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Lilmike's LilWrecker - Page 4

post #91 of 525
Ya, strip the rubber off and use some gasket and you are good to go!
post #92 of 525
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by chrapladm View Post

AV15H-D4
FS: 22Hz
Qms: 4.86
Vas: 197L
Cms: .22mm/N
Mms: 235g
Rms: 6.7
Xmax: 23mm
Xmech: 32mm
Sd: 794sqcm
Vd p-p: 3.67L
Qes: .29
Re: 5.4ohm
Le: .56mH
Z: 8ohm
Bl: 24.75Tm
Pe: 1000W
Qts: .27
1WSPL: 90.7db
2.83V: 92.29dB

Here ya go

Those match the specs I have. This driver also works fine.
post #93 of 525
Quote:
Originally Posted by lilmike View Post

Those match the specs I have. This driver also works fine.

Mike, perhaps you could update the first post with all the suitable drivers and possibly a blurb about any strengths and weaknesses,etc. smile.gif

Just a thought...it might be helpful to those following in your footsteps and utilizing your amazing designs!
Edited by jpmst3 - 2/16/13 at 11:29am
post #94 of 525
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jpmst3 View Post

Mike, perhaps you could update the first post with all the suitable drivers and possibly a blurb about any strengths and weaknesses,etc. smile.gif

Just a thought...it might be helpful to those following in your footsteps and utilizing your amazing designs!

Done.

Now - get the rest of these builds done and tested so I can add more proven drivers to that list.
post #95 of 525
Quote:
Originally Posted by lilmike View Post

Done.

Now - get the rest of these builds done and tested so I can add more proven drivers to that list.

You rock!
I am sure that will be much appreciated going forward.
post #96 of 525
Quote:
Originally Posted by lilmike View Post

Those match the specs I have. This driver also works fine.

Thanks guys. I actually have the AV15 MkII's, but if I remember right the specs are very similar to the AV15H.

Jim
post #97 of 525

Lilmike,

 

I currently am running a single F20 in my room and have been thinking of building a second sub for my room. Would the Lilwrecker play nice with the F20 or should I just build a second F20? The extra 5 hz sounds good!

post #98 of 525
Is there a difference in sound between 2 4 and 8 ohm wiring ? Or are you simply pulling more current in 2 ohm versus 8 ?

For some reason I have the notion that setting it up as an 8ohm average load would allow more accurate bass at the expense of max SPL and headroom.

Anyone care to chime in?
post #99 of 525
Quote:
Originally Posted by cheezit73 View Post

Lilmike,

I currently am running a single F20 in my room and have been thinking of building a second sub for my room. Would the Lilwrecker play nice with the F20 or should I just build a second F20? The extra 5 hz sounds good!

Are you building the second for more output, or to flatten your response?

If for more output, build a lilwrecker, it will have as much output as 2 f20s and not cost much more than adding a second f20.
post #100 of 525
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stumbo View Post


Are you building the second for more output, or to flatten your response?

If for more output, build a lilwrecker, it will have as much output as 2 f20s and not cost much more than adding a second f20.

Both! As part of my room redo I am building a false wall and the F20 will fit behind it and so I can put another F20 or a Lilwrecker where my current F20 is. It sounds like price wise they are going to be pretty close and might as well get the extra extension. I just got a Denon 4311 so i figured I should take advantage of its dual sub outputs. In my current setup the F20 only fits in place in the back corner of the room and i am quite sure its not optimal so I am hoping that having a second sub in the front of the room behind the screen somewhere will help the response. I just wasn't sure if having a sub that goes to 15hz and one that goes to 20 hz is ok or if that will cause issues.

post #101 of 525
Lilmike, I have a question about the lay out. The top of flare 3 is marked as 9" from the inside of the front panel. All other measurements are from the outside of the side panel.

I just want to double check that it is 9" from the inside of the front panel.
post #102 of 525
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bdubs1 View Post

Lilmike, I have a question about the lay out. The top of flare 3 is marked as 9" from the inside of the front panel. All other measurements are from the outside of the side panel.

I just want to double check that it is 9" from the inside of the front panel.

Flare 3 is parallel to the front panel, 9 3/4" from the outside, ~9" from the inside.

Sorry for the confusion.
post #103 of 525
If anyone is up or making a new wrecker, I'll donate an SWS-15D4 to the cause. They'll be my own drivers that I've beat the snot out of in my Jeep, but that just means they're nice and broken in smile.gif

I'm moving on to "new" things wink.gif

That offer stands for two people .. one each.
Jim
post #104 of 525
I'm going to be making a wrecker pair, would be awesome to cut costs with drivers.
post #105 of 525
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Walter View Post

If anyone is up or making a new wrecker, I'll donate an SWS-15D4 to the cause. They'll be my own drivers that I've beat the snot out of in my Jeep, but that just means they're nice and broken in smile.gif

I'm moving on to "new" things wink.gif

That offer stands for two people .. one each.
Jim

That's a nice offer. I have 2 wreckers that will be finished this week and no drivers yet. I'd take you up on your offer but I have never measured a sub. I wouldn't be able to give any valuable feed back to the forum.
post #106 of 525
I have been debating an F20 build but now considering a lilwrecker. Are the instructions available in different format? I do not have winzip on my computer. Thanks.
post #107 of 525
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIG INJUN CHIEF View Post

I have been debating an F20 build but now considering a lilwrecker. Are the instructions available in different format? I do not have winzip on my computer. Thanks.

Download 7zip, it's free software....
Plus, if you are using windows 7, it's built in. Just right click and extract....
post #108 of 525
Thank you!
post #109 of 525
Anyone have all the specs on an Alpine SWR1542D?

It has 20.5 xmax and handles a bit more power than the SWS 15, and still quite a bit cheaper than the CVX15.
post #110 of 525
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bdubs1 View Post

Anyone have all the specs on an Alpine SWR1542D?

It has 20.5 xmax and handles a bit more power than the SWS 15, and still quite a bit cheaper than the CVX15.

I'll see what I can do. I have last year's, but not the current model.
post #111 of 525
Thread Starter 
So, I was setting up the proper amp with the MicroWrecker today, and decided to see what it could do.

Stupid subwoofer tricks: Episode 1

That's the MicroWrecker, running a bridged iNuke 3000DSP for power, 20 Hz highpass in place.

Sorry bout the audio quality, my Lumia doesn't much care for over 120 dB....
post #112 of 525
Nice!
Nothing like subs moving air! cool.gif
post #113 of 525
Quote:
Originally Posted by lilmike View Post

So, I was setting up the proper amp with the MicroWrecker today, and decided to see what it could do.

Stupid subwoofer tricks: Episode 1

That's the MicroWrecker, running a bridged iNuke 3000DSP for power, 20 Hz highpass in place.

Sorry bout the audio quality, my Lumia doesn't much care for over 120 dB....

Crapper... The audio quality caused me issues mentally. The candle was neat.
post #114 of 525
That left window looks crazy. Warped blinds. lol

So you need a Hpass at 20hz with this Micro sub? And what driver were you using again in the Micro? CVX?

May try and build one of these now. 240 for the Type S and a few sheets of ply.
post #115 of 525
Thread Starter 
Yeah, they sorta melted a couple years back... Since the house is literally getting torn down inside of a couple months, I haven't bothered to fix them.

I run a 20 Hz highpass cause that is as low as I can go on the iNuke. I'm leaving a few dB on the table at the corner as a result.

Only limits I have with the system set up this way are thermal, and I have definitely warmed things up.
post #116 of 525
Quote:
Originally Posted by chrapladm View Post

That left window looks crazy. Warped blinds. lol

So you need a Hpass at 20hz with this Micro sub? And what driver were you using again in the Micro? CVX?

May try and build one of these now. 240 for the Type S and a few sheets of ply.

Not sure where you're getting your type S, but I've found them much cheaper. Search around.
post #117 of 525
I live in OZ. So 129 plus 80-100 for shipping on one of them is cheaper than buying from here. Just estimates so that's why I said 240.I like the fact that I can power these with a small amp and get most out of it with only 2000 watts.(four micros)

Mike what is the suggested hpass on the micros?
post #118 of 525
Thread Starter 
17 to 18 Hz would be about perfect. Excursion blows up below there.

20's not that bad, but I am leaving a few dBs on the table at the corner.

Honestly - when the test-mule is level balanced with my mains - I am leaving more than 10 dBs on the table....

I need to get started on some better mains....time to quit messing around with subs.
post #119 of 525
Quote:
Originally Posted by stormwind13 View Post

I'm about a week from building a pair of these myself, just waiting to see if the stereo integrity 15 works as a replacement for the cvx. I'll put up a build thread when I start.

Any updates on your build?
post #120 of 525
Quote:
Originally Posted by lilmike View Post

I'll see what I can do. I have last year's, but not the current model.

Have you had time to check into the SWR1542D? I'll pul the trigger on these or the SWS as soon as you give feed back.
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