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Full DIY HT Replacement - SEOS Tempests + SEOS Fusion 10s + Dayton 18s - Page 4

post #91 of 233
2/10/13 at 1:54pm
I much prefer graphs with less smoothing smile.gif

I wonder where the combing from 700hz to 3000hz is coming from. I'm gonna guess those angled ceilings. The tempest measurements show more of the floor interaction and the fusion max show more of the ceiling.
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post #92 of 233
2/10/13 at 1:58pm
Thread Starter 
Will be interesting final placement will be about 1/2 way between the 2 as they sit now
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post #93 of 233
2/10/13 at 4:43pm
Thread Starter 
Cpl up close pics of the fusions



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post #94 of 233
2/10/13 at 5:02pm
Great workmanship on these, they really all look great!
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post #95 of 233
2/10/13 at 5:30pm
Yes an awesome job indeed!
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post #96 of 233
2/10/13 at 5:44pm
Thread Starter 
thanks guys. I go it more on the way as well

lolololololol



hooked up the ole trusty bic f12. crossed the fusions over at 80. just rockin
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post #97 of 233
2/11/13 at 8:43am
Thread Starter 
these speakers are going to end up costing me a lot more time/money as im gonna have to replace a lot of my music with better copies.A lot of it is ripped as FLAC but some is not. Even with the FLAC files im finding that the speakers reveal issues with recordings. I keep thinking they are making some odd sound, but no its just their clairity revealing everything in the recording. been checking with a set of IEMs and yep its always in the track.
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post #98 of 233
2/11/13 at 12:06pm
Not so good then eh wink.gif Sorry they're so clear and clean and detailed that they sound bad. biggrin.gif
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post #99 of 233
2/11/13 at 12:09pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sibuna View Post

these speakers are going to end up costing me a lot more time/money as im gonna have to replace a lot of my music with better copies.A lot of it is ripped as FLAC but some is not. Even with the FLAC files im finding that the speakers reveal issues with recordings. I keep thinking they are making some odd sound, but no its just their clairity revealing everything in the recording. been checking with a set of IEMs and yep its always in the track.

Ha, that's what sucks about being a metal head! smile.gif I do find myself listening to non-metal sometimes (I never used to do that) just for the amazing recordings. The best of both worlds are metal albums that are recorded well.
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post #100 of 233
2/11/13 at 5:28pm
Thread Starter 
yra first world problems

some of it isn't bad recordings its just me hearing stuff i never heard before and going "WTF was that" and some of it is getting used to the midrange out of them.
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post #101 of 233
2/11/13 at 5:58pm
Man, whoever designed those enclosures did a great job! And those slot ports......awesome! biggrin.gifbiggrin.gif



Sadly, I haven't had a chance to even build one of the Fusion 10's yet! When I do, I'll probably try out the Duratex. Can that stuff be thinned out to lower the amount or texture a notch or two?
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post #102 of 233
2/11/13 at 6:41pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Erich H View Post

Man, whoever designed those enclosures did a great job! And those slot ports......awesome! biggrin.gifbiggrin.gif



Sadly, I haven't had a chance to even build one of the Fusion 10's yet! When I do, I'll probably try out the Duratex. Can that stuff be thinned out to lower the amount or texture a notch or two?

i was just putting duratex on my sub boxes today, and it can be thinned out with a little water. or you could use a smooth roller for little-to-no texture. my problem with doing that was that i always saw my roller lines, and that wasn't acceptable for me. so i applied fairly thick to get a beautiful line-free textured finish similar to the light spatter on their website. i'd say spraying it on would give the smoothest streak-free finish. i just don't have a sprayer or the skills to use one
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post #103 of 233
2/11/13 at 8:17pm
Thread Starter 
you can thin it

if you use a large 9" smooth foam roller and lightly sand between coats you can get it smooth
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post #104 of 233
2/12/13 at 4:37am
Quote:
Originally Posted by bmg963 View Post

i was just putting duratex on my sub boxes today, and it can be thinned out with a little water. or you could use a smooth roller for little-to-no texture. my problem with doing that was that i always saw my roller lines, and that wasn't acceptable for me. so i applied fairly thick to get a beautiful line-free textured finish similar to the light spatter on their website. i'd say spraying it on would give the smoothest streak-free finish. i just don't have a sprayer or the skills to use one

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sibuna View Post

you can thin it

if you use a large 9" smooth foam roller and lightly sand between coats you can get it smooth

Both of these suggestions are good ideas and work well. I started by applying smooth thinking that was the way I wanted to go but I suppose I got addicted to the textured look and feel. biggrin.gif

You're going to love this stuff. As I said to Adam earlier I find myself wanting to paint other things around the house with it. Tonight I'm painting a shelf I built for my gym with it, haha.
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post #105 of 233
2/19/13 at 7:04am
Thread Starter 
sub boxes shipped, should be at my house tomorrow. im out of town for work. will start them this weekend
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post #106 of 233
2/22/13 at 4:40pm
Thread Starter 
time for the BOOM




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post #107 of 233
2/23/13 at 8:01am
Thread Starter 
1 box down - juist need to do the outer baffle. gonna let these setup and then run a bead of PL around all the inner seams before i begin finishing them.




started the 2nd one
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post #108 of 233
2/23/13 at 8:31am
Looking great, Sibuna. What are you going to do for sub boxes, though? Looks like your cats have already laid claim to there new homes. wink.gif
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post #109 of 233
2/23/13 at 2:07pm
You're moving pretty fast on those things and they look to be going together really nice. It also looks like FedEx treated the boxes okay.

You should save those really nice styrofoam cubes because they make good platforms to assemble boxes on. I got lucky getting that stuff for pretty cheap from a company that went out of business last year. Super light, but really strong stuff. I think they could support the weight of a car.
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post #110 of 233
2/23/13 at 2:44pm
Thread Starter 
i generally end up reusing it for shipping xmass gifts smile.gif

i have en entire room in the basement full of paint cans that make great platforms

2nd one just got the inner baffle glued on . final side will go on tonight. then ill let them set up for a bit and hit them with PL before i attach the outer baffle. also the other order shipped. gonna be a busy week
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post #111 of 233
2/23/13 at 3:30pm
Nice progress, Adam!! Can't wait for you to fire them up soon. biggrin.gif

P.S. - One can never have too many Dayton 18s! biggrin.gif
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post #112 of 233
2/23/13 at 4:42pm
Thread Starter 
forgot how nasty PL is. attached the finial side panel with it because there was a slight gap between the ribs and that side that i couldn't clamp around
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post #113 of 233
2/23/13 at 9:40pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sibuna View Post

forgot how nasty PL is. attached the finial side panel with it because there was a slight gap between the ribs and that side that i couldn't clamp around

Yup, PL sucks to work with.

On a side note; I think your cat is addicted to sniffing glue. biggrin.gif
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post #114 of 233
2/24/13 at 3:34am
Great looking speakers, Sibuna. Very much appreciate the numerous detailed pics!
Edited by blah450 - 2/24/13 at 4:33am
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post #115 of 233
2/24/13 at 1:06pm
Thread Starter 
hit everything inside with PL today and both front baffles are on. Going to let everything setup fort a day or so before i start finishing.

I do have a question. for the Tempests and Fusions i just used wood screws secure the woofers. Doable with the subs or will i have to use hurricane/T-nuts/whatever
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post #116 of 233
2/24/13 at 3:12pm
I used #10 x 1 1/2 SPAX screws with a flat head on my Daytons. They worked really well and although I don't recommend it if you can avoid it, I even had to take the driver out and put it back in a couple times and they still bit down the same as they did the first time. The only problem is I couldn't find any that were black so I had to resort to spray painting. I think Gorilla found some square-drive ones that were black at some point for his speakers, maybe check that thread.
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post #117 of 233
2/24/13 at 4:13pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrSmithers View Post

I used #10 x 1 1/2 SPAX screws with a flat head on my Daytons. They worked really well and although I don't recommend it if you can avoid it, I even had to take the driver out and put it back in a couple times and they still bit down the same as they did the first time. The only problem is I couldn't find any that were black so I had to resort to spray painting. I think Gorilla found some square-drive ones that were black at some point for his speakers, maybe check that thread.

were you screwing into birch ply or MDF? thats my only real concern is that they don't rip out of the MDF as generally does not old screws as well
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post #118 of 233
2/24/13 at 4:19pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sibuna View Post

hit everything inside with PL today and both front baffles are on. Going to let everything setup fort a day or so before i start finishing.

I do have a question. for the Tempests and Fusions i just used wood screws secure the woofers. Doable with the subs or will i have to use hurricane/T-nuts/whatever

I've built many a sub boxes and course threaded dry wall screws worked as well as anything else (MDF builds). My latest build I switched to square drives just for the extra safety factor (not slipping and damaging cone). I'd recommend a quick pre drill and then go to town. I think the problem most people have is they like to over tighten things, and that's where you have issues. I put my drill on a setting of 3 (which barely tightens them down) and I haven't had a problem yet with leaking drivers or tear outs.
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post #119 of 233
2/24/13 at 4:20pm
Thread Starter 
crappy cellphone pics
Baffle going on


My helper


biggrin.gif



like a glove
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post #120 of 233
2/24/13 at 4:23pm
Those zip ties were ingenious. It's always the simplest things that are most effective. Wish I would have though of that during my test fitting lol.
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