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Release date of the BenQ w1080st & First Reviews - Page 16

post #451 of 620
Regarding the WhatHifi reviews here & here...W1080ST having better black level? confused.gif
post #452 of 620

I purchased a w1080st a few weeks ago and finally have it set up.  My only issue is the hotspot, same exact thing as vidkid and I'm pretty sure it's my screen because when I project on the wall, at any distance the brightness is totally uniform, however on my screen big hotspot.

 

My Setup

 

Ceiling Mounted - 6' feet from screen (96" wide image)

My Screen is a Elite EzFrame Cinegrey 5D, high contrast with a 1.5 gain.

 

Any ideas on what i can do to fix this?  I assume I got the wrong screen material and need something that isn't retro-reflective?  

 

Here's some pics - center left.

 

 

I suppose move the projector back, but then it won't fit the screen

 

(ignore the TV in front of the screen)


Edited by LordJoseph - 11/22/13 at 8:24am
post #453 of 620

NEVERMIND....I just spoke to tech support at Elite screens and he explained the problem.

 

It's not the screen, it's the setup of the projector.  To anyone with a hotspot, your projected image HAS to be perfectly aligned with the screen or you will get a hotspot or uneven image.

 

With the w1080st, the middle of the LENS needs to be about 1" above the top of the screen to get a perfect throw.  Being a short throw projector there is less room for error.

 

The mount you get is of super importance, it should have a vertical adjustment so you can pinpoint the exact spot, and of course the screen and projector must be level

 

Hope this helps people with hotspots.

 

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by LordJoseph View Post
 

I purchased a w1080st a few weeks ago and finally have it set up.  My only issue is the hotspot, same exact thing as vidkid and I'm pretty sure it's my screen because when I project on the wall, at any distance the brightness is totally uniform, however on my screen big hotspot.

 

My Setup

 

Ceiling Mounted - 6' feet from screen (96" wide image)

My Screen is a Elite EzFrame Cinegrey 5D, high contrast with a 1.5 gain.

 

Any ideas on what i can do to fix this?  I assume I got the wrong screen material and need something that isn't retro-reflective?  

 

Here's some pics - center left.

 

 

I suppose move the projector back, but then it won't fit the screen

 

(ignore the TV in front of the screen)

post #454 of 620

Doesn't the hotspot also relate to the gain of the screen? LordJoseph you has a 1.5 gain screen. Would a 1.1 gain screen help in this regard?

post #455 of 620
Quote:
Originally Posted by eagleyes View Post

Doesn't the hotspot also relate to the gain of the screen? LordJoseph you has a 1.5 gain screen. Would a 1.1 gain screen help in this regard?
my common sense tell me that short throw projector is not suitable for retro reflective or high gain screens.
post #456 of 620

Does anything think that both hotspotting and uneven focus are due to misalignment of projector and screen? It seems probable to me. I used a Benq short throw from work and had both issues. I'm pretty sure the wonky standup screen was the culprit. I don't have the 1080st but am considering it.

post #457 of 620
Quote:
Originally Posted by eagleyes View Post
 

Doesn't the hotspot also relate to the gain of the screen? LordJoseph you has a 1.5 gain screen. Would a 1.1 gain screen help in this regard?

 

Yes definitely, higher gain screens reflect the light back because less light is scattered on the screen, that's the purpose of them to create a brighter image.  If I had a matte type screen it probably wouldn't be a problem or barely noticeable.  However with a screen like this the lens has to be exactly plumb with the screen so that the light is hitting it as evenly as possible, in the right spot for my viewing area, if it's not aligned properly the light is focused on a spot and it magnifies a hotspot, which is made worse by retro-reflective material.
According to the throw calculator the middle of the lens needs to be 1inch above the top of the screen, and centered.  Right now it's about 1.3 of an inch off and I don't think it's centered properly.  I'm getting a new mount with a slide channel so I can get the perfect height on the projector.  My mount is fixed to the baseboards in the ceiling and drops just below the ceiling but doesn't have a very good vertical adjustment.  So I should be able to mitigate the hot spot by getting the projector aligned with the screen properly.  With the lights off I can probably reduce the brightness a little to help.
Even with the hotspot it's a great picture, you only notice it on static images, movies, TV, video games it's not noticeable at all.  I can live with it if I can alleviate it a little. I am very happy with the w1080st, if you get it just remember you really have to get the measurements right, short throw projectors have less room for error in general.  I've been playing COD Ghosts on the Xbox one all night, absolutely awesome.  Netflix with 1080p is awesome.  
 
I got the Cinegray 5d because it's both high gain, and a grey screen providing better contrast, it looks great with the lights on and off and I haven't even calibrated it yet.
post #458 of 620

Good post LordJoseph thank you. I'd love to see a few pictures of the projector in action once you get it calibrated to see what black levels you are getting on your screen.

post #459 of 620
Quote:
Originally Posted by eagleyes View Post
 

Good post LordJoseph thank you. I'd love to see a few pictures of the projector in action once you get it calibrated to see what black levels you are getting on your screen.

 

Yes I will post an update with pics after I install the new mount, align it and calibrate it.

post #460 of 620
Quote:
Originally Posted by LordJoseph View Post

Yes I will post an update with pics after I install the new mount, align it and calibrate it.

Anything new? Thinking about getting this unit and need suggestions for a mount.
post #461 of 620
Quote:
Originally Posted by jtl46 View Post


Anything new? Thinking about getting this unit and need suggestions for a mount.

 

I actually just finally got the new mount installed this weekend.  It took so long because of ordering issues.  First, it's awesome mount, you can adjust this thing just anyway you can think of, but the vertical slide channel is the best part because you can adjust vertically to just about any position between about 8-14" which helped me immensely in getting the center of lens aligned with the top of the screen.  

 

I now have the projector mounted vertically plumb with the screen (within a few cm :) and perfectly centered, it's made a big difference on the hot spot.  It's not really a hot spot anymore, it's more a bright spot and it's position in relation on the screen depends on where you're sitting which is the way it's supposed to be.  Now it's just a small bright area that you only notice in very limited static one color images, like when the Xbox is booting up and the screen is all green, etc.  Beyond that brightness looks completely uniform on just about any other image.  

 

The mount is a little shaky when you touch it, I'm going to see if I can tighten it up, but not a concern for me.

 

It's the Peerless ceiling/wall mount, model number PRG-EXA.  But here's the thing, I ordered mine from Amazon initially and it came missing parts.  I then returned it and re-ordered it from B&H and the exact same thing....came missing the same parts.  Both time Amazon and B&H had simply took the manufacturer's box and put it in another box and shipped it, so I don't think it was their fault.  I think the manufacturer is boxing it without vital parts specifically certain screws and most importantly the security wrenches.  I called the manufacturer directly (Peerless) and they shipped the missing parts via Fedex (no charge0, and they arrived the next day.  Excellent support on their end. You may want to try and order this directly from the manufacturer if you can instead of reseller.

 

Now I just have to take the time to calibrate it, I have the Spears and Munsil blu-ray for this.  I will post pics later.

 

If you get this projector, don't do install it bass-ackwards like I did.  Mount the projector first, get the image right using the built in grid in the menu, mark the wall and THEN put up the screen.  

post #462 of 620
LJ, Thanks for the update. I will probably order this unit today or tomorrow, but I still need a screen. For my seating at 12' I think 100" will suffice. I need an electric retractable because it will come down in front of my fireplace mantle sans the fire of course. I don't want to spend a $1000+ for a screen. My plan is to keep my plazma installed behind the screen for every day use. If you or anyone else has a screen recommendation please let me know.
post #463 of 620
Quote:
Originally Posted by jtl46 View Post

LJ, Thanks for the update. I will probably order this unit today or tomorrow, but I still need a screen. For my seating at 12' I think 100" will suffice. I need an electric retractable because it will come down in front of my fireplace mantle sans the fire of course. I don't want to spend a $1000+ for a screen. My plan is to keep my plazma installed behind the screen for every day use. If you or anyone else has a screen recommendation please let me know.

 

I really like Elite screens, their support has been awesome, I called them, got through to "tech support"  in like 30 seconds and had a professional answering questions.  They seem to have a good line of Electric and Manual screens that are pretty affordable.  You just have to figure out the screen material.

 

The w1080st has a pretty strong lamp 2000 lumens, in addition it's a short throw so the image is closer and thus even brighter, so unless you're putting it in a room with a ton of windows and ambient light, go with no or little gain imo, Cinewhite or Mattewhite or something, especially if you have a wide viewing area.  I assume you're talking width, I don't think you'll find 100" -  it'll be 96" (8 feet) or 108" or something.  Anyways check out elitescreenshop.com - they have a good selection and when you find the right one, shop it around to get the best deal because I have found vastly different pricing at different stores for this type of equipment.  

post #464 of 620
Quote:
Originally Posted by LordJoseph View Post

I really like Elite screens, their support has been awesome, I called them, got through to "tech support"  in like 30 seconds and had a professional answering questions.  They seem to have a good line of Electric and Manual screens that are pretty affordable.  You just have to figure out the screen material.

The w1080st has a pretty strong lamp 2000 lumens, in addition it's a short throw so the image is closer and thus even brighter, so unless you're putting it in a room with a ton of windows and ambient light, go with no or little gain imo, Cinewhite or Mattewhite or something, especially if you have a wide viewing area.  I assume you're talking width, I don't think you'll find 100" -  it'll be 96" (8 feet) or 108" or something.  Anyways check out elitescreenshop.com - they have a good selection and when you find the right one, shop it around to get the best deal because I have found vastly different pricing at different stores for this type of equipment.  

100" diagonal (87"x49"). I was looking at the VMAX 2, I think it was $319 on AMZ. Problem is I need to mount to the ceiling and the brackets they recommend are really ugly.
post #465 of 620
Quote:
Originally Posted by jtl46 View Post


100" diagonal (87"x49"). I was looking at the VMAX 2, I think it was $319 on AMZ. Problem is I need to mount to the ceiling and the brackets they recommend are really ugly.

 

Good choice, MatteWhite, 1.1 gain and black backing.  If this is the one you really want then DIY the bracket issue....what do they look like, pics?

 

EliteScreenShop, B&H and The Projector store all have pretty the same price.  I would order from B&H if you're on on or near the east coast, they are a solid company with good support and ship out of New York.  

 

But if the brackets are ugly I bet if you went to a hardware store you could come up with a way to encase them with something and make it look good.  Maybe a wood header board to cover the brackets all the way across and paint?  

post #466 of 620
Quote:
Originally Posted by LordJoseph View Post
 

 

Good choice, MatteWhite, 1.1 gain and black backing.  If this is the one you really want then DIY the bracket issue....what do they look like, pics?

 

EliteScreenShop, B&H and The Projector store all have pretty the same price.  I would order from B&H if you're on on or near the east coast, they are a solid company with good support and ship out of New York (ground would be faster if you're on that side of the country).  

 

But if the brackets are ugly I bet if you went to a hardware store you could come up with a way to encase them with something and make it look good.  Maybe a wood header board to cover the brackets all the way across and paint?  

post #467 of 620
I can probably figure out a diy fix for it. Here is a link to the brackets they recommend.

http://shop.elitescreens.com/lbracketforvmaxandmanualscreensetof2.aspx
post #468 of 620

Ahhh right, that does look janky.   Yeah I don't think there's much you can do about that, even with a different screen.  I would install it, see how it looks in your room, then go from there.  Once you see it in place I'm betting you'll come up with a way to make it look better.

post #469 of 620

Hi folks,


I currently have a large LCD in my large living room and have been researching projector options for a future upgrade.

 

I have a question.  BenQ's projection calculator says I can mount this on the ceiling 6 feet away from the wall and get a 120" screen.  This projector has digital keystoning, but not lens shift.

 

If I mount this on the ceiling, will it be necessary to use digital keystone to get a flat rectangular image on the wall?  I can't find a clear explanation of why or why not.  If I use the projection calculator to change the "ceiling to screen top" and "floor to screen bottom" measurements, it shows the projector physically moving higher or lower (closer or farther away from the ceiling).

 

If this arrangement does require the use of digital keystone, how much does image quality suffer?

 

 

post #470 of 620

You really want to avoid having to use the keystone feature on this projector it will make the picture suck. And you're correct there is no vertical lens shift, So to avoid that you have to get the vertical alignment of the projector near perfect with a good mount.  Short throw projectors have less room for error than regular projectors so double and triple check your measurements. 

 

That's why I purchased the Peerless mount with the vertical slide channels.  It allows me to adjust the height of the projector to exactly where I need so the image is a perfect rectangular box and thus I don't need to use keystoning.  I learned this the hard way, the first mount I bought didn't have a wide range of vertical adjustments.  With this new mount I just slide the projector up and down until it had the perfect rectangle image, then locked it into place.   I'm not talking about pitch, roll and yaw, I'm talking about being able to move the projector up and down to get it perfectly aligned on your screen (with the zoom of course), although with this mount it has very nice adjustments for pitch, roll and yaw also.

 

So when you're using the throw calculator what's important is the height of your ceiling.  Then based on that and your throw distance (6 feet) it will tell you where your lens needs to be in relation to the top of the screen, and how far below the ceiling it needs to be mounted, it will probably say the lens needs to be 1 inch below the top of the screen (-1").  If you get a mount that doesn't let you adjust for small errors, you'll be screwed.  

 

So you have to consider several things:

 

1. How far away is your seating?

2. How high is your ceiling?  If you have a low ceiling it's more problematic.

3. What is your throw distance?  

 

Once you input that info into the throw calculator it will give you the measurements you need.  

 

I assume you're using the BenQ throw calculator?  If so it tells you the distance from the ceiling your projector needs to be based on what you input (in the lower right hand corner) and that measurement is from the middle of the lens.  Also the lens is not in the center of the unit, so you need to make sure the lens is positioned pointing directly at the middle of the screen, not the unit itself.  It will also tell you how big your screen will be, and how far from the ceiling and floor the top and bottom of your screen will be.  With that information you should be able to decide if it works and where to place the projector.  

 

You should let the placement of your seating and projector dictate how big your screen size will be.  In other words figure out ideally where you want the projector in relation to your seating, input the measurements into the calculator, measure the results and adjust accordingly.  Once you have it figure out, write it all down and you're ready.

 

If you're able to mount the projector according to the exact measurements the throw calculator gives you, you won't need to use the digital keystoning.

post #471 of 620

So I am inferring that the projector was actually designed to not have to be perfectly horizontally and vertically centered in front of the screen in order to get a flat, perfect rectangle, which is what I had first assumed must be the case.  It does have to be centered horizontally, but is designed to be at/near the bottom edge of the screen (when on a table) or top edge of the screen (when inverted and ceiling mounted) while still throwing a flat, perfect rectangle, without needing digital keystoning to do it.  Am I correct on this point?

 

Can you provide the model number of that Peerless mount so I can check it out?  If I had to mount, say, 12 to 18 inches below the ceiling, is it sturdy enough to stay completely rigid so that the image doesn't jiggle?  I'm concerned that if the ceiling fan is running, the turbulence in the air in the room might do just that.

 

Just out of curiosity, are you projecting onto a screen or a wall?  A wall sure would be easier, but I'm wondering how noticable minor imperfections in the uniformity of depth of the wall surface (e.g. where there's drywall mud over a seam) might be.

 

Since it sounds like you actually own and use the unit right now, how does the picture compare to a really good large LCD TV?

 

Thank you for your time.

post #472 of 620
Would this be a good projector for me? The theater room I'm working on would be about 13-14' seating distance, projecting on to a 9' high wall that is about 20' long. According to the Projector Central calculator I can get a 150" image at 8'3". I'm confused by what the -2 means, does this mean set the projector 2" below the top of the screen?
post #473 of 620
Quote:
Originally Posted by td37 View Post
 

So I am inferring that the projector was actually designed to not have to be perfectly horizontally and vertically centered in front of the screen in order to get a flat, perfect rectangle, which is what I had first assumed must be the case.  It does have to be centered horizontally, but is designed to be at/near the bottom edge of the screen (when on a table) or top edge of the screen (when inverted and ceiling mounted) while still throwing a flat, perfect rectangle, without needing digital keystoning to do it.  Am I correct on this point?

 

Can you provide the model number of that Peerless mount so I can check it out?  If I had to mount, say, 12 to 18 inches below the ceiling, is it sturdy enough to stay completely rigid so that the image doesn't jiggle?  I'm concerned that if the ceiling fan is running, the turbulence in the air in the room might do just that.

 

Just out of curiosity, are you projecting onto a screen or a wall?  A wall sure would be easier, but I'm wondering how noticable minor imperfections in the uniformity of depth of the wall surface (e.g. where there's drywall mud over a seam) might be.

 

Since it sounds like you actually own and use the unit right now, how does the picture compare to a really good large LCD TV?

 

Thank you for your time.

 

Correct.  In order to have a short throw the lens has to project at a very steep angle, so it can be closer to the screen.  It needs to be plumb with the screen but not pointing directly at the center of the screen, the lens is actually pointed at the top center or the bottom center of the screen based on how you position it (floor or ceiling), as the throw calculator shows. On the ceiling it's mounted upside down.  What's nice about a short throw is it's harder to shadow the image so the throw doesn't take up as much space, but with short throws there's less room for mounting/measurement errors.

 

Normal projectors generally point directly at the center of the screen, and then have a vertical lens shift to move the image up or down, usually by 1-2 full images giving you great latitude for mounting.  Short throws there is no or minimal lens shift so you have to be really exact with the measurements and mounting - this is why the vertical slide channel on my new mount was so helpful.

 

It's the Peerless PRG-EXA, read my posts above about ordering it, I had issues getting the right parts, but they were very responsive, good customer service.  It's pretty sturdy once you lock everything in, it doesn't seem like a ceiling fan going full speed would make it move to me.  The projector weighs about 6 lbs so gravity is keeping it in place, unless you think your ceiling fan could move something that heavy ;) 

 

I'm projecting onto an 8-foot screen.  It's an Elite Screeb Cinegray 5D....I highly recommend a screen.  You can get a good matte white screen for $150-$200 for a nice flat surface, also screens are more about just having a flat tensioned surface, they are designed with diffusive or reflective qualities based on your needs.  Screen material selection is a whole separate but important discussion.

 

If setup correctly with a good screen the picture is as good or better than any HDTV imo, it's as close to Imax theater quality as you can get at home and this is just a "entry-level" projector, the really good ones are way better but much more expensive.  One thing I was worried about was the black levels and contrast, and I have to say I am very happy with them.  Crappy 480i standard definition looks worse on a big projector....1080p blu-ray is stunning, but I pretty much refuse to watch anything in SD anyways.  They process motion better, I haven't noticed any motion blur, artifacts or blockiness with fast moving action sequences like you do with some (most?) HDTVs and they have almost no display lag.  

 

Finally calibration is much more important with a projector than a TV.  I haven't even calibrated mine yet....I'm using the default factory settings, and it looks great.  I can only assume it will look better once I finally go through the calibration process.

 

Setting up a projector theater is a lot of work but worth it.  It's more than just getting a good projector.  The screen, the lighting in your room, the seating arrangement and calibration are all just as important imo.  If you're going to do it, do it right otherwise you will not be happy.  That's the way I view it.  

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by RGoldberg View Post

Would this be a good projector for me? The theater room I'm working on would be about 13-14' seating distance, projecting on to a 9' high wall that is about 20' long. According to the Projector Central calculator I can get a 150" image at 8'3". I'm confused by what the -2 means, does this mean set the projector 2" below the top of the screen?

 

Yup, -2" means the center of the lens would need to be 2 inches below the top of the screen.  So the best way to set it up is mount the projector first, project the image to a perfect rectangle on the wall, mark the corners of the image on the wall with tape, then mount the screen based on that.  If you get a fixed frame screen you'll have a border, so you want to make sure you account for the frame when measuring and hanging the screen.

post #474 of 620

RE: ceiling fan -  now that I think about it a little more, if your ceiling fan is close to the projector and vibrates through the ceiling into the mount, that could be a problem.  It probably will be just fine but it's worth keeping in mind.

post #475 of 620
So in theory, I could mount the PJ with the center of the lens at 19" from ceiling at 8'3" and get a 150" diagonal image centered top to botttom on a 9 ft wall? calculator says 74"h x 131"w image at 8'3" so (108"-74")/2=17" top and bottom. Does this sound right?
post #476 of 620
Quote:
Originally Posted by RGoldberg View Post

So in theory, I could mount the PJ with the center of the lens at 19" from ceiling at 8'3" and get a 150" diagonal image centered top to botttom on a 9 ft wall? calculator says 74"h x 131"w image at 8'3" so (108"-74")/2=17" top and bottom. Does this sound right?

 

Well it's not a theory, if the calculator says it can be done, then your fine.  http://www.benq.com/microsite/projector/throwratiocalculator/

 

I input your specs myself and unless I'm getting the inputs wrong, if your ceiling is 9 feet high and you set it at an 8.3" throw distance you'll get a 165" diagonal image, or 12 foot wide screen.  In this configuration the screen is lower to the floor than the ceiling.  I would raise the screen, and thus raise the projector closer to the ceiling (if you can).  You generally want the screen closer to the ceiling than floor, you want the center of the screen to be about 30 degrees above sitting eye level.  If your ceiling isn't 9 feet high, then the calculations are wrong.

 

Your config is fine: The throw distance is fine, and the screen fits on your wall.  You have room to move the projector vertically to put the screen higher on the wall.  Assuming 9 feet is the height of your ceiling and assuming you have room on the wall it's projecting on to do this, but here's what I would do:

 

I would drop the throw distance to: 7.6 feet which gives you a 135" diagonal screen at a 16:9 ratio, which is a standard screen size.  This gives you room to adjust the position of the projector vertically and thus the placement of the screen, so you can find a spot that suits you (with a good mount of course).  The screen will be closer to the ceiling than the floor.  If you're thinking 135" isn't enough, trust me it is, that's still almost 11 feet across, that's huge.  I would consider even going a little smaller on the screen.  

 

Don't forget this projector has a 1.20 zoom, so if the throw distance is off a little no big deal, you just adjust the zoom, the important thing is getting the image as a perfect rectangle.

 

You should also use the calculator at projector central:  http://www.projectorcentral.com/BenQ-W1080ST-projection-calculator-pro.htm

 

It will tell you your brightness at that distance.  You need to account for ambient light.  In a dark room your ideal luminance is 12-24fl I believe, it also tells you where your ideal seating should be in relation to your setup.

 

Hope that helps.

post #477 of 620

Here's a pic of my setup, it's kind of crappy pic from my iPhone, and the COD Ghosts menu isn't a good example.  It looks blurry that's the iphone pic, not the image IRL.  I'll post more later of brighter movie shots.  That's an 8 foot wide screen.  You can see the projector at the top of the pic, the top of the screen is only 6 inches below the ceiling

 

post #478 of 620
LordJoseph,

Thanks for all your help! I think my plan is going to be to buy it from Amazon and then play around with positioning before I mount anything permanently. I will assemble a panel of "experts" to decide what image size they like the best and then go from there. The room hasn't been drywalled yet so I can put the mount and ceiling outlet anywhere I want. I think a ladder, an extension cord and a bedsheet should get me where I need to be.
post #479 of 620
LJ,
The Peerless mount that you are using and recommend unfortunately makes it difficult to do a flush ceiling installation unless I am missing something. I would like to keep the pj as close to the ceiling as possible for aesthetic purposes so I don't want any type of pole protruding from the ceiling. Having said that maybe to get even a little vertical adjustment is going to be difficult. What do you think?
post #480 of 620
Quote:
Originally Posted by jtl46 View Post

LJ,
The Peerless mount that you are using and recommend unfortunately makes it difficult to do a flush ceiling installation unless I am missing something. I would like to keep the pj as close to the ceiling as possible for aesthetic purposes so I don't want any type of pole protruding from the ceiling. Having said that maybe to get even a little vertical adjustment is going to be difficult. What do you think?

Try this one:
http://www.amazon.com/PCMD-Projector-Ceiling-Mount-W1070/dp/B00ABUFCCK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1386713832&sr=8-2&keywords=benq+w1070+mount

That is about as low as you can get I think as you need some clearance with the ceiling. I used a mount from this same company with my Acer to get as flush as possible and it worked great.
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