AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › DIY Speakers and Subs › Lilmike's LilWrecker
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Lilmike's LilWrecker - Page 8

post #211 of 249
I am in the process of throwing together a few F20's and had great success with the drywall anchors.
post #212 of 249
Quote:
Originally Posted by lilmike View Post

I didn't use hurricanes this time.

I used inserts on this build. These seem to have worked well.

I drilled proper holes (using the driver as a template), then degreased the inserts with a little acetone, then glued them up with a little PL and screwed them into place from the back side of the baffle before I assembled anything. I'll probably use epoxy or poly glue rather than PL next time.

Honestly? I am not 100% sure the inserts are needed, we're working with 3/4" thick material, not 1/2", so there should be ample material for typical screw threads to do their thing.


I used inserts DSCF2226.jpg 2465k .jpg file
post #213 of 249
I have been thinking about upgrading my router and was looking at getting a more precise depth gauge. In saying that I was going to use the depth gauge for cutting out sections of a horn enclosure so that the panels fit nice and snug. PLUS this will ensure air tight fit with the addition of adhesive. My only question is how deep should I go?

I have seen Danleys DTS-10 kit in pictures and really liked how everything fit together. With me building more TH's soon I am thinking that this would be best for me. I will also build a jig for the TH to make routing quicker.

And so far I am liking my Micro's responsive bass better than my 21" sealed sub. Yes there are times when I like the 21 better but for the most part was really impressed with the way this sounds.
post #214 of 249
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by chrapladm View Post

I have been thinking about upgrading my router and was looking at getting a more precise depth gauge. In saying that I was going to use the depth gauge for cutting out sections of a horn enclosure so that the panels fit nice and snug. PLUS this will ensure air tight fit with the addition of adhesive. My only question is how deep should I go?

Don't do it. Without a CNC, in my opinion, dadoing the sides is a fool's errand. I have tried. Those were my first leaky horns...

Also - keep in mind that the depth comes off the panel width - which will throw off the panel utilization if you adjust sheet width to compensate.
Quote:
Originally Posted by chrapladm View Post

I have seen Danleys DTS-10 kit in pictures and really liked how everything fit together. With me building more TH's soon I am thinking that this would be best for me. I will also build a jig for the TH to make routing quicker.

Jigs will flex. If you make one that doesn't flex, the amount of work needed to complete all of the incomplete dadoes will take more time than the effort is worth.
Quote:
Originally Posted by chrapladm View Post

And so far I am liking my Micro's responsive bass better than my 21" sealed sub. Yes there are times when I like the 21 better but for the most part was really impressed with the way this sounds.

Give it some proper EQ.
post #215 of 249
Thanks Mike. These were just thoughts I had. I was thinking that having the inside panels recessed a 1/4" would have been better was all. But I could do something similar with flooring quad on the inside edges for a guide instead. Either way I need to get a few newer tools that are better at cutting straight. Straight edge guides seem so expensive but I am liking them more and more lately.

After adding Audyssey EQ the sub did sound a LOT better than first trying it out. Almost everything I listened to I kept thinking that the room is full of bass and the sub must be flexing a bit. Then realized the SWS was maybe moving 6mm. biggrin.gif And I do miss the sound of a horn. Just love the airy tactile performance of this sub compared to my sealed. Audyssey had the sub turned down to -9.5db and my mains -5db. Is that because when I turn the volume up to 0 that is reference for the speakers the way they are set now?
post #216 of 249
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by chrapladm View Post

Thanks Mike. These were just thoughts I had. I was thinking that having the inside panels recessed a 1/4" would have been better was all. But I could do something similar with flooring quad on the inside edges for a guide instead. Either way I need to get a few newer tools that are better at cutting straight. Straight edge guides seem so expensive but I am liking them more and more lately.

While it seems like a great idea, dadoing the panels in place is a real challenge without CNC. Having tried it several times, I can assure you that it isn't so great in the implementation. Assembling one side is easy. Lining up the other side and having everything drop into place is not. Since PL is less expensive and easier for me to fit into my shop than a 4X8 CNC table, I work with PL. Sure, I'd love a CNC, but there is nowhere I could park it at the moment.

As far as new tools? It is hard to explain. Once you start working with proper straight-edge guides, you'll understand. For what they do, they are not expensive at all. I know the cut line will be straight, and if the guide is on the mark, the cut will be too. My tablesaw was expensive. My tracksaw system is invaluable. I can't quite bring myself to sell the tablesaw, but I am finding ways not to use it. My tracksaw is nowhere near perfect, but I am finding ways to make it better and do more with it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by chrapladm View Post

After adding Audyssey EQ the sub did sound a LOT better than first trying it out. Almost everything I listened to I kept thinking that the room is full of bass and the sub must be flexing a bit. Then realized the SWS was maybe moving 6mm. biggrin.gif And I do miss the sound of a horn. Just love the airy tactile performance of this sub compared to my sealed. Audyssey had the sub turned down to -9.5db and my mains -5db. Is that because when I turn the volume up to 0 that is reference for the speakers the way they are set now?

Glad you like the sound. Efficiency counts.

As far as what Audyssey is doing, I have no idea. I've never used Audyssey. I should try it one of these days.
I manually EQ my sub and set the levels to where things sound "right". I think that's correct as far as the relative levels though.
Edited by lilmike - 3/27/13 at 2:30pm
post #217 of 249
I'm picking up my plywood tomorrow. I don't have an indoor space where I can cut and it is supposed to rain most of the weekend. I don't know if my plan of building this sub this weekend is really going to work out.
post #218 of 249
Made some saw dust. Now I'm measuring/tracing out the internal path. That'll be it for tonight though.

Untitled by chilort, on Flickr
post #219 of 249
I now have a stack of cut lumber. I need to window my braces and make the hole for the woofer.

I'm using the Alpine. What do you use for gasket material?
post #220 of 249
Thread Starter 
Duct Seal.

You can find it in the electrical aisle at Lowes or Home Depot, but it is usually on the bottom shelf and all dusty.

Works great, never hardens, and completely removable.
post #221 of 249
Cut wood. Some assembly tomorrow.


Untitled by chilort, on Flickr
post #222 of 249
Hey lilmike, I am thinking about building two of these paired with some of bill fitmaurice's tlah's in a big metal garage. It will be essentially a big "party barn" so i will be playing music mostly, but i will also have a projector for movies. The garage is about 50ft by 30ft. I am planning on using bales of straw around the perimeter 8ft high to help insulate the room and hopefully keep the sound inside. Would these perform well in that large of a room? I will be using the type s drivers off of a behringer ep2500.
post #223 of 249
Quote:
Originally Posted by mwerling1212 View Post

Hey lilmike, I am thinking about building two of these paired with some of bill fitmaurice's tlah's in a big metal garage. It will be essentially a big "party barn" so i will be playing music mostly, but i will also have a projector for movies. The garage is about 50ft by 30ft. I am planning on using bales of straw around the perimeter 8ft high to help insulate the room and hopefully keep the sound inside. Would these perform well in that large of a room? I will be using the type s drivers off of a behringer ep2500.

Acoustics aside, that sounds like a fire trap.

Tim
post #224 of 249
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mwerling1212 View Post

Hey lilmike, I am thinking about building two of these paired with some of bill fitmaurice's tlah's in a big metal garage. It will be essentially a big "party barn" so i will be playing music mostly, but i will also have a projector for movies. The garage is about 50ft by 30ft. I am planning on using bales of straw around the perimeter 8ft high to help insulate the room and hopefully keep the sound inside. Would these perform well in that large of a room? I will be using the type s drivers off of a behringer ep2500.

No idea. I've only heard them in a theater setting.
Putting them in the corners might help, but I'm not sure straw bales will create an effective boundary.
post #225 of 249
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Tim View Post

Acoustics aside, that sounds like a fire trap.

Tim

No worse than my kitchen table, wood bookshelves, couch, bed, .... pretty much the entire house actually.
post #226 of 249
I did my best to screw it up while building it but I think I may have been successful.

First couple of bits"

Untitled by chilort, on Flickr

Ready for the woofer:

Untitled by chilort, on Flickr

Woofer in:

Untitled by chilort, on Flickr

Now to wait for glue to dry:

Untitled by chilort, on Flickr

The only thing I'm worried about is that I did a pretty poor job with lining up the bracing. It isn't all exactly on the center line:

Untitled by chilort, on Flickr

I have to say, at one point I was ready to quit. My lumber was more warped than it probably should have been but I just kept pressing on. I think between the PL and the braces it all pulled back into spot or will be filled.

Cannot wait until I have time to hook it to an amp after it dries.
post #227 of 249
Quote:
Originally Posted by chilort View Post

No worse than my kitchen table, wood bookshelves, couch, bed, .... pretty much the entire house actually.

When you compare the ignition temperature and flame spread, it is worse, actually. A lot worse.

Throw a match on your kitchen table, wood bookshelves, couch, bed. Then stand in a metal building and throw a match on 8' tall straw bales. The Station has nothing on that setup.

Tim
post #228 of 249
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Tim View Post

When you compare the ignition temperature and flame spread, it is worse, actually. A lot worse.

Throw a match on your kitchen table, wood bookshelves, couch, bed. Then stand in a metal building and throw a match on 8' tall straw bales. The Station has nothing on that setup.

Tim

Sorry. I had a little wit lag. I thought you meant the speaker was a fire trap. Yes, straw goes up very quickly.
post #229 of 249
The more I see others building these LW I am going to have to to build one soon. Great looking build chilort.
post #230 of 249
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Tim View Post

Acoustics aside, that sounds like a fire trap.

Tim
Sounds like your typical shed/barn. Barns filled with hay bales, from what I remember, should have some pretty good sound absorbing capabilities. Way less echo than your typical living room. However, those floors were also dirt and covered in a lot of loose straw too.
post #231 of 249
I would hope that all would be fine if you had a designated smoking area a good distance away from the main barn, although I doubt that people will want to take notice of it lol
post #232 of 249
I don't have my miniDSP in line yet, so for now, I'm being careful.



But ...





T H A N K ---- Y O U ---- L I L M I K E ! ! ! ! !
post #233 of 249
What kind of power handling can the LMS-R 15 take in this TH? (Lil wrecker, not micro)

I have an IPR-1600 that will feed it ~1600 watts, and a minidsp for the rolloff...
post #234 of 249
Thread Starter 
In this cabinet, with a 4th order highpass at 15 Hz, the LMS-R 15 should take all the IPR 1600 can deliver (dual 2 or bridged 4) without any issues. Using the small-signal parameters, a kilowatt takes things to ~xmax, the amp's rated maximum power gets close to the mechanical limits.
post #235 of 249
Quote:
Originally Posted by lilmike View Post

In this cabinet, with a 4th order highpass at 15 Hz, the LMS-R 15 should take all the IPR 1600 can deliver (dual 2 or bridged 4) without any issues. Using the small-signal parameters, a kilowatt takes things to ~xmax, the amp's rated maximum power gets close to the mechanical limits.

Cool! I've already got the wood in hand, I've been debating this vs a ghorn with dual Type Rs, but the ghorn will need a bigger amp, and I've really been wanting to run a TC driver.

We will see if Partsexpress actually gets the lms-r back in stock, or if it's just vaporware.
post #236 of 249
So fun!

The 1000 is driving the Lilwrecker at 8ohm bridged mono at 700w on tap and the 1500 is driving my RF-7iis.


Untitled by chilort, on Flickr
post #237 of 249
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Tim View Post

Acoustics aside, that sounds like a fire trap.

Tim
LOL City folks. Y'all need to come out over yonder to the country and see how we have parties in the barns. Don't recall a single barn burning down in all the parties I've attended. Bails of straw are cheap seating! Plus the youngins don't crack their heads open when they fall on them. (or the drunk people) And we'iz smart nuf not to smoke in the barn.
post #238 of 249
Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael Mitten View Post

LOL City folks. Y'all need to come out over yonder to the country and see how we have parties in the barns. Don't recall a single barn burning down in all the parties I've attended. Bails of straw are cheap seating! Plus the youngins don't crack their heads open when they fall on them. (or the drunk people) And we'iz smart nuf not to smoke in the barn.

You should look up the law of probability sometime. Then try and find some common sense.

Tim
post #239 of 249
Back to the point, the Lilwrecker sounds great. I cannot believe this speaker isn't getting more attention.

I got my miniDSP in line today and got a real basic bandpass filter installed. Now I need to learn how to use my mic and REW to really get things setup. With four total 10" woofers in the RF-7iis I didn't believe I was missing all that much on the bottom end but I really was.
post #240 of 249
Quote:
Originally Posted by chilort View Post

Back to the point, the Lilwrecker sounds great. I cannot believe this speaker isn't getting more attention.

I got my miniDSP in line today and got a real basic bandpass filter installed. Now I need to learn how to use my mic and REW to really get things setup. With four total 10" woofers in the RF-7iis I didn't believe I was missing all that much on the bottom end but I really was.

I can't wait to get mine going!
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: DIY Speakers and Subs
AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › DIY Speakers and Subs › Lilmike's LilWrecker