Originally Posted by Espo77
Originally Posted by CleatusCat
I've just set up my home theater room with speakers, subs and built in amps. It sounds great, I'm planning on adding another large amp soon but already I am noticing the lights dimming to the beat. Is there a way to correct that with a power conditioner or some sort of large farad cap like you'd use in a car?
If you check the power consumption specs on your equipment (in watts..like a hair dryer), and add it all up, you'll see that you are perhaps overloading the circuits. Too many receptacles wired to a breaker. I had an electrician wire dedicated circuits to an area in my living room for my gear. It was very inexpensive. Your powered towers most likely consume about 700 watts each.
I don't think that the power amps in the AVR can come anywhere close to that.
While some subwoofers make some pretty expansive claims about power, I suspect that the vendors are taking advantage of the fact that FTC rules may not apply.
On balance, the now-discontinued BP3000 may be a good example of how "They don't make them like they did". Hiding an 18" sub with decent bass extension into the relatively tiny narrow box suggests a very inefficient system, so the power levels may escallate. If we take the specs at face value these may be the explanation for the observed problem. The OP should unplug them and see if the lights still flash. It is quite possible that putting them on their own circuit(s) may be the fix.
A large power amp could consume upwards of 1400 watts of juice. Add subs and have everything cranked up, and you get what you are describing. Do you have a modern circuit breaker box. Have they been tripping?
Most equipment's power consumption specs are posted on the rear plate.
The nameplate numbers on AVRs and the like generally fall well short of the maximum that can be observed under worst case circumstances. The Underwriter's labs have a slightly complex way to come up with what goes on the nameplate. At least in theory an AVR can for a short time (long enough to dim the lights) exceed the nameplate numbers by quite a bit.
A more relevant way to monitor power use is to obtain something like a Kill-A-Watt and see what it says. Because of the digital display it still won't show short term peaks, but it will probably give numbers that are closer to reality.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16882715001Edited by arnyk - 1/15/13 at 5:42am