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Wanted: Entry level Sub better than the PSW110...good condition

post #1 of 8
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$100 (USD)
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Entry level Sub better than the PSW110...good condition

Will Ship To: Anywhere

I am looking for a entry level sub for my new home theater. If no response I will be forced to give my money to Amazon for the PSW110. Any kind-hearted souls with an unused sub lying around better than the POLK and i'd pony up $100 for it.

I was 'forced' to get in on the amazon onkyo 809 deal a few weeks ago and that has totally skewed my budget. A fellow AVSer was kind enough to part with his Jamo 426 5.0 system at a great price but now the bug has bitten and I just won't feel complete without the 0.1 sub.

I live in the San Francisco Bay Area (Pacifica) and would travel as far as Sacramento for something worthwhile.
post #2 of 8
If you can wait, I'd hold off and frequently search some online retail sites. Big-Box stores such as BestBuy.com or FutureShop.ca consistently have one or two amazing deals each week. Below is an example, if you have a friend who lives in Canada, .


This 10" sub is on sale for $249 down from $479 ($230 savings)! I realize that it's about $100 more than Amazon's PSW110, but the Polk isn't even in the same class. Energy is a Canadian company who have been manufacturing speakers since 1973. I often buy deals like this for my clients and store them away until somebody needs one.

This is just one example and I'm not pushing this particular product, but I'd really encourage you to wait and do some online shopping. I think you will really notice the quality difference if you purchase a better component than the PSW110 and considering the lifespan of a Sub (5-10+ years), the extra $50-$100 will be worth it. Think of it in terms of dollar cost averaging...if you pay an extra $50 and own it for ten years, you paid $5 per year.


post #3 of 8

Taking your advice, Vann's has a Klipsch SW-308 for $309.88. It's exclusively for a music system on my PC on which I do some editing. 12' x 14' room, no movie stuff, I love the size, like the specs, and have read good reviews. Do you consider this a very good deal?

post #4 of 8
Do you intend to feed your Sub from the speaker level outputs of you amplifier, or from an RCA "Sub Out" / "Pre-Amp Out" of your amp? I'm asking because the SW-308 only has RCA line inputs and does not have speaker level inputs.


post #5 of 8
My old JVC Receiver has an RCA sub out connection, so it looks like I'm good. Thanks!
post #6 of 8
Originally Posted by reframmellator View Post

My old JVC Receiver has an RCA sub out connection, so it looks like I'm good. Thanks!

Is that loss of flexibility/connectivity significant?
post #7 of 8
There are a number of factors to consider when purchasing a sub. Below are just a couple.

1) Speaker level outputs are internally amplified at your amplifier’s stage, therefore the signal being fed to your sub is run at a higher voltage. This equates to a greater signal strength, which theoretically provides a cleaner signal over a long run of cable. Generally they are less likely to pick up ground hum (60 Hz / cycles per second), electrical interference, noise, etcetera. However, the quality limitations of your amp are being sent downstream to you sub. Dynamic headroom, total harmonic distortion (THD) and signal-to-noise ratio (S/N level, expressed in dB) can become an issue.

The basic concept behind an amp’s RCA output, is that the source input signal (CD player, tape deck…) is routed directly to a RCA consumer line level connector (usually -10dBV / 0.316 volts), thus bypassing the internal amplification stage. Besides the fact that the quality of the amp can basically be removed from the equation, the biggest advantage to this from of setup is that the speaker level outputs will usually begin clipping considerably sooner than the RCA’s.

Having both types of inputs on your sub will allow you to choose the best option for your particular application.

2) Many subs come with speaker level outputs as well as speaker level and RCA inputs. The capability of your L/R or L/C/R speakers to produce low frequencies / bottom end can be addressed. You can feed the sub's speaker inputs from your amp's speaker outputs and then feed your L/R speakers from the sub's speaker outputs. The internal crossover in the sub rolls off the frequencies below the number you choose on the Hz selector / potentiometer (pot). For example, if you set you sub's pot to 60 Hz, the signal being sent to your L/R speakers does not include any frequencies below 60 Hz (there is a roll off curve, so a small amount does get through, but generally the curve is pretty steep i.e. 18 decibels per octave). This is particularly effective if you are using small L/R bookshelf speakers. They are not being asked to reproduce low frequencies they are physically incapable of.

I realize that ultimately you just want to buy a sub, so I apologize if any of this has caused confusion, but I thought you might find some of the details useful.


post #8 of 8
These details are very useful. Thanks!
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