally Posted by utopianbl View Post

how many times can I thank you for this? every question (barring 1 ;-)) answered so generously. thank you.

Anyone can help me with my streaming question - can I use chromecast?

I read somewhere the ST60 can play a host of the popular media files. I am guessing this is if you connect a hard disk directly into one of the ports.

I've used Chromecast (trial use) a couple times from my Android tablet. It works with the only 2 apps "buillt in" to it - Netflix and Youtube. I couldn't get it to do anything else - but didn't try hard. The Netflix app is somewhat useless for us ST60 owners - since the built in Netflix app and controls on the ST60 remote do it all. There is a Chromecast "group" here on AVS - not very active. I'll play around with it again in the next few days.
I wanted to watch/stream program a friend of mine was on (called "Food Rush"). I missed the broadcast so logged on to the program's site, plugged in a Monoprice Redmere HDMI cable to the computer and to HDMI 3 - worked fine. I'll try ad see if I can do something like that w. Chromecast.
If Chromecast can't mirror everything you can do on computer and/or tablet/phone - don't see a future for it.

Forgot to add: The Netflix quality via Chromecast as poor. Didn't bother to retest. Netflix via ST60 is HD quality (as it was via our BD Player). Youtube seemed ok, but I don't think it was as good as hard-wired. will report back in a few days.
post #7724 of 12340
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob_Collins View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by tuffluck View Post

Just an update, but two weeks in and there is definite burn in on my set that came from watching a 3 hour baseball game that included commercials with no logos.

I will never recommend this set to anyone.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tuffluck View Post


Oh I can't, I am one of the longest owners on this forum. Got it in April.

How can you be only "2 weeks in" and yet have bought the set in April?
As I now recall, tuffluck got the set in April, found what he thought was burn-in two weeks ago after watching a baseball game, and is now sure that is what happened.

It seems much too early to come to the conclusion that he doesn't have longer term image retention, but there is no way to be sure. If it is burn-in, it's the worst case I've ever read about.
post #7725 of 12340
Quote:
Originally Posted by tuffluck View Post


It sounds weird, but I wonder if there would be a way to completely turn off the pixels that burned in for whatever duration was required to get the same burn in on the rest of the set? Maybe that doesn't make sense, but basically just blend the burn in so no logos glare at you during normal viewing.
None of the above is possible. Random images will do the job given enough time.

I may not have these numbers right so correct me. At the time you noticed the retained image you had about 500 hours on the set. In one of the posts today you mentioned watching about 100 baseball games since you got the ST60. You didn't say, but would that have been mostly on the same channel with the same images that's now on your screen?

If baseball games average more than three hours per game, that would mean that the majority of your programming material was baseball (~300 hours out of 500 hours), and possibly a lot of that on the same channel with the same fixed image. It makes me think that your problem could have been building for some time before you noticed it.

For football, I'm forced to watch different channels for NFL football because of the way they write their TV contracts. Maybe baseball is a more dangerous sport to follow closely.

I don't have much faith in the IR removal tools, but that's not based on personal experience. In your situation I would just play a selection of 1.78::1 aspect ratio movie in a loop during times when I wasn't watching the set. My aim would be random aging for the whole screen.
Edited by htwaits - 8/19/13 at 3:14pm
post #7726 of 12340
What if he perfectly captured an image of the score bug on the Rangers' network, goes into Photoshop and inverts the colors, then makes "color slides" that go all around that area as he runs slides?

Maybe that's dangerous, I'm not sure. Seems to be a bit of a counteracting agent, though.
post #7727 of 12340
Bear with me, here. What if you did this?

Take an image (as close to what's burned in as possible, from the bug outline to the team names to the score to who's on base, or at least blur the lines of those):





Then crop out and invert the score bug while running color slides in the background, like so:















Don't quote me on this working, but I'd think this could work to counteract what's there. Maybe not, though?
post #7728 of 12340
Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

None of the above is possible. Random images will do the job given enough time.

I may not have these numbers right so correct me. At the time you noticed the retained image you had about 500 hours on the set. In one of the posts today you mentioned watching about 100 baseball games since you got the ST60. You didn't say, but would that have been mostly on the same channel with the same images that's now on your screen?

If baseball games average more than three hours per game, that would mean that the majority of your programming material was baseball (~300 hours out of 500 hours), and possibly a lot of that on the same channel with the same fixed image. It makes me think that your problem could have been building for some time before you noticed it.

For football, I'm forced to watch different channels for NFL football because of the way they write their TV contracts. Maybe baseball is a more dangerous sport to follow closely.

I don't have much faith in the IR removal tools, but that's not based on personal experience. In your situation I would just play a selection of 1.78::1 aspect ratio movie in a loop during times when I wasn't watching the set. My aim would be random aging for the whole screen.

So you're suggesting static images compounded over time could produce burn in? I don't buy that. If you have a set that has 10,000 hours and your favorite channel is Discovery, you've surely watched more Discovery than I have baseball games, so you should have a big "D" in the bottom right hand corner of your screen, which we don't hear about too often. I've always understood the definition of IR to be leaving static images on for long continuous durations of time. This is why I thought you guys always mentioned watching other programming after you see IR to wipe it...if it were compounded over time, the suggestion should be to never watch said channels again...

The other thing worth mentioning is that I have seen IR on my screen after watching games before. I would run the slides back on the set and see exactly where the IR was, then watch TV for a day or two and turn the set back on the slides and then everything had disappeared. The actual image that is burned in now was never an IR issue--it was always the scrolling bar outlines at the bottom. I never saw the "Texas Rangers Fox Sports" logo embedded in the IR, even though it has been on every game. This was a freak incident as far as I can tell, but honestly it is possible this was there other times and I just didn't see it.

Lastly I think it's worth mentioning that the day this image was extremely obvious after watching the game, everything was IR'ing very intensely. I left the Denon Mute button on for about 5 minutes (it shows up as a blue mute icon in the bottom right corner of the TV). That mute button was stuck on the screen for at least 2 hours, and that was after only 5 minutes of viewing. The other thing worth noting here is that the only thing that has seemed to not go away is the "Texas Rangers Fox Sports" logo. The score in the upper left hand corner went away, and the borders to the scrolling bar went away at the bottom. The logo in the upper right hand corner has not gone away or diminished any whatsoever over time. Hard to believe the other images went away, it's almost like something was specifically wrong in that upper right hand quadrant of the set.

Something happened to this set during that day of watching that made it horribly prone to IR/burn in, and I have no idea what it was. The only thing that comes to mind is that I was on vacation the 5 days before I came home and watched TV that day. Now I watched other programming, but maybe leaving the set off for a long period of time was bad for it?
Quote:
Originally Posted by muffinmcfluffin View Post

Bear with me, here. What if you did this?

Take an image (as close to what's burned in as possible, from the bug outline to the team names to the score to who's on base, or at least blur the lines of those):





Then crop out and invert the score bug while running color slides in the background, like so:















Don't quote me on this working, but I'd think this could work to counteract what's there. Maybe not, though?

Cool idea. Anyone think that would work? It seems to me like that would just cause more burn in of the same image though.
post #7729 of 12340
Maybe when turning the set first on its best to avoid logos and static images for like 30 minutes or so while the phosphors warm up?
post #7730 of 12340
Quote:
Originally Posted by garnettrules21 View Post

Maybe when turning the set first on its best to avoid logos and static images for like 30 minutes or so while the phosphors warm up?

I watched it for a few hours before the game.
post #7731 of 12340
Quote:
Originally Posted by tuffluck View Post

I watched it for a few hours before the game.
Well there goes that theory lol.
post #7732 of 12340
I just got my panasonic S60 series tv today. It will not let me put my netflix login information in. It keeps saying ERROR CANNOT CONNECT TO NETFLIX. I am connected to the Internet and my amazon video account works so I know it is not the connection. I deactivated the account, unplugged the tv and tried everything I could find on the Internet. Does anyone have any other ideas? Please help!
post #7733 of 12340
Quote:
Originally Posted by tuffluck View Post

So you're suggesting static images compounded over time could produce burn in? I don't buy that. If you have a set that has 10,000 hours and your favorite channel is Discovery, you've surely watched more Discovery than I have baseball games, so you should have a big "D" in the bottom right hand corner of your screen, which we don't hear about too often. I've always understood the definition of IR to be leaving static images on for long continuous durations of time. This is why I thought you guys always mentioned watching other programming after you see IR to wipe it...if it were compounded over time, the suggestion should be to never watch said channels again...

The other thing worth mentioning is that I have seen IR on my screen after watching games before. I would run the slides back on the set and see exactly where the IR was, then watch TV for a day or two and turn the set back on the slides and then everything had disappeared. The actual image that is burned in now was never an IR issue--it was always the scrolling bar outlines at the bottom. I never saw the "Texas Rangers Fox Sports" logo embedded in the IR, even though it has been on every game. This was a freak incident as far as I can tell, but honestly it is possible this was there other times and I just didn't see it.

Lastly I think it's worth mentioning that the day this image was extremely obvious after watching the game, everything was IR'ing very intensely. I left the Denon Mute button on for about 5 minutes (it shows up as a blue mute icon in the bottom right corner of the TV). That mute button was stuck on the screen for at least 2 hours, and that was after only 5 minutes of viewing. The other thing worth noting here is that the only thing that has seemed to not go away is the "Texas Rangers Fox Sports" logo. The score in the upper left hand corner went away, and the borders to the scrolling bar went away at the bottom. The logo in the upper right hand corner has not gone away or diminished any whatsoever over time. Hard to believe the other images went away, it's almost like something was specifically wrong in that upper right hand quadrant of the set.

Something happened to this set during that day of watching that made it horribly prone to IR/burn in, and I have no idea what it was. The only thing that comes to mind is that I was on vacation the 5 days before I came home and watched TV that day. Now I watched other programming, but maybe leaving the set off for a long period of time was bad for it?
Cool idea. Anyone think that would work? It seems to me like that would just cause more burn in of the same image though.

Well, you'd have to wonder whether your "burn in" is a result of something white on the screen having "aged" more than the rest of the panel, so if you now feed it a black image, that means everything else is aging and catching up to it. And so on and so forth...

Again, it's only a theory and that would mean you would have to capture something perfectly and crop it out perfectly, but at this point I'm really not sure if you have anything to lose. Maybe try at least 3 hours, just like your baseball game. But I could be way off-base here.

Oh, and with the first thing you asked, that's definitely something you'll want to buy. Uneven wear is uneven wear. It doesn't all have to be at one time. Burn-in (or long-term IR) is from the set being uneven in terms of aging. That's why you don't want to watch pillar-box or letter-box content early on. You'll end up like our old plasma that has lighter sides from watching so many stations running in 4:3. It's not just from a one-time occurrence.

There's a difference between IR and uneven wear (which I tend to call "burn-in," but that might not be incredibly accurate). IR is an image staying on screen after having just watched something. Uneven wear is the long-term aging of pixels in a manner separate from your other pixels.
post #7734 of 12340
was just reading the zt60 thread and someone was questioning if they received a open box unit sold as new.

My unit had the clear sticker along the bezel and a energy star sticker on the bottom right but I didnt have the large sticker on the top left that I have seen on other new units.

not sure if the batteries were already in the remote because the delivery guys were setting it up pretty quickly. 3d glasses were in original packaging. Want to make sure I received a new unit before the return period in case any issues pop up. I have read u can check hrs in the service menu but I dont want to hot anything that will void warranty.
post #7735 of 12340
Quote:
Originally Posted by tuffluck View Post


So you're suggesting static images compounded over time could produce burn in? I don't buy that.
OK. smile.gif
post #7736 of 12340
Quote:
Originally Posted by Robin Bombard View Post

I'm retired, on a fixed income, and have never owned (or even used) a mobile phone or tablet. I was looking for the cheapest way to see a ST60 remote in a dark viewing room. I didn't know that many Panny remotes use the same codes so a ST50 remote looked like the way to go. But after looking at all the options, I decided to take Randy Walters advise and have ordered a used URC-R40 (on the cheap) to replace 7 other remotes. It's more than I wanted to spend but it seems like I'll never be in need for another remote in my lifetime and I like the fact that it not only iights up in a dark room but will auto shutoff if left on,,,,, if I had a dollar for every time I've wedged a remote in my recliner or buried it under mags and killed the batteries,,,,,,,,,

Congrats on the remote choice wink.gif

If you're not aware of it there is a URC R40 thread: http://www.avsforum.com/t/1384297/official-urc-r40-thread

And another on Remote Central: http://www.remotecentral.com/cgi-bin/mboard/rc-master/thread.cgi?11690

FWIW, if you wedge the R40 in your recliner the keys will remain lit up till the batteries die. They only go dark AFTER your last button press like other lighted remotes do, but they all remain lit as long as i hold any button down (i just tested it for a few minutes).
post #7737 of 12340
One thing I really like about the Harmony is that it will light when you pick it up without hitting any button and you can set the amount of time that the light stays on.
post #7738 of 12340
Quote:
Originally Posted by tripleM View Post

I would reset to default factory settings & just play around with the non-gamma settings.
Plugging other people's settings is like applying their paint to your walls without knowing what kind of light you have.

Cyberi's settings here will help you get started & he has some really good advice - don't touch anything you know nothing about!
The ambient light is dark-bedroom with shades facing south. I did notice when using sat.[DTV] to uverse my 5080 got darker, Why to many settings for me to 'play' with. Would like to tone down the aforementioned nuisances - any ideas?
post #7739 of 12340
Quote:
Originally Posted by dannov View Post

The ambient light is dark-bedroom with shades facing south. I did notice when using sat.[DTV] to uverse my 5080 got darker, Why to many settings for me to 'play' with. Would like to tone down the aforementioned nuisances - any ideas?

Thought i was posting and including a quote from another.
post #7740 of 12340
Quote:
Originally Posted by Indy60 View Post

I want to thank everyone who has contributed to this thread. It has been great reading about this TV and your experiences with it. I know HTwaits has a list of calibrators in his signature, but has anyone found a good calibrator in the Montreal area? One that you have hired and are happy with?

Michael Chen lives in Calgary and does road trips. He has mentioned October/November and I am on his mailing list. http://www.tlvexp.ca/events/

He had calibrated my NEC plasma many years ago and I was satisfied with the results and his explanations.
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