First DIY - Would this sub cabinet work OK? - Page 2

I don't have links for you, but the feedback on the FMOD I've seen in the past is not so great, and Bill knows what he's talking about. On the flip-side a MiniDSP would do so much more for you, the value it will add to your sub does far beyond the price difference. Without DSP, your sub is dependent on your room's response - you are counting on 'getting lucky'. With DSP, you can optimize placement and then EQ to flat - much better, much more flexible.

I did not know the Epik products had 20hz HPF's.

Before you commit to the minidsp, I would recommend building the DIY subs, measuring them before Audyssey and the other subs in the mix. Then run Audyssey with the DIY subs only and measure. Then add in the other subs, re-run Audyssey, and then measure. Should give you a good idea of how things are playing... If you are having a hard time getting everything to play nice then the minidsp will give you more flexibility. I suspect that the minidsp option will be the best to mix and match these subs, but you can always try first and see what happens and how you like it.

I would wait personally. Those PE boxes don't look near as nice as I bet Erich's will be.

id wait, its what im planning

If Erich's flat packs already have the double baffle pre-cut for your driver, then I would wait. I think Erich's flat packs are a cut above the PE one's and are probably worth waiting a week and the money.

X4. Double baffle, far better bracing, and proper sizing for the driver.

Pipe style clamps are better.

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-half-inch-pipe-clamp-3813.html

You can get HD to cut and thread a 10' pipe into 3 x 3'4" pieces for 1/2" or 2 x 5' for 3/4 for free and the 10' lengths of pipe are much cheaper.

I use the Bessey 1/2" and 3/4" pipe clamps but that's more of an investment. I have a couple of old HF or Northern bar clamps like you listed and they work but cannot clamp with much pressure as they tend to bend.

Minimum # I would say 6 and you will have to assemble in steps. You need enough clamps to build at least build 1 tri-corner at the beginning with 2 clamps per panel.

Of course some people have assembled the flat packs with glue and masking tape.

Get some of the ribbed brad nails and a counter sink deal 'cause the boards will slide all over the place without a nail or 3.

I used 6 bar clamps with my build and that was the minimum I would recommend. I would have liked to have had a couple more and at Menards they have 24" bar clamps for $5.99 apiece if you have one near you.

I used PL Premium since it expands nicely (buy some cheap work gloves) and once I assembled the panels together, I would hit them with my finish nailer (just a couple of 2" finish nails in each panel) and then clamped it. It really went smoothly and then I just used drywall spackle to cover the nail holes. You have plenty of work time with PL Premium so take your time and get everything lined up nicely.

The ratchet clamp looks cool and may work really well with the flat pack. I have no experience with it though.

The besy bar clamps are going to bend just like the HF bar clamps if you are clamping a large piece. Pipe is more rigid. You could get the HF bar clamps for <24" runs and a pair of pipe clamps for up to 36" clamping.

Also had another thought: since the flat packs are dado cut you don't need the brad nails.

i used ratchet clamps and some quick release clamps when i put together my Overnight Sensations Flatpack. worked fine, with the dadoes you dont need to go insane with clamp tightness - used Tightbond no issues. Should be the same for the sub boxes. I plan on doing the same thing, and ill prob go over the inner seams with PL just to make sure but its prob not needed

I'd agree here. I think Erich mentioned some have even used just tape to hold the panels together while drying with his kits. With the rabbet grooves for the panels and dado for the bracing, it will pretty much hold itself in place so you won't need to get too hardcore with the clamping.

These 31 band eq's have a adjustable low cut filter down to 10hz. It was on sale, but oos now. http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/321788-REG/Behringer_FBQ3102_FBQ3102_Graphic_Equalizer.html

thank you very much for the pointer.

i always use a scap piece of wood between the clamp and what im clamping as the plastic/rubber part really does not help in not causeing indents and such

+1, especially with MDF. But a good practice in general to follow.

Speaking of 'incidents' - I dropped one of the top MDF panels from one of my new speakers last night on the ground. Dinged up corners = failure. Easier to recut and make a new one than repair that panel, heh. I guess that will become part of my scrap collection. Doh.

also sure I’m not the only person who has glued the scrap wood used when clamping to the box because of glue excess seepage

I have a couple of these and they work pretty good once you get them positioned. The corners do come off the straps fairly easily though so its better to position them with two people. Definitely put something in between your box and the clamps though so they don't leave marks.

Scott

No your not. Use Suran wrap on anything you don't want glue sticking to.

Lulz. I've liquid nailed more than one thing to a project from glue overage.